线路 in Africa for selected grade

Starts right of the small roof. This route (apparently) has its own chains, but they may be difficult to lower off (may need to abseil). Alternatively finish at the chains the routes to the left share.

Shares the chains with all the routes from Hedge Hopper to and including Unconformity.

Starts below the left side of the small roof. Break out of the left side of the roof and continue up the face until merging the Hedge Hopper.

Follow the crack to chains at the top.

Chains are in bad shape.

Starts on Disciplinary Hearing to the first bolt and then climbs left, between The Travel Desk and Disciplinary Hearing. Clip the third bolt before moving left out of the corner.

On the far right of the Dyno-Soar wall. One of the longer climbs at Umgeni. It has a nice mix of climbing. Last 1/3rd eases up, so keep going. Yay! another easier climb at Umgeni.

Climb the crack until the chains beneath the aloes.

A great route with some varied and interesting climbing.

Climbs the obvious off-width/chimney.

Powerful start.

Variation of Africa Farewell.

On the other side of the open book is another one facing it. Scramble onto a dusty ledge. A bit contrived. Get the best value by face climbing it and avoiding stepping onto the other face.

Description courtesy of Peckham, Camp, et al.

P1: the crux of the route, it requires good balance and precise footwork to dance between crystals, crimps and thin footholds. It's more of a face-climb than of a slab. Delicate, hard to read and exilarating (19/6a+). Note: the third bolt is slightly too far to the right. It currently makes for an awkward clipping for short climbers but it is not unsafe.

P2: climb the slab diagonally. This pitch leans right towards a comfortable stance (14/4c).

P3: follow the finger-crack until it runs out, then move right and climb over two bulges to gain the chains (15/5a).

SCRAMBLE: easy scramble to the top. There is only one bolt to protect the first move, then it's basically just a walk to the chains (next to a tree).

The Lebowski Line is the first sport route to be opened on Old Baldy's upper dome, which looks like it might offer a few other good lines with hard starts. Linking one of the routes on the lower dome with The Lebowski Line would make for a groovy day out.

Start in the same corner as Come Short.

1. Climb the corner to a large rail. Traverse left for two metres, pull up and move left to the base of a huge recess. Climb this moving right at one point to avoid a roof. Traverse right at the top of the recess to a good stance.

2. From the stance, move up for two metres to an overhanging recess with a peg. Climb up around the bulge to a ledge. Finish slightly left.

Start seven metres left of Warchild.

1. Climb through a small overhang up diagonally right to a large ledge and cave.

2. Move up to the left-hand side of the cave and rail right to break through another overhang and exit.

Monteseel’s longest route, including nine pitches and approximately 200 metres of climbing, it traverses most of the Central Buttress. The climb was possibly opened in 1972 by Dave Cheesmond and Paul Bridgman using aid to avoid existing climbs. The current route follows sections of existing routes to eliminate any aid. Starts at the base of the Pot Boiler crack.

1. Traverse across the Hot Plate face to the end of the No Thoroughfare traverse. Reverse this to reach the Fall Out ledge (12).

2. Traverse past the tree and continue across the Hallucination face to the large flake on Pin Up. Reverse the Adam’s Apoplexy Variation traverse to stance on Adam’s Apoplexy (19).

3. Move around the corner and drop down to reverse the Nog High traverse to the tree (13).

4. Continue across the No Feet face and move around the corner onto the Think face. Traverse at the level of the fixed peg on Think to make a difficult handswing from a small layback hold to reach Adam. Move across the Cain face to stance above the start of Republican (19).

5. Traverse as for the 1st pitch of Republican to stance on the big ledge (13).

6. Climb as for Republic Left Break from the big ledge to the corner. Do not move up to the flake, but continue left on small holds to reach the end of the Pendulum traverse. Reverse this to reach the Pendulum stance (18).

7. Traverse left and drop down to reach the Zig Zag ledge. Move to the end of the ledge and stance at the tree (13)

8. Traverse across the face that forms the second pitch of Zig Zag to a stance above a roof. Reach down and left to a layback hold which enables one to reach a handrail under the roof. Continue left past Top Heavy to stance near Pilgrim’s Progress (15).

9. Climb the open book just to the right of Pilgrim’s Progress.

Start up the centre of the face just to the right of the No Thoroughfare corner/crack. Move up and left to reach a left-slanting, off balance crack. Alternatively, and more popularly, pull up on a jug to the right of the No Thoroughfare crack and move up and right to gain the left-slanting crack. Climb this until it is possible to move up left to a position under the roof which is split by a crack. Jam in the roof and reach around to good holds on the face above. Pull through and then finish up easy rock to the right.

A fine introduction to the subtleties of a roof crack. The moves up to the overhang were done together with Dave Cheesmond and Roy Gooden in 1978, and provide a sustained first section in keeping with the rest of the climb. A lot of 'pretenders' climb the No Thoroughfare corner to reach the roof - this is definitely 'not cricket'

Very tricky and pumping for its grade. Starts from a boulder below the middle of the Republican traverse. Pull up from the boulder and continue directly up the wall, going through four successive roofs to the top. Whew!

Strenuous and technical, but well protected and offering a variety of climbing on good rock. Deserves more ascents. Start in a corner capped by a huge roof.

