A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jannik peta barrett niedag Radoslav Golian Luca Salsotto Eleo Feldsturm Yannick Froese Scott Hailstone EmptySoft
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Vathy
420 in Area
- 1.1. Swan Song 4 in Sector
-
1.2.
Pezonda 53 in Sector
- 1.2.1. Eora Cave 14 in Sector
- 1.2.2. Lemon Crumble Wall 8 in Sector
- 1.2.3. Valhalla 23 in Sector
- 1.2.4. Peanut Wall 4 in Sector
- 1.2.5. Great Escape 4 in Sector
- 1.3. Rockland 33 in Sector
- 1.4. Julian 32 in Sector
- 1.5. Je t'aime 91 in Sector
- 1.6. Milianos 16 in Sector
- 1.7. Milianos Cave 60 in Sector
- 1.8. Griffig 39 in Sector
- 1.9. E.T. 27 in Sector
- 1.10. Rina 16 in Sector
- 1.11. Vathy Fjord 14 in Sector
- 1.12. Little Eden 35 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Vathy 420 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 36.990684, 27.009299
- PREPARE to leave nothing behind (trashbag, etc).
- Use your own gear for toproping. Use fixed gear only for lowering. (See first section of guidebook for details.)
- Minimize single-use plastic. No recycling on the island (yet).
- Use established paths and close gates behind you.
- Consider a donation to the rescue team (red boxes).
éthique
1.1. Swan Song 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 37.007208, 26.984689
description
Shade after 11:00.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Swan Song
Équip.: Mike Reed, 2022 FA: Mike Reed, 20 Nov. 2022 | 7c | 20m | |||
2 |
★★ Distant Shores
Équip.: Scott Hailstone & Mike Reed, 2022 FA: Scott Hailstone, 20 Nov. 2022 | 7a | 20m | |||
3 |
★★★ Lot's Wife
Équip.: Mike Reed, 2022 FA: Mike Reed, 21 Nov. 2022 | 6c+ | 22m | |||
4 |
★★ Smoke me a Kipper
Équip.: Mike Reed, 2022 FA: Mike Reed, 21 Nov. 2022 | 6b | 25m |
1.2. Pezonda 53 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 37.003276, 27.000144
approche
From Masouri, drive to Arginonta and turn right onto the road towards Vathy. Continue for 3.7 km all the way to the col (37.00484, 26.99419). Take the dirt road to the left and park about 100 m further on the large open square (37.00375, 26.99428).
(20 min): Continue on the dirt road for about 50 m, until you find a trail on the right, marked by blue and red color marks (37.00364, 26.995038). After about 10 min, you'll pass a small stone wall. Continue on the trail, following cairns and color marks downhill. After scrambling down a small cliff, the trail splits (37.00270, 26.99926).
To 'Valhalla', 'Peanut Wall' and 'Great Escape': Take the trail to the left, marked by blue color marks. After about 5 min, you'll reach the first routes of 'Valhalla'. 'Peanut Wall' and 'Great Escape' are located 100 m further along the base of the cliff.
To 'Eora Cave' and 'Lemon Crumble Wall': Take the steep downhill trail to the right, marked by red color marks. After about 5 min, you'll reach to upper right routes of 'Lemon Crumble Wall'. To 'Eora Cave', continue 100 m further around the corner.
1.2.1. Eora Cave 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.001758, 26.999303
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Life is a Beach
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6a | 25m | |||
2 |
Paparazzi View
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7a | 20m | |||
3 |
★ Rooftop Yoga
Équip.: Niels Abegglen & M Gerakios, 2020 | 6c | 25m | |||
4 |
Fighting and Biting
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 8a | 20m | |||
5 |
★ Game Changers
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 8a | 15m | |||
6 |
Eora Cave
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 8b+ | 20m | |||
7 |
God is a Pogo Princess
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7c+ | 20m | |||
8 |
★★★ Twin Souls
Équip.: Niels Abegglen & M Foka, 2020 | 7b | 20m | |||
9 |
Saletti
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7b+ | 25m | |||
10 |
★★★ Hoppid
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7a+ | 20m | |||
11 |
★★ Mesmerized
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7a+ | 20m | |||
12 |
★★ Tartaruga Azul
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c | 18m | |||
13 |
Leoforaki
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c | 15m | |||
14 |
★★★ Cheez
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6c+ | 25m |
1.2.2. Lemon Crumble Wall 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.001861, 26.999545
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Scream
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7a | 15m, 6 | |||
2 |
Icaraizinho
New route right of 'Scream'. Name written on the wall. Grade unknown. Équip.: 2023 | 25m | ||||
3 |
★★★ Fair Enough
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7a | 30m, 12 | |||
4 |
Ramba Zamba
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7b+ | 30m | |||
5 |
Into the Mystic
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7a+ | 34m | |||
6 |
★★ Mindblower
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
7 |
Mindblower Ext
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7b+ | 36m | |||
8 |
★★★ Lemon Crumble
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2019 | 7b | 36m |
1.2.3. Valhalla 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.003601, 27.000286
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
So Lala
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6b+ | 20m | |||
2 |
Where is Marley?
