★★★ Strangeness and Charm 22

Really good climbing, with atmosphere. All new bolts now.

Start: Start below a short wide crack at the left edge of a treed ledge. If you are having problems finding the start and are unfamiliar with the gorge, walk across to the other side of the creek and suss out the route from there, the footpads of the traverse on pitch 2 are fairly obvious.

1. 45m (18) Up the crack, step right (wires) and up to a ledge and tree. Move left 3m and climb up to a scoop (wires). From the scoop continue left and up to the small belay ledge (two FHs). This pitch is quite runout.

2. 20m (18) Traverse left with trepidation past two spaced FHs and a medium cam slot to an assortment of vintage chains (hanging belay).

3. 35m (22) Up, follow the groove past three FH (crux) before crossing to the left side out of the crack (feels desperate) then up to belay stance. A stout and sustained pitch requiring a good rack inc slings for thread.

4. 20m (22) Left up flakes and up to a FH, move rightwards over the bulge (crux) past carrot bolt and FH and then trend left up to the awesome bathtub cave belay (rap chain).

5. 30m (19) Up to a bolt before slabbing left and down to shallow dusty groove, up this to another bolt then trend left through the steep bulge on jugs. "No-one bothers with this pitch" - actually, quite a lot of people do it, it's not bad. Be aware that the abseil back to the 4th belay is a bit diagonal. There are now new chains a further 8m up and right at a stance giving a better rap line down.