Climb the right hand side of the corner and then traverse left onto a ledge. Climb up to a recess and crack which is climbed to a large rail (sustained). Traverse left for two metres and move up diagonally right to a left-slanting recess which is followed to the top.

The line follows an old aid route, Shisa Ikanda, opened by Tony Dick and Roger Fuggle back in the mists of time. Start at the bottom end of the Owl ledge.

Step down onto the face and traverse out left to the end onto the cruddy rock. Climb up the crack via laybacks to the blocky ledge. Move diagonally up right (crosses Space Truckin’) to below the obvious recess. Avoid this by stepping left and exiting up the next recess.

Climb the left-hand side of the wall to the left of Tantalus. A layback crack is followed near the top. The original line is uncertain.

A worthwhile route with a technical second pitch. Start five metres to the right of Eskumbu.

1. Climb up to a small overhang and pull through this into a short recess. Continue up this recess to the foot of a big crack. Climb this to a good stance.

2. Climb up the big open book until it is possible to traverse across the right hand face to the corner. Continue up this to the top.

First opened with two points of aid on the first pitch and subsequently freed by Mike Roberts, Ladson Hayes and Roy Gooden in 1976. Good climbing and well worth doing, with a great handswing on the second pitch.

1. Climb a broken face into a small recess. Climb this past a peg and continue up over a section of bad, but easy rock to a stance at the base of an open book.

2. Climb the open book to an obvious rail. Traverse left onto the steep wall using the foot rail until a crack is reached. Climb this for three metres and then handswing across a steep wall to a resting point. Climb easily to the top.

A good route but difficult to protect, especially on the lower section where a crater is possible. Start one metre right of Microphobia. Climb the face to the same level as the large overhang. Traverse right and move up onto the corner. Climb into a recess and follow this to a ledge. Finish up a short face and the corner on the left.

A good route on a fine wall. Sustained, but well protected. Take the small recess about two metres right of Generation Gap. Climb up the recess for three metres and move into the corner. Traverse out right to a shallow crack on the wall and climb this to a rail. Move slightly right and pull onto the face above to exit.

Start as for Youngster’s Line. Move diagonally right for a few metres and then straight up to a rail. Move right to a block/spike. Continue up and left, finishing up the groove.

Start as for Black Diedre. Climb up to a small ledge on the right (peg) and then on up to a small roof. Move right for two metres then pull through the roof and continue to the top.

Takes the wall just right of Mother’s Day. Protection is tricky

Thirty metres right of the scramble is a recess with a tree at its base. Climb the crack on the right hand side of the recess, moving onto a block beneath a small roof. Pull through roof and finish directly up the face above.

Climbs the face and cracks between C’est la Bon and Alien sex Fiend. Step down from the blocks and onto the face. Climb up the face past two pegs to a rail. Follow the cracks to the top.

• A must-do. Very varied climbing. There is a new bolt below the 2 pegs mentioned which was added when the peg it replaced was smashed out in mysterious circumstances. Start by scrambling down to the left of the C’est La Bon lunch blocks onto a ledge. You can make it a 20m climb by scrambling down to ground level and using the same start as the next climb – a very large loose block has been removed at the cost of some skin.

Excellent line, creative climbing. Crux near top. may get a bit sand after rain near the top.

Follows the line through the small roof. The route is long, tie a knot in the end of your rope.

Balancy start with a slight kick before you go into some easier climbing to the chains. Easier if you use the tree.

A short route to the left of Zohan. Best to clean the route on abseil. There is a lot of rope abrasion so best not to top rope this route. Bolted on lead.

Climbs the off-width crack that starts ±25m up the route The route can be climbed in two pitches or you can make it back to the ground with an 80m rope. Make sure to tie a knot in the other end. If you climb it in one go don't clip into the lower-offs as this creates a lot of rope drag.

Follow the base of the crag all the way left and around the corner ±50m past 'Wussy Ladder' Super fun sustained climbing it gets flakey at the top.

Start between the 17 and 18 route traverses accrosse the main face to belay stance over the bulge second pitch finishes off on chains of Under my Wing

The excellent open book closes to the waterfall, has chains. Awaits a retro bolt.

The run-out slightly on angle route after the buttress. A head game, first opened on trad with 3 pieces.

This route follows a line between Groovy and Dirt bag groove. Start at the same spot as “Snakeskin Arête” but instead of climbing diagonally right, head left up the obvious ramp below the huge roof that is about 60 meters up.

1. 55m, 15 Climb the corner of the ramp until forced out left by the steeper ground and some poor looking rock. Head diagonally left towards the arête and take a stance on the arête at some blocks.

2. 25m, 19 Traverse back into the corner then out on the face to the crack that goes up to the bulge. Climb the crack to below the bulge then traverse right on big flat edges and step down onto the arête. Step across the open book and climb that to the ledge.

3. 55 m, 17 Climb the layback crack and then step right onto the arête. Climb diagonally left to below big corner that turns into a chimney higher up. Climb to below the chimney then traverse left onto the face. Climb the face to the top.

Note: Third pitch is brilliant exposed climbing. Would be worthwhile to try and go through the bulge. There is good gear. It will be hard though.

Variation of WELL OILED MACHINE - replace pitches 4&5, keep 1-3 and 6-7 common