★★★ Termagant Dihedral 5.10b

Grade context: US
Length: 20m
Ascents: 11

Flora and Fauna: FALCON CLOSURE

Peregrine falcons are nesting on the cliff. The closure will likely remain until mid to late summer when the falcon chicks have fledged. In the mean time please climb at one of the other wonderful crags Calabogie has to offer.

See warning details and discuss

Created 9 weeks ago - Edited 7 weeks ago

description

Just right of a very distinct arete. Start up the crack in the dihedral and eventually escape the big overhang to the left and to the bolted anchor. Historically rated 5.8, but is comparable to 5.10b climbs in the area.

As of October 2022 there is a rapel anchor to lower to the top of this climb. Follow the trail all the way past the right end of the cliff, then head up and back along the top until you find a rope leading down a drop onto a good ledge and to that anchor. Termagant Dihedral's anchor is straight down, about 15 m. You can also easily access the anchor for Open Book / Hanging Dihedral, slight climbers right, and much higher than Termagant's.

Route history

4 Aug 1998	First free ascent: Steve Adcock & Ron Halka

Warnings

31 Mar 2024	Warning Flora and Fauna: FALCON CLOSURE

Location

Lat/Lon: 45.26357, -76.77369

Grade citation

5.10b	Assigned grade
	★★★Simon McMillan
5.10d [5.10b - 5.11a] ++	grAId
5.8	David Gibbs

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 83 from 10 ratings.

Difficulty - 5.10b

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 4 ratings.

Suggested Grade

5.9
5.10a
5.10b

Based on 4 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight	3	3
Flash	2	2
Red point	2	2
Attempt	2	2

Comment keywords

hands fist fingers rest smooth face roof crack tricky good beautiful great classic amazing crux

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Ontario Climbing: Volume 2 The Northern Escarpment

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Buy

ⓘ

Ontario Climbing: Vol 1 The Southern Escarpment

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

Buy

ⓘ

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Photos

Upload a photo of route

Mon 5 Jun

Check out what is happening in Termagant Dihedral.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

Ticks by climbers like you
Discussions of the community
Updates to the index by our users
and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!