线路 in Ebor Gorge

Start: The arête immediately left of ‘International Womens Year Cracks’.

Extremely technical climbing up a blunt vertical arête.

Up past three fixed hangers to a slight rest and a small cam placement (Alien or TCU). Continue past a fourth fixed hanger to top.

Belay off tree further back.

Start: 3m right of ‘Talk of the Town.

Up twin cracks to ledge, then through bulge to top.

Start: Right of ‘Rattlesnake’, the last climb on the Second Breakaway.

Bolt belay at start. Up past 2BR’s and some natural pro to a double bolt anchor on the ledge at top.

Start: The arête right of ‘Contrivia’ and left of ‘Fear And Loathing’. “Like shimmying up a Fridge”. Up the arête past wires in the crack and two fixed hangers. Belay off double bolts at top.

A stellar test piece. Start 5m R of ST. Up the sustained finger crack to roof. Step R and bust straight up over the bouldery bulge through obvious features.

Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.

The first ascent caused some local controversy because the bolt is too close to Cheap Vendetta and makes it safer. Start: The arête just left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the arête, via a single bolt runner, to top.

“I’ll cry if I want to”.

Start: About 3m left of ‘Prime Cut’.

Up the crack to top.

Starts 6m L of CFWTPB. Up finger crack to hands where crack widens. Follow obvious line up to a short, broken, featured head wall. Up and out to finish. Big tree belay 10m from edge.

Originally all aid ( M2), but was freed by John Lattanzio and Tim Balla in June 1986.

Start: 1m left of ‘Narcissus’.

Up the thin crack in the corner.

Start: As for ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’.

Up short corner to ledge, then up thin crack at the back of the ledge.

Start: 2m Right of ‘Pretty Vacant’, a wall then out right to the arête.

Straight up past 2 BR’s , then move right with difficulty onto the arête, and up past two more BR’s to exit left to double hangers w/ rap rings.

Start: About 12m right of ‘Navvy’.

Up crack to ledge, then continue up off width.

Shares the start with 'Booster Transfer', Up the right crack

Up a good hand crack past native raspberries, into cruxy rooflet, then flaring jams to top

Layback and stem up thin technical crack, then through hand crack to a chimney rest. Then traverse right on fists and slopers through the stunningly improbable cavelet which is an intermittent falcon nest and then linking into the last move of Tree Beard

Arete route with a mixed bag of everything. Thin layback then up arete through several horizontals

Start: The obvious offhand crack left of the big ugly offwidth.

Originally done with an aid rest which was freed on the second ascent by M.Colyvan and E.Sharpe Dec 1981.

Up crack to top.

Start: 5m left of ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’; obvious finger crack capped by roof.

Originally 17M1 with the lower thin crack aided and the roof free but was freed by R.Curtis and J.Kelman Nov 1976.

Up finger to handjam crack and through roof to top.

The second line you arrive at when walking into 3rd breakaway. Starts in thin obvious line above a ferny natural spring. Strenuous fingery moves, jamming and technical bridging. Plug away up twin cracks and use double ropes for peace of mind. Big tree belay 10m from edge. A hard route for short arses.

Start:The first real line you come to at the end of the descent path through the 'jungle'. The scimitar shaped crack. Up onto the top of the trunkated column, fight the blackberry and up leftward-leaning curved crack to top.

Start: 4m right of ‘Last Straw’, a short wall in an alcove.

Up wall past 3BR’s to double bolt belay on ledge.

Start: About 4m left of ‘Amphetamine Annie’ (approx 10-15m right of ‘Fingers’).

Up thin crack, taking care with wire protection down low, then easier wide crack to top.

Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête.

Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).

Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger’.

Up the crack.

Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find).

Originally all aid (M1) however all but the first four points (bolts) were eliminated by Al Stephens and Graeme Stewart in August 1986.

Start: From the tree nearest the waterfall.

4 bolts for M1 aid to gain thin crack, then free to top.

Up widening hand-fist crack then into thinner crack to roof, through hand crack bulge over the roof with a spicy finish.

Start: The thin crack just to the left of ‘Lethal Dose’. Was yo-yoed to some extent by Birchall and Clark on its first ascent.

Up thin crack, trend slightly leftwards into hand/offhand crack, then directly to top.

Start: The most obvious looking line (thin crack) in the middle of the buttress.

An aid rest about two thirds the way up was eliminated during the second ascent by M.Colyvan and Al Stephens, Jan 1983.