Équip.: Niels Abegglen & M Foka, 2022 | 6a+ | 22m | |||
3 |
Pina
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 5c+ | 23m | |||
4 |
★★ Zohan
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 5b | 20m, 11 | |||
5 |
★ Borat
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 5c | 25m, 14 | |||
6 |
★★ Ymir
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 7a+ | 30m, 13 | |||
7 |
★★ Thor
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer & Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7c | 35m | |||
8 |
Odin
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer & Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7c | 25m | |||
9 |
★★★ Valhalla
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer & Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7b+ | 35m | |||
10 |
Troll
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 7b+ | 25m | |||
11 |
★★ Heidrun
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
12 |
★★ Heidrun Ext
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7a+ | 35m | |||
13 |
★★ More Than Honey
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 5c+ | 25m, 11 | |||
14 |
★★★ More Than Honey Ext
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6c | 37m, 17 | |||
15 |
★★ Misirlou
Tolle Tour mit 2 kniffligen Stellen Équip.: M Glynatsis & Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6a | 25m, 14 | |||
16 |
★ Arabiata
Suche den Weg zwischen den 3 Routen, super schöne Linie Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 6a | 28m, 14 | |||
17 |
★★ Arabiata Ext 1
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7a | 37m | |||
18 |
★ Arabiata Ext 2
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 7b | 47m | |||
19 |
Stoned Woman
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 5b | 25m | |||
20 |
★★★ Stoned Woman Ext (Left)
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6b+ | 45m | |||
21 |
Stoned Woman Ext (Right)
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 6a+ | 45m | |||
22 |
★ Thumbs Up
Sehr scharfer Felsen Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 6b+ | 15m, 7 | |||
23 |
★★★ Orea Thea
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 5c+ | 22m, 10 |
1.2.4. Peanut Wall 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.004439, 27.000805
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Witch
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 6b | 25m | |||
2 |
Sorcerer
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 7b | 30m | |||
3 |
Hexenkessel
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7b | 25m | |||
4 |
Peanut Approach
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 4b | 15m |
1.2.5. Great Escape 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 37.004759, 27.001037
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Anarchy
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2022 | 8c | 30m | |||
2 |
Into the Wild
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2020 | 7b+ | 20m | |||
3 |
Going West
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 6b | 23m | |||
4 |
Wild West End
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, 2020 | 7a | 23m |
1.3. Rockland 33 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 36.997720, 27.005154
description
Shade until 14:00.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Wasp
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 5c | 18m | |||
2 |
★★ Trudi
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2018 | 5a | 20m | |||
3 |
★★ Accès
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 3a | 20m | |||
4 |
★★ Mum Treck
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 5c | 20m | |||
5 |
★ Amytiville
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
6 |
★ Daddy Short Legs
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
7 |
★ GR 69
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
8 |
★ The Book of Olga
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
9 |
★ Shantaram
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
10 |
★ Class Heroes
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6c+ | 25m | |||
11 |
★ Sex Made me Stupid
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7a | 25m | |||
12 |
★★ Birgit
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6b | 25m | |||
13 |
★ Howdini
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7a+ | 30m | |||
14 |
★ Do You Want my Rectification
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7c | 30m | |||
15 |
★ Fahmîdî
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7a | 30m | |||
16 |
★ Labor Vincit
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b+ | 20m | |||
17 |
Lefteris
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b+ | 20m | |||
18 |
★ Olympic Airlines
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b | 20m | |||
19 |
★ OA 136 & 736
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b | 30m | |||
20 |
★★ Bitotest
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b+ | 30m | |||
21 |
★ Panta Psila
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7a | 33m | |||
22 |
★★★ Bokhado
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6c | 33m | |||
23 |
★ Skif the Rock
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7a | 20m | |||
24 |
★ Mikri Gata
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b+ | 20m | |||
25 |
★ Kee Man
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b | 20m | |||
26 |
★★ El Bulli
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6a+ | 20m | |||
27 |
★ Kiss by Death
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6c | 33m | |||
28 |
★ Koukourouznick
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6c | 20m | |||
29 |
★ Koukourouznick Ext
Grade unconfirmed. Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 7b+ | 33m | |||
30 |
Unfinished Project
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | |||||
31 |
★ Ferran Adrià
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6b | 25m | |||
32 |
★ Beatings Will Continue
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 5c | 25m | |||
33 |
