★★★ Ozymandias (free version) 28

If you start at Big Grassy, pitches 4-9 make a great outing at 24 (and after the first 5m it's 22). You can abseil to Big Grassy direct with a single 150m rope (or via multiple abseils with 2 50m ropes if you know what you're doing).

Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.

1. 25m (23) Bouldery moves past 2 bolts, then L up slabby ramp to crack. Up to flake/ledge (DBB).

2. 52m (28) The amazing thin corner, which gets a bit funky in places. Climb straight past the aid belay at 30m and finish on a ledge off to the R just after 50m (DBB).

3. 30m (25) Up the thin corner (you might need to dig out dirt from some holds), then hand traverse L to ledge. Up crack to Big Grassy (FHs).

4. 35m (24) Thin gear and moves up the corner above Big Grassy (technically a couple grades easier on top rope, but the gear fills up the holds and running it out above a ledge fall is not much of an option). The pitch then gets a bit easier, up the grassy face crack slightly R of the corner, then over yellow rooflet and up THE corner a little way to an uncomfortable hanging belay (DFH). It's a major shame that these bolts weren't placed lower at a natural stance; this corner would be even more of a mega pitch otherwise.

5. 30m (22) Probably the best grade 22 pitch at Buffalo, despite the artificial hanging stance where it starts. The searing L-trending corner is quality all the way. Quite sustained. Just before the top of the corner follow the traverse line 5m L to a trad belay on the arete.

6. 35m (22) Interesting cracks through the bulges around to the L. Sustained, wide at times, and grungy; but good value. Triple FH belay.

7. 15m (19) Traverse L along vigorous crack to ledge.

8. 20m (14) A tricky start, then head up the labyrinth of chimneys.

9. 25m (10) Up the chimneys and big blocks to freedom, salvation and glory.

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.