攀登 in Africa by Joshua Noble having trad-cpr 或 ascent-date

The pillar which used to be the start of the first pitch has fallen down, leaving 10m of good crack and then a tricky move up into a stem box with reasonably secure protection on the left side.

P1: Look for two very enticing cracks at the base of a large toppled pillar. You should start on the one on the right, which leads up 10m and then stops. We used the left crack which then meant some shenanigans around the arete and into the right crack, this is not recommended. When you take the right crack, place gear where it stops and then work up and into stems, using the seam by your left foot for protection (BD 0.3, 0.5, 1, 2 will do it). At the top of the box on the left will be a large loose flake, avoid touching it. This joins the original route at the ledge up to your left with a piton still in place, which makes a comfortable belay. Very fun climbing. I'd give it a hard YDS 5.10+ but as it cleans up it will feel less sketchy.

P2: We aided the roof on P2, it would go clean at YDS 5.11+ on insecure pro. Incoming thunderstorms meant we didn't want to puzzle on it for too long.

P3: Grassy chossy walk-traverse to the right, keep an eye out for a reasonable corner with a crack above you. Loose flakes and blocks abound.

P4: Swim through dirt and grass to belay from trees at the top.

Sketchy gear, very thin moves up to the roof, even more thin after. Go right immediately after the roof or it gets even more run out and desperate. I didn’t go right and it felt harder than E2 but what do I know. Bring a BD #2 cam for the pigeon hole and small/micronuts for everything else. Past the roof there's really no pro for the delicate moves up to the ledge and if you fall it's quite likely that you'll deck.

Desperately in need of some cleaning but some very fun climbing.

The hornets are super chill, don’t let them scare you off.

If doing the offwidth at P3 free, bring at least 1 large off-fist cam (e.g. Black Diamond Camalot #4 and a second might not be a bad idea) and 2 fist size pieces (e.g. Black Diamond Camalot #3) to protect. Nothing larger is necessary but the climbing is quite hard. The quantity of bird and bat poop in the crack is truly amazing and tape is highly recommended. We didn't tape up and regretted it because the slickness of the walls from animal droppings makes the jamming much much more difficult than it would be on clean rock.

Essentially unprotected for the interesting first 6m or so, be wary unless you're feeling both comfortable and bold.

Don't bother trying to jam that crack, this ain't Indian Creek. Fun start.