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Table of contents
- 1.
Skalia
313 in Area
- 1.1. Skalia Pillar 27 in Sector
- 1.2. Hotel California 11 in Sector
- 1.3. Skalia Balcony 13 in Sector
- 1.4. Skalia Cave 18 in Sector
- 1.5. Aegean Islands 20 in Sector
- 1.6. Ghost Kitchen 65 in Sector
- 1.7. Atlantis 20 in Sector
- 1.8. Utopia 26 in Sector
- 1.9. Cave 41 in Sector
- 1.10. Sevasti 20 in Sector
- 1.11. Galatianí 41 in Sector
- 1.12. Black Forest 11 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Skalia 313 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 37.036328, 26.955846
- PREPARE to leave nothing behind (trashbag, etc).
- Use your own gear for toproping. Use fixed gear only for lowering. (See first section of guidebook for details.)
- Minimize single-use plastic. No recycling on the island (yet).
- Use established paths and close gates behind you.
- Consider a donation to the rescue team (red boxes).
Resumen
The area of Skalia includes some of the best areas of Kalymnos. For example the cave of "Ghost Kitchen" with it's incredible diagonal stalactites and technical slabs.
Ética
 |
1.1. Skalia Pillar 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.038613, 26.957054
descripción
In the shade until 12:00.
Acceso
Note that the approach to Skalia has changed. The old approach from the Palionisos road has been closed by the land owner.
From Masouri, drive past Arginonta and continue on the coastal road for about 2 km. Park at a slight lefthand turn, just before the first buildings of Skalia, where a small concrete road leads uphill to the right and a white pillar marks the sector 'Seaside Kitchen', a historical name for 'Ghost Kitchen' (37.0339134, 26.9577831).
Walk up the small road until it turns to the left. Cross the small riverbed to the right and follow the trail marked by red paint marks. After 2 minutes, the trail crosses a dirt road. Turn left, following cairns and yellow paint marks. When you are just below 'Skalia Cave',
take the leftmost trail that traverses along the hill. Pass below sector 'Hotel California' and continue uphill along the base of the cliff.
Alternatively, from the left side of 'Ghost Kitchen', traverse left for another 15-20 minutes.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Koutouzis
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
| 2 |
★★ Koutouzis Ext
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 7a | 35m | |||
| 3 |
★ Fakir Plaisir
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 6c | 35m | |||
| 4 |
★ Razor Edge
Equip: Claude Remy, Christine Remy & Yves Remy, 2003 | 6b | 33m | |||
| 5 |
★ Sea, Sun & Pain
Equip: Claude Remy, Christine Remy & Yves Remy, 2003 | 7b+ | 33m | |||
| 6 |
★★ Stone Dead Forever
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 7b+ | 35m | |||
| 7 |
★★★ The Orange Grove
Equip: Jon de Montjoye & Hilary de Montjoye, 2003 | 7a+ | 30m | |||
| 8 |
★★★ Kaly Magic
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 7a | 36m | |||
| 9 |
★★★ Kaly Minogue
Equip: Claude Remy, Christine Remy & Yves Remy, 2003 | 6c | 35m | |||
| 10 |
★★ Kaly Dream
Equip: Claude Remy, Christine Remy & Yves Remy, 2003 | 6c | 33m | |||
| 11 |
★★ Kalytaly
Equip: Claude Idoux & Luca Salsotto, 2009 | 6c | 35m | |||
| 12 |
★★ Captain Koymantaros
Equip: Claude Remy, Christine Remy & Yves Remy, 2003 | 6c | 33m | |||
| 13 |
★★ The Snow Must Go On
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 6b | 35m | |||
| 14 |
★★ Zymoto
Equip: Claude Remy, Christine Remy, Yves Remy & George Hatzismalis, 2010 | 6b | 32m | |||
| 15 |
Zymoto Extension
The wall will small pockets an a short crux PA: Claude & Yves Remy, 2010 | 6b | ||||
| 16 |
★★ Big Merci
Equip: Claude Remy, Christine Remy & Yves Remy, 2003 | 6b | 32m | |||
| 17 |
★★ Fegafjyva
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
| 18 |
★★ Fegafjyva Ext
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 6c | 30m | |||
| 19 |
★ Tealhamas
Equip: Claude Remy, Christine Remy & Yves Remy, 2003 | 6a+ | 30m | |||
| 20 |
★ Mamas Reporter
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Loose rock ? Equip: Claude Remy, Christine Remy & Yves Remy, 2003 | 5c | 30m | |||
| 21 |
★ Eat the Rich
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6a+ | 22m | |||
| 22 |
★★ 7c+
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 5c+ | 22m | |||
| 23 |
★ Tandori Love
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
| 24 |
★ Callas
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
| 25 |
★ Video Clip
Equip: Claude Remy, Christine Remy & Yves Remy, 2003 | 5c+ | 20m | |||
| 26 |
★ Run Around Splits
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 5c+ | 20m | |||
| 27 |
★ Egeo TV
Equip: Claude Remy, Christine Remy & Yves Remy, 2003 | 5c | 20m | |||
1.2. Hotel California 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.037425, 26.958809
descripción
In the shade until 11:00 (left) to 12:00 (right).
Acceso
Note that the approach to Skalia has changed. The old approach from the Palionisos road has been closed by the land owner.
From Masouri, drive past Arginonta and continue on the coastal road for about 2 km. Park at a slight lefthand turn, just before the first buildings of Skalia, where a small concrete road leads uphill to the right and a white pillar marks the sector 'Seaside Kitchen', a historical name for 'Ghost Kitchen' (37.0339134, 26.9577831).
