线路 in Mt Maroon for selected grade

Start: The prominent crack line splitting the pillar just R of Micrococcus.

1. 25m 18 - Terrific climbing up a great crack line – a three star classic.

2. 40m 7 - Scramble/climb to top with not much protection.

Rao off tree at end of pitch 2.

Start: On the face below tree Left of TOJJ. (see topo)

1. 30m 14 - From tree up face (an 8m run-out on easy holds) to next thin gear, Left across ledge top to next corner & up this to belay from top of pillar.

2. 35m 18 – Off the pillar & follow the line of weakness (better than it looks), up to the corner Left of the large orange overhanging block, into the crack & up large chimney (run-out), exit out left to belay from large boulders.

Rap off tree just below. Crux is getting established in the crack.

Start: A few metres left of NHIMB, up the crack to the ledge.

This variant start makes the overall climb even better.

1. 18 35m - Up the prominent corner with sparse gear. Belay on ridge. The next 2 pitches go up The Tiger Face Annex.

Start: Between the cliff & the tree, 3m Left of BBTL.

Up slinging the tree, then step off RHS & up to 1st bolt at 7m. Follow the crack all the way to the top, passing another 4 RBs, or climb the last bit of BBTL.

Re-equippedwith RBs in 2020.

Start: 10m Left of GAG.

Climb the face with the diagonal cracks to the Right of the wedged-in tree. Then up to the big corner to the top.

All trad up a classic crack-line.

Start: behind the log just Left of OTL, below the RB.

Up to RB, then up as far as you can go, after 9th runner, move Right onto OTL to finish.

Take small cams. (! RB, 12 carrots)

Best of the climbs in this top section

Next right of Adagio.

Right next to Prancing Puntz. Looks imposing, but its not that hard.

Up left to inside of cave. Same rap chain as Maltesers.

The sinuous crack/groove right of the 3rd cave, which steepens notably after 30m. Great climbing despite vegetated appearance.

Starts at prominent blunt arete

Start: At a block (shown on topo), below a crackline on a clean face, far LHS of Tiger Face, just Right of The N.E. Buttress.

Up the crack-line, to the overhang, & up through this.

Start: About 100m right of the N.E. Buttress (see topo of start) in the shallow corner. The initial 1st belay block is now gone.

1. 47m 18 - Up the crack/corner.

2. 25m M4 - Up Right to bolt belay.

3. 16m 16/M1 - Step Right from top nut, up, free to tree belay(?).

4. 20m 12 - Stay left of mank gully, left up ramp.

5. 12m 13 - Crack to top.

Named after they spotted a girl on horseback that day. (Length of route is an approximation only)

Trevor's original notes: "trees" may no longer exist.

Start: First pitch is possibly Plate Of Vegetables, heading out Right.

1. 17 __m - Start up the thin finger crack just left of Kelvinator Country.

2. 14 __m - Traverse Right across the face.

3. 17 __m - Traverse Right across the face.

4. 12 __m - unknown

5. 18 __m - unknown

(Route length is approximate. Data from Screamer mag, Spring 1989 & Chris Frost.)

Start: Roughly 15-20m left of where The Graveyard Ridge meets The Tiger Face. A prominent column + crack/corner (see topo).

1. 20m 17 - Up wall for about 20m, then out right onto small ledge & tree(?) belay.

2. 33m 14 - Back out left, & up the crack & over blocks passing a home made bolt plate:

   Tiger Face - bolt+plate-Stacked Bacon

3. 39m 18 - Over block, trending Left, to tree belay(?).

4. 15m 7 - Left up wall to large gum(?).

5. 35m 14 - Groove to top.

(Highest part of the cliff, route length is approximate.)

Note: these are Trevor's original 1975 notes, so "trees" may no longer exist.

