도움

Janicepts Area

계절특성

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설명

The area between Debbie K and Short Wave. Home to a few of the most iconic splitters around.

접근 문제들 Blue Mountains으로부터 상속된

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

윤리문제 Blue Mountains으로부터 상속된

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

태그들

어떤 내용들은 ~로부터 허가아래 제공되었습니다. © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

Start 5m left on left side of arete.

FA: M.Law & L.Closs, 1979

Start as for Psychodrama - with great caution. Up crack and traverse right. Up to rounded knob at start of The Minotaur's traverse. Straight up finishing as for TM.

FA: M.Law & A.Penney, 1979

Start just left of the thin crack 10m down and R of Amen Corner (as for VotD). Up to roof and flake. Up. Traverse left to break, then up. Roof then up to ledge. Up.

Quote "One nasty fall off the initial thin crack saw ripped RPs and the leader bouncing down the slabs below the starting ledge, resulting in nasty injuries." If you trust RPs in Blueys rock you need a reboot. Either boulder boldly or use a high runner in Amen Corner. Take care.

FA: M.Law & B.Weitlisbach, 1978

Start as for Psychodrama. At half height where P goes left, crimp madly direct.

1 18 27m
2 19 22m

Start 9m left of P, 2m R of Amen Corner.

  1. 27m (18) Up to traverse line, right, up flake to bolt. Right to traverse line then to arete. Up.

  2. 22m (19) Up left to crack.

FFA: R.Vining

FA: (J.Ewbank (in rage) & J.Worrall.), 1966

Climb the face 3-6m R of Amen Corner. Start as for Minotaur. Joins Psychodrama for a few bolts in the middle then heads back left. Mostly (dodgy old) carrots, take brackets. Same lower-off as Amen Corner.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1990

Start from belay 1 of The Minotaur. Right to flake and up.

FA: J.Friend & M.Law, 1973

The major splitter corner crack initialled "AC". Take a full rack, but you stll have to run out the offwidth! Lower off chains (60m rope will get you to the ground on stretch).

FA: Bryden Allen † & M Peddler, 1964

Good thin face climbing protected by good thin gear. Climb Janicepts to the height of its pod then move slightly right and straight up wall above following a thin crack feature, finishing back L to Janicepts' anchor.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 2012

The splitter line 3m L of Amen Corner, initialled "J". Where the crack forks at 15m, take the left option. Take a full rack. Lower off chains (which are a bit outdated).

FA: John Ewbank, 1966

FFA: Mike Law, 1974

Not great rock! Start 6m left of TJ.

FA: M.Law, 1991

Start a few metres left of Whores du Combat, up a move, traverse left and up. Rings all the way (rebolted 2006).

FA: M.Law, 1983

Start as for Thin Time. The right hand route.

FA: G.Child & G.Bradbury, 1990

Start as for Thin Time but take the right line of bolts up orange face, through bulge and up snappy black face above. Was originally graded 24 - and appears to still be a sandbag at 25 considering the lack of successful ascents on this site!

FA: M.Law & G.Child, 1990

Start 26m left of TJ. Rebolted (~2007?), and excellent from go to whoa. Stick clip recommended as the starting flake does not sound good.

FA: M.Law, M.Johnston & W.Baird, 1978

Start left of TT at cairn. Up then left around arete.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1978

Start as for The Kraken. Takes the steepish wall 3-4m R of The Kraken. Check if it's still got bolts; there was talk of debolting this one.

FA: A.Farquar, 1993

Just another stunning line from a golden era of Australian climbing. Quite a different style to some of the other old school Piddo cracks too - which might explain why it was bumpy Bryden who got the send. Start 60m left of Skypilot. You have to scramble up 15m from the track to the base.

  1. 25m 21 Awesome orange corner crack to DRB (replaced 2013 - P.T)

  2. 15m The chimney above is usually not done.

FA: John Ewbank & John Worrall, 1967

FFA: Bryden Allen †, 1972

Start 2m left of The Kraken.

FA: J.Worrall & J.Ewbank, 1966

The wide broken chimney 10m left of K.

  1. 12m (12) To ledge and tree.

  2. 33m (12) Bridge tree to traverse left, up left past scrubby ledge.

  3. 13m (12) 'Gully'.

FA: J.Ewbank, P.Cameron & J.Davis, 1965

Start 5m left of TB. Grey groove to arete and up. Corner and gully.

FA: M.Law & W.Baird, 1978

9m L of PL. Up. right to rest. Up, then to arete and stance. Up.

FA: M.Law, J.Ewbank & A.Penney, 1979

4m L of VP. 3 pitches. Aid. Vegetated.

FA: B.Osbourne & J.Pickard, 1967

There is usually a waterfall trickling down the slabs. About 20m off the ground, there are two parallel cracks a few metres right of the waterfall. The second pitch of Taboo takes the left crack. Start 3m R of the waterfall.

  1. 20m (- M1) Up to roof and get over it using small trees for aid. Move R then up to small ledge beneath left crack.

  2. 30m (15 M1) Aid to get started, then up the obvious crack to the top.

FA: B.Osbourne, J.Pickard & K.Hore, 1967

Start 10m left of Taboo (7m left of the waterfall).

  1. 36m (-) Dirty wall and up to the pillar leaning against the headwall.

  2. 16m (19) Up the headwall past 1 bolt.

FA: (J.Ewbank & Carter), 1965

The next two routes start from the 1st belay of Idiot.

Start as for Idiot. Drop down, traverse left then up.

FA: Ewbank & Carter, 1965

4m left of Idiot anchor. Middle of the wall, corner and wall.

FA: Weigand & Knight, 1981

알고 계십니까?

귀하가 등반한 등정들의 기록, 추적 그리고 공유할 수 있는 계정을 만들 수 있다는 것을 알고 계십니까? 수천명의 등반가들이 이미 이런 일들을 하고 있습니다.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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