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The Middle

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描述

To the right as you come out of the descent gully.

准入问题 取自The Soft Parade

The land manager, Blue Mountains City Council, and many local climbers consider the level of development of this crag to be excessive and problematic. Blue Mountains City Council considers this area to be a bad example of climber's self restraint and self management when creating new areas and has threatened closure. The creation of manicured tracks, rock cairns, fixed ropes, installation of non-official signage, guidebook letterboxes (!) and unrestrained levels of bolting are all areas of great concern. To maintain good relationships with Council - ACANSW advises the following when visiting Soft Parade.

• Do not mark the entrance of the track so it is visible from the main road.

• No moving rocks anywhere along the track or at the crag itself, including building rock cairns or retaining walls.

• No chopping, trimming or moving vegetation, including dead trees. Stick to all paths - don’t trample fire regrowth.

• No new routes, bolts or fixed ropes - Council considers this area overdeveloped already.

• Do not install signage, or leave "shared" stickclips, guidebooks etc at the cliff. Anything left will be removed.

• Reconsider large groups - the base of the cliff is steep & very susceptible to erosion.

• ACANSW recommends climbing guide instructors avoid taking clients to this area altogether as it sets a poor example to new climbers of what a climbing area should be.

• If you see anything that needs fixing such as fallen timber across a track - please contact the ACANSW who will then contact Council - do NOT fix it yourself.

行为准则 取自Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

线路

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Grade 线路

The climb on the free standing pillar. Take 12 draws.

Start on the big block to the right, hand traverse on the crimp rail to the left arete. Put up a good fight to stand on top of the pillar. Walk 2m to the left and bridge on to the headwall. Tricky but comparatively easier moves guard the exit.

定线/开线: Barry Jung

首攀: Nikhilesh Sharma, Greg Blachon & Luke C, 1 12月 2019

Left on the Juggy Wall

定线/开线: B Jung

首攀: S Puchala, 2012

Start at a sandy flake left of the cave.

定线/开线: S Puchala

首攀: S Puchala, 2012

Start on block right of Dirty Nuns with Chewing Gum, Up and diagonally left to blunt arete.

定线/开线: S Puchala

首攀: S Puchala & I thought this may have been 17 as FA. Happy yo update on consensus., 2012

To the right of the arete.

定线/开线: S Puchala

首攀: S Puchala, 2012

Right of Lazy Lizards

定线/开线: S Puchala

首攀: S Puchala, 2012

Companion route to the right of A Soft Touch

首攀: Set by B Jung, FA: S Smith & J Crass, 16 4月 2017

Start 8m right of A Soft Touch on next buttress. Up bulging slab with belay bolt at base of climb

定线/开线: B Jung

首攀: J Allwood, 2015

Delicate slab.

首攀: Tim Clarkson, 17 8月 2017

Follow the flake.

15m right of the block.

定线/开线: B Jung

首攀: S Puchala, 2012

Short wall 2m right of Avian Antics.

定线/开线: B Jung

首攀: J McCullogh, 2012

Juggy arete.

定线/开线: B Jung

首攀: S Puchala, 2012

Left hand route on the Kid's Slab just right of the arete.

定线/开线: B Jung

首攀: J Reay, 2012

Right hand route on Kid's Slab

(Training Ring to Right).

定线/开线: B Jung

首攀: B Jung, 2012

Line of carrots above the "test" lower-offs

定线/开线: Barry Jung, 2017

首攀: Barry Jung, 2017

First climb on the right of the descent gully.

Josie climbs her age on her first project.

定线/开线: B Jung

首攀: Josie McCullogh, 2012

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Simon Carter

日期: 2019

国际书号: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

作者: Simon Carter

日期: 2019

国际书号: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

附近的住宿 more 隐藏

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