Look for the big, round boulder sitting on top of the route. Start far Left, almost on DII start, below a small gum tree growing out of the cliff face about 8m up. Carrots = you will need bolt plates. Small to medium cams, small to medium wires, about 20 quickdraws. Gear up to first carrot about 6-7m Left above the gum tree. Route wanders a bit, following the trad lines. Good gear in the crack on the Right. Next bolt about 10-12m up, quickly followed by another. Spaced trad gear in cracks to next bolt, then to ledge with chains on arete. 8m to final chains & top-out above.

Start: make your way along the narrow ledge right of Karma, at the initials "IFG", 7-8m above the ground.

Hard start, then easier up the slab to anchors.

NB: It is prudent to secure your belayer, given that it's a very narrow ledge about 8m off the deck. There is a small slot for gear next to the initials:

Grey Wall - 20200912_114224.jpg

All RBs.

15-20m down the slope from general belay area, initialed "BV". Shares an RB with black Munga (which trends left), then veers out Right. Very sustained climbing on friable rock. Save some strength for the top-out over the death blocks up to the chain around tree.

All FHs bar the 1 shared RB.

30m or so from the lh side: down the slope till you arrive at the prominent rib:

1. 12m 18 - Climb using the inside corner to a belay point (belay tree now gone, almost 50yrs on).

2. 31m 18 - Manky rock, then easy climbing to top.

3. 24m - easy climbing/scrambling to safe walk-off.

(Original RURP description)

NB: This route was done back in the day when 40m ropes were the only ones available. One could, in theory, run the whole lot together with smart management of one's runners.

Start: 20m down Right of the Hourglass pillar, in front of a large spotted gum.

1. 40m 18 Up heading towards 3rd corner Right of the Hourglass pillar, trend Right towards crack, then Left to belay on low angle wall.

2. 20m Up 7m, then Left to cross roof/corner at break, then 10m Left to belay.

3. 20m Up Right past water streak, then up Left to iron bark & belay on ledge.

Up the slope, right of the Frogmouth Cave. Crack & face climbing. The first bolt can be spotted from the ground.

"Start: The white line in the buttress. Start Right of Deep Purple.

1. 30m - Up, Left and up.

2. 37m - Start in back of cave, peg out under roof, then up the white line.

3. 15m - Last 15m free climbing.

"Superb climbing and positions - the best on the buttress."

RURP July/August 1972

(unfortunately neither Ron nor Tony can recall exactly where the route exited the cave or went from there.)

From RURP September 1971: "The East Face of Maroon, a perfect line where the light and dark rock meet."

1. 30m 17 Zigzag up easy blocks, etc., to a small corner niche. Up steep wall to a foothold belay ledge.

2. 30m 18 Up to overhang, left and up, then back right and up to a ledge with a small bush, up another 7-8m to a slightly bigger ledge.

3. 24m 10/M5 Free 6m, then follow nebulous crackline to a bivy under the headwall.

4. 24m M7 Follow the line to a sloping shelf, hanging belay.

5. 12m 10 Up with a peg for aid in lose blocks. Belay at foot of corner.

6. 30m 14/M3 Up corner to top of a pedestal. Aids in poor, rotten, crack, free to top, block belay.

"Gear: rurps, skyhooks, bathhooks, microhexes, and blades up to 1.5 angle (plenty of knives + a few crackers)."

Start: Head up & Right of the Deception II initials along a narrow, exposed ledge.

Take bolt plates.

1. 20m 17 7BRs - Follow the line of carrots up the broken face, one bucket at a time. (see photo of p1)

2. 35m 18 11BRs - From the belay, you can see a big round boulder on top of p2. Traverse far Right on verandah, passing a rocky outcrop. Start in open gully. Very similar to p1. Top out on the RH side, via the chockstone. Both pitches initialed + rap chains. (see photo of p2)

Unknown. Probably up the vertical face right of Meek and left of Boiled?

Right of Boiled. Left facing corner & cave. Straight up the corner on thin holds. Easier once cave is reached, bridge out of this (no gear) to top.

Very bold up the arete right of Jezebel. Hardly any pro worth speaking of, so prepare for a solo ascent. Fantastic climbing, though.

