Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
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Lun 5 Oct. 2015 - Coomba Falls | ||||||
Below the Waterfall The Spearhead | ||||||
19 20 | ★★ The Spearhead | 11m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Thought this was Fish. The mantle move is tricky, but I don't think it's 20 - at least not the way I did it. Maybe the arete is. I went right and finished up chimney. Bomber gear first half, no protection in second half and ground fall is possible/probable if you came off the slabby arete.
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Ven 25 Sept 2015 - Noosa National Park | ||||||
Head Games Gully Traditional Wall | ||||||
8 | FA Life Decisions - avec Jamie O'Brien | 12m | Pas la peine | |||
FFA. Ground up, onsight.
Thought the rock was reasonably good until I got on this. Madness! |
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17 | FA ★★ E0 - avec Jamie O'Brien | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
FFA. Rap inspection and clean, then ground up. A nice route but very heady to lead for me.
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12 | FA ★ Stairway to Choss - avec Jamie O'Brien | 25m | ||||
FFA. Ground up, onsight.
Fun, pretty hard moves right off the ground, but the protection was great. One of the most scenic top belays you'll find! Fantastic end to a day of adventure. Hard to grade - there's moves from 8 to 18 depending on where you go. |
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Lun 21 Sept 2015 - Mt Beerwah | ||||||
North-east face | ||||||
2 | ★★ East Beerwah | 390m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Awesome day of scrambling and steep hiking!
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Dim 20 Sept 2015 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Candy Mountain | ||||||
10 12 | ★ Dancing In The Rain | 12m, 5 | Pas la peine | |||
Grade 3? Relative to other stuff here, it's probably 10.
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15 14 | ★ The Magical Liopleurodon (The Mgical Liopleurodon) | 12m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
17 | ★ Critter Christmas | 12m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Cool moves, good holds.
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14 | ★ Banana King | 12m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Copied Lu's sequence. Made it much easier.
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18 | ★ Cookie Monster | 18m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
15 16 | ★ The Real Rainbow Unicorn | 18m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Pretty sure it was this - felt as hard as Cookie Monster. I think a whole bunch of holds have broken off between the 1st and 2nd bolt.
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20 | ★ Happy Pants | 18m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
The hard move is cool.
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Mer 16 Sept 2015 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Babylon | ||||||
14 | ★ Dang Fool | 10m, 2 | ||||
14 13 | ★ Fool's Errand | 15m, 4 | ||||
2-3 really nice moves through bulge.
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13 14 | ★ Heinzinator | 14m, 3 | ||||
12 11 | ★ As Thick As Two Planks Stuck Together With Stupid Glue | 25m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
Dim 13 Sept 2015 - Noosa National Park | ||||||
Cook's County | ||||||
11 | The Crazy Canadian | 12m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Nice ramble. Dirty at the top with loose rocks.
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18 | ★★ Dwarf Shortage | 12m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great moves through the bulge. First cut loose on trad. Would be brilliant if a touch more sustained and the ledge wasn't there.
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4 | ★ Grommet | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Lu's first trad lead! 3/4 of the placements were bomber. Some of the nuts were horrible because she "got bored" placing them, hahaha.
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13 | ★ Moon Tan | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Great little climb! Last one of the day.
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Ven 11 Sept 2015 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
13 | ★ Electric Mud | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great little route. Looks steep and a bit tricky from below, but there's jugs galore inside the corner.
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13 | First Layback | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Nice! The move to gain the slopey ledge held me up for a moment, and then some cool moves with bad feet. Solid 13.
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14 | Moll | 25m | Dans la moyenne | |||
I didn't mind some of the climbing, but there's loads of loose rock - some of it in very dangerous places. There's a massive boulder chock stone which forms the crux, and potential death if you crank it onto your head.
Won't be repeating this one. Deserves an 'R' rating. |
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9 9 R | Fluorescent Mank | 25m | Pourrie | |||
About as bad as a route gets, really. Very dirty. Ledgy. The gear was good, but it probably wouldn't stop you braking an ankle.
