A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jannik peta barrett niedag Radoslav Golian Luca Salsotto Eleo Feldsturm Yannick Froese EmptySoft Martin Unger
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Vathy
420 in Area
- 1.1. Swan Song 4 in Sector
-
1.2.
Pezonda 53 in Sector
- 1.2.1. Eora Cave 14 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Lemon Crumble Wall 8 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Valhalla 23 in Sector
- 1.2.4. Peanut Wall 4 in Sector
- 1.2.5. Great Escape 4 in Sector
- 1.3. Rockland 33 in Sector
- 1.4. Julian 32 in Sector
- 1.5. Je t'aime 91 in Sector
- 1.6. Milianos 16 in Sector
- 1.7. Milianos Cave 60 in Sector
- 1.8. Griffig 39 in Sector
- 1.9. E.T. 27 in Sector
- 1.10. Rina 16 in Sector
- 1.11. Vathy Fjord 14 in Sector
- 1.12. Little Eden 35 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Vathy 420 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mayormente Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 36.990684, 27.009299
- PREPARE to leave nothing behind (trashbag, etc).
- Use your own gear for toproping. Use fixed gear only for lowering. (See first section of guidebook for details.)
- Minimize single-use plastic. No recycling on the island (yet).
- Use established paths and close gates behind you.
- Consider a donation to the rescue team (red boxes).
Ética
1.1. Swan Song 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 37.007208, 26.984689
descripción
Shade after 11:00.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Swan Song
Equip: Mike Reed, 2022 PA: Mike Reed, 20 Nov 2022 | 7c | 20m | |||
2 |
★★ Distant Shores
Equip: Scott Hailstone & Mike Reed, 2022 PA: Scott Hailstone, 20 Nov 2022 | 7a | 20m | |||
3 |
★★★ Lot's Wife
Equip: Mike Reed, 2022 PA: Mike Reed, 21 Nov 2022 | 6c+ | 22m | |||
4 |
★★ Smoke me a Kipper
Equip: Mike Reed, 2022 PA: Mike Reed, 21 Nov 2022 | 6b | 25m |
1.2. Pezonda 53 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 37.003276, 27.000144
Acceso
From Masouri, drive to Arginonta and turn right onto the road towards Vathy. Continue for 3.7 km all the way to the col (37.00484, 26.99419). Take the dirt road to the left and park about 100 m further on the large open square (37.00375, 26.99428).
(20 min): Continue on the dirt road for about 50 m, until you find a trail on the right, marked by blue and red color marks (37.00364, 26.995038). After about 10 min, you'll pass a small stone wall. Continue on the trail, following cairns and color marks downhill. After scrambling down a small cliff, the trail splits (37.00270, 26.99926).
To 'Valhalla', 'Peanut Wall' and 'Great Escape': Take the trail to the left, marked by blue color marks. After about 5 min, you'll reach the first routes of 'Valhalla'. 'Peanut Wall' and 'Great Escape' are located 100 m further along the base of the cliff.
To 'Eora Cave' and 'Lemon Crumble Wall': Take the steep downhill trail to the right, marked by red color marks. After about 5 min, you'll reach to upper right routes of 'Lemon Crumble Wall'. To 'Eora Cave', continue 100 m further around the corner.
1.2.1. Eora Cave 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.001758, 26.999303
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Life is a Beach
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6a | 25m | |||
2 |
Paparazzi View
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7a | 20m | |||
3 |
★ Rooftop Yoga
Equip: Niels Abegglen & M Gerakios, 2020 | 6c | 25m | |||
4 |
Fighting and Biting
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 8a | 20m | |||
5 |
★ Game Changers
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 8a | 15m | |||
6 |
Eora Cave
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 8b+ | 20m | |||
7 |
God is a Pogo Princess
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7c+ | 20m | |||
8 |
★★★ Twin Souls
Equip: Niels Abegglen & M Foka, 2020 | 7b | 20m | |||
9 |
Saletti
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7b+ | 25m | |||
10 |
★★★ Hoppid
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7a+ | 20m | |||
11 |
★★ Mesmerized
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7a+ | 20m | |||
12 |
★★ Tartaruga Azul
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c | 18m | |||
13 |
Leoforaki
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c | 15m | |||
14 |
★★★ Cheez
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6c+ | 25m |
1.2.2. Lemon Crumble Wall 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.001861, 26.999545
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Scream
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7a | 15m, 6 | |||
2 |
Icaraizinho
New route right of 'Scream'. Name written on the wall. Grade unknown. Equip: 2023 | 25m | ||||
3 |
★★★ Fair Enough
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7a | 30m, 12 | |||
4 |
Ramba Zamba
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7b+ | 30m | |||
5 |
Into the Mystic
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7a+ | 34m | |||
6 |
★★ Mindblower
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
7 |
Mindblower Ext
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7b+ | 36m | |||
8 |
★★★ Lemon Crumble
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7b | 36m |
1.2.3. Valhalla 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.003601, 27.000286
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
So Lala
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6b+ | 20m | |||
2 |
Where is Marley?
