A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jannik
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Table of contents
- 1.
Sikati Bay
66 in Area
- 1.1. Sikati Cave 38 in Sector
- 1.2. The Beach 28 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Sikati Bay 66 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 37.060940, 26.945864
- PREPARE to leave nothing behind (trashbag, etc).
- Use your own gear for toproping. Use fixed gear only for lowering. (See first section of guidebook for details.)
- Minimize single-use plastic. No recycling on the island (yet).
- Use established paths and close gates behind you.
- Consider a donation to the rescue team (red boxes).
Ética
1.1. Sikati Cave 38 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 37.059645, 26.938089
descripción
Sikati Cave is a wild, massive hole in the ground which looks like it’s been created by a giant meteorite impact. Climbers call it Sikati, but the locals call it Alatsia. Sikati is an enormous cave with no roof, a diameter of 50-60m, and a depth of 70m at parts. Its surrounding walls are full of tufas and stalactites. Inside Sikati Cave the steep, overhanging limestone is “out of this world” with enormously long routes up the walls, and ‘trade-mark’ Kalymnian 3D climbing.
Acceso
A 2km hike from here [37.0503, 26.9520]. It's also possible to hire a boat to Sikati beach. Detailed approach notes in the local guidebook. Alternatively you can scout the path on google maps - the path is quite obvious from above.
The access to the sector itself can be done via rap-in bolts or via a fixed rope (replaced in 2018 after the old rope was in dangerous condition).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Entrance Area | ||||||||
2 |
★★ BMW
Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos, Antonis Kokkinos & Nicolas Iatropoulos, 2005 | 6b | 15m | |||||
3 |
B69
Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos, Antonis Kokkinos & Nicolas Iatropoulos, 2005 | 5c | 15m | |||||
4 |
★ Exit
The entrance and exit to 'Sikati Cave', equipped with a fixed rope. Equip: 2005 | 4a | 18m | |||||
5 |
★★ Balaklava
Equip: Andrej Skripnichenko, 2020 | 6b | 22m, 10 | |||||
6 |
Way of the Samurai
Equip: Andrej Skripnichenko, 2020 | 6c+ | 25m, 12 | |||||
7 |
Way of the Scythian
Equip: Andrej Skripnichenko, 2020 | 6c | 24m, 10 | |||||
8 |
Abrazis
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 5c+ | 20m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Adini
Can be top-roped from the 'Abrazis' anchor. Equip: 2004 | 5c | 25m | |||||
10 |
★ Abrazos
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
Jaws Area | ||||||||
12 |
★ El Choco Loco
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
13 |
★★ El Chupodromo
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
14 |
★★ Les Pirates de Sikati
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Les Pirates de Sikati Plus
Left extension to 'Les Pirates de Sikati'. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 8a | 45m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Les Dents de la Mer
Right extension to 'Les Pirates de Sikati'. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 7c | 40m | |||||
17 |
★★★ Les Dents de la Mer (Jaws Linkup)
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 8b+ | 55m | |||||
18 |
★★★ Jaws
Men's "ultimate route" during the PETZL Roctrip 2006. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 NA: Adam Ondra, 2009 | 8c | 50m | |||||
19 |
★★★ Mort aux Chèvres
An impressive, rightward leaning line of tufas with a crux sequence on small holds. The bolts are far apart for Kaly standards. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
20 |
★★★ Mort aux Chèvres Ext
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 8a+ | 60m | |||||
Lolita Area | ||||||||
22 |
★★★ Morgan
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Potentially bad gear. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
23 |
★★★ Adam
Extension to 'Morgan'. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 7c | 32m | |||||
24 |
★★★ Morgan Adam est une Andalouse
Second extension to 'Morgan' and 'Adam'. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 8a | 75m | |||||
25 |
★★★ Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Crux bolt spinning Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 7c+ | 30m | |||||
26 |
★★★ Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas Ext 1
Women's "ultimate route" during the PETZL Roctrip 2006. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 8b | 60m | |||||
27 |
★★★ Por una Sociedad con Mujeres Satisfechas Ext 2
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 8b+ | 80m | |||||
28 |
★★★ Les Arts du Vide
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 8b | 40m | |||||
29 |
★★★ Lolita
Probably not your first 7a. A stiff intro, some intimidating moves on mushrooms and a bouldery crux higher up. The bolts are far apart for Kaly standards. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 7a | 25m | |||||
30 |
★★★ Super Lolita
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 7c+ | 45m | |||||
Armata Area | ||||||||
32 |
★★ Kalyrock.com
Equip: 2006 | 7c | 70m, 3 | |||||
33 |
★★★ Little Bulbos
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Crux bolt nut loose Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 7c+ | 33m | |||||
34 |
★★★ Armata Sikati
Advertencia Equipo fijo: 2nd bolt without hanger and rusty. Continuously interesting climbing on picture-perfect Kaly-style rock. Good rests and a crux on tufa pipes. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 7b | 35m | |||||
35 |
★★★ Armata Sikati Ext
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 7b+ | 50m | |||||
36 |
★★★ Laurent... y a Quelqu'un
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 7c | 38m | |||||
37 |
★★★ Où est l'Équipe
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 7b | 25m | |||||
38 |
★★ No time for safety
Awesome route on cool tufas with a pumpy finish. Sure to be a classic! PA: Dave Lane, 14 Abr | 7a+ | 30m, 14 | |||||
39 |
★★ Dropzone
A technical intro, some nice tufas and a crucial hidden hold. Equip: Marcel Dettling & S Raab, 2012 | 6c | 25m | |||||
40 |
★★ Happy Boyfriend
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Anchor heavily corroded Equip: Marcel Dettling & S Raab, 2012 | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
41 |
★★ Body Buldeuse
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
42 |
★ Kontrato
Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos, Antonis Kokkinos & Nicolas Iatropoulos, 2005 | 7a+ | 20m |
1.2. The Beach 28 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 37.058827, 26.949385
descripción
Climbing next to a beach! Even though you pass a very dirty beach on the approach (which could be much cleaner if anyone collected some bottles) "The Beach" is clean. So pack your shorts and bikinis! The rock quality is good but doesn't live up to the high standard of the island so far. Most routes here were equipped between 2009 and 2014 and especially the hard routes haven't seen as much traffic. So mind the possibility of falling rock!
