Ayuda

Sikati Bay Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

peta barrett Tobias Auth Campbell Gome Chris Hailey David Yannick Froese Michail Wendy Law

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Table of contents

1. Sikati Bay 66 routes in Area

Summary:
E
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Estacionalidad

Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 37.060940, 26.945864

Ética

  • PREPARE to leave nothing behind (trashbag, etc).
  • Use your own gear for toproping. Use fixed gear only for lowering. (See first section of guidebook for details.)
  • Minimize single-use plastic. No recycling on the island (yet).
  • Use established paths and close gates behind you.
  • Consider a donation to the rescue team (red boxes).
heredado de Kalymnos

1.1. Sikati Cave 38 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mayormente Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 37.059645, 26.938089

descripción

Sikati Cave is a wild, massive hole in the ground which looks like it’s been created by a giant meteorite impact. Climbers call it Sikati, but the locals call it Alatsia. Sikati is an enormous cave with no roof, a diameter of 50-60m, and a depth of 70m at parts. Its surrounding walls are full of tufas and stalactites. Inside Sikati Cave the steep, overhanging limestone is “out of this world” with enormously long routes up the walls, and ‘trade-mark’ Kalymnian 3D climbing.

Acceso

A 2km hike from here [37.0503, 26.9520]. It's also possible to hire a boat to Sikati beach. Detailed approach notes in the local guidebook. Alternatively you can scout the path on google maps - the path is quite obvious from above.

The access to the sector itself can be done via rap-in bolts or via a fixed rope (replaced in 2018 after the old rope was in dangerous condition).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Entrance Area

2 BMW

Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos, Antonis Kokkinos & Nicolas Iatropoulos, 2005

6b Deportiva 15m
3 B69

Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos, Antonis Kokkinos & Nicolas Iatropoulos, 2005

5c Deportiva 15m
4 Exit

The entrance and exit to 'Sikati Cave', equipped with a fixed rope.

Equip: 2005

4a Deportiva 18m
5 Balaklava

Equip: Andrej Skripnichenko, 2020

6b Deportiva 22m, 10
6 Way of the Samurai

Equip: Andrej Skripnichenko, 2020

6c+ Deportiva 25m, 12
7 Way of the Scythian

Equip: Andrej Skripnichenko, 2020

6c Deportiva 24m, 10
8 Abrazis

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

5c+ Deportiva 20m
9 Adini

Can be top-roped from the 'Abrazis' anchor.

Equip: 2004

5c Clásica 25m
10 Abrazos

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

6c+ Deportiva 20m

Jaws Area

12 El Choco Loco

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

6b+ Deportiva 20m
13 El Chupodromo

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

6c+ Deportiva 25m
14 Les Pirates de Sikati

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

7a+ Deportiva 30m
15 Les Pirates de Sikati Plus

Left extension to 'Les Pirates de Sikati'.

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

8a Deportiva 45m
16 Les Dents de la Mer

Right extension to 'Les Pirates de Sikati'.

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

7c Deportiva 40m
17 Les Dents de la Mer (Jaws Linkup)

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

8b+ Deportiva 55m
18 Jaws

Men's "ultimate route" during the PETZL Roctrip 2006.

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

NA: Adam Ondra, 2009

8c Deportiva 50m
19 Mort aux Chèvres

An impressive, rightward leaning line of tufas with a crux sequence on small holds. The bolts are far apart for Kaly standards.

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

7a+ Deportiva 30m
20 Mort aux Chèvres Ext

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

8a+ Deportiva 60m

Lolita Area

22 Morgan

Advertencia Equipo fijo: Potentially bad gear.

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

7b+ Deportiva 25m
23 Adam

Extension to 'Morgan'.

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

7c Deportiva 32m
24 Morgan Adam est une Andalouse

Second extension to 'Morgan' and 'Adam'.

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

8a Deportiva 75m
25 Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas

Advertencia Equipo fijo: Crux bolt spinning

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

7c+ Deportiva 30m
26 Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas Ext 1

Women's "ultimate route" during the PETZL Roctrip 2006.

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

8b Deportiva 60m
27 Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas Ext 2

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

8b+ Deportiva 80m
28 Les Arts du Vide

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

8b Deportiva 40m
29 Lolita

Probably not your first 7a. A stiff intro, some intimidating moves on mushrooms and a bouldery crux higher up. The bolts are far apart for Kaly standards.

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

7a Deportiva 25m
30 Super Lolita

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

7c+ Deportiva 45m

Armata Area

32 Kalyrock.com

Equip: 2006

7c Deportiva 70m, 3
33 Little Bulbos

Advertencia Equipo fijo: Crux bolt nut loose

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

7c+ Deportiva 33m
34 Armata Sikati

Advertencia Equipo fijo: 2nd bolt without hanger and rusty.