Went the full 35 metres to top out. |
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Mer 9 Sept 2015 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
NE Buttress Sector | ||||||
16 |
★★ Blabbermouth
- avec
Jamie O'Brien
1
grimpé en tête par
Me
2
grimpé en tête par
Me
3
grimpé en tête par
Me
4
grimpé en tête par
Me
5
grimpé en tête par
Me
| 200m, 6 | ★★★ Classique | |||
First 5 pitches. 5 hours car to car. Not too bad.
Brilliant route. Thoroughly enjoyed the cruisey 4th pitch after some of the fiddly gear and route finding. Shame we couldn't get the whole thing done but needed to be at work by 4. Good day. |
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Lun 7 Sept 2015 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
12 | Macbarren | 5m | ★ Bon | |||
I actually liked the moves, but it's very contrived considering you can reach the arete on both of the routes to the left and right, and to place gear you need to use the BB corner.
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Lun 7 Sept 2015 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 2 | 18m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Urrrrggghh! Brutal, painful, and awesome. So many bizarre noises made.
Became especially epic when the rope got stuck rapping, and I had to climb back up the rope, through the chimney again. Everything hurts. |
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12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1 | 12m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Love it, as usual.
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Lun 7 Sept 2015 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
12 | Doctor Pat's Crack | 10m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Tricky stemming, then game over. Guide was right on this one, not really worth racking up for.
Rambled up through some vegetation to the tree high up at 20m. |
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Dim 6 Sept 2015 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Andromeda | ||||||
16 | ★ Solar Eclipse | 20m, 4 | ||||
Cleaning.
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18 | ★ Mars | 15m, 5 | ||||
Cleaning.
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14 16 | ★ Absolute Zero | 15m, 4 | ||||
Cleaning. Rocksports members day.
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16 | ★ Asteroid Belt | 18m, 3 | ||||
18 19 | ★ Worm Hole | 17m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Sam 5 Sept 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
16 | Samson's Pillar | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Meant to put a top rope on surrender. Oops. Few interesting moves through the thin crack, but fairly average line.
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Mer 26 Août 2015 - Mt Beerwah | ||||||
Mosquito Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Bitten | 14m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Probably the easiest 15 but I think it's one of the nicest. Consistent moves, but maybe harder if you're short.
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15 | ★ Tropical Strength | 14m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Again, crux pocket move is harder than the rest. Pretty fun.
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15 | ★ Low Irritant | 12m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Tricky, thin sequence. Probably an easier way to do it but it's harder than 15.
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15 | ★ Ava Good Weekend | 12m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Bouldery start is a good move but like a lot of these, makes the route very cruxy.
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13 | ★ Malaria | 14m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice. Bit more sustained and consistent.
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11 | ★ Aeroguard | 14m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lovely!
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Mar 25 Août 2015 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
15 | Pop-up Toaster | 6m | ★ Bon | |||
Did this a while ago.
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14 | Baby's Bottom | 8m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Packs some real difficulty into the bottom few metres. Then it's cruisey. Nice moves!
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9 | Three Nuns | 20m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Easy beginner lead, decent gear. Cool beans.
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Mar 25 Août 2015 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
9 | ★ Short and Sweet | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
First day of project to tick all climbs 15 and below at Frog!
Good start. Easy, bomber gear. |
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7 | ★ Excreta | 15m | ||||
Super grunty fun! It's run out at the start, but it's a chimney so not so bad. Doesn't deserve the R I don't think. Actually some good gear.
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8 | Satisfaction | 30m | ||||
Great beginner lead. Long, good gear, few nice jams.
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Lun 24 Août 2015 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fort Knox The Motherlode | ||||||
14 | ★ Toilet Bowl | 12m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Only thing left to climb in the rain. What a gem of a climb at this grade. Beautiful rock.
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Lun 24 Août 2015 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Winnie The Pooh Goes Honey Hunting | 12m | ★★ Excellent | |||
First climb of our mini trip. Putting a top rope up for some beginners.
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Lun 24 Août 2015 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress | ||||||
15 | FA ★★ Our Kind Of Sunday | 8m | ★ Bon | |||
FFA. Nice little climb with decent gear. Fantastic way to finish the day.
Onsight ground up. |
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19 | ★★ Exit Right Pursued By Bear | 8m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
The face to the right of the large crack. Maybe 20-21? Was damp and very dirty. Would be a bold lead.