Walk up the small road until it turns to the left. Cross the small riverbed to the right and follow the trail marked by red paint marks. After 2 minutes, the trail crosses a dirt road. Turn left, following cairns and yellow paint marks. When you are just below 'Skalia Cave',
take the leftmost trail that traverses along the hill and passes just below 'Hotel California'.
Alternatively, from the left side of 'Ghost Kitchen', traverse left for another 10-15 minutes.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Eagle
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 5b | 24m | |||||
| 2 |
★ Noserl
Equip: Sandra Jekel & Thomas Jekel, 2011 | 5a | 25m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Morro
Equip: Sandra Jekel & Thomas Jekel, 2011 | 5b | 25m | |||||
| 4 |
Spooky
Equip: Sandra Jekel, Thomas Jekel, Rebecca Blaser & Martin Blattmann, 2010 | 4c | 22m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Jim
Equip: Sandra Jekel, Thomas Jekel, Rebecca Blaser & Martin Blattmann, 2010 | 5c | 22m | |||||
| 6 |
★ Stately Pleasure Dome
Equip: Sandra Jekel, Thomas Jekel, Rebecca Blaser & Martin Blattmann, 2010 | 5c | 22m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Love and Haight
Equip: Sandra Jekel, Thomas Jekel, Rebecca Blaser & Martin Blattmann, 2010 | 6a+ | 22m | |||||
| 8 |
★ Quarter Dome
Equip: Sandra Jekel, Thomas Jekel, Rebecca Blaser & Martin Blattmann, 2010 | 5b | 25m | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Tuolumne Knobs
Equip: Sandra Jekel, Thomas Jekel, Rebecca Blaser & Martin Blattmann, 2010 | 5a | 25m | |||||
| 10 |
★ Les Blablas
Equip: Sandra Jekel, Thomas Jekel, Rebecca Blaser & Martin Blattmann, 2010 | 6a | 20m | |||||
| 11 |
★ Moitié-Moitié
Equip: Sandra Jekel, Thomas Jekel, Rebecca Blaser & Martin Blattmann, 2010 | 5c+ | 20m | |||||
 |
||||||||
1.3. Skalia Balcony 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.037177, 26.959391
descripción
Nice crag between sectors 'Skalia Pillar' and 'Ghost Kitchen' to the right and above sector 'Hotel California'. Mostly wall climbing on nice sculpted rock.
In the shade until 11:00.
Acceso
Note that the approach to Skalia has changed. The old approach from the Palionisos road has been closed by the land owner.
From Masouri, drive past Arginonta and continue on the coastal road for about 2 km. Park at a slight lefthand turn, just before the first buildings of Skalia, where a small concrete road leads uphill to the right and a white pillar marks the sector 'Seaside Kitchen', a historical name for 'Ghost Kitchen' (37.0339134, 26.9577831).
Walk up the small road until it turns to the left. Cross the small riverbed to the right and follow the trail marked by red paint marks. After 2 minutes, the trail crosses a dirt road. Turn left, following cairns and yellow paint marks. When you are just below 'Skalia Cave',
continue straight to the grey slab to the left of the cave.
Alternatively, from the left side of 'Ghost Kitchen', traverse left for another 10 minutes.
Historia
Fully bolted by Claude Idoux.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ L'Abri-Côtine
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c+ | 40m, 20 | |||
| 2 |
★★★ La P'tite Arvine
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c | 40m, 18 | |||
| 3 |
★★ La Moussa Kaka
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c+ | 40m, 18 | |||
| 4 |
★★ La Fêta Pipi
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6b | 34m | |||
| 5 |
★★ Double Salchow
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c | 40m, 16 | |||
| 6 |
★★ 1512
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6a | 30m | |||
| 7 |
★★ Haute Pierre
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6a+ | 34m | |||
| 8 |
★★ Gelleretti
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6a | 24m | |||
| 9 |
★★ Singha
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6a | 30m | |||
| 10 |
★★ Chang
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6a | 26m | |||
| 11 |
★★ Leo
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6a | 26m | |||
| 12 |
★★ Kô-Tao
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6a | 25m | |||
| 13 |
★★ Lune de Miel
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6b+ | 38m, 20 | |||
1.4. Skalia Cave 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.037066, 26.960549
descripción
Competition crag of The North Face Festival 2013.
In the shade until 13:00.
Acceso
Note that the approach to Skalia has changed. The old approach from the Palionisos road has been closed by the land owner.
From Masouri, drive past Arginonta and continue on the coastal road for about 2 km. Park at a slight lefthand turn, just before the first buildings of Skalia, where a small concrete road leads uphill to the right and a white pillar marks the sector 'Seaside Kitchen', a historical name for 'Ghost Kitchen' (37.0339134, 26.9577831).
Walk up the small road until it turns to the left. Cross the small riverbed to the right and follow the trail marked by red paint marks. After 2 minutes, the trail crosses a dirt road. Turn left, following cairns and yellow paint marks. Just below the obvious cave, take the rightmost trail and walk/scramble up along the base of the cliff.