★★ Until Morale Improves
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 5b | 25m |
1.4. Julian 32 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 36.998202, 26.989762
description
Good crag for leading easy routes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Far Left | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ Sun Dance
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Ute Friedrich, 2017 | 5a | 40m | |||||
3 |
Schwimmnudel / Aqua Noodle
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, Dirk Hommel & Gunter Hommel, Oct. 2020 | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
4 |
Edwin
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Ute Friedrich, 17 Oct. 2021 | 6a | 18m | |||||
5 |
Muselmann / Mussulman
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, Oct. 2020 | 6b | 16m | |||||
6 |
Unhold
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, Oct. 2020 | 6c | 15m | |||||
7 |
Trubel / Turmoil
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, 26 Oct. 2021 | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
8 |
Rappel
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, Oct. 2020 | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
9 |
Rempler
Shares anchor with 'Rappel'. Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, Oct. 2020 | 5c | 15m | |||||
Left | ||||||||
11 |
★ Next
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2017 | 6a+ | 17m | |||||
12 |
★ Door
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2017 | 6a | 17m | |||||
13 |
★ Handle
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, 2017 | 5c | 17m | |||||
Main | ||||||||
15 |
★ George and Katina
Équip.: Oswin Steis, 2013 | 5c | 16m | |||||
16 |
★★ Julian's First Step
Équip.: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5b | 18m | |||||
17 |
★ Thanks Petra
Équip.: Oswin Steis, Jürgen Rohrmann & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 6a | 18m | |||||
18 |
★ Angi
Équip.: Claude Remy, Yves Remy, Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5c | 18m | |||||
19 |
★ Escorial
Équip.: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5b | 18m | |||||
20 |
★★ Vathy View
Équip.: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5a | 18m | |||||
21 |
★★ Hessga
Équip.: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5a | 18m | |||||
22 |
★★ SVK
Équip.: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 4c | 18m | |||||
23 |
★★ George Fatolitis Studio
Équip.: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5b | 18m | |||||
24 |
★ Netti
Équip.: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 5a | 18m | |||||
25 |
Fliege
Équip.: Oswin Steis, Jürgen Rohrmann & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 4b | 18m | |||||
26 |
★★ Fräse
Équip.: Jürgen Rohrmann, Oswin Steis & Hans Weninger, 2007 | 4c | 18m | |||||
27 |
★ Spinner
Équip.: Hans Weninger, Jeanette Weninger, Angie Hafner & Christian Schmidt, 2008 | 4a | 18m | |||||
28 |
★ Fisch
Équip.: Hans Weninger, Jeanette Weninger, Angie Hafner & Christian Schmidt, 2008 | 4a | 18m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
29 |
★ PB
Équip.: Hans Weninger, Jeanette Weninger, Angie Hafner & Christian Schmidt, 2008 | 5c | 20m | |||||
30 |
Clown
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Ute Friedrich, 19 Oct. 2021 | 5b | 20m | |||||
31 |
Mads
same anchor with "Clown" Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, 29 Oct. 2021 | 5b | 20m | |||||
32 |
Zirkus
Équip.: Gunter Hommel, Dirk Hommel & Joachim Friedrich, 25 Oct. 2021 | 5b | 20m | |||||
Right | ||||||||
34 |
Eli
Équip.: Unknown, 2019 | 4a | 20m | |||||
35 |
Leichtes Ding
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, Direk Hommel & Gunter Hommel, Oct. 2020 | 4a | 17m | |||||
36 |
Mutzelputzel
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, Dirk Hommel & Gunter Hommel, Oct. 2020 | 5b | 15m |
1.5. Je t'aime 91 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 36.997693, 26.985345
description
The equipper of most new routes (2023) did not get a chance to climb them so they remain free projects ranging from 6a-8a. Please submit your route comments and grade suggestions to www.climbkalymnos.com. The sector is being rebolted right now (May 2023).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Left Slab | ||||||||
2 |
Amour
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 5c | 21m | |||||
3 |
Ma Cher
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Amant
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 6a+ | 21m | |||||
5 |
Snowball the Pig
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6b+ | 35m | |||||
Animal Farm | ||||||||
7 |
★★★ Küsschen
Nice long route with an alpine touch, interesting moves in the corner. Équip.: Falk Heinicke & Christine Fiedler, 2021 | 6b | 35m, 17 | |||||
8 |
★★ Watch out, Cows!
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 6b+ | 28m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Red Wales
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 7b | 30m | |||||
10 |
★★★ Sheep on Drugs
Short, pumpy, with not an easy boulder! Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 6c | 20m | |||||
11 |
★★ Mar y Foka
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 6b+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
12 |
★★ Kamikatsika
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 7a | 22m | |||||
13 |
★★★ Animal Farm
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 8a | 35m | |||||
14 |
★ Rät Päck
Nice route with an original finish. Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 5c+ | 17m | |||||
15 |
★★ Stray Cats
After a fairly uninspiring start the route comes together with the end of 'Rät Päck' and shares the original move via the hole. Then beautiful and technical moves on small, sharp holds on a vertical wall. Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 6c | 28m | |||||
16 |
Stray Cats Ext
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 7b | 35m | |||||
17 |
★★ Barking Dogs
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 7a+ | 17m | |||||
18 |
★★★ Save a Horse...
