★★★ Right in the Bunghole 23

A pleasant climb of sensible length, which features perfect belay stances and a spectacular second pitch. Start 5m right of the whitish R-facing corner of Green Peace. Take a single set of wires, a set of cams to #3 camalot, and maybe extra finger-hand cams. The crux pitch is fond of yellow aliens. Millions of threads, so sling up like there's no tomorrow. Two ropes needed to rap off.

1. 30m (19) Boulder onto the bobbly lump and up past a bolt to leftwards diagonal seam. At the overlap/break at about 15m, ignore your instincts and step rightwards to find a hidden gear slot. Easier climbing past a second bolt (wander around for gear) leads to the belay hole with a single tree poking out. Excellent threads can be found deep in the back of the bunghole.

2. 25m (23) One of the best pitches at Bungonia. Glorious steep jugs and good gear interrupted by a bolted bouldery crux. There's a gear slot between the bolts which is handy for dogging (twist a #6 wallnut or something similar in there). Very comfortable belay hole.

3. 30m (19) Left out of the hole and ramble up the easy slab (beware of loose crap off to the sides). Follow the threads up steepening wall to bolted bouldering. After the last bolt, climb up and right to find hidden gear in a big pocket, then step right to the bolted belay in a bunghole (shared with The Bachelor).

4. 45m (15) Shared with The Bachelor. Step left off the belay, then wander up the pleasant easy slab passing about three bolts and bunch of gear slots.

Three abseils to the ground (45m, 25m, 50m).