도움

Solomon Area

계절특성

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접근 문제들 Blue Mountains으로부터 상속된

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

접근

This is the far left (northern) sector of Piddo. If you want to start your day here (it gets sun a little earlier than the rest of the crag), it is possible to shave almost a kilometre off the usual walk-in by rapping in down Curtain Call.

There are two possible approaches:

  1. Hocus Pocus bush bash exit in reverse: Walk down the firetrail below the locked gate as usual, past the Boronia Point turnoff to the left, and about 80m further to the next small rise. Turn R into the bush here and follow the ridgetop due west for 200m to the clifftop. You may have to head 20m L to descend a small upper cliff; the hand-rope leading down to the Curtain Call rap chains is about 20m walk downhill from this point. If you navigate the bush bash ok it's less than 10 mins from the car to the rap anchor.

  2. The Witches Glen Approach Take the Witches Glen track, 10m before the sign marked "Witches Glen Pulpit Rock" find a track heading left. Follow this along the cliff top, the fixed rope is about 50m after an exposed shale traverse below a small upper section of cliff.

하강시 주의점

Many routes in this area top out. To descend, head to the chains at the top of Curtain Call and rap 28m to the ground. Note that getting to the rap anchor involves an exposed 15-20m downclimb, which is now equipped with a hand-over-hand rope, which you can clip into, or use your rope and abseil. Any mistake would see you go the 30-40m to the ground; proceed accordingly. Do NOT abseil off the dodgy unreversed ring bolts sitting in 2 loose blocks 3 metres back from cliff edge.

윤리문제 Blue Mountains으로부터 상속된

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

어떤 내용들은 ~로부터 허가아래 제공되었습니다. © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

Short, but feisty. Alternate access pitch for Solomon up chimney 5m to the right. Fair amount of loose rock, take care and keep your belayer out of the firing line!

Unlikely to be the actual FA, other details welcome.

FA: Hayden L & Sarah McVicker, 26 9월 2021

Exposed, sustained, steep arete with some exciting runouts. There is potential for big falls, but they'll be into space and the bolts are good, so you should be okay.

  1. 15m (14) As for Solomon pitch 1. Right to single bolt belay on arete.

  2. 35m (25 R) Up the sustained overhanging arete with a few gripping runouts. Bring: #4, #0.3, DMM wallnut #5 (or equivilent), #3, #0.75. The #0.3 and Blue Wallnut are critical placements. Do not miss them!

Belay from tree on top.

FA: W.Baird, 1981

1 15 20m
2 20 31m

The 2nd pitch is one of the classic trad pitches in the Blue Mountains. A stunning orange corner and airy traverse under a roof with oodles of history saturating your sweaty palms.

Start: Approx 28m left of 'Quits' beneath major right-angled corner.

  1. 20m (15) Corner to belay on slab beneath main corner (1 carrot bolt + trad for belay).

  2. 31m (20) Stunning orange corner then left around roof. Chossy easy corner above. The crack takes plenty of medium cams and is well protected - there are 4 old bolts on this pitch but these should NOT be used instead of placing trad gear.

FA: (J.Ewbank & A.Campbell), 1965

FFA: J.Friend, 1973

The face left of 'Solomon' pitch 2 and right of 'Tipster' with a few old carrots. Start: As for 'Solomon'.

FA: M.Baker, 1989

Start: As for 'Solomon', past diagonal crack (Gemini) on left. Step left and up. Slight left and up. About 5m left of the arete.

FA: W.Baird, 1982

1 19 25m
2 19 26m

Nowadays the leader can clean their own gear off pitch 1 by finishing at the anchors of 'Skinless Chicken', on the arete.

Start: As for 'Solomon'.

  1. 25m (19) Up Solomon's corner for 8m then take the left diagonal crack to blocks. DRB rap anchor.

  2. 26m (19) Often not bothered with. Left up the blocks, right to arete. Up.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1966

The right side of the arete- Flight Line for the masses.

Start: 6m left of S. Left of the arete to arete. Up.

FA: W.Baird, 1982

Thin face "slab" just right of Genesis.

  1. 25m (24) 7 rings to lower-off. Top is runout - medium cams may help.

  2. 25m (24) Left, through hard bulge, and up wall past a large thread, a med cam, and 3 old carrot bolts, then run out to top. Belay anchor from glue in stainless carrot set well back on clifflet behind, and boulder closer to edge.

FA: J.Smoothy & M.Law, 1989

Start a few metres L of Flight Line.

  1. Follow the stylish twin cracks up and diagonally left. Take 3 or 4 large (#4-5) cams or else the top is runout. Thread and Ubolt belay.

  2. The original finish headed off right as for Gemini, but the best option is to finish up the second pitch of 'Cardiac Arete' for a real classic.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1966

Start: Corner directly under CA.

FA: W.Williams & G.Wurth, 1986

1 17 20m
2 17 18m

Best option is to start up 'Genesis' and finish up this route.

Start: Left of 'Genesis' at short wide crack.

  1. 20m (17) Crack, arete to 'Genesis' belay.

  2. 18m (17) 'Arete' with bolts. Double rings at the top, saves using the mini bush for belay.

FA: D.Fletcher & W.Davenport, 1970

Start: Short chimney and gully to top.

Start: 6m left of KT.

FA: M.Law & J.Smoothy, 1978

Start: As for CnC. Trees, gully etc.

FA: W.Williams & I.Peterson, 1971

Start: Thin corner.

FA: G.Child, 1978

Start: 8m left of AC.

FA: G.Weigand & B.Jenkins, 1980

Start: 2m left of Pkea.

FA: G.Weigand, 1980

Start: 9m left of Z. Scrubby chimney.

FA: W.Kilham & B.Smith, 1964

Start: 11m left of B.

FA: A.Campbell, B.Osbourne & J.Pickard, 1966

Start: Thin chimney in corner left of E. 3 pitches. Take Care!

FA: J.Ewbank & D.Moss, 1966

Start: 5m left again.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1966

Start: 48m left of Sexton. Scrubby corner.

FA: J.Ewbank & C.Monteath, 1970

Start: 'Small' corner right of 'Encore'.

FA: J.Ewbank, P.Giles & V.Kennedy, 1969

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

Start: 4m left of 'The Last Act'. Corner.

FA: J.Ewbank & V.Kennedy, 1968

Start: Roofs 10 m before the waterfall. Through low roof with piton and gear to ledge. Up and left into the line and up to chimney then through and right to the top

FFA: One of the Cosseys

FA: J.Ewbank & Bryden Allen †, 1969

FA: Macciza. free with rests., 2006

Orange face/blunt arette 4m right of Space Face. Very thin and dynamic start leads to great climbing. Lower off and traverse (bolted) across to spaceface for exit.

FFA: E. Wells, 2015

Rap in route. From opposite first Piddo carpark walk 5min down Witches Glen trail , turn left at sundeck cave then leave track above second big prow (first prow has highline anchor) Fix a rapline and rap 18m off DRB down line of FH's to semi hanging belay with 2 FH and U-bolt. Clip the odd FH on the way down to stay in. Great exposure and a nice little ledge for rope.

FFA: E . Wells & T . Kluzniac, 17 10월 2014

This route will take you back to the Hornes Point descent gully! First half has been freed at ~23.

FA: J Ewbank & J Worrall, 1967

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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