Equip: Niels Abegglen & M Foka, 2022 | 6a+ | 22m | |||
3 |
Pina
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 5c+ | 23m | |||
4 |
★★ Zohan
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 5b | 20m, 11 | |||
5 |
★ Borat
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 5c | 25m, 14 | |||
6 |
★★ Ymir
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 7a+ | 30m, 13 | |||
7 |
★★ Thor
Equip: Hannes Webhofer & Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7c | 35m | |||
8 |
Odin
Equip: Hannes Webhofer & Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7c | 25m | |||
9 |
★★★ Valhalla
Equip: Hannes Webhofer & Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7b+ | 35m | |||
10 |
Troll
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 7b+ | 25m | |||
11 |
★★ Heidrun
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
12 |
★★ Heidrun Ext
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7a+ | 35m | |||
13 |
★★ More Than Honey
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 5c+ | 25m, 11 | |||
14 |
★★★ More Than Honey Ext
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6c | 37m, 17 | |||
15 |
★★ Misirlou
Tolle Tour mit 2 kniffligen Stellen Equip: M Glynatsis & Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6a | 25m, 14 | |||
16 |
★ Arabiata
Suche den Weg zwischen den 3 Routen, super schöne Linie Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 6a | 28m, 14 | |||
17 |
★★ Arabiata Ext 1
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7a | 37m | |||
18 |
★ Arabiata Ext 2
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7b | 47m | |||
19 |
Stoned Woman
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 5b | 25m | |||
20 |
★★★ Stoned Woman Ext (Left)
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6b+ | 45m | |||
21 |
Stoned Woman Ext (Right)
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6a+ | 45m | |||
22 |
★ Thumbs Up
Sehr scharfer Felsen Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 6b+ | 15m, 7 | |||
23 |
★★★ Orea Thea
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 5c+ | 22m, 10 |
1.2.4. Peanut Wall 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.004439, 27.000805
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Witch
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 6b | 25m | |||
2 |
Sorcerer
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 7b | 30m | |||
3 |
Hexenkessel
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7b | 25m | |||
4 |
Peanut Approach
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 4b | 15m |
1.2.5. Great Escape 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.004759, 27.001037
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Anarchy
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 8c | 30m | |||
2 |
Into the Wild
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7b+ | 20m | |||
3 |
Going West
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 6b | 23m | |||
4 |
Wild West End
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 7a | 23m |
1.3. Rockland 33 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 36.997720, 27.005154
descripción
Shade until 14:00.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Wasp
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 5c | 18m | |||
2 |
★★ Trudi
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2018 | 5a | 20m | |||
3 |
★★ Accès
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 3a | 20m | |||
4 |
★★ Mum Treck
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 5c | 20m | |||
5 |
★ Amytiville
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
6 |
★ Daddy Short Legs
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
7 |
★ GR 69
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
8 |
★ The Book of Olga
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
9 |
★ Shantaram
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
10 |
★ Class Heroes
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6c+ | 25m | |||
11 |
★ Sex Made me Stupid
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7a | 25m | |||
12 |
★★ Birgit
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6b | 25m | |||
13 |
★ Howdini
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7a+ | 30m | |||
14 |
★ Do You Want my Rectification
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7c | 30m | |||
15 |
★ Fahmîdî
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7a | 30m | |||
16 |
★ Labor Vincit
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b+ | 20m | |||
17 |
Lefteris
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b+ | 20m | |||
18 |
★ Olympic Airlines
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b | 20m | |||
19 |
★ OA 136 & 736
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b | 30m | |||
20 |
★★ Bitotest
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b+ | 30m | |||
21 |
★ Panta Psila
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7a | 33m | |||
22 |
★★★ Bokhado
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6c | 33m | |||
23 |
★ Skif the Rock
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7a | 20m | |||
24 |
★ Mikri Gata
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b+ | 20m | |||
25 |
★ Kee Man
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b | 20m | |||
26 |
★★ El Bulli
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
27 |
★ Kiss by Death
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6c | 33m | |||
28 |
★ Koukourouznick
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6c | 20m | |||
29 |
★ Koukourouznick Ext
Grade unconfirmed. Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b+ | 33m | |||
30 |
Unfinished Project
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | |||||
31 |
★ Ferran Adrià
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6b | 25m | |||
32 |
★ Beatings Will Continue
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 5c | 25m | |||
33 |
★★ Until Morale Improves