Up thin crack and wall above.

Start: 3m left of ‘Rooflet’.

One of the more interesting Ebor routes.

Up knuckle/hand crack to wall moves at top.

Start: 3m left of Proteus.

Originally done with two aid rests, these were eliminated by M.Colyvan and E.Sharpe, Mar 81.

Up the finger crack to just before chossy overhang, step up then out left around bulge and on to top.

Start: 1m left of ‘Aeroplane Jelly’.

Up fist/offwidth crack to a horizontal break a few metres from the top. An 'interesting' couple of moves right lead into the crack of Aeroplane Jelly. Finish up the last few moves of Aeroplane Jelly.

Start: The line immediately left of ‘Fully Furnished Dustbin’.

Up crack with an exciting finish

Originally done with a single point of aid (19M0) at the start of the crack, this was eliminated on the second ascent by A. Legler, M. Colyvan, and E. Sharpe Nov 1980 ]

In Feb 94 Dick Baker aided the direct start.

Start: As for ‘potato Picker’.

Up to ledge as for ‘Potato Picker’ then traverse 2m left around the arête to a crack. Follow crack to top.

Start: The arête/wall between ‘Fear and Loathing’ and ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Up the arête/wall avoiding the cracks on either side and passing 3 BR’s and a #1 1/2 Friend placement. Some wires also useful.

Start: The sharp arête between ‘Ivory Stairs’ and ‘Submission’.

Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if an anchor is required, which also services climbs 16 - 20 (take bolt plates).

Start: The arete/wall immediately R of‘Epileptic Chimney’ above boulder.

Step off boulder and up wall trending left to arête at half height. Balance up arête to top, using friend in break and 2 bolts for pro.

Start: The small, 1m roof near the left-hand end of the cliff, 15m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up crack under roof, clip bolt then surmount roof, and continue past a break to top. Belay on trees further back

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up hand jam to off width crack.

A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.

Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.

Start: About l0m left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the slightly flared crack to belay as for Dead Calm.

Start: As for ‘The Removalist’.

Up the crack as for ‘The Removalist’ until the diagonal, then step left into thin crack/corner.

Follow crack/corner through small roof to top.

A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982.

Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist’.

Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist’.

Start: 1m right of ‘Brijit’.

Up the crack with the bush/tree growing out of it.

Up the wider fist crack. Slightly off-width in parts and a steep finish. Eats blue cams.

Start on shoulder high block, up twin cracks then right onto ledge (crux) then up left crack

Hop onto the block, then traverse across the angled slab, and then the real route starts half way up. Great gear and a spicy finishes

Start: 1m left of Hangover.

Up hand/fist crack.

Start: Next line left of ‘Domination Quickstep’.

Originally done with a single aid rest but was freed on its second ascent by B.Birchall and E.Sharpe, Feb 1982.

Up fine crack to horizontal break; difficult step into crack on left, follow this to top.

Start: On the other side of the waterfall left of ‘Sleight of Hand’, a gradually widening finger crack.

Follow crack to top.

Start: About 15m left and around the corner from ‘Brown Buffalo’ and about 10m right of the waterfall.

Thin jams to roof, then good jams to difficult exit.

Start: 1m left of ‘Backdoor Man’.

An impressive 1.5m roof, an Ebor classic.

Up to roof, around left-hand side into jam crack. Follow this to ledge and then on to top.

Start: 10m left of ‘Knuckleduster’.

Throws off many a leader.

Good jams to a small roof, followed by layaways to top.

Start: Directly right of ‘Backdoor Man’.

Originally done with an aid rest which was freed by M. Colyvan and G. Croft, July 8

Bridge and jam up through roof to top.

Thin start protected by a tiny cam just where you want your hand. Up face through 3 bolts avoiding the easier cracks to both sides. Finish with gear as for 'Fox Trot'.

Start: 5m left of ‘It’s My Party’.

Hand jams to bulge, around bulge and then on to top.

Start: The line immediately left of ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’.

Up crack, trending to offwidth. Mix 'n' match fingerlocks in lefthand crack with offwidth technique on the right. IMPORTANT:- There is currently a large loose block sitting at the top of the offwidth section so climb past it with extreme care (or abseil first and get rid of it). Finish straight up easily but scarily, or do as the first ascentionists did - traverse right onto ledge near top and climb small finishing wall.

Start: 5m left of ‘Haggis Hole’.