Alternatively, from the left side of 'Ghost Kitchen', traverse left for another 10 minutes and scramble up to the cave.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ The Fridge
Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 7b+ | 18m | |||
| 2 |
★ The Oven
Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 7b+ | 18m | |||
| 3 |
★★★ Sweet Balls
Women's competition route of the 2013 climbing festival. Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 8b | 40m | |||
| 4 |
★★ Indar Gorri
Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 7c+ | 40m | |||
| 5 |
★★ Shoot
Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 7c | 12m | |||
| 6 |
★★★ Don't Call Me Greasy
Men's competition route of the 2013 climbing festival. Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 8b | 12m | |||
| 7 |
★★ Don't Cry 'Til It's Over
Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 7c+ | 14m | |||
| 8 |
★★ The Hesitaters
Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 7c+ | 25m | |||
| 9 |
★★★ Klesha
Men's competition route of the 2013 climbing festival. PA: Alex Megos, 2013 Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 8c+ | 35m | |||
| 10 |
★★★ Match Point
Women's competition route of the 2013 climbing festival. Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 8b | 33m | |||
| 11 |
★★ The Alchemist
Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 7b | 33m | |||
| 12 |
★★ Do First, Talk Later
Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 7b+ | 33m | |||
| 13 |
★★ Skin On My Left
Women's competition route of the 2013 climbing festival. Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 8a | 40m | |||
| 14 |
★★ The Unexpected Journey
Men's competition route of the 2013 climbing festival. Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 8a | 38m | |||
| 15 |
★★ Don't Touch My Balls
Men's competition route of the 2013 climbing festival. Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 8b | 35m | |||
| 16 |
★★ KFC
Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 7c+ | 35m | |||
| 17 |
★★ Le Jeu des Perfes de Verre
Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 7c+ | 35m | |||
| 18 |
★★★ Banana Party
Women's competition route of the 2013 climbing festival. Equip: Jacopo Larcher, Hansjörg Auer †, Iker Pou & Siebe van Hee, 2013 | 8a+ | 35m | |||
1.5. Aegean Islands 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.034894, 26.962906
descripción
A new crag above Ghost Kitchen equipped by Hot Roc. Very nice long routes between 5b and 6c.
In the shade until 13:30.
Acceso
From Masouri, drive past Arginonta and continue on the coastal road for about 2 km. Park at a slight lefthand turn, just before the first buildings of Skalia, where a small concrete road leads uphill to the right and a white pillar marks the sector 'Seaside Kitchen', a historical name for 'Ghost Kitchen' (37.0339134, 26.9577831).
Walk up the small road until it turns to the left. Cross the small riverbed to the right and follow the trail marked by red paint marks. After about 10 minutes, you arrive at the lower right hand side of 'Ghost Kitchen'. Continue uphill to the left end of the sector and scramble across some blocks to get around the corner. You will see the wall above you. Walking time: 30 minutes.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Arki
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 5b | 20m | |||||
| 2 |
★ Arki Ext
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 6c+ | 32m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Samos
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 6b+ | 32m | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Nisyros
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 6b | 28m | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ Patmos
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 6b | 32m | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Leros
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 6a+ | 32m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Kalymnos
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 5c | 32m, 13 | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Kos
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 6a | 35m | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Telendos
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 6a | 32m | |||||
| 10 |
★★★ Rhodos
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 6a+ | 35m | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Tilos
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 5b+ | 28m | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Pserimos
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2021 | 5c+ | 27m | |||||
| 13 |
★★ Halki
Equip: Hervé Rondeau, 2021 | 6c | ||||||
| 14 |
★★ Santorini
Equip: Hervé Rondeau, 2021 | 6b | 36m, 17 | |||||
| 15 |
★★ Fourni
Equip: Hervé Rondeau, 2021 | 6b | 37m | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Kastellorizo
Very nice route. Sustained climbing. The length of the route and the rope drag make it a 6c+. 70m Rope is ok, if you downclimb the last few meters. Equip: Hervé Rondeau, 2021 | 6c+ | 37m, 19 | |||||
| 17 |
★★★ Aghatonisi
Splendid! Equip: Hervé Rondeau, 2021 | 6a+ | 35m, 15 | |||||
| 18 |
★★★ Simy
Equip: Hervé Rondeau, 2021 | 6b | 30m, 15 | |||||
| 19 |
★★★ Ikaria
Equip: Hervé Rondeau, 2021 | 6b+ | 37m | |||||
| 20 |
★★★ Lipsi
Equip: Hervé Rondeau, 2021 | 6b | 26m | |||||
1.6. Ghost Kitchen 65 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.033741, 26.961782
descripción
Good climbing on grey slabs and orange vertical wall. In the cave, some nice overhanging tufas.
In the shade until 13:00 (left) to 14:00 (right).
Acceso
From Masouri, drive past Arginonta and continue on the coastal road for about 2 km. Park at a slight lefthand turn, just before the first buildings of Skalia, where a small concrete road leads uphill to the right and a white pillar marks the sector 'Seaside Kitchen', a historical name for 'Ghost Kitchen' (37.0339134, 26.9577831).