Continuously interesting climbing on picture-perfect Kaly-style rock. Good rests and a crux on tufa pipes.

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

7b Deportiva 35m
35 Armata Sikati Ext

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

7b+ Deportiva 50m
36 Laurent... y a Quelqu'un

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

7c Deportiva 38m
37 Où est l'Équipe

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004

7b Deportiva 25m
38 No time for safety

Awesome route on cool tufas with a pumpy finish. Sure to be a classic!

PA: Dave Lane, 14 Abr

7a+ Deportiva 30m, 14
39 Dropzone

A technical intro, some nice tufas and a crucial hidden hold.

Equip: Marcel Dettling & S Raab, 2012

6c Deportiva 25m
40 Happy Boyfriend

Advertencia Equipo fijo: Anchor heavily corroded

Equip: Marcel Dettling & S Raab, 2012

6a+ Deportiva 20m
41 Body Buldeuse

Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006

7b+ Deportiva 20m
42 Kontrato

Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos, Antonis Kokkinos & Nicolas Iatropoulos, 2005

7a+ Deportiva 20m

1.2. The Beach 28 routes in Sector

Summary:
Todo Escalada deportiva

Lat / Long: 37.058827, 26.949385

descripción

Climbing next to a beach! Even though you pass a very dirty beach on the approach (which could be much cleaner if anyone collected some bottles) "The Beach" is clean. So pack your shorts and bikinis! The rock quality is good but doesn't live up to the high standard of the island so far. Most routes here were equipped between 2009 and 2014 and especially the hard routes haven't seen as much traffic. So mind the possibility of falling rock!

In the shade after 13:00.

Acceso

Starting at the very steep concrete road near Skalia village (37.0415, 26.9481) drive upwards to and past the col (About 250 m asl). After the 5th and last hairpin turn on your way down, you reach a gravel path to the left (37.0515, 26.9572). There's room for scooters to park next to the concrete road. You will often times see a lot of them already standing there, as this is the same spot as for Secret Garden.

Walk down the gravel path for 30 meters and take a left turn onto the narrow, gently descending path north-west. After reaching "the trash beach" (If you want to feel better about it take a big trash bag with you and collect some bottles) continue to the left along the shoreline. Walking time: 20 minutes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

On the Beach

Located 50m to the left of the main wall, behind the ruins on the beach.

2 3 Generations

Equip: Thomas Jekel, Sandra Jekel & M Hensel, 2014

6a+ Deportiva 18m
3 Pieks

Equip: Thomas Jekel, Sandra Jekel & M Hensel, 2014

6a Deportiva 18m

Main Wall

5 Starfish

Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013

5a Deportiva 22m
6 Sailor

Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013

6a Deportiva 23m
7 Goat Memorial

Equip: Thomas Jekel & Sandra Jekel, 2011

5b Deportiva 25m, 8
8 Sea Urchin

Equip: Ute Friedrich, Joachim Friedrich, Gunter Hommel & Antje Lehmann, 2013

6a Deportiva 20m, 6
9 Family Business

Equip: Thomas Jekel & Sandra Jekel, 2011

5b Deportiva 25m, 8
10 Suite

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009

5c+ Deportiva 30m, 9
11 Piero & Angela

Advertencia Flora y Fauna: Birds nesting in the route to the left ...

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009

6a Deportiva 30m, 11
12 Ciuccia Bau

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009

6b Deportiva 30m, 11
13 One Year

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009

6c+ Deportiva 25m
14 Rocco Family

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009

6c+ Deportiva 24m
15 Apollo's Miracle

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2010

7b+ Deportiva 25m
16 Elizabeth

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009

7b Deportiva 25m
17 Four Years

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2011

7c Deportiva 20m
18 Material Man

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2010

7a+ Deportiva 18m
19 Where Are My Bolts?

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2012

6b+ Deportiva 18m
20 Levante

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2012

6b Deportiva 20m
21 Bronchitos

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2013

6a Deportiva 18m
22 Sweet Remy

A short slab on good rock but with a technical crux.

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2013

5a Deportiva 15m
23 Blue Lagoon

Equip: Falk Heinicke, Cathleen Heinicke, Anett Riemer, I Haberstreit & S Haberstreit, 2012

5b Deportiva 25m
24 Nixe

Equip: Christine Fiedler & Falk Heinicke, 2018

5b Deportiva 22m
25 Krabbe

Equip: Christine Fiedler & Falk Heinicke, 2018

6a Deportiva 22m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Far Right

Located 50m to the right of the main wall, behind a big boulder.