This climb no longer exists. See notes on Haggis Hole.

Start: 1m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up crack then under cling left.

Start: 2m left of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short wall, then finger crack through bulging central section.

Start: About 3m right of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short corner to ledge, then take thin twin cracks on the right which lead to a wider crack above.

Start: This is the easy-angled corner with a small tree at 2/3 height. (6m left of ‘The Joker’ and about 3m right of Polynesian Lady). Much more interesting than it looks.

The climb was originally graded 19 because of lack of protection near the ground. There is now a good wire placement about halfway between the ground and the small tree so perhaps there is a case for reviewing the grade.

Up corner with incipient crack.

Start: Fist crack a few metres right of ‘Navvy’.

Up the crack.

Start: First good looking line on the cleaner rock.

Up fist/hand crack to top.

3m up to left, then up the left fist crack widening to offwidth. Avoiding the right crack

Left of the little rooflet, up clean splitter with block at 1/3rd height

Up the perfect left splitter and step right on top of column. Gradually gets harder until the spicy finish

Up fist crack onto ledge, then up wider crack with great knees

Start: Left of ‘Seedy’.

Up twin cracks, difficult at top.

Start: Left of broken Glass’.

Up the curving, leaning crack

Start: The first crack line you come to.

Up wall to ledge, bridge right off tree to get into crack. Follow this to top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Capillary’.

Hand jam your way through the double roofs, then up slightly overhanging and loose wall to top (as for ‘Capillary’).

Start: 1m right of ‘Inspiration Point’. As for ‘Capillary’.

As for ‘Capillary’ but instead of moving right at the top of the crack, traverse left into crack which leads up over roof.

Start: The first line from the left-hand end of the cliff.

Up fine, steep finger crack to roof. Finish as for ‘Capillary Direct’.

Start: 4m right of Solid Gold’.

Follow the crack to the top.

Start: left of ‘Jungle Gym’.

Originally done with an aid rest freed by E. Sharpe and B. Birchall June 1981.

Hand jam crack to top.

Start: 2m left of ‘Double Trouble’.

Up thin hand crack and wide groove above.

Start: 3m left of ‘Fidget’.

Originally done with an aid rest at 3/4 height, this was eliminated on the second ascent by M. Colyvan, Mar 1981.

Up off width to top.

Start: 4m left of ‘Pride of Errand’.

Good jams to slightly overhung top section.

Start: 1m left of ‘Brian’s Squeeze’.

Hard overhung off-width to start, then easier jamming to top.

Start: Left of ‘Recommended Retail Price’.

Up thin crack splitting protruding block then wider crack to top.

Start: To the left of ‘Failsafe’.

Up short fist crack to small gully.

Start: 2m left of ‘Brown Dirt Cowboy’.

Up finger crack with slight overhang and bush at top.

Start: 10m left of ‘Luce’.

Rightward trending crack to hand jam crack to top.

Start: Right of ‘Trix’ in yellow rotten section of cliff.

Fist to off width crack.

Start: 2m right of ‘Tristana’.

Fingery start followed by hand jam crack and off width finish.

Start: 2m right of ‘Redemption’ on terraces

Up wide crack to top.

Start: 10m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ on obvious terrace. Second crack from left on terrace.

Up thin crack to top.

Start: About 10m down left of ‘Potato Picker’. A small tree is growing out of the crack at half height.

Up crack to top.

Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Large log below start.

Fingery crack that closes near the top.

Start: Crack R of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Preferably use double ropes!.

Up crack till it stops at half height, traverse L with small pro and finish up ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up ‘Blinky Bill’ for a move or two then face climb right to bottom of incipient crack. Up crack to top.

Better than it looks.

Start: 1m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up the wide crack, over bulge, then narrow crack to exit, left and belay as for Sucking Faces.

‘Little wonder no-one’s done it’ - Because it's so short.

Start: In the bottom of ‘Rolling Stones’ corner.

Climb diagonally left up flake and around rib to make a long reach for finger crack. Move up then step left to finish.

Start: A small slabby wall enclosed by two boulders. Bolt runners and wires needed. Bridge up past the slab, clip BR then move up the wall/arête to the bulge. Wire the crack then move up over the bulge, clipping another BR.

Belay right back on trees.

Stonking good hand jams up to the top of the pillar, then an easy slab to tree belay

Has a perfect starting hand crack the eases into the top. Probably should have a star if it was cleaned fully.