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 5b | 25m |
1.4. Julian 32 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 36.998202, 26.989762
descripción
Good crag for leading easy routes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Far Left | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ Sun Dance
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Ute Friedrich, 2017 | 5a | 40m | |||||
3 |
Schwimmnudel / Aqua Noodle
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Dirk Hommel & Gunter Hommel, Oct 2020 | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
4 |
Edwin
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Ute Friedrich, 17 Oct 2021 | 6a | 18m | |||||
5 |
Muselmann / Mussulman
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Oct 2020 | 6b | 16m | |||||
6 |
Unhold
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Oct 2020 | 6c | 15m | |||||
7 |
Trubel / Turmoil
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, 26 Oct 2021 | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
8 |
Rappel
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Oct 2020 | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
9 |
Rempler
Shares anchor with 'Rappel'. Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Oct 2020 | 5c | 15m | |||||
Left | ||||||||
11 |
★ Next
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2017 | 6a+ | 17m | |||||
12 |
★ Door
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2017 | 6a | 17m | |||||
13 |
★ Handle
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, 2017 | 5c | 17m | |||||
Main | ||||||||
15 |
★ George and Katina
Equip: Oswin Steis, 2013 | 5c | 16m | |||||
16 |
★★ Julian's First Step
Equip: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5b | 18m | |||||
17 |
★ Thanks Petra
Equip: Oswin Steis, Jürgen Rohrmann & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 6a | 18m | |||||
18 |
★ Angi
Equip: Claude Remy, Yves Remy, Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5c | 18m | |||||
19 |
★ Escorial
Equip: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5b | 18m | |||||
20 |
★★ Vathy View
Equip: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5a | 18m | |||||
21 |
★★ Hessga
Equip: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5a | 18m | |||||
22 |
★★ SVK
Equip: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 4c | 18m | |||||
23 |
★★ George Fatolitis Studio
Equip: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5b | 18m | |||||
24 |
★ Netti
Equip: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5a | 18m | |||||
25 |
Fliege
Equip: Oswin Steis, Jürgen Rohrmann & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 4b | 18m | |||||
26 |
★★ Fräse
Equip: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 4c | 18m | |||||
27 |
★ Spinner
Equip: Hans Weninger, Jeanette Weninger, Angie Hafner & Christian Schmidt, 2008 | 4a | 18m | |||||
28 |
★ Fisch
Equip: Hans Weninger, Jeanette Weninger, Angie Hafner & Christian Schmidt, 2008 | 4a | 18m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
29 |
★ PB
Equip: Hans Weninger, Jeanette Weninger, Angie Hafner & Christian Schmidt, 2008 | 5c | 20m | |||||
30 |
Clown
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Ute Friedrich, 19 Oct 2021 | 5b | 20m | |||||
31 |
Mads
same anchor with "Clown" Equip: Joachim Friedrich, 29 Oct 2021 | 5b | 20m | |||||
32 |
Zirkus
Equip: Gunter Hommel, Dirk Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 25 Oct 2021 | 5b | 20m | |||||
Right | ||||||||
34 |
Eli
Equip: Unknown, 2019 | 4a | 20m | |||||
35 |
Leichtes Ding
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Direk Hommel & Gunter Hommel, Oct 2020 | 4a | 17m | |||||
36 |
Mutzelputzel
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Dirk Hommel & Gunter Hommel, Oct 2020 | 5b | 15m |
1.5. Je t'aime 91 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 36.997693, 26.985345
descripción
The equipper of most new routes (2023) did not get a chance to climb them so they remain free projects ranging from 6a-8a. Please submit your route comments and grade suggestions to www.climbkalymnos.com. The sector is being rebolted right now (May 2023).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Left Slab | ||||||||
2 |
Amour
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 5c | 21m | |||||
3 |
Ma Cher
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Amant
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 6a+ | 21m | |||||
5 |
Snowball the Pig
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6b+ | 35m | |||||
Animal Farm | ||||||||
7 |
★★★ Küsschen
Nice long route with an alpine touch, interesting moves in the corner. Equip: Falk Heinicke & Christine Fiedler, 2021 | 6b | 35m, 17 | |||||
8 |
★★ Watch out, Cows!
Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 6b+ | 28m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Red Wales
Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 7b | 30m | |||||
10 |
★★★ Sheep on Drugs
Short, pumpy, with not an easy boulder! Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 6c | 20m | |||||
11 |
★★ Mar y Foka
Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 6b+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
12 |
★★ Kamikatsika
Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 7a | 22m | |||||
13 |
★★★ Animal Farm
Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 8a | 35m | |||||
14 |
★ Rät Päck
Nice route with an original finish. Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 5c+ | 17m | |||||
15 |
★★ Stray Cats
After a fairly uninspiring start the route comes together with the end of 'Rät Päck' and shares the original move via the hole. Then beautiful and technical moves on small, sharp holds on a vertical wall. Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 6c | 28m | |||||
16 |
Stray Cats Ext
Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 7b | 35m | |||||
17 |
★★ Barking Dogs
Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 7a+ | 17m | |||||
18 |
★★★ Save a Horse...
Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 7a | 20m | |||||
19 |
... Ride a Cowboy
Grade to be confirmed. Equip: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 8a - b | 35m | |||||
20 |
★ Katman
Left start variation of 'Kalytube'. Grade to be confirmed. Equip: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2008 | 8b - c | 35m | |||||
21 |
★★ Kalytube
Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2008 | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
22 |
★★ Katelis
Equip: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2008 | 6c | 27m | |||||
23 |
★ Cherry 1
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2012 Mant: Niels Abegglen, Jun 2023 | 5b | 22m | |||||
24 |
★★ French Kiss
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2012 | 5a+ | 19m | |||||
25 |
★★ Nice
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2012 | 5b | 25m | |||||
Arena | ||||||||
27 |
Spasiklaki
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c+ | 14m | |||||
28 |
★ Pame Quickie
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6b+ | 10m | |||||
29 |
Cyborg
Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos & Haris Orfanoudakis, 2010 | 7c+/8a | 23m | |||||
30 |
★★★ Cyborg Ext
Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos & Haris Orfanoudakis, 2010 | 8a+ | 30m | |||||
31 |
★★ Hasta la Victoria Siempre
Shares anchors with 'Cyborg'. Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 7c | 23m | |||||
32 |
Hasta la Victoria Siempre Ext
Shares anchors with 'Cyborg Ext', but climbs on a separate extension to the right. Grade to be confirmed. Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 8a+ | 30m | |||||
33 |
★★★ Air Bahal
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 8a | 33m | |||||
34 |
★★★ Tsila
Shares the last 4 bolts and anchors with 'Air Bahal'. Equip: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2010 | 7c+ | 30m | |||||
35 |
★★★ We Are the Road Crew
Some bolts added in 2020, including a direct start. Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2007 | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
36 |
★★ Heitere Bimbam
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
37 |
★★ Vas o Paraskevas
Equip: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2008 Mant: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6b+ | 24m | |||||
38 |
D'Schöh Zö Tö
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c | 14m | |||||
39 |
★★ Ça Va
Equip: Unknown | 6a | 20m | |||||
40 |
My Way
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6a+ | 24m | |||||
41 |
★★ The Bright Side of Life
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 7a+ | 25m | |||||
42 |
★★ And Now for Something Completely Different
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6b | 14m | |||||
43 |
★ And Now for Something Completely Different Ext
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c+ | 23m | |||||
44 |
★★ Make Love...
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c | 18m | |||||
45 |
...Not War
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 7a | 17m | |||||
46 |
O Erastis Sou
Equip: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2008 | 7b | 20m | |||||
47 |
Mavri Kardia
Grade to be confirmed. Equip: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2008 | 8b | 20m | |||||
48 |
★★ Voilà
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 6b+ | 22m | |||||
49 |
Baffo
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6a | 14m | |||||
50 |
Some Like it Hot
Equip: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c | 27m | |||||
51 |
★★ Lanterne
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 6b | 24m | |||||
52 |
Clan
Equip: Florian Friedrich & Joachim Friedrich, 2015 | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
53 |
Rue
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 6a+ | 27m | |||||
54 |
★ Flower
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, 2014 | 5b | 25m | |||||
55 |
Pip
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, 2015 | 5c | 25m | |||||
56 |
Cherry 2
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6a | 25m | |||||
57 |
Phönix
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 5b | 25m | |||||
58 |
Fritz
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Ute Friedrich & Gunter Hommel | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
59 |
★★ Helene
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Ute Friedrich, 2012 | 5a | 28m | |||||
60 |
★★ Flirt
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, 2014 | 4c | 24m | |||||
Right Slab | ||||||||
62 |
Petit
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 4b | 30m | |||||
63 |
Affaire
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 5a | 30m | |||||
64 |
Triole
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, Ute Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2016 | 4c | 26m | |||||
65 |
Sinistre
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 5b | 25m | |||||
66 |
Ami
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2011 | 4b | 27m | |||||
67 |
★★ Dirty Harry
Equip: Unknown, 2009 | 3c | 35m | |||||
68 |
★★ Magnum Force
Equip: Andy Hedgecock, 2012 | 4b | 33m | |||||
69 |
★★ Love Me
Equip: Kathleen Kühnel & Falk Heinicke, 2010 | 5b | 35m | |||||
70 |
Quickie
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2011 | 5a | 25m | |||||
71 |
★ Heat Wave
Equip: Andy Hedgecock, 2021 | 5a | 25m | |||||
72 |
★★ Brussels by Night
Equip: Unknown, 2009 | 5b | 25m | |||||
73 |
★★ Say You're Sorry
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 5c | 25m | |||||
74 |
★★ Nordstern
Equip: I Bonikowski, E Schubert, Anett Riemer & Falk Heinicke, 2014 | 6a | 26m | |||||
75 |
★★ 2 Spring
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2015 | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
76 |
★★ Mika
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6b | 20m | |||||
77 |
★★ Hilti Sister
Equip: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
78 |
★★★ Fat End
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6b | 18m | |||||
79 |
★★ Kiss
Equip: Joachim Friedrich, 2014 | 6a+ | 16m | |||||
80 |
★★ Rachel
Equip: Andy Hedgecock, 2014 | 4a | 20m | |||||
81 |
Missing in Action
Equip: Andy Hedgecock, 2019 | 4b | 20m | |||||
82 |
★ Grumpy Cavemen
Equip: Andy Hedgecock, 2014 | 3c | 20m | |||||
83 |
★ The Sound of the Hound
Equip: Andy Hedgecock, 2014 | 4a | 20m | |||||
84 |
Fortune
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6a | 30m | |||||
85 |
★★ Surprise
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6b | 30m | |||||
Historic RoutesRoutes were removed, changed or replaced with new routes during the 2023 rebolting. | ||||||||
87 | Tas Kebab | 40m | ||||||
88 | M & P Kuragio | 20m | ||||||
89 |
★★ Hotel Kamari
Replaced with 'Mar y Foka'. | 6c | 18m | |||||
90 | Anita | 30m | ||||||
91 | Nadir Bar | 30m | ||||||
92 | Paratragudo | 35m | ||||||
93 | Karvelopaido | |||||||
94 | Malamo | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
95 | Erotikos | |||||||
96 | MD Sport |