The ever narrowing crack just R. of Panic Run. Nice climbing to ledge, then bold to 2nd ledge (some spaced gear). Tricky mantle onto ledge. Finish up P2 of Panic Run.

Blunt arete, just R of Valkyrie.

Up Valkyrie for 4-5m on good gear, till you can step out R on small holds. Clip FH (2nd bolt on DS), up passing another 3 carrots, then small gear to top & chains.

Scott put in 4 carrots to protect this now classic route, receiving some criticism from Rob which lead to the naming of the route.

Still one of the best 18s around.

Up Thunderflash to 1st crux, then step R to Ready crack & up this to top. Avoids the nasty start on Ready.

2nd of the 4 cracks on this face. 1m r. of Thunderflash. Tricky & sustained start that leads to more sustained climbing. Pass the Willing & Able tree out on the right, to a hidden RB, then out right (crux) above an overhang, to the arete & top-out. Rap chains out left.

Broken crack 2m R of the blunt arete & FF&CP. Same start as for Masters Of War. Climb the broken crack with finicky gear, to 1st bolt (out right) on The Trevor Gynther Route, then head out left to sloping ledge, up the nice corner to chains on FF&CP.

This route is actually a condensation of pitches from separate routes by Rick & Rob. Pitch 1 is Rick's Yoni, after this, it morphs into Rob's Jug City and_?

5 pitches of (in reality) mundane climbing in a rather spectacular position.

1. 17m 15 - Off the flat rock (the "coffee table"), up the obvious crack & weakness left, to to ledge & trad belay.

2. 35m 17 - From the belay, you should be able to spot a small overhang with a semicircular waterstain beneath. The route passes right of this, then angle left towards a large belay ledge & DBB.

3. 42m 18 - A poorly protected, airy pitch, that ends in a hanging belay. Traverse Right, along the belay ledge a few metres, then angle up Right to join an obvious line of weakness. Continue up & over a slight bulge, trending Right to a hanging belay (nest of wires), at a small ledge. (NB: do not be tempted to head left into the big corner & off-width!)

4. 25m 17 - From the hanging belay, traverse Right a few metres, then angle up towards the prominent rock horn. Mantle onto the horn & avoid the manky vegetated groove by a juggy mantle onto the ledge on the Left. Continue trending up Right, to belay in a wide groove between a tree (?) & the wall.

5. 12m 10 - Exit over easy bulges until safe ground is reached.

Descent options:

A) Walk off from here: follow the watercourse up to the Saddle, then the hiker's track back down.

B) Rap back down.

Waterfall Wall - Waterfall Wall - abseil points

Traverse carefully (harness & long sling on), in Left over a large boulder to the carrot bolt on top. Clipping into this (bolt plate), traverse across the gap to the DBB rap station. Next DBB is about 45-50m on the face Left. Next DBB is about 30m on the large belay ledge. From here about 35-40m to the ground. (NB: the topo does NOT show the second rap point as it is not on the route.)

From the ledge overlooking Waterfall Wall (Grogan Wall), a bold traverse across the face of the waterfall to the outcrop on the otherside. Make your way up this to top. Do not attempt this climb after rain as the waterfall remains wet. A bold route through some mega-exposed territory.

(Description provided to me & shown on photo by the late Kevin Pearl.)

Thin finger crack Left of OBC. Up to same ledge as OBC & TB.

Obvious crackline with the tree growing out of it at 2/3 height. Tricky start to first gear. Somewhat vegetated, but technical crack climbing. Surmount the tree and up to the ledge above & rap off tree.

Climbing up a long crack 1" to 2" in width. A classic second pitch by going up the enclosed chimney.

On the wall, Right of BOTE, a tree at 30m.

1. Ascend the crack to the tree.

2. Continue with magnificent (easier) climbing up the enclosed chimney to top.

A blade & blocks mark the start. Up the crack system to a ledge, continue up to a body crack and tackle the jamb crack on the left side of the buttress to the top. 2 pitches of 18.

As per above.

"Even further Right of Tough Mamma is Hard Headed Woman 18, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From."

(Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977.)