Walk up the small road until it turns to the left. Cross the small riverbed to the right and follow the trail marked by red paint marks. After about 10 minutes, you arrive at the lower right hand side of the crag.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Left Wall | ||||||||
| 2 |
★★ Hour of Ghosts
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Günter Hommel, 2006 | 6a | 25m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Exotic Ambeli
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6a | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Route 66
Tough and steep start, then easier slab climbing. Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6a+ | 25m, 13 | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Pirates of Kalymnos
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ N7
Technical face climbing with a mandatory reachy crux move. Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 7a | 26m, 13 | |||||
| 7 |
★★★ Haunted Castle
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Günter Hommel, 2006 | 7a+ | 26m | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Le Type de la Taverne
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2013 | 6c | 20m | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Le Type de la Taverne Ext
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 7a | 35m | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Le Mythe de la Caverne
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois & Isabelle Bourgeois, 2009 | 6c+ | 32m | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Czech Spirit
Equip: Jaromír Tišer, 2020 | 7a+ | 32m | |||||
| 12 |
★★★ Resista
A long, pocketed wall. Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 6c | 35m | |||||
| 13 |
★★★ Globus
A hard slab on the orange-grey wall, requiring good footwork. Then sustained and steep climbing on good pockets. Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 7a | 35m, 13 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 14 |
★★★ Joy in the Garden
Brilliant long climb on good holds. Equip: Henry Bartu, Andreas Odermatt, Urs Neu & Andrea Neiger, 2001 | 6a+ | 25m, 13 | |||||
| 15 |
★★ Absent Friends
Equip: Dave Musgrove, Keith Morgan & Dave Campbell, 2007 | 6a | 25m | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Seaside
Not a perfect line but still a good slab climb. Equip: Claude Idoux, 2011 | 5c | 25m | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Weissmatten
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2011 | 5c | 25m | |||||
| 18 |
★ 5 Ans Après
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2014 | 5c | 25m | |||||
| 19 |
Bali Balo
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2014 | 5b+ | 18m | |||||
| 20 |
★★ Little Speed Swann
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2022 | 6a | 28m | |||||
| 21 |
★★ Taverna Psiri
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2008 | 6b | 27m | |||||
| 22 |
★★ Pic Pic
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2008 | 6b | 30m, 12 | |||||
| 23 |
★★ Baldwin
Equip: Falk Heinicke, Cavin Riemer & Anett Riemer, 2008 | 6b | 30m | |||||
| 24 |
★★ Olympiakos for Elias
Equip: Bruno Fara & Renée Guerin, 2008 | 6b+ | 33m, 15 | |||||
| 25 |
★★ Rombo di Tuono
Old-school technical climbing on compact grey rock. Crux with hidden holds. Keep going! Equip: Luca Salsotto & Piero Bertotto, 2014 | 7a | 37m, 16 | |||||
| 26 |
★★ Rigani
Equip: Guy Albert, 2001 | 6c | 90m, 3 | |||||
Main Wall | ||||||||
| 28 |
★★ Thribi
Equip: Guy Albert, 2001 | 6c | 30m | |||||
| 29 |
★★ Talon
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 6a | 15m | |||||
| 30 |
Achilles
Equip: Henry Bartu, Andreas Odermatt, Urs Neu & Andrea Neiger, 2001 | 5c+ | 15m, 8 | |||||
| 31 |
★★★ Achilles Ext
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 7a+ | 32m | |||||
| 32 |
★★★ Durgol
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 7b | 35m | |||||
| 33 |
★★★ Sisyphus Junior
Delightful climbing on flowstone and broccoli but a punchy, technical crux. Equip: Henry Bartu, Andreas Odermatt, Urs Neu & Andrea Neiger, 2001 | 7a+ | 25m, 11 | |||||
| 34 |
★★★ Sisyphus Junior Ext
Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Felix Meier, 1999 | 7b | 30m | |||||
| 35 |
★★★ Ghost Rider
Pumpy and engaging tufa and mono-tufa action to the juggy rooflet and a very thin and beta-intensive final headwall. Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos & Simon Montmory, 2010 | 7b+ | 38m | |||||
| 36 |
★★★ Totenhansel
Pumpy and consistent on blobs, pinches and other, bigger flowstone features. Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Felix Meier, 1999 | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
| 37 |
★★ Super Totenhansel
2010 guidebook lists this as the extension from the Totenhansel anchors to the Sisyphus Junior Ext anchors. This may now be confusing with Ghost Rider that cuts straight up through the middle Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Felix Meier, 1999 | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
| 38 |
★★★ Remember Wadi Rum
Juggy tufas and a special crux. Hard to onsight. Equip: Henry Bartu, Andreas Odermatt, Urs Neu & Andrea Neiger, 2001 | 6c/c+ | 25m, 8 | |||||
| 39 |
★★★ Dafni
A great journey over several big tufa mushrooms, involving your entire body. Bolting is quite sparse. Be gentle with the tufas and clean on toprope! Equip: Guy Albert, Olivier Didon, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001 | 6c+ | 30m, 9 | |||||
| 40 |
★★ Dafni Ext
Equip: Neil Gresham, 2010 | 8c | 37m | |||||
| 41 |
★★ Fantasma
Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos & Simon Montmory, 2010 | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
| 42 |
★★ Elia
Equip: Guy Albert, Olivier Didon, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001 | 7b | 30m, 8 | |||||
| 43 |
★★★ Thimari
Equip: Guy Albert, Olivier Didon, Lionel Catsoyannis & Paola Pezzini, 2001 | 7a | 30m, 8 | |||||
| 44 |
★★★ Ioli
An awkward crux at the start leads up to tufa-land with big tufas and organpipes. Hard exit over the bulge right before the anchor. Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 7a | 30m, 12 | |||||
| 45 |
★★★ Axium
Ideally clean the route on top rope. Doing this will avoid the rope to swing into the tufa saddle while cleaning. Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 6c+ | 30m | |||||
| 46 |
★ Delta
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Worn carabiner on the anchor The first half is more of an approach towards a short but intense crux section on tufa features. Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 6a+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
Right Wall | ||||||||
| 48 |
★ Kalyminette
Equip: Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2010 | 6c | 40m | |||||
| 49 |
★★ Tchao Regina
Equip: Bruno Fara & Renée Guerin, 2011 | 6b | 36m | |||||
| 50 |
★ Au Revoir
Equip: Andreas Vizeli & Roland Hammann, 2009 | 6a | 35m, 14 | |||||
| 51 |
★ Casimir
Equip: Nicolas Szawrowski, 2012 | 5a | 20m | |||||
| 52 |
★ Myrthe
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Florian Friedrich & Ute Friedrich, 2004 | 6a | 22m | |||||
| 53 |
★★ Parasitos
Equip: Patrick Müller & Annemarie Boder, 2003 | 6a+ | 18m | |||||
| 54 |
★★ Zyklop
Challenging technical slab climbing with delicate footwork. Sandbag! Equip: Hans Peter Bartens & Klaus Hildenbrand, 1999 | 6a+ | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 55 |
★★★ Persephone
Brilliant slab with lots of thin technical moves. Hard for the grade. Equip: Patrick Müller & Annemarie Boder, 2003 | 6b | 28m, 12 | |||||
| 56 |
★★ Lothar
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Gunter Hommel & Florian Friedrich, 2005 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
| 57 |
★ Serena
An easy slab leads to trickier overhanging tufas. Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 6b+ | 25m, 8 | |||||
| 58 |
★★ 2046
Equip: Ursula Rutsch & Gérald Buchs, 2006 | 6c+ | 20m, 10 | |||||
Far Right Slabs | ||||||||
| 60 |
★★★ Tahar ta Gueule
Equip: Luca Salsotto & Claude Idoux, 2011 | 7a | 38m, 13 | |||||
| 61 |
★★ Hara Kiri
Equip: Luca Salsotto & Claude Idoux, 2011 | 6c+ | 40m, 13 | |||||
| 62 |
★★ 7 à C
Very consistent technical climbing through a couple of slabby corners with surprisingly good holds. Equip: Luca Salsotto & Claude Idoux, 2011 | 6c+ | 38m, 11 | |||||
| 63 |
★★ A.C. d'Essais
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2011 | 6c | 38m, 11 | |||||
| 64 |
★★★ Pourquoi Paniquer?