1.6. Milianos 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 36.998422, 26.957999
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Pan Aroma
Equip: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
2 |
★ Pan Orama
Equip: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
3 |
★★ Pan Dora
Equip: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
4 |
Damocles
Hangers have been removed until a loose flake has been cleaned. Equip: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6a | 20m | |||
5 |
★ Millonga
Equip: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
6 |
★ Madrugada
Equip: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
7 |
Karute
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6a | 25m | |||
8 |
★★ Camille
Equip: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6a | 25m | |||
9 |
★★ Claude
Equip: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6b+ | 30m | |||
10 |
★★★ Bronze Adonis
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c | 28m | |||
11 |
★★★ Kung Fu International
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6b | 28m | |||
12 |
★★ Beasley Street
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c+ | 28m | |||
13 |
★★ Majorca
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c | 22m | |||
14 |
★★★ I Don't Wanna Be Nice
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 22m | |||
15 |
★ Nothing
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c | 20m | |||
16 |
★★ Gimmix
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 20m |
1.7. Milianos Cave 60 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 37.000662, 26.957508
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
One Off
Equip: V Williams & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 4a | 12m | |||
2 |
Pant Flashyitis
Equip: V Williams & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 4a | 12m | |||
3 |
★ Whisp
Equip: Hazel Gibson & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 5a | 16m | |||
4 |
★ That Man and Me
Equip: Mike Payne & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a | 18m | |||
5 |
★ 752
Equip: Mike Payne & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 5b | 15m | |||
6 |
★ 752 Ext
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2018 | 5b | 20m | |||
7 |
★ Pink Mist
Equip: Hazel Gibson & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 5b | 15m | |||
8 |
★★ Pink Mist Ext
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2018 | 6a | 20m | |||
9 |
★ Jack's the Lad
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 5c | 15m | |||
10 |
★ Tar that Man
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 6a | 18m | |||
11 |
★ Scaphism
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 6a+ | 18m | |||
12 |
★ Strappido
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 6b | 16m | |||
13 |
★ Ling Chi
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 6b | 22m | |||
14 |
Hang Man
Equip: Unknown | 6c | ||||
15 |
★★ Teza
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c+ | 22m | |||
16 |
★★★ Hornets-a-Go-Go
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a | 22m | |||
17 |
★★ Niko
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a | 22m | |||
18 |
★ Fiiiga
Equip: Luca Salsotto & Alberto Trombetta, 2020 | 7b | 20m | |||
19 |
★★ Battle Cry
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7b | 22m | |||
20 |
★★ Mantis
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a+ | 22m | |||
21 |
★★★ Korean Bodega / Uomo Impossibile
Equip: Patrick Gabarrou | 6c | 30m | |||
22 |
★★★ Welcome to Poppy's / Donna Santa
Equip: Patrick Gabarrou | 6c+ | 30m | |||
23 |
★★★ Out of the Black
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a+ | 38m | |||
24 |
★★★ Shoot at Will
Very nice steep line. Starts easy with jugs, then becomes steep with crimps. A technical balancy buldge at the top. Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c | 22m | |||
25 |
★★ TPS
Equip: Simon Watchorn-Rice & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a | 22m | |||
26 |
Stubbins
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 25m | |||
27 |
★ Polynesia
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 25m | |||
28 |
★★ Birty Bee
Equip: Andy Birtwistle & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
29 |
★ Cheapside
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 25m | |||
30 |
★★ Duck Shoot
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a+ | 28m | |||
31 |
★★ The Shooting Gallery
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 28m | |||
32 |
★★ Always
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 24m | |||
33 |
★★★ Sometimes
Nice steep line. Good crimps with a little crux in the middle. Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c | 25m | |||
34 |
★★ Shotgun
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7b | 24m | |||
35 |
★★ Hunter Killer
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a+ | 24m | |||
36 |
★★ Snapshot
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 20m | |||
37 |
Tufa Shot
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c | 25m | |||
38 |
★★ Sharp Shooter
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 27m | |||
39 |
★ Run Rabbit, Run
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a | 18m, 7 | |||
40 |
★ Shoot 'em Up
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c+ | 18m | |||
41 |
★★ Calypso
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a | 18m, 7 | |||
42 |
★★ Calypso Ext
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 30m, 12 | |||
43 |
★★ Cocoa Nuts
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a | 18m, 7 | |||
44 |
★ Purple Haze
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a | 18m, 10 | |||
45 |
★ Five Tena Lady
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 18m, 8 | |||
46 |
★★ In Stealth She Is
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 18m | |||
47 |
★★ Bertie Baiting
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 18m | |||
48 |
★★★ The Mercy Seat
Equip: Mike Payne & Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6b+ | 20m | |||
49 |
★★ The Mersey Beat
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
50 |
★ The Liver Birds
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
51 |
★★ Bang Bang
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c | 20m | |||
52 |
BA Bonus
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c | 20m | |||
53 |
★ Dapper Dan
Equip: Keith Lonsdale & Gary Gibson, 2016 | 5c+ | 22m | |||
54 |
★★ Dapper Dan Ext
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 6b+ | 32m | |||
55 |
★ Conquistadors of the Useless
Equip: Chris Lawson & Gary Gibson, 2016 | 5b | 20m | |||
56 |
★ Ta GG
Equip: M Williams & Gary Gibson, 2016 | 5b | 20m | |||
57 |
Stiff V
Equip: V Williams & Gary Gibson, 2016 | 5c+ | 20m | |||
58 |
Anything
Equip: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6a | 12m | |||
59 |
★ Depends on Me
Equip: Hazel Gibson & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 5b | 15m | |||
60 |
★ Always Everyday
Equip: Hazel Gibson, 2016 | 5a | 15m |