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 7a | 20m | |||||
19 |
... Ride a Cowboy
Grade to be confirmed. Équip.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 8a - b | 35m | |||||
20 |
★ Katman
Left start variation of 'Kalytube'. Grade to be confirmed. Équip.: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2008 | 8b - c | 35m | |||||
21 |
★★ Kalytube
Équip.: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2008 | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
22 |
★★ Katelis
Équip.: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2008 | 6c | 27m | |||||
23 |
★ Cherry 1
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2012 Entr.: Niels Abegglen, Juin 2023 | 5b | 22m | |||||
24 |
★★ French Kiss
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2012 | 5a+ | 19m | |||||
25 |
★★ Nice
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2012 | 5b | 25m | |||||
Arena | ||||||||
27 |
★★ Spasiklaki
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c+ | 14m | |||||
28 |
★ Pame Quickie
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6b+ | 10m | |||||
29 |
Cyborg
Équip.: Aris Theodoropoulos & Haris Orfanoudakis, 2010 | 7c+/8a | 23m | |||||
30 |
★★★ Cyborg Ext
Équip.: Aris Theodoropoulos & Haris Orfanoudakis, 2010 | 8a+ | 30m | |||||
31 |
★★ Hasta la Victoria Siempre
Shares anchors with 'Cyborg'. Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 7c | 23m | |||||
32 |
Hasta la Victoria Siempre Ext
Shares anchors with 'Cyborg Ext', but climbs on a separate extension to the right. Grade to be confirmed. Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 8a+ | 30m | |||||
33 |
★★★ Air Bahal
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 8a | 33m | |||||
34 |
★★★ Tsila
Shares the last 4 bolts and anchors with 'Air Bahal'. Équip.: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2010 | 7c+ | 30m | |||||
35 |
★★★ We Are the Road Crew
Some bolts added in 2020, including a direct start. Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2007 | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
36 |
★★ Heitere Bimbam
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
37 |
★★ Vas o Paraskevas
Équip.: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2008 Entr.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6b+ | 24m | |||||
38 |
D'Schöh Zö Tö
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c | 14m | |||||
39 |
★★ Ça Va
Équip.: Unknown | 6a | 20m | |||||
40 |
My Way
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6a+ | 24m | |||||
41 |
★★ The Bright Side of Life
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 7a+ | 25m | |||||
42 |
★★ And Now for Something Completely Different
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6b | 14m | |||||
43 |
★ And Now for Something Completely Different Ext
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c+ | 23m | |||||
44 |
★★ Make Love...
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c | 18m | |||||
45 |
...Not War
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 7a | 17m | |||||
46 |
O Erastis Sou
Équip.: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2008 | 7b | 20m | |||||
47 |
Mavri Kardia
Grade to be confirmed. Équip.: Haris Orfanoudakis, 2008 | 8b | 20m | |||||
48 |
★★ Voilà
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 6b+ | 22m | |||||
49 |
Baffo
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6a | 14m | |||||
50 |
Some Like it Hot
Équip.: Niels Abegglen, 2023 | 6c | 27m | |||||
51 |
★★ Lanterne
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 6b | 24m | |||||
52 |
Clan
Équip.: Florian Friedrich & Joachim Friedrich, 2015 | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
53 |
Rue
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 6a+ | 27m | |||||
54 |
★ Flower
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, 2014 | 5b | 25m | |||||
55 |
Pip
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, 2015 | 5c | 25m | |||||
56 |
Cherry 2
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6a | 25m | |||||
57 |
Phönix
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 5b | 25m | |||||
58 |
Fritz
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, Ute Friedrich & Gunter Hommel | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
59 |
★★ Helene
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Ute Friedrich, 2012 | 5a | 28m | |||||
60 |
★★ Flirt
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, 2014 | 4c | 24m | |||||
Right Slab | ||||||||
62 |
Petit
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 4b | 30m | |||||
63 |
Affaire
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 5a | 30m | |||||
64 |
Triole
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, Ute Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2016 | 4c | 26m | |||||
65 |
Sinistre
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 5b | 25m | |||||
66 |
Ami
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2011 | 4b | 27m | |||||
67 |
★★ Dirty Harry
Équip.: Unknown, 2009 | 3c | 35m | |||||
68 |
★★ Magnum Force
Équip.: Andy Hedgecock, 2012 | 4b | 33m | |||||
69 |
★★ Love Me
Équip.: Kathleen Kühnel & Falk Heinicke, 2010 | 5b | 35m | |||||
70 |
Quickie
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2011 | 5a | 25m | |||||
71 |
★ Heat Wave
Équip.: Andy Hedgecock, 2021 | 5a | 25m | |||||
72 |
★★ Brussels by Night
Équip.: Unknown, 2009 | 5b | 25m | |||||
73 |
★★ Say You're Sorry
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2013 | 5c | 25m | |||||
74 |
★★ Nordstern
Équip.: I Bonikowski, E Schubert, Anett Riemer & Falk Heinicke, 2014 | 6a | 26m | |||||
75 |
★★ 2 Spring
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2015 | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
76 |
★★ Mika
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6b | 20m | |||||
77 |
★★ Hilti Sister
Équip.: Boris Girardin, Claude Remy & Yves Remy, 2008 | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
78 |
★★★ Fat End
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6b | 18m | |||||
79 |
★★ Kiss
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich, 2014 | 6a+ | 16m | |||||
80 |
★★ Rachel
Équip.: Andy Hedgecock, 2014 | 4a | 20m | |||||
81 |
Missing in Action
Équip.: Andy Hedgecock, 2019 | 4b | 20m | |||||
82 |
★ Grumpy Cavemen
Équip.: Andy Hedgecock, 2014 | 3c | 20m | |||||
83 |
★ The Sound of the Hound
Équip.: Andy Hedgecock, 2014 | 4a | 20m | |||||
84 |
Fortune
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6a | 30m | |||||
85 |
★★ Surprise
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6b | 30m | |||||
Historic RoutesRoutes were removed, changed or replaced with new routes during the 2023 rebolting. | ||||||||
87 | Tas Kebab | 40m | ||||||
88 | M & P Kuragio | 20m | ||||||
89 |
★★ Hotel Kamari
Replaced with 'Mar y Foka'. | 6c | 18m | |||||
90 | Anita | 30m | ||||||
91 | Nadir Bar | 30m | ||||||
92 | Paratragudo | 35m | ||||||
93 | Karvelopaido | |||||||
94 | Malamo | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
95 | Erotikos | |||||||
96 | MD Sport |