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2011 | 6c+ | 40m | |||||
| 65 |
★★ L'Ange et le Bac
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2011 | 6c | 40m | |||||
| 66 |
★★ Zyva
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2011 | 6b | 40m | |||||
| 67 |
★★ Oh my Gosh!
Pleasant slabbing, watch your rope length. Equip: Claude Idoux, 2011 | 6a+ | 37m, 14 | |||||
| 68 |
★ Sacray's Price
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2011 | 6a | 32m, 14 | |||||
| 69 |
★★ Witch
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Günter Hommel, 2012 | 6a+ | 33m | |||||
1.7. Atlantis 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.032884, 26.961315
descripción
Atlantis is a new sub-sector on compact slabs with some sharp holds to the right of 'Ghost Kitchen'.
Acceso
From Masouri, drive past Arginonta and continue on the coastal road for about 2 km. Park at a slight lefthand turn, just before the first buildings of Skalia, where a small concrete road leads uphill to the right and a white pillar marks the sector 'Seaside Kitchen', a historical name for 'Ghost Kitchen' (37.0339134, 26.9577831).
Walk up the small road until it turns to the left. Cross the small riverbed to the right and follow the trail marked by red paint marks. Just before arriving at the right end of 'Ghost Kitchen', turn right and up along a faint path and continue to the base of the grey slab on your left. Walking time: 18 minutes.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Atlantide
Advertencia Roca: Potentially loose flake! Equip: Thierry Bionda & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 6a | 37m | |||
| 2 |
★ Attentat au Prusik
Equip: Thierry Bionda & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 5a | 17m | |||
| 3 |
★★ Les Colonnes d'Hercule
Equip: Bionda Thierry & Lemrich Christian, 2017 | 6b | 35m, 19 | |||
| 4 |
★★ Stanlay Lubric
Equip: Thierry Bionda & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 5b | 20m | |||
| 5 |
★★ Kalymiti J'Aime
Equip: Thierry Bionda & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 6a | 20m | |||
| 6 |
★★ Antinea
Equip: Thierry Bionda & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 6b | 20m, 10 | |||
| 7 |
★★ La Brune Optimale
Equip: Thierry Bionda & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 5c | 22m | |||
| 8 |
★ Lardonnez Nous
Equip: Thierry Bionda & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 6a | 20m, 10 | |||
| 9 |
★★ Les Deux Choux Chics
Equip: Thierry Bionda & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 6a+ | 25m, 11 | |||
| 10 |
Plat Tonique
Equip: Thierry Bionda & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 6a | 30m | |||
| 11 |
★★ Helvetes Underground
Equip: Thierry Bionda & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 6a+ | 25m, 10 | |||
| 12 |
Salle d'Atlante
Equip: Thierry Bionda & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 5c | 18m, 8 | |||
| 13 |
★ Klepto
Equip: Maiwenn Jornod & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 6a | 20m | |||
| 14 |
★★ Cosa Nostra
Equip: Bruno Fara & Renée Guerin, 2017 | 6b | 27m | |||
| 15 |
★ Amadou
Equip: Maiwenn Jornod & Christian Lemrich, 2017 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
| 16 |
★★ Tartufobe
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2017 | 6a | 20m, 11 | |||
| 17 |
★★ Volez Petits
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2017 | 6a | 30m | |||
| 18 |
★★ Wurm
Advertencia Roca: Loose rocks Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Ute Friedrich, 2018 | 5a | 26m | |||
| 19 |
★ Little Man
Equip: Dirk Hommel, Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 2018 | 5b | 24m, 9 | |||
| 20 |
★★ Vincent
Equip: Dirk Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 2018 | 5a+ | 25m, 8 | |||
1.8. Utopia 26 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.032393, 26.960592
descripción
In the shade until 14:00 (right) to 16:30 (cave).
Acceso
From Masouri, drive past Arginonta and continue on the coastal road for about 2 km. Park at a slight lefthand turn, just before the first buildings of Skalia, where a small concrete road leads uphill to the right and a white pillar marks the sector 'Seaside Kitchen', a historical name for 'Ghost Kitchen' (37.0339134, 26.9577831).
