Aide

Spanish Galleon

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 2
  • Ascensions : 195

Il est interdit d'escalader dans cette zone.

10

Saison

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Résumé

Awesome wall climbing plus a few slab routes, faces more or less direct east, morning sun / afternoon shade. First bolt on all routes placed for stick clip.

Description

Four on the Floor(24), Kingdom of Fear (25) and Six on the Stick (26) are all well bolted classics of the sport face climb genre, while the easier lines are also worthwhile. Worth a look, no doubt about it!

Limit. de l'accès

RNA (Remote and Natural Area). To be reviewed.

Approche

From intersection of Red Rock Rd follow Yanganaginj Njawi/Camp of Emus Foot track for 1.1km to large pullout on the right side of road (way before Lost World carpark). You can just see the top of the wall looking like a pinnacle on left side of the hill above. Head straight up hill on vague track marked with cairns through light bush aiming for left side of the hill and buttresses. About halfway up the track contours leftwards up the hill to arrive at right side of the wall.

Éthique

Sport

Historique

Graphique de l'historique des voies

'Developed' 2015 / 16 with good fun climbing as the main objective

Tags

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie

Shares first four bolts of No Feet, No Head, No Hands, then steps out left, bouldery moves up slab to 'plates' then slabby moves on slopers to lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, steven wilson, Mike Rockell, Amanda Holloway & Sam Gribbles

Black slab on left of main face. Bridge up to slab, fun climbing staying just left of and on arete

Équip.: Steve Holloway

FA: Steve Holloway, Brett Williams, steven wilson & Wally Funk, 9 Juil 2016

CLOSED PROJECT Starts on left arete, diagonal rising traverse finishing at Pirate Life lower off

Équip.: steven wilson

STICK CLIP FIRST BOLT Start a few metres right of left arête of main wall, thin moves directly up past first bolt (crux) to jugs and second bolt on Rising Tide. Diagonally left to stance on arête then up past small alcove and slopey jugs to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, anthony pattison & steven wilson, 17 Déc 2016

Start between Rougues etc and Six on the Stick, straight up line taking third bolt of Rising Tide and last bolt of Rougues etc...nice!!

FA: Steve Holloway, 14 Avr 2017

Next in line of the Galleon three star trio! Another fantastic route on crimps, sidepulls and slopers...Enjoy!! Line left of Kingdom of Fear, then finishes up and right on jugs to same lower off for KoF.

FA: steven wilson, Steve Holloway & Chuck Picola, 13 Août 2016

Another Galleon classic is OPEN FOR BUSINESS!! Start half way along rock fin (couple of metres left of Splinter) straight up past first three bolts, then boulder out right (crux) then up and left to jug, then another cruxy move to last bolt then mega jugs! Enjoy

Équip.: Steve Holloway

FA: Steve Holloway & Mark Rewi, 6 Août 2016

Gets the blood moving - Centre line starting off top of rock fin, through black streaked bulge to lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, A. Holloway & Paul Revere, Avr 2015

Start in chasm just left of bolted crack on right side of crag. Bridge across from rock fin (careful of average rock at start), cruise up wall on great jugs to stance, drop the clutch and straight up wall on small holds to lower off

FA: Steve Holloway, Amanda Holloway, Brett Williams & Jeremy Greville, 5 Juil 2015

Crack and right arete. Start just right of Four on the Floor, up pocket crack to good stance on 'nose' of arete. Sail up arete on slopers and side pulls, step left at last bolt (crux), then back right to lower off NOTE (July 2016) - 2 x incorrectly placed / additional bolts on arete will be removed

Équip.: Steve Holloway

FA: Steve Holloway & K.J. Whitt, 27 Mars 2016

Bonjour !

Ici pour la première fois ?

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Auteur·e·s: Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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Ven 2 Juin
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