1.6. Milianos 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 36.998422, 26.957999
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Pan Aroma
Équip.: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
2 |
★ Pan Orama
Équip.: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 7a+ | 25m | |||
3 |
★★ Pan Dora
Équip.: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
4 |
Damocles
Hangers have been removed until a loose flake has been cleaned. Équip.: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6a | 20m | |||
5 |
★ Millonga
Équip.: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
6 |
★ Madrugada
Équip.: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6a+ | 25m | |||
7 |
Karute
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6a | 25m | |||
8 |
★★ Camille
Équip.: Ursula Rütsch & Gérald Buchs, 2008 | 6a | 25m | |||
9 |
★★ Claude
Équip.: Joachim Friedrich & Gunter Hommel, 2014 | 6b+ | 30m | |||
10 |
★★★ Bronze Adonis
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c | 28m | |||
11 |
★★★ Kung Fu International
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6b | 28m | |||
12 |
★★ Beasley Street
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c+ | 28m | |||
13 |
★★ Majorca
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c | 22m | |||
14 |
★★★ I Don't Wanna Be Nice
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 22m | |||
15 |
★ Nothing
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c | 20m | |||
16 |
★★ Gimmix
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 20m |
1.7. Milianos Cave 60 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 37.000662, 26.957508
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
One Off
Équip.: V Williams & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 4a | 12m | |||
2 |
Pant Flashyitis
Équip.: V Williams & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 4a | 12m | |||
3 |
★ Whisp
Équip.: Hazel Gibson & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 5a | 16m | |||
4 |
★ That Man and Me
Équip.: Mike Payne & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a | 18m | |||
5 |
★ 752
Équip.: Mike Payne & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 5b | 15m | |||
6 |
★ 752 Ext
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2018 | 5b | 20m | |||
7 |
★ Pink Mist
Équip.: Hazel Gibson & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 5b | 15m | |||
8 |
★★ Pink Mist Ext
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2018 | 6a | 20m | |||
9 |
★ Jack's the Lad
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 5c | 15m | |||
10 |
★ Tar that Man
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 6a | 18m | |||
11 |
★ Scaphism
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 6a+ | 18m | |||
12 |
★ Strappido
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 6b | 16m | |||
13 |
★ Ling Chi
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 6b | 22m | |||
14 |
Hang Man
Équip.: Unknown | 6c | ||||
15 |
★★ Teza
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c+ | 22m | |||
16 |
★★★ Hornets-a-Go-Go
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a | 22m | |||
17 |
★★ Niko
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a | 22m | |||
18 |
★ Fiiiga
Équip.: Luca Salsotto & Alberto Trombetta, 2020 | 7b | 20m | |||
19 |
★★ Battle Cry
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7b | 22m | |||
20 |
★★ Mantis
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a+ | 22m | |||
21 |
★★★ Korean Bodega / Uomo Impossibile
Équip.: Patrick Gabarrou | 6c | 30m | |||
22 |
★★★ Welcome to Poppy's / Donna Santa
Équip.: Patrick Gabarrou | 6c+ | 30m | |||
23 |
★★★ Out of the Black
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a+ | 38m | |||
24 |
★★★ Shoot at Will
Very nice steep line. Starts easy with jugs, then becomes steep with crimps. A technical balancy buldge at the top. Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c | 22m | |||
25 |
★★ TPS
Équip.: Simon Watchorn-Rice & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a | 22m | |||
26 |
Stubbins
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 25m | |||
27 |
★ Polynesia
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 25m | |||
28 |
★★ Birty Bee
Équip.: Andy Birtwistle & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
29 |
★ Cheapside
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 25m | |||
30 |
★★ Duck Shoot
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a+ | 28m | |||
31 |
★★ The Shooting Gallery
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 28m | |||
32 |
★★ Always
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 24m | |||
33 |
★★★ Sometimes
Nice steep line. Good crimps with a little crux in the middle. Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c | 25m | |||
34 |
★★ Shotgun
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7b | 24m | |||
35 |
★★ Hunter Killer
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 7a+ | 24m | |||
36 |
★★ Snapshot
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 20m | |||
37 |
Tufa Shot
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c | 25m | |||
38 |
★★ Sharp Shooter
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 27m | |||
39 |
★ Run Rabbit, Run
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a | 18m, 7 | |||
40 |
★ Shoot 'em Up
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6c+ | 18m | |||
41 |
★★ Calypso
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a | 18m, 7 | |||
42 |
★★ Calypso Ext
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 30m, 12 | |||
43 |
★★ Cocoa Nuts
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a | 18m, 7 | |||
44 |
★ Purple Haze
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6a | 18m, 10 | |||
45 |
★ Five Tena Lady
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 18m, 8 | |||
46 |
★★ In Stealth She Is
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b | 18m | |||
47 |
★★ Bertie Baiting
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2017 | 6b+ | 18m | |||
48 |
★★★ The Mercy Seat
Équip.: Mike Payne & Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6b+ | 20m | |||
49 |
★★ The Mersey Beat
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
50 |
★ The Liver Birds
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
51 |
★★ Bang Bang
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c | 20m | |||
52 |
BA Bonus
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6c | 20m | |||
53 |
★ Dapper Dan
Équip.: Keith Lonsdale & Gary Gibson, 2016 | 5c+ | 22m | |||
54 |
★★ Dapper Dan Ext
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2019 | 6b+ | 32m | |||
55 |
★ Conquistadors of the Useless
Équip.: Chris Lawson & Gary Gibson, 2016 | 5b | 20m | |||
56 |
★ Ta GG
Équip.: M Williams & Gary Gibson, 2016 | 5b | 20m | |||
57 |
Stiff V
Équip.: V Williams & Gary Gibson, 2016 | 5c+ | 20m | |||
58 |
Anything
Équip.: Gary Gibson, 2016 | 6a | 12m | |||
59 |
★ Depends on Me
Équip.: Hazel Gibson & Gary Gibson, 2017 | 5b | 15m | |||
60 |
★ Always Everyday
Équip.: Hazel Gibson, 2016 | 5a | 15m |