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Dim 23 Août 2015 - Coffs Harbour | ||||||
Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress | ||||||
17 16 | ★ Love And Marriage | 8m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Led direct with a harder move to gain the overhang. Nice climb.
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13 | ★ Divorce | 8m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Good gear, big holds, off vertical. Great beginner lead/warm up.
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18 | ★★ Disbelief | 8m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great, crimpy, technical climbing. Adequate gear up high. Lu couldn't touch the moves on this so it might be 19 I think.
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Mar 18 Août 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
10 | Traverse To Bufo | 7m | Pourrie | |||
Setting up top rope for Bufo.
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14 | ★ Spooge In A Glove | 15m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Mar 18 Août 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ The Bee's Knees | 16m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Thought we were on Lemur's Femur. Oops.
Crux moves through bulge are not trivial. Tricky to read. |
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14 | ★ That Boy Needs Therapy. | 15m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice juggy, steep line. Apparently I've tried it before but remembered nothing.
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Lun 17 Août 2015 - Mt Maroon | ||||||
Viewpoint Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ The Technician | 35m, 1 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Fantastic route! Eyeballed it from the ground without the guide.
Funky moves through caves, stemming, jams - has it all. Good gear too. I didn't see the bolt but it felt adequately protected either way. Ended up finishing the climb by climbing the back of the detached pillar as an offwidth/squeeze chimney to step across to a tree belay 5m to the left. No gear for last 8m but you won't fall out of that chimney anytime soon. Thanks for belay Chris! |
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Sam 15 Août 2015 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★ Witches Cauldron (Variant Finish) (?) | 14m | ★★ Excellent | |||
So I think this is how I lead Witches Cauldron. Thought this was just the way it worked.
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Mer 12 Août 2015 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
10 | ★ Sunday Afternoon Walk | 12m | ★★ Excellent | |||
13 | ★ Tardis | 10m | ||||
What a fun route!
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15 11 | ★ Parson's Pleasure | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
Did second/longer pitch variant.
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Mer 12 Août 2015 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1 | 12m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Easy mileage day!
Love this route so much. Always end up laughing while I'm climbing it. |
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Lun 3 Août 2015 - Mt Beerwah | ||||||
Mosquito Wall | ||||||
10 | FA ★ A Tick Among Mozzies - avec Cris | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Good, easy climbing on jugs! Little trad tick at a sport crag is always fun.
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14 | ★ Dengue Fever | 15m, 4 | ||||
Nice little lead.
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14 | ★ Bug Off | 14m, 3 | ||||
Cool climb, awesome edges.
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16 | ★ Rid | 14m, 4 | ||||
One long move that's harder than the rest.
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Lun 27 Juil 2015 - Mt Beerwah | ||||||
Short Cool Ones Wall | ||||||
14 16 | ★ Proven Guilty (PG) (Proven Guilty) | 100m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Deserves a star. Cool face moves and pretty good protection. Delicate footwork.
I think it could be 15. Mr Carter must have been a wizard on the slab with some of these original grades. |
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Lun 20 Juil 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
18 A1 | ★ Hanger Wall | 18m, 15 | ||||
First aid route! So cool. I feel like this style comes naturally to me. Shame there aren't more around. I've got so much respect for the early climbers who put up baller aid routes on gear. Not as easy as it seems!
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Dim 19 Juil 2015 - Brooyar | ||||||
Point Pure | ||||||
15 | ★ MD | 30m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
On top belay after Lu's lead.
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15 | ★★ Coco Pops | 30m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
The roof move is a big ask for a person climbing at grade 15. Run outs are no joke either.
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Dim 19 Juil 2015 - Brooyar | ||||||
Black Stump Buttresses | ||||||
16 | ★ Snake Charmer | 15m, 7 | ||||
Nice route, fantastic holds.
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13 | ★ One Legged Dog | 18m, 7 | ||||
Super fun 13.
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Sam 18 Juil 2015 - Mt Beerwah | ||||||
Short Cool Ones Wall | ||||||
12 | I'll Think Of Something | 25m | ||||
Think it was this. Great gear down low, became sparse higher up so went right, up and then veered left to get anchor higher up. Some nice moves.