Walk up the small road until it turns to the left. Cross the small riverbed to the right and follow the trail marked by red paint marks. Just before arriving at the right end of 'Ghost Kitchen', turn right and up along a faint path. Pass sector 'Atlantis' on your left and continue towards to obvious cave. To enter the belay ledge of the cave, scramble up along a fixed rope on the left side.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Keravnos
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 7c | 12m | |||
| 2 |
★★★ Ça et Là
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 7b+ | 15m | |||
| 3 |
Gravity Game
Equip: Giovanni Bettoschi, 2017 | 7b+ | 15m | |||
| 4 |
★★★ Tip Top
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 7b | 15m | |||
| 5 |
Zuaya
Grade not yet established. Equip: Giovanni Bettoschi, 2017 | 7a - c | 12m | |||
| 6 |
★★ Wrestling with a Goat
Equip: Giovanni Bettoschi, 2017 | 7b+ | 12m | |||
| 7 |
Better When It’s Hard
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 7b+ | 12m | |||
| 8 |
Better When It’s Hard Ext
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 40m | ||||
| 9 |
★★ Speedo Man
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 7b | 12m | |||
| 10 |
Tzitziki
Equip: Giovanni Bettoschi, 2017 | 7c | 38m | |||
| 11 |
★★ Super Psyched
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
| 12 |
Super Psyched Ext
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 8a | 35m | |||
| 13 |
★★ Use Your Feet
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 6c | 25m | |||
| 14 |
★★ Use Your Feet Ext
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 7b | 45m | |||
| 15 |
Forgetful Bolter
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 6c+ | 25m | |||
| 16 |
Forgetful Bolter Ext
Unfinished extension (2023). Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 40m | ||||
| 17 |
★★ Use Your Brain
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 6c | 15m | |||
| 18 |
★ Tranquille Sur Mon Île
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 7a | 14m | |||
| 19 |
Muscle, Sweat and Blood
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 7b+ | 12m | |||
| 20 |
Don’t Follow
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 8a | 10m | |||
| 21 |
Learn to Disobey
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 8c | 10m | |||
| 22 |
★ Learn to Lead
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 7a | 10m | |||
| 23 |
Kikirikiki
Grade not yet confirmed (2023). Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 7c | 25m | |||
| 24 |
Move to Hill
Grade not yet confirmed (2023). Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 8a+ | 35m | |||
| 25 |
The Wall
Grade not yet confirmed (2023). Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 8b+ | 25m | |||
| 26 |
★★ Trikimia
Equip: Simon Montmory, 2018 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
1.9. Cave 41 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.030432, 26.958876
descripción
In the shade until 12:00 (walls) to 14:00 (cave).
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Far Left | ||||||||
| 2 |
★★ Rifugio Bozano
Equip: Luca Salsotto & Marco Quaglia, 2013 | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
| 3 |
Pocket Rocket
Equip: Mike Reed, 2019 | 7a | 20m | |||||
| 4 |
Boh
To pass the direct crux at the top, move right into 'Buon Giorno' and traverse back to the anchor. Equip: Luca Salsotto & Marco Quaglia, 2013 Mant: Mike Reed, 2019 | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
| 5 |
Boh (Direct)
Finish straight up along the blue bolts instead of moving right into 'Buon Giorno'. Equip: Luca Salsotto & Marco Quaglia, 2013 Mant: Mike Reed, 2019 | 7c | 20m | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Buon Giorno
Nice warm up for this sector. Equip: Luca Salsotto & Marco Quaglia, 2013 | 6c | 20m | |||||
Upper | ||||||||
| 8 |
★ Playground
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2010 | 6b | 16m | |||||
| 9 |
★★★ Slide
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2010 | 4a | 21m | |||||
| 10 |
Dodgem
Equip: Andy Hedgecock, 2016 | 5b+ | 25m | |||||
| 11 |
★ Zicke
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Gunter Hommel & Florian Friedrich, 2005 | 6b+ | 18m | |||||
| 12 |
★★★ Olympics 776 B.C.
Equip: Sven Welich & Jaqueline Welich, 2004 | 6b | 18m | |||||
| 13 |
★ Red Monkey
Equip: Florian Friedrich, Gunter Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 2005 | 7a | 15m | |||||
| 14 |
★ White Snake
Equip: Sven Welich & Jaqueline Welich, 2004 | 6a | 15m | |||||
| 15 |
★ White Mouse
Equip: Sven Welich & Jaqueline Welich, 2004 | 6a+ | 18m | |||||
| 16 |
★ Grey Chilli
Equip: Sven Welich & Jaqueline Welich, 2004 | 5c+ | 18m | |||||
| 17 |
★ Thyme Honey
Equip: Sven Welich & Jaqueline Welich, 2004 | 5c | 18m | |||||
| 18 |
★★★ Olympics 2004
Equip: Sven Welich & Jaqueline Welich, 2004 | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
Main | ||||||||
| 20 |
Addictovid
Equip: Hervé Rondeau, 2020 | 6c | 20m | |||||
| 21 |
★★ Sam
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2007 | 6c | 25m | |||||
| 22 |
★ Legolas
Equip: Sven Welich & Jaqueline Welich, 2004 | 5c | 18m | |||||
| 23 |
★ Aragorn
Equip: Andy Hedgecock, David Selwyn & Mike Reed, 2013 | 5b | 22m | |||||
| 24 |
★★ Pony Luz
Equip: Sven Welich & Jaqueline Welich, 2004 | 4b | 15m | |||||
| 25 |
★ 84
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2007 | 5b+ | 25m | |||||
| 26 |
★ Dios
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2007 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
| 27 |
★★ Saroman
Equip: Sven Welich & Jaqueline Welich, 2004 | 7a+ | 25m | |||||
| 28 |
★ Eirini
Equip: 1998 | 7c+ | 25m | |||||
| 29 |
★★★ Anthi
Equip: 1998 | 7c | 20m | |||||
| 30 |
★★★ Florianooulos
Equip: Florian Haas, 2001 | 7c+ | 20m | |||||
| 31 |
★★ Sascha on the Road
Equip: Florian Haas, 2001 | 7b | 20m | |||||
| 32 |
★★ Blue Eye
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Ute Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2016 | 6b | 18m | |||||
| 33 |
★★ Golden Eye
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2010 | 5c | 18m | |||||
| 34 |
★★ Per Elisabetta
Equip: Giorgio Mallucci & Elisabetta Galli, 2016 | 7a | 22m | |||||
| 35 |
Per Elisabetta Ext
Equip: Giorgio Mallucci & Elisabetta Galli, 2016 | 7a | 35m | |||||
| 36 |
★★ Zizanie
Follow the red, white and blue hangers. Equip: Claude Idoux, 2013 | 6b+ | 33m | |||||
| 37 |
★★★ Orea
Equip: Hans Weninger & friends, 2002 | 6b | 25m | |||||
| 38 |
★★ Titine
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2007 | 6b | 35m | |||||
| 39 |
Mathitis
Equip: Hans Weninger & friends, 2002 | 5b | 22m | |||||
| 40 |
★ Sto Kalo
Equip: Hans Weninger & friends, 2002 | 5b | 18m | |||||
| 41 |
Hopper
Equip: Unknown | 5b | 18m | |||||
| 42 |
★★ Cat Walk
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2010 | 6a+ | 18m | |||||
| 43 |
★ Phidias
Equip: Lena Thielmann, 2001 | 5c | 18m | |||||
| 44 |
★ Sleepwalker
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2010 | 6a | 25m | |||||
1.10. Sevasti 20 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.030146, 26.959770
descripción
Sevasti is a sector opened in 2022 right above 'Cave', featuring mostly vertical mid-grade climbs.