1.8. Griffig 39 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 36.995724, 26.956564
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
8610
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 3c | 25m | |||||
2 |
★★ Uster
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 4c | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★ Love Someone
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6b | 15m | |||||
4 |
★★ Sauna am See
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
5 |
★★ Leo
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 5a | 20m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ 4 Glüewii Delüx
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 5b | 25m | |||||
7 |
★ Mathis on the Road
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 5c | 20m, 12 | |||||
8 |
★★ Linnéa iss meh Gmües
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 5c | 18m, 9 | |||||
9 |
Sherlock Holmes
Équip.: Karin Kavoussi, 2023 | 5b+ | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★ Kiipeily Muumi
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 4c | 15m, 7 | |||||
11 |
★ It‘s a Janine Thing
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6a | 15m, 8 | |||||
12 |
★★ Chan & Chan
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6a+ | 15m, 9 | |||||
13 |
★★ Maja
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mars 2022 | 6b | 15m, 9 | |||||
14 |
★ Hoppla
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6a+ | 15m, 10 | |||||
15 |
★★ Chuchichäschtlitripp
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6b+ | 20m, 11 | |||||
16 |
★★ Suchspiel
The sharpness! Équip.: H Woracek, 2022 | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
17 |
★★ Chlausezäuerli
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6b | 20m | |||||
18 |
★ Robin Hood
Équip.: Karin Kavoussi, 2023 | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
19 |
★ Ilo Kann's Halt!
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6a | 20m, 10 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Griffig Goes to Kalymnos
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6b+ | 36m, 19 | |||||
21 |
★★★ Alpine-Experience
Alerte Protections: Missing nut at anchor Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 7a+ | 30m | |||||
22 |
★★★ Gremlin Hannah
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, 2022 | 7c+ | 30m | |||||
23 |
★★ The Wild Eight RF
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 8a | 30m | |||||
24 |
Ndo Cojo Cojo
Grade unconfirmed. Équip.: B Lemaire, 2023 | 8c | 30m | |||||
25 |
Nun t'aregge
Équip.: B Lemaire, 2023 | 30m | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
26 |
★★ 0.07 Seconds
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 7b | 20m | |||||
27 |
★★ Lou+Zoe
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
28 |
★★ Pestalozzi
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6c | 15m, 9 | |||||
29 |
★★ Timba Climber
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 7a+ | 20m, 9 | |||||
30 |
★★ Griffology
Équip.: S Koz & Hannes Webhofer, 2022 | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
31 |
★★ Millionenbach
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 7a | 20m | |||||
32 |
Grafitti
Équip.: 2023 | 20m | ||||||
33 |
★ Känzeli
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
34 |
★★ The Dentist Terror
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6c | 15m, 9 | |||||
35 |
★★ Oror Does the Baby Freeze
Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 6c | 15m, 9 | |||||
36 |
★★★ Zellweger
During the May and June breeding season please do not climb if Kestrels are nesting in the large hole. Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 7c+ | 25m | |||||
37 |
Trypophobie
Grade unconfirmed. Équip.: B Lemaire, 2022 | 8b+ | 35m | |||||
38 |
★★ Climbers Village
During the May and June breeding season please do not climb if Kestrels are nesting in the large hole. Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
39 |
★★★ Melcon
During the May and June breeding season please do not climb if Kestrels are nesting in the large hole Équip.: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mai 2022 | 7a+ | 35m, 17 |
1.9. E.T. 27 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 36.974968, 26.988934
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
KoukouvasA clean pocketed wall left of the small cave, about 400m left of the main wall. Facing north with shade almost all day. A cairned path leads left from near the gate about 100m below the main sector. Follow the blue dots. Shade after 10:00. | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ Zupp le Pingoin
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c | 25m | |||||
3 |
★★ Ouh Punaise
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
4 |
Balla Linda
Second pitch of 'Ouh Punaise'. Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
5 |
★★ Sylvie
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c | 20m | |||||
6 |
★★ Jako
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★ Manu
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 7a | 20m | |||||
8 |
★★ Et Defi Fit
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6c | 20m | |||||
9 |
★★ Titi
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★ Paty Fifty
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6b | 20m | |||||
11 |
★★ Lin Des 100
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6b | 20m | |||||
12 |
★★ Le Defi à Lisou
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2012 | 6a | 17m | |||||
Main ButtressShade after 12:30. | ||||||||
14 |
★★★ Daisy
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6b | 58m, 2 | |||||
15 |
★★ Anemone
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6b+ | 58m, 2 | |||||
16 |
★★ Iris
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6a+ | 30m | |||||
17 |
★★ Orchid
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6c+ | 65m, 2 | |||||
18 |
★★★ Ibiscus
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6b+ | 65m, 2 | |||||
19 |
★★ Poppy
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 7b | 20m | |||||
20 |
★★ Rose
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6b | 38m | |||||
21 |
★★ Lily
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6b | 35m | |||||
22 |
★★ Snowdrope
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2010 | 6a+ | 78m, 2 | |||||
23 |
★★ Silver Bells
Équip.: Dave Musgrove & Gil Peel, 2014 | 6b | 35m | |||||
CaveThe big cave right above the main wall. Shade all day. | ||||||||
25 |
Project
Équip.: Liam Halsey, 2011 | 30m | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Megolamania
Équip.: Neil Gresham, 2011 | 7b+ | 14m | |||||
27 |
★★★ Rebellion
Équip.: Neil Gresham & Simon Wadsworth, 2011 | 8a+ | 18m | |||||
28 |
★★★ Uprising
Équip.: Neil Gresham & Leah Crane, 2011 | 8b | 25m | |||||
29 |
★★★ Tyrant
Équip.: Neil Gresham, 2010 | 8a+ | 25m | |||||
30 |
★★★ Dura Mater
Équip.: Neil Gresham, 2010 | 8a+ | 23m | |||||
|
1.10. Rina 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 36.979676, 27.026855
description
Shade until 12:30.