In the shade after 13:00.
Acceso
Starting at the very steep concrete road near Skalia village (37.0415, 26.9481) drive upwards to and past the col (About 250 m asl). After the 5th and last hairpin turn on your way down, you reach a gravel path to the left (37.0515, 26.9572). There's room for scooters to park next to the concrete road. You will often times see a lot of them already standing there, as this is the same spot as for Secret Garden.
Walk down the gravel path for 30 meters and take a left turn onto the narrow, gently descending path north-west. After reaching "the trash beach" (If you want to feel better about it take a big trash bag with you and collect some bottles) continue to the left along the shoreline. Walking time: 20 minutes.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
On the BeachLocated 50m to the left of the main wall, behind the ruins on the beach. | ||||||||
2 |
★★ 3 Generations
Equip: Thomas Jekel, Sandra Jekel & M Hensel, 2014 | 6a+ | 18m | |||||
3 |
Pieks
Equip: Thomas Jekel, Sandra Jekel & M Hensel, 2014 | 6a | 18m | |||||
Main Wall | ||||||||
5 |
★ Starfish
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 5a | 22m | |||||
6 |
★ Sailor
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 6a | 23m | |||||
7 |
★ Goat Memorial
Equip: Thomas Jekel & Sandra Jekel, 2011 | 5b | 25m, 8 | |||||
8 |
★ Sea Urchin
Equip: Ute Friedrich, Joachim Friedrich, Gunter Hommel & Antje Lehmann, 2013 | 6a | 20m, 6 | |||||
9 |
★★ Family Business
Equip: Thomas Jekel & Sandra Jekel, 2011 | 5b | 25m, 8 | |||||
10 |
★ Suite
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009 | 5c+ | 30m, 9 | |||||
11 |
★★ Piero & Angela
Advertencia Flora y Fauna: Birds nesting in the route to the left ... Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009 | 6a | 30m, 11 | |||||
12 |
★★ Ciuccia Bau
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009 | 6b | 30m, 11 | |||||
13 |
★ One Year
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009 | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
14 |
★ Rocco Family
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009 | 6c+ | 24m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Apollo's Miracle
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2010 | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Elizabeth
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009 | 7b | 25m | |||||
17 |
★★★ Four Years
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2011 | 7c | 20m | |||||
18 |
★★ Material Man
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2010 | 7a+ | 18m | |||||
19 |
★ Where Are My Bolts?
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2012 | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
20 |
★ Levante
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2012 | 6b | 20m | |||||
21 |
Bronchitos
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2013 | 6a | 18m | |||||
22 |
★ Sweet Remy
A short slab on good rock but with a technical crux. Equip: Zio Tibia, 2013 | 5a | 15m | |||||
23 |
★ Blue Lagoon
Equip: Falk Heinicke, Cathleen Heinicke, Anett Riemer, I Haberstreit & S Haberstreit, 2012 | 5b | 25m | |||||
24 |
Nixe
Equip: Christine Fiedler & Falk Heinicke, 2018 | 5b | 22m | |||||
25 |
Krabbe
Equip: Christine Fiedler & Falk Heinicke, 2018 | 6a | 22m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Far RightLocated 50m to the right of the main wall, behind a big boulder. | ||||||||
27 |
★★ Tomboy
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2013 | 6c | 25m | |||||
28 |
★★ Karpouzi
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2013 | 5c+ | 20m | |||||
29 |
★★★ Octopus Crack
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Missing hanger & old rusty quicklinks Equip: Hannes Webhofer & Elena Ovchinnikova, 2014 | 7b+ | 35m | |||||
30 |
★★ Flying Fish
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2014 | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
31 |
★★ Peponi
A nice traverse and crack. Not so easy to remove the quickdraws, though. Equip: Zio Tibia, 2013 | 6a | 20m |