The huge face above (historically named Galatianí West Face) currently contains a single demanding multi-pitch.
In the shade until late afternoon, so a good option for hot days. The multi-pitch is in the shade until 14:00.
Historia
Big Face / Galatianí West Face
The route 'Keyra Maria' was opened by well known French mountain guide Pat Gabarrou and his wife Franca, bolting the first pitch a few years ago. In October 2018, the project was concluded by Pat Gabarrou and his Italian collegue Luca Salsotto. The route was opened ground up till the middle of the third pitch, then finished from the top.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Main
| ||||||||
| 2 |
Diana
Equip: Giorgio Mallucci & André Langenbach, 2022 | 6c | 34m | |||||
| 3 |
Petit Lapia
Equip: Thierry Bionda, 2022 | 6b+ | 38m | |||||
| 4 |
Apero
Equip: Luca Salsotto, 2022 | 5c | 15m | |||||
| 5 |
Bella Bionda
Equip: Luca Salsotto & Thierry Bionda, 2021 | 7a+ | 38m | |||||
| 6 |
Bella Bionda (Short)
Climb the start of 'Bella Bionda', then traverse left to the chains of 'Apero'. Equip: Luca Salsotto & Thierry Bionda, 2022 | 5c | 15m | |||||
| 7 |
Alfa
Equip: Patrick Gabarrou & Luca Salsotto, 2021 | 6b+ | 37m | |||||
| 8 |
Beta
Equip: Patrick Gabarrou & Luca Salsotto, 2021 | 7a+ | 35m | |||||
| 9 |
Kommetua
Equip: Patrick Gabarrou & Luca Salsotto, 2021 | 7a | 35m | |||||
| 10 |
Emois
Equip: Thierry Bionda, 2022 | 6c+ | 40m | |||||
| 11 |
Échec à la Reine
Equip: Thierry Bionda, 2022 | 6c | 35m | |||||
| 12 |
Diagonale du Fou
Equip: Thierry Bionda, 2022 | 6c | 35m | |||||
| 13 |
Gambit
Equip: Thierry Bionda, 2022 | 6b | 25m | |||||
| 14 |
Gambettes
Extension of 'Gambit'. The upper part is only 6a. Equip: Thierry Bionda, 2022 | 6b | 38m | |||||
| 15 |
Marshal Ombre
Equip: Thierry Bionda, 2022 | 6a+ | 35m | |||||
| 16 |
Blueberry
Equip: Thierry Bionda, 2022 | 6a+ | 24m | |||||
| 17 |
Fischi
Equip: Luca Salsotto, 2022 | 6a | 24m | |||||
| 18 |
Old Timer
Equip: Thierry Bionda, 2022 | 6b | 28m | |||||
| 19 |
Behind the Block
Equip: Thierry Bionda, 2022 | 6c | 25m | |||||
| 20 |
Fiaschi
Equip: Luca Salsotto, 2022 | 6c | 23m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Big FaceThe huge wall left of Sevasti, facing west and starting with a large overhang. Just one route, opened in 2018.
| ||||||||
| 22 |
★★★ Keyra Maria
Committing route despite its moderate difficulties, reserved to experienced climbers. Engaged rappel line! Mandatory 80m ropes. Difficult retreat from the second belay stance (clip all bolts on the way down!). From the third belay stance, one long 75m rappel or two 40m rappels reach to the ground. (The anchor is on the edge of the big overhang. From there, you will arrive on a good ledge about ten meters up the ground, one bolt in place, easy scrambling down.) Alternatively, it is possible to walk down to sector 'Ghost Kitchen' (45 to 60 min). Equip: Patrick Gabarrou, Franca Gabarrou & Luca Salsotto, 2018 | 7a+ | 200m, 5 | |||||
1.11. Galatianí 41 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.030003, 26.960982
descripción
In the shade until 11:00 (walls) to 13:00 (cave).
