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Main Wall (Upper)

8

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Limitazioni per l'accesso ereditato da Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Etica ereditato da Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Vie

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Grado Via

Great beginner lead climb. Start on the super easy slab. Move into the cave arete with a committing crux for a beginner climb. Enjoy the exposure. Head up to the crack or slab headwall. Lots of options. Serves as a good tasting platter for different styles of climbing. Lacks the massive exposure of the other upper cliff routes. Top rope anchors and chains are accessible by rappelling down to the top of the climb. Two sets of anchors at the top, left set is better for top roping and rapping.

Tracciata: Philip Barker & John, 3 Lug 2023

FA: Philip Barker & John, 12 Lug 2023

1 16 25m
2 18 20m

An adventurous line offering panoramic views of Glenbrook Gorge and the Nepean. Mostly bomber but belayers beware loose rock. Bring ten draws including a few alpines.

  1. 25m (16) Slab to hidden rail under roof, left onto ledge, behind boulder, up enormous flake to belay ledge.

  2. 20m (18) Peculiar moves from boulder to face. Identify reliable holds and pull up and right through crux. Through gap then stem up final corner to ledge. Can belay here, but remain roped up for slippery scramble to rap chains a few metres above.

To exit walk down faint path on right starting about 10m away from cliff edge. Alternatively, a 70m dynamic rope reaches the ground from the rap chains with stretch - use a rope protector at the lip (same deal if top roping).

Tracciata: John & Philip Barker, 5 Lug 2023

FFA: John & Christian Pilarcik, 8 Lug 2023

Closed Project.

Bolted. Closed Project. Contains some temporary bolts. UNSAFE. STAY OFF.

Tracciata: Philip Barker

1 15 17m
2 15 23m
3 15 10m

Varied climbing, spectacular views. Bring ten quickdraws including alpines, and cams (.5,1,2,3) for pitches one and three. U-bolt anchors.

  1. 17m (15) Scamper up to corner crack and stem or jam, placing cams. Veer left onto ledge.

  2. 23m (15) Up onto horizontal band, traverse to nook, mindful of the arête. Optional belay. Mount and straddle the suspect feature.

  3. 10m (15) Stroll up to the crack for a bouldery finish. Fun problem, forgiving landing. Takes a .5 above the crux.

Walk off via faint trail heading right towards the Nepean.

Tracciata: Adrian Di Qual, 2 Ago 2023

FFA: Adrian Di Qual, John & Beau Hill, 3 Ago 2023

Easy crack to sharp crimps (trim your fingernails!) then slabbing into reachy crux 2 and jugs to the anchor. Commit to a long move for crux #2. Keep left of the crack (following the bolts) for the true tick.

The start can also be climbed direct (through the rooflet) for some added gnarliness.

Tracciata: Philip Barker

FA: Greg Ducky & Philip Barker, 18 Giu 2023

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Selected Guidebooks more Nascondi

Autore/i: Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Autore/i: Simon Carter

Data: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Alloggi in zona more Nascondi

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