1.8. Griffig 39 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 36.995724, 26.956564
descripción
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
8610
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 3c | 25m | |||||
2 |
★★ Uster
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 4c | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★ Love Someone
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6b | 15m | |||||
4 |
★★ Sauna am See
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
5 |
★★ Leo
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 5a | 20m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ 4 Glüewii Delüx
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 5b | 25m | |||||
7 |
★ Mathis on the Road
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 5c | 20m, 12 | |||||
8 |
★★ Linnéa iss meh Gmües
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 5c | 18m, 9 | |||||
9 |
Sherlock Holmes
Equip: Karin Kavoussi, 2023 | 5b+ | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★ Kiipeily Muumi
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 4c | 15m, 7 | |||||
11 |
★ It‘s a Janine Thing
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6a | 15m, 8 | |||||
12 |
★★ Chan & Chan
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6a+ | 15m, 9 | |||||
13 |
★★ Maja
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mar 2022 | 6b | 15m, 9 | |||||
14 |
★ Hoppla
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6a+ | 15m, 10 | |||||
15 |
★★ Chuchichäschtlitripp
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6b+ | 20m, 11 | |||||
16 |
★★ Suchspiel
The sharpness! Equip: H Woracek, 2022 | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
17 |
★★ Chlausezäuerli
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6b | 20m | |||||
18 |
★ Robin Hood
Equip: Karin Kavoussi, 2023 | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
19 |
★ Ilo Kann's Halt!
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6a | 20m, 10 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Griffig Goes to Kalymnos
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6b+ | 36m, 19 | |||||
21 |
★★★ Alpine-Experience
Advertencia Equipo fijo: Missing nut at anchor Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
22 |
★★★ Gremlin Hannah
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, 2022 | 7c+ | 30m | |||||
23 |
★★ The Wild Eight RF
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 8a | 30m | |||||
24 |
Ndo Cojo Cojo
Grade unconfirmed. Equip: B Lemaire, 2023 | 8c | 30m | |||||
25 |
Nun t'aregge
Equip: B Lemaire, 2023 | 30m | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
26 |
★★ 0.07 Seconds
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 7b | 20m | |||||
27 |
★★ Lou+Zoe
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
28 |
★★ Pestalozzi
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6c | 15m, 9 | |||||
29 |
★★ Timba Climber
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 7a+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
30 |
★★ Griffology
Equip: S Koz & Hannes Webhofer, 2022 | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
31 |
★★ Millionenbach
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 7a | 20m | |||||
32 |
Grafitti
Equip: 2023 | 20m | ||||||
33 |
★ Känzeli
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
34 |
★★ The Dentist Terror
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6c | 15m, 9 | |||||
35 |
★★ Oror Does the Baby Freeze
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 6c | 15m, 9 | |||||
36 |
★★ Zellweger
During the May and June breeding season please do not climb if Kestrels are nesting in the large hole. Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 8a | 25m | |||||
37 |
Trypophobie
Grade unconfirmed. Equip: B Lemaire, 2022 | 8b+ | 35m | |||||
38 |
★★ Climbers Village
During the May and June breeding season please do not climb if Kestrels are nesting in the large hole. Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
39 |
★★★ Melcon
During the May and June breeding season please do not climb if Kestrels are nesting in the large hole Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 7a+ | 35m, 17 |
1.9. E.T. 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 36.974968, 26.988934
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
KoukouvasA clean pocketed wall left of the small cave, about 400m left of the main wall. Facing north with shade almost all day. A cairned path leads left from near the gate about 100m below the main sector. Follow the blue dots. Shade after 10:00. | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ Zupp le Pingoin
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c | 25m | |||||
3 |
★★ Ouh Punaise
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
4 |
Balla Linda
Second pitch of 'Ouh Punaise'. Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
5 |
★★ Sylvie
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c | 20m | |||||
6 |
★★ Jako
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★ Manu
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 7a | 20m | |||||
8 |
★★ Et Defi Fit
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c | 20m | |||||
9 |
★★ Titi
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★ Paty Fifty
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6b | 20m | |||||
11 |
★★ Lin Des 100
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6b | 20m | |||||
12 |
★★ Le Defi à Lisou
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6a | 17m | |||||
Main ButtressShade after 12:30. | ||||||||
14 |
★★★ Daisy
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6b | 58m, 2 | |||||
15 |
★★ Anemone
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6b+ | 58m, 2 | |||||
16 |
★★ Iris
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6a+ | 30m | |||||
17 |
★★ Orchid
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6c+ | 65m, 2 | |||||
18 |
★★★ Ibiscus
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6b+ | 65m, 2 | |||||
19 |
★★ Poppy
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 7b | 20m | |||||
20 |
★★ Rose
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6b | 38m | |||||
21 |
★★ Lily
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6b | 35m | |||||
22 |
★★ Snowdrope
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6a+ | 78m, 2 | |||||
23 |
★★ Silver Bells
Equip: Dave Musgrove & Gil Peel, 2014 | 6b | 35m | |||||
CaveThe big cave right above the main wall. Shade all day. | ||||||||
25 |
Project
Equip: Liam Halsey, 2011 | 30m | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Megolamania
Equip: Neil Gresham, 2011 | 7b+ | 14m | |||||
27 |
★★★ Rebellion
Equip: Neil Gresham & Simon Wadsworth, 2011 | 8a+ | 18m | |||||
28 |
★★★ Uprising
Equip: Neil Gresham & Leah Crane, 2011 | 8b | 25m | |||||
29 |
★★★ Tyrant
Equip: Neil Gresham, 2010 | 8a+ | 25m | |||||
30 |
★★★ Dura Mater
Equip: Neil Gresham, 2010 | 8a+ | 23m | |||||
|
1.10. Rina 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 36.979676, 27.026855
descripción
Shade until 12:30.