approche
From parking (36.975266, 27.025280) to (a fence door36.976187, 27.026207) continue to a wide couloir (36.978219, 27.025795) and then straight up. See map. There should be some cairns.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Androsage
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 28m | |||
2 |
★★ Le Vin d’Ici
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6b | 26m | |||
3 |
★★ L'Au Delà
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6b+ | 24m | |||
4 |
★★ Lidl des Jeunes
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6c | 24m | |||
5 |
★★ Pierrot
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6b | 21m | |||
6 |
★★ Gloubi Boulga
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a+ | 23m | |||
7 |
★★ Tirli Pinpon
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 5c | 30m | |||
8 |
★★ Rasta Kekette
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 30m | |||
9 |
★★ Sisyphus
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a+ | 30m | |||
10 |
★★ Eole
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 30m | |||
11 |
★★ Immautumi
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 32m | |||
12 |
★★ N’Golo Golo
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 30m | |||
13 |
★★ Hakuna Matata
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 30m | |||
14 |
★★★ Hakuna Matata Ext
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 6a | 45m | |||
15 |
★★★ Ummagumma
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 5c | 35m | |||
16 |
★★★ Ummagumma Ext
Équip.: Claude Idoux, 2021 | 5c+ | 45m |
1.11. Vathy Fjord 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Psicobloc et Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 36.976543, 27.036242
description
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
HookA single line on the left side of the fjord, just after leaving the harbor. Belay from a boat that is tied both to the wall and an anchor in opposite direction of the sea current. Shade until 10:00. | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ Hook
Originally a double-pitch. Rebolted as a single-pitch route in 2022. Équip.: Ito Riva & Andrea Gelfi, 2001 Équip.: Fred Leconte, 2022 | 7c+ | 35m | |||||
Manolis DWSA small DWS cave at the left end of the fjord. Routes are between 8 and 12 meters high. Shade until 10:00. | ||||||||
4 | ★★ Left Bulging Lip of the Cave | 5c | 8m | |||||
5 | Traverse to the Right | 7b | 30m | |||||
6 | Roof on the Lip | 8b | 10m | |||||
7 | Small Roof, Sharp Finish | 7b | 12m | |||||
8 | ★★ Big Huecos | 6a | 11m | |||||
9 | ★★ Bulging Wall | 6a | 8m | |||||
Puerto EscondidoOn the right side of the fjord, visible from the harbor. | ||||||||
11 |
★★ Tremeur
Équip.: Unknown | 7a | 30m | |||||
12 |
★★ Bigaud
Équip.: Claude Idoux & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2013 | 6c | 30m | |||||
13 |
★★ Puerto Escondido
Équip.: Ito Riva & Andrea Gelfi, 2001 Équip.: Aris Theodoropoulos, 2013 | 7a | 30m | |||||
14 |
★★ Taupette
Équip.: Unknown | 6b | 30m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Socratic Swimming Lessons
Sea-level traverse at the right side of the fjord, starting at the end of the pier. Équip.: T Chubb, 2002 | 6a+ | 250m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Socratic Swimming Lessons Ext
Continue on at increasing difficulty. Équip.: T Chubb, 2002 | 7a+ | 350m | |||||
Cross | ||||||||
18 |
Come Vathy
Équip.: Franca Gabarrou & Patrick Gabarrou | 6c | 120m, 3 |
1.12. Little Eden 35 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 36.979358, 27.038418
description
Little Eden is a new, dreamy crag on the east coast of Kalymnos, near Rina/Vathy. It is a short photogenic cliff that sits just above a quiet beach north of the Vathy fjord. Locally, the beach is known as Kampí.