27 Tomboy

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2013

6c Deportiva 25m
28 Karpouzi

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2013

5c+ Deportiva 20m
29 Octopus Crack

Advertencia Equipo fijo: Missing hanger & old rusty quicklinks

Equip: Hannes Webhofer & Elena Ovchinnikova, 2014

7b+ Deportiva 35m
30 Flying Fish

Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2014

7a+ Deportiva 20m
31 Peponi

A nice traverse and crack. Not so easy to remove the quickdraws, though.

Equip: Zio Tibia, 2013

6a Deportiva 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
4a Exit Deportiva 18m 1.1. Sikati Cave
5a Starfish Deportiva 22m 1.2. The Beach
Sweet Remy Deportiva 15m 1.2. The Beach
5b Blue Lagoon Deportiva 25m 1.2. The Beach
Family Business Deportiva 25m, 8 1.2. The Beach
Goat Memorial Deportiva 25m, 8 1.2. The Beach
Nixe Deportiva 22m 1.2. The Beach
5c Adini Clásica 25m 1.1. Sikati Cave
B69 Deportiva 15m 1.1. Sikati Cave
5c+ Abrazis Deportiva 20m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Karpouzi Deportiva 20m 1.2. The Beach
Suite Deportiva 30m, 9 1.2. The Beach
6a Bronchitos Deportiva 18m 1.2. The Beach
Krabbe Deportiva 22m 1.2. The Beach
Peponi Deportiva 20m 1.2. The Beach
Pieks Deportiva 18m 1.2. The Beach
Piero & Angela Deportiva 30m, 11 1.2. The Beach
Sailor Deportiva 23m 1.2. The Beach
Sea Urchin Deportiva 20m, 6 1.2. The Beach
6a+ Happy Boyfriend Deportiva 20m 1.1. Sikati Cave
3 Generations Deportiva 18m 1.2. The Beach
6b BMW Deportiva 15m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Balaklava Deportiva 22m, 10 1.1. Sikati Cave
Ciuccia Bau Deportiva 30m, 11 1.2. The Beach
Levante Deportiva 20m 1.2. The Beach
6b+ El Choco Loco Deportiva 20m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Where Are My Bolts? Deportiva 18m 1.2. The Beach
6c Dropzone Deportiva 25m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Way of the Scythian Deportiva 24m, 10 1.1. Sikati Cave
Tomboy Deportiva 25m 1.2. The Beach
6c+ Abrazos Deportiva 20m 1.1. Sikati Cave
El Chupodromo Deportiva 25m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Way of the Samurai Deportiva 25m, 12 1.1. Sikati Cave
One Year Deportiva 25m 1.2. The Beach
Rocco Family Deportiva 24m 1.2. The Beach
7a Lolita Deportiva 25m 1.1. Sikati Cave
7a+ Kontrato Deportiva 20m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Les Pirates de Sikati Deportiva 30m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Mort aux Chèvres Deportiva 30m 1.1. Sikati Cave
No time for safety Deportiva 30m, 14 1.1. Sikati Cave
Flying Fish Deportiva 20m 1.2. The Beach
Material Man Deportiva 18m 1.2. The Beach
7b Armata Sikati Deportiva 35m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Où est l'Équipe Deportiva 25m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Elizabeth Deportiva 25m 1.2. The Beach
7b+ Armata Sikati Ext Deportiva 50m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Body Buldeuse Deportiva 20m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Morgan Deportiva 25m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Apollo's Miracle Deportiva 25m 1.2. The Beach
Octopus Crack Deportiva 35m 1.2. The Beach
7c Adam Deportiva 32m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Kalyrock.com Deportiva 70m, 3 1.1. Sikati Cave
Laurent... y a Quelqu'un Deportiva 38m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Les Dents de la Mer Deportiva 40m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Four Years Deportiva 20m 1.2. The Beach
7c+ Little Bulbos Deportiva 33m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas Deportiva 30m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Super Lolita Deportiva 45m 1.1. Sikati Cave
8a Les Pirates de Sikati Plus Deportiva 45m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Morgan Adam est une Andalouse Deportiva 75m 1.1. Sikati Cave
8a+ Mort aux Chèvres Ext Deportiva 60m 1.1. Sikati Cave
8b Les Arts du Vide Deportiva 40m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas Ext 1 Deportiva 60m 1.1. Sikati Cave
8b+ Les Dents de la Mer (Jaws Linkup) Deportiva 55m 1.1. Sikati Cave
Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas Ext 2 Deportiva 80m 1.1. Sikati Cave
8c Jaws Deportiva 50m 1.1. Sikati Cave
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