Acceso
Follow red and green markings left of the riverbed.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Reservoir DogsA small slab on the left, two-thirds of the way up to the main wall. Shade until 10:00. | ||||||||
| 2 |
★★ Mister White
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2015 | 5c | 20m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Mister Brown
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2015 | 6a | 20m | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Mister Black
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2015 | 6b | 22m | |||||
| 5 |
Joe
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2016 | 6c | 24m | |||||
| 6 |
Mister Blond
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2016 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Mister Pink
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2015 | 6b | 22m | |||||
| 8 |
★★ Mister Pink Ext
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2015 | 6c | 35m, 17 | |||||
| 9 |
Mister Red
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2017 | 6c | 28m | |||||
| 10 |
Reservoir Dogs
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2017 | 5c | 16m | |||||
| 11 |
Reservoir Dogs Ext
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2017 | 7a+ | 38m | |||||
| 12 |
Mister Blue
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2017 | 7a+ | 36m | |||||
| 13 |
★★ Mister Grey
Still really sharp. Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2018 | 6c+ | 36m | |||||
| 14 |
Mister Orange
Equip: Jean-Noël Bourgeois, 2018 | 6b+ | 32m | |||||
Left WallThe wall right left of the cave. Shade until 11:00. | ||||||||
| 16 |
★★ Bella
Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Michi Ochsner, 2003 | 4b+ | 25m | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Veros
Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Michi Ochsner, 2003 | 4a | 20m | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Sunrider
Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Michi Ochsner, 2003 | 6b+ | 33m | |||||
| 19 |
★★★ Crispy
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 6c+ | ||||||
| 20 |
★★ Lustzapfen
Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Michi Ochsner, 2003 | 7a | 30m | |||||
| 21 |
★★★ Wendenexpress
Two 50m ropes recommended. Not the usual Kalymnos-style bolting. Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Felix Meier & D Croth, 2002 | 7a | 140m, 5 | |||||
| 22 |
★★ Grip
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 7b | 35m | |||||
Calcite CaveThe obvious cave on the right side of the main wall. Shade until 13:00. | ||||||||
| 24 |
★★ Focus
Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Felix Meier & D Croth, 2002 | 7c | 35m | |||||
| 25 |
★★★ K44
Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Michi Ochsner, 2003 | 7a | 22m | |||||
| 26 |
★★★ Nymfi
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 7b | 30m | |||||
| 27 |
★★ Feuerdorn
Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Michi Ochsner, 2003 | 7b | 22m | |||||
| 28 |
★★★ Sueur d'Hommes
Extension of 'Feuerdorn'. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 8a | 40m | |||||
| 29 |
★★★ Debout les Morts
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 7c+ | 40m | |||||
| 30 |
★★★ Zero Chichon
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 7c+ | 40m | |||||
| 31 |
★★★ Zero Chichon Ext
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 8a | 60m | |||||
| 32 |
★★★ Gegoune
Shares the start with 'Calcite Star', then left. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 7c | 40m | |||||
| 33 |
★★★ Calcite Star
Shares the start with 'Gegoune', then straight up on the right bolt line. Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Michi Ochsner, 2003 | 7b | 27m | |||||
| 34 |
★★★ Calcite Star Plus
Extension of 'Calcite Star'. Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Ruth Ochsner & Michi Ochsner, 2003 | 7b+ | 40m | |||||
| 35 |
★★★ Kroterih
Equip: Kaspar Ochsner, Felix Meier & D Croth, 2002 | 7b | 28m | |||||
| 36 |
★★★ La Perceuse a Dede
Equip: Aubel & Saunier, 2012 | 7a | 30m | |||||
| 37 |
★★ Rognol
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 7a | 30m | |||||
| 38 |
★★ Latex
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
| 39 |
★★ Vagina
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 6c | 30m | |||||
| 40 |
★ Anal+
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
| 41 |
B2
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
| 42 |
★★ Stanouch
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 5b | 20m | |||||
| 43 |
★★★ Metaxa
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 8b | 20m | |||||
| 44 |
★ Sounet
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2006 | 5a | 20m | |||||
1.12. Black Forest 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.028862, 26.961057
descripción
In the shade until 10:00.
Acceso
Park as for Galatianí, but walk up right of the riverbed (about 15 min).
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Game
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2012 | 4c | 34m | |||
| 2 |
★★ Play
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 5b | 30m | |||
| 3 |
★★★ Dilldabbe
Equip: Gerd Tiefzer, Claudia Heinrichs & Uli Kreiss, 2002 | 5c+ | 25m | |||
| 4 |
★★ Für Betta
Equip: Luca Salsotto & Bettina Salsotto, 2011 | 6a | 25m | |||
| 5 |
★★ Eieruhr
Equip: Frank Henssler, Gerd Tiefzer, Claudia Heinrichs & Uli Kreiss, 2002 | 5c | 23m | |||
| 6 |
★★ Wunderfitz
Equip: Frank Henssler, Gerd Tiefzer, Claudia Heinrichs & Uli Kreiss, 2002 | 6a | 25m | |||
| 7 |
★★ Schneckle... Mach dir nid ins Hemd
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Fehlende Hacken Equip: Frank Henssler, Gerd Tiefzer, Claudia Heinrichs & Uli Kreiss, 2002 | 6c+ | 27m | |||
| 8 |
★★ D'Luft isch dusse
Equip: Frank Henssler, Gerd Tiefzer, Claudia Heinrichs & Uli Kreiss, 2002 | 6c+ | 28m | |||
| 9 |
★ Bragele
Equip: Frank Henssler, Gerd Tiefzer, Claudia Heinrichs & Uli Kreiss, 2002 | 6b+ | 18m | |||
| 10 |
★★ Schofsackel
Equip: Frank Henssler, Gerd Tiefzer, Claudia Heinrichs & Uli Kreiss, 2002 | 7a | 32m | |||
| 11 |
S'Mauselchen
Equip: Frank Henssler, Gerd Tiefzer, Claudia Heinrichs & Uli Kreiss, 2002 | 6c | 26m | |||