Acceso
From parking (36.975266, 27.025280) to (a fence door36.976187, 27.026207) continue to a wide couloir (36.978219, 27.025795) and then straight up. See map. There should be some cairns.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Androsage
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 28m | |||
2 |
★★ Le Vin d’Ici
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6b | 26m | |||
3 |
★★ L'Au Delà
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6b+ | 24m | |||
4 |
★★ Lidl des Jeunes
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6c | 24m | |||
5 |
★★ Pierrot
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6b | 21m | |||
6 |
★★ Gloubi Boulga
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a+ | 23m | |||
7 |
★★ Tirli Pinpon
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 5c | 30m | |||
8 |
★★ Rasta Kekette
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 30m | |||
9 |
★★ Sisyphus
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a+ | 30m | |||
10 |
★★ Eole
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 30m | |||
11 |
★★ Immautumi
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 32m | |||
12 |
★★ N’Golo Golo
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 30m | |||
13 |
★★ Hakuna Matata
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 30m | |||
14 |
★★★ Hakuna Matata Ext
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 45m | |||
15 |
★★★ Ummagumma
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 5c | 35m | |||
16 |
★★★ Ummagumma Ext
Equip: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 5c+ | 45m |
1.11. Vathy Fjord 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Psicobloc (deep water solo) y Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 36.976543, 27.036242
descripción
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
HookA single line on the left side of the fjord, just after leaving the harbor. Belay from a boat that is tied both to the wall and an anchor in opposite direction of the sea current. Shade until 10:00. | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ Hook
Originally a double-pitch. Rebolted as a single-pitch route in 2022. Equip: Ito Riva & Andrea Gelfi, 2001 Equip: Fred Leconte, 2022 | 7c+ | 35m | |||||
Manolis DWSA small DWS cave at the left end of the fjord. Routes are between 8 and 12 meters high. Shade until 10:00. | ||||||||
4 | ★★ Left Bulging Lip of the Cave | 5c | 8m | |||||
5 | Traverse to the Right | 7b | 30m | |||||
6 | Roof on the Lip | 8b | 10m | |||||
7 | Small Roof, Sharp Finish | 7b | 12m | |||||
8 | ★★ Big Huecos | 6a | 11m | |||||
9 | ★★ Bulging Wall | 6a | 8m | |||||
Puerto EscondidoOn the right side of the fjord, visible from the harbor. | ||||||||
11 |
★★ Tremeur
Equip: Unknown | 7a | 30m | |||||
12 |
★★ Bigaud
Equip: Claude Idoux & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2013 | 6c | 30m | |||||
13 |
★★ Puerto Escondido
Equip: Ito Riva & Andrea Gelfi, 2001 Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2013 | 7a | 30m | |||||
14 |
★★ Taupette
Equip: Unknown | 6b | 30m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Socratic Swimming Lessons
Sea-level traverse at the right side of the fjord, starting at the end of the pier. Equip: T Chubb, 2002 | 6a+ | 250m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Socratic Swimming Lessons Ext
Continue on at increasing difficulty. Equip: T Chubb, 2002 | 7a+ | 350m | |||||
Cross | ||||||||
18 |
Come Vathy
Equip: Franca Gabarrou & Patrick Gabarrou | 6c | 120m, 3 |
1.12. Little Eden 35 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Todo Escalada deportiva
Lat / Long: 36.979358, 27.038418
descripción
Little Eden is a new, dreamy crag on the east coast of Kalymnos, near Rina/Vathy. It is a short photogenic cliff that sits just above a quiet beach north of the Vathy fjord. Locally, the beach is known as Kampí.
