Left Side Rock climbing 19 线路 在 片区中

Climb the short wall between the two trees. Gain the dihedral ramp and follow it until you can work your way through the crux to reach the hand sized crack that splits the main face. Plug bomber gear until you reach the big rest ledge. Step back onto the face and clip the bolt. A few easy moves lead to the top ledge with a bolted anchor on the half wall.

About 20 m left of sport routes on big slab. Start at the lowest point on the left corner of the slab. Make a series of moves trending left requiring good balance and slab technique until you can gain a small ledge with a horizontal seam of black rock and a small roof above. Use the black rock to pull up to and go left around the roof into a dihedral. Use the lip of the sloping ledge on your right and pull over it to find the bolted anchor (or option to step left and clip lone bolt on BrOkleys and carry on to that anchor).

Leftmost climb in this grouping, about 2 m left of "Steady as she goes". Up the large slab with a weakness trending left. Climb past a ledge and through the chimney to the bolted anchor. Decent protection throughout.

Recleaned September 2022 but could use another pass.

Start on the built dirt platform and head the low angle slab on the left. No real hard moves. The crux will be finding all the gear placements to keep your head cool. The route mostly takes nuts, including offsets, and will test your IQ on using them.

There were doubts about needing to bolt this climb. However, on the FA, 9 pieces of gear went in...

Gain the right trending blocks and then up past the piton and two bolts. Continue into the distinct crack and pull onto the large ledge near the top. Finish with a couple of moves up the crack to the bolted anchor just below the trees.

[Closed Project]

Start a few meters left of the dihedral. Follow the rightward trending cracks and step into the dihedral when they run out. Once on top of the dihedral, do some nifty moves to gain the bulge above by going just a bit left (two bolts here). Then traverse back right to get to the exit crack and the bolted anchor. Guessing that most the route goes around 5.8 but the bit that is bolted is likely 10-.

[Closed project]

Start in the dihedral left of "From Kingston with Love". Up and left to the big ledge. Then move right onto the face and continue ever upward to a wide ledge and a bolted anchor. Might be around 5.9.

[Closed Project]

Potential route through face just right of the new bolted route. Depending on the exact line could be around 5.10b?

Needs to be bolted and cleaned a lot more.

Start on Brokedown Palace. At the fifth bolt, cut left across the roof then head up a technical, crimpy crux before mantling onto a large ledge. Look left and finish up the inside corner.

Hardware provided through a climbing community fundraiser.

Follow the line of bolts up to the right of a small roof, then start plugging gear as you make your way up a diagonal of right facing flakes. At the large horizontal crack, look for the weakness that’ll take you straight up the steep face above.

Originally led ground-up with a pin or two – which were then replaced by bolts (the existing second and fourth). Additional bolts were added to the start in 2022 with the FA’s permission.

Start at a tree beneath the overhanging wall about 5m left of Termagant Dihedral. Climb the dead tree until you can step across onto the slab. Climb the nice slab on good rock until it is possible to escape right before the roof. Better protection and easier climbing to the right may be possible if slab is cleaned.

Start at the tree grouping about 30 feet left of the obvious arrete. Make your way up and right to reach the crack system. From here, the climbing gets gradually harder. The original FA went through the roof, but escaping right is possible making it a number grade easier. Beautiful movement on beautiful rock!

Modern free variation of Training for the Alpine

Not a sport route! Recommend stick clipping first bolt. Start on the right side of this very distinct aréte, delicately dance to the left and up past another bolt. Step left into a small groove from which some stellar crack climbing starts. Follow the crack up and then left to finish on a pedestal, bolted anchor. Single rack.

Accessible from the top by lowering from the rap-in anchor (see decription for Termagant Dihedral) and aiming climbers left.

Just right of a very distinct arete. Start up the crack in the dihedral and eventually escape the big overhang to the left and to the bolted anchor. Historically rated 5.8, but is comparable to 5.10b climbs in the area.

As of October 2022 there is a rapel anchor to lower to the top of this climb. Follow the trail all the way past the right end of the cliff, then head up and back along the top until you find a rope leading down a drop onto a good ledge and to that anchor. Termagant Dihedral's anchor is straight down, about 15 m. You can also easily access the anchor for Open Book / Hanging Dihedral, slight climbers right, and much higher than Termagant's.

Climb Termagant Dihedral and instead of exiting left, do a tricky traverse to the right below the roof, to a stance at the base of the open book. Climb the aesthetic finger crack that eases higher up and ends at the ledges with a 2 bolt anchor shared with the Hanging Dihedral. Bring a few long slings for the traverse.

Recleaned December 2022.

This climb starts at the base of the huge boulder that divides the "Left Side" and "Right Side". The first climbs at "Right Side" are right next to this one, but start on top of the huge boulder right of this climb.

Start behind a large arrowhead shaped block that threatens to turn you into a hand puppet the higher you climb past it. Climb atop the block, then up the thin flakes to the first bolt, then pull onto the face to reach a stance. Continue past a large hollow looking flake then make delicate face moves to reach the first overlap. A few thrilling moves with bolts take you up and right to the base of the right-facing hanging dihedral. Continue up dihedral and make awkward exit to the left onto the large ledge shared with Open Book. Climb ledges to the shared 2-bolt anchor (30m rap).

Can be top-roped with some rope-drag by accessing the anchor from above using the rap-in anchor. Recleaned December 2022.