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10 | ★ What A Dish | 25m | ||||
No noticeable difference in difficulty between this and I'll think of something. Bulge is cool. Bomber gear below and jugs above. Ended up TB second and did a linking traverse pitch to chains 10m right.
May have been on the wrong route. |
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Lun 13 Juil 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
14 12 | ★ JAFKPR | 13m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Cleaning for Taz and Kynon.
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14 12 | ★ JAFKPR | 13m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Up to anchors to clean Rabbatoid.
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18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lap. Really enjoy this route.
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18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Cleaning.
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Dim 12 Juil 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
14 12 | ★ JAFKPR | 13m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Cleaning Lu's gear.
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17 | ★ Pterodactyl D | 17m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Top rope to clean. straightforward, readable moves on good holds. Shame about the high RB. Start looks protectable with natural gear.
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18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Putting up a top rope for Lu to try the crux move.
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Ven 10 Juil 2015 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Desperation Wall | ||||||
10 | ★★ Black Orpheus | 140m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Led all pitches. With Nathan. Did a variant second pitch, ended up belaying the chimney for a bit further down the ledge than normal.
Typical Tibro slab, run out fun, |
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Jeu 9 Juil 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Spooge In A Glove | 15m, 4 | ||||
Draws up for Jamie.
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13 | ★ Spooge In A Glove | 15m, 4 | ||||
Cleaning.
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8 6 | ★ Spidermonkey | 15m, 8 | ||||
Teaching Jamie to lead belay.
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13 12 | ★ JAFKPR | 13m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Top belay and rap with Jamie.
One of the better easy beginner leads I think. Falls are ok, a couple decent moves. Enjoyed it. |
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Sam 4 Juil 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ The Arrow and the Song | 26m, 9 | ★ Bon | |||
Cleaning anchors after Lu's awesome lead. Olly had a go on top rope too. Tricky move for a 15 down low.
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Sam 4 Juil 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grey Slab | ||||||
20 | ★ Nude Tuesday | 20m | ||||
Easier than I remember. Going right of bolt avoids reachy move that I did last time. Much easier.
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Jeu 2 Juil 2015 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Andromeda | ||||||
10 | ★ Space Dust | 28m, 5 | ||||
Up to top belay juniors and set up a rap. Good fun. Not so much the better exposure that this part of the cliff has.
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17 | ★ Horse Head Nebula | 17m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Cleaning gear juniors.
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16 | ★ Solar Eclipse | 20m, 4 | ||||
Setting top rope juniors.
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18 | ★ Gravitational Equilibrium | 20m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Cleaning gear juniors.
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15 18 | ★ Dark Matter | 17m, 6 | ||||
Think it was this. Left of Wormhole, 3 RB to gain ledge. Harder moves than the other 15s here by some margin.
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Mar 30 Juin 2015 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Right Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Stoat Clips Bolts | 18m, 6 | ||||
Balancy for me. Took a while to work out the move to the second bolt after getting muddled. The rest was fine.
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18 | ★ Pterodactyl | 17m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Up after Nick's practise falls to the chain. Nice climb. People say it's scary but I don't really see it. The clipping stances are solid and the trickier moves are protected.
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21 | ★★ Idiot Wind | 18m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really stoked to get this done. Been a bit of a mental hurdle for me for a while. Knew it was well within my capabilities, but for whatever reason, I was anxious to climb hard at KP.
Pretty gripped on the actual lead, probably struggled most down low. Found the top section straightforward, albeit a tad pumpy. Calling it a flash despite having top roped a portion of this before, given that it was right when I'd started climbing, and I certainly didn't remember any moves. |
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17 | ★ Dysentery | 18m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
After Nick's lead to clean. Found better beta for the move above the steep stuff.
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Dim 21 Juin 2015 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Caves Route Sector | ||||||
4 | ★★★ Caves Route | 520m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Taking Dave up and with Lu as support team. Leading/soloing on doubles and bringing them up on top belay. Fantastic day out - one to remember. Did the direct line out of cave 5 and finished up the chimney. Hiked down the tourist track.
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