Little Eden is ideal for climbing on hot days. The cliff comes into the shade just before 12 o’clock noon. The green-blue waters shimmering below are reason enough to visit, even if climbing is not on the day’s itinerary. Perfect for afternoon climbing when the temperature is high and the heat too intense at other parts of the island. Avoid days with strong winds, especially out of the south and east.
50 meters from the beach, the cliff is orange, white, and grey limestone of very good quality and a height of up to 20-35 meters. The rock is strongly featured with pockets, some natural vertical cracks, and relatively sharp holds. It can be compared to sector The Beach in that the rock is sharp and mostly vertical.
There are 35 routes to-date, graded primarily between 6a-7b. The hardest routes (8a–8b?) are short with very tough boulder passages. There is potential for a few new routes but thorough cleaning of vegetation and loose rock is a prerequisite.
Information provided by Climb Kalymnos
Acceso
Little Eden is very easy to approach with a boat from Vathy. Go to the small port of Rina/Vathy and ask at the pier or the tavernas for somebody with a boat to take you to Kampí beach. Ask for the price, and don’t forget to also arrange for your return. Alternatively, if it’s not very windy and the water outside Vathy fjord is very calm, you can rent a kayak from KKC at the far end of the pier. (Small engine-powered boats are also for rent.) By boat, you will need 5-10 minutes to the beach. By kayak, 15-20 minutes. When you get to the beach, head to the left side, behind the trees. A narrow uphill path to the cliffs starts there. By foot you can reach the cliff at its right end in half an hour starting from the north side of the harbour heading the small chapel uphill then up to meet a fence that you have to cross and follow till the crag
Historia
Little Eden was equipped in summer 2019 by the Austrian mountain guide Hannes Webhofer, with the help of a few others Kalymnian and foreign climbers. The Kalymnos Kayak Centre (KKC), a local business renting kayaks and boats, contributed transfers to and from the crag. The hardware used to equip Little Eden (bolts, hangers, and clippable lower-offs) was provided to Hannes Webhofer by Climb Kalymnos. This is made possible thanks to proceeds from the Kalymnos guidebook. Please continue to support their efforts.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Prima Ballerina
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a+ | 22m | |||
2 |
★★ Tiny Dancer
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c | 22m | |||
3 |
★★ Spirit Dance
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
4 |
★★ Dirty Dancing
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c | 20m | |||
5 |
★ Dance Party
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6a+ | 28m | |||
6 |
★★ Beginner’s Luck
Equip: Hannes Webhofer & Luca Salsotto, 2019 | 5c | 20m | |||
7 |
★ Rock Star
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 5b+ | 18m | |||
8 |
★★ The Line
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a | 23m | |||
9 |
★ Pride and Joy
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6a+ | 23m | |||
10 |
★★★ Spider Hotel
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6b | 28m | |||
11 |
★★ All or Nothing
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
12 |
★★ Rebel Yell
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a | 30m | |||
13 |
★★ Soul Stripper
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a+ | 18m | |||
14 |
★★ Optical Illusion
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7c | 15m | |||
15 |
★★ Masters of Stone
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7c | 25m | |||
16 |
Fail to Send
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 8b | 15m | |||
17 |
Going Nowhere Fast
Grade to be confirmed. Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 8a - b | 10m | |||
18 |
★★ Seventh Heaven
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a | 20m | |||
19 |
★★ Cloud 9
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a | 27m | |||
20 |
★★★ Stone Romance
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
21 |
★★★ Stone Monker
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6a+ | 28m | |||
22 |
★★ Stone Man
The route has been bolted by German climbers using the anchor of Stone warrior just to make a straight line At least would have been better to fix a new anchor Equip: 2022 | 6b | 32m | |||
23 |
★★ Stone Warriors
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6a | 30m | |||
24 |
★ Stone Cold
Equip: Thierry Bionda & Luca Salsotto, 2019 | 6a | 30m | |||
25 |
★ Raining Stones
Equip: Luca Salsotto & André Langenbach, 2020 | 6a | 30m | |||
26 |
★★ Stone Island
Equip: Luca Salsotto & André Langenbach, 2020 | 5c+ | 25m | |||
27 |
★★ Astonished
Advertencia Roca: Loose block higher up Equip: Luca Salsotto & André Langenbach, 2020 | 6a | ||||
28 |
★★ Living Stone
Easy start to technical finish. Has a second anchor higher up (in the roof) which seems like an extension. 6a only until first anchor. Equip: Thierry Bionda & Pascal Bourgeois, 2020 | 6a | 25m | |||
29 |
Mixed Emotions
Equip: Jürgen Rohrmann, 2019 | 6a | 25m | |||
30 |
★★ Spigola
Equip: Luca Salsotto, 2019 | 6c+ | 30m | |||
31 |
★★★ Hidden Beauty
Equip: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c | 28m | |||
32 |
Contorto
Equip: Luca Salsotto, 2021 | 6c+ | 15m | |||
33 |
★★ Storto
Equip: Luca Salsotto, 2021 | 6c | 15m | |||
34 |
★★★ Orto
Equip: Luca Salsotto & André Langenbach, 2021 | 6b | 15m | |||
35 |
Corto
Equip: Luca Salsotto & André Langenbach, 2021 | 6a+ | 15m |