Little Eden is ideal for climbing on hot days. The cliff comes into the shade just before 12 o’clock noon. The green-blue waters shimmering below are reason enough to visit, even if climbing is not on the day’s itinerary. Perfect for afternoon climbing when the temperature is high and the heat too intense at other parts of the island. Avoid days with strong winds, especially out of the south and east.
50 meters from the beach, the cliff is orange, white, and grey limestone of very good quality and a height of up to 20-35 meters. The rock is strongly featured with pockets, some natural vertical cracks, and relatively sharp holds. It can be compared to sector The Beach in that the rock is sharp and mostly vertical.
There are 35 routes to-date, graded primarily between 6a-7b. The hardest routes (8a–8b?) are short with very tough boulder passages. There is potential for a few new routes but thorough cleaning of vegetation and loose rock is a prerequisite.
Information provided by Climb Kalymnos
approche
Little Eden is very easy to approach with a boat from Vathy. Go to the small port of Rina/Vathy and ask at the pier or the tavernas for somebody with a boat to take you to Kampí beach. Ask for the price, and don’t forget to also arrange for your return. Alternatively, if it’s not very windy and the water outside Vathy fjord is very calm, you can rent a kayak from KKC at the far end of the pier. (Small engine-powered boats are also for rent.) By boat, you will need 5-10 minutes to the beach. By kayak, 15-20 minutes. When you get to the beach, head to the left side, behind the trees. A narrow uphill path to the cliffs starts there. By foot you can reach the cliff at its right end in half an hour starting from the north side of the harbour heading the small chapel uphill then up to meet a fence that you have to cross and follow till the crag
historique
Little Eden was equipped in summer 2019 by the Austrian mountain guide Hannes Webhofer, with the help of a few others Kalymnian and foreign climbers. The Kalymnos Kayak Centre (KKC), a local business renting kayaks and boats, contributed transfers to and from the crag. The hardware used to equip Little Eden (bolts, hangers, and clippable lower-offs) was provided to Hannes Webhofer by Climb Kalymnos. This is made possible thanks to proceeds from the Kalymnos guidebook. Please continue to support their efforts.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Prima Ballerina
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a+ | 22m | |||
2 |
★★ Tiny Dancer
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c | 22m | |||
3 |
★★ Spirit Dance
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c+ | 20m | |||
4 |
★★ Dirty Dancing
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c | 20m | |||
5 |
★ Dance Party
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6a+ | 28m | |||
6 |
★★ Beginner’s Luck
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer & Luca Salsotto, 2019 | 5c | 20m | |||
7 |
★ Rock Star
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 5b+ | 18m | |||
8 |
★★ The Line
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a | 23m | |||
9 |
★ Pride and Joy
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6a+ | 23m | |||
10 |
★★★ Spider Hotel
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6b | 28m | |||
11 |
★★ All or Nothing
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
12 |
★★ Rebel Yell
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a | 30m | |||
13 |
★★ Soul Stripper
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a+ | 18m | |||
14 |
★★ Optical Illusion
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7c | 15m | |||
15 |
★★ Masters of Stone
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7c | 25m | |||
16 |
Fail to Send
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 8b | 15m | |||
17 |
Going Nowhere Fast
Grade to be confirmed. Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 8a - b | 10m | |||
18 |
★★ Seventh Heaven
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a | 20m | |||
19 |
★★ Cloud 9
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 7a | 27m | |||
20 |
★★★ Stone Romance
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6b+ | 25m | |||
21 |
★★★ Stone Monker
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6a+ | 28m | |||
22 |
★★ Stone Man
The route has been bolted by German climbers using the anchor of Stone warrior just to make a straight line At least would have been better to fix a new anchor Équip.: 2022 | 6b | 32m | |||
23 |
★★ Stone Warriors
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6a | 30m | |||
24 |
★ Stone Cold
Équip.: Thierry Bionda & Luca Salsotto, 2019 | 6a | 30m | |||
25 |
★ Raining Stones
Équip.: Luca Salsotto & André Langenbach, 2020 | 6a | 30m | |||
26 |
★★ Stone Island
Équip.: Luca Salsotto & André Langenbach, 2020 | 5c+ | 25m | |||
27 |
★★ Astonished
Alerte Roche: Loose block higher up Équip.: Luca Salsotto & André Langenbach, 2020 | 6a | ||||
28 |
★★ Living Stone
Easy start to technical finish. Has a second anchor higher up (in the roof) which seems like an extension. 6a only until first anchor. Équip.: Thierry Bionda & Pascal Bourgeois, 2020 | 6a | 25m | |||
29 |
Mixed Emotions
Équip.: Jürgen Rohrmann, 2019 | 6a | 25m | |||
30 |
★★ Spigola
Équip.: Luca Salsotto, 2019 | 6c+ | 30m | |||
31 |
★★★ Hidden Beauty
Équip.: Hannes Webhofer, Panormitis Platsis & Niels Abegglen, 2019 | 6c | 28m | |||
32 |
Contorto
Équip.: Luca Salsotto, 2021 | 6c+ | 15m | |||
33 |
★★ Storto
Équip.: Luca Salsotto, 2021 | 6c | 15m | |||
34 |
★★★ Orto
Équip.: Luca Salsotto & André Langenbach, 2021 | 6b | 15m | |||
35 |
Corto
Équip.: Luca Salsotto & André Langenbach, 2021 | 6a+ | 15m |