Thanks to Aidan for the clean! The closest thing to quarry climbing you'll get here. The big midway flake is now starting to hinge outward at its midpoint, it needs to be removed soon.
Committing. Up the slab solo until the corner and #1 nut. A cam behind the cruxflake is avoidable with a decent blue totem in a small flaring slot at its bottom right, ball nut in a thin crack a bit below and right (didn't have any), and a nut in the flake at half height, then a stance and gear above. Top of the flake definitely flexing a little. A #4 wouldn't hurt at the top (didn't have that either).
Skipped the retrobolts, it's a long way to that first corner and tiny gear but the unprotected start slab felt more assured this time. A very nervy but rewarding lead, though there is now a suspect block about halfway up the corner. Ball nuts were helpful to backup the gear around that.
Scary. Attempted as described in the guide, with no protection for the balancy moves up the slab until established in the corner 10m or so up. That was a bit tense, would probably clip the first 2 bolts on Great Scott next time. Thereafter through the corner the gear is smallish, stances quite spaced and not all of it is ideal. Got quite run out bridging and laybacking.
- with
Justin Wimmer