攀登 in Left Wall

With John himself, Adam and Brian . . .

A hard route to rate, quality-wise. P1 (access pitch) is scary climbing on mossy, vegetated choss with big runouts between average gear. The overhanging offwidth at the end is engaging climbing. P2 (the 50m Chimney) Money Pitch is the best body-squeeze psuedo-chimney I've ever done (climbing wise), BUT the rock is rubbish (which isn't SUCH a big problem in a chimney) with giant runouts between average gear placements. I found fitting into it hard with my huuuuuge legs, and ended up climbing it like an offwidth. P3 (exit pitch) has a crap start on teetering blocks, but ended with a brilliant slick body-squeeze offwidth on great rock. Quite bold, and old-fashioned desperate (don't underestimate a grade 18 Chimney!!! Especially when your 8m up from your last bit of very average gear), but far from terrible. Unrelated to the ACTUAL climb, we ended up off-route at the end of the Money Pitch on virgin dogface megapox (it's a long story how we ended up there...), and I managed to rip off a cubic meter of rock (which filled the chimney and corner system with clouds of orange sand as it disintegrated) and took a terrifying fall on an utterly hideous megachoss belay. Yah, it was gripping.