线路 in North Shore

Left of LF is a hard overhanging seam with 2 BRs, as yet unclimbed (1991).

#Dangerous. This climb has a giant loose block above the bolts that appears to be balanced on a small chockstone. If you pull on it or snag the corner with a rope it may rip out. You have been warned.

Right end off wall. Up crack to slab passing 2 BRs, horizontal break and up to top. DBB on top.

Start: 1m left of the arete. Up wall via breaks.

Up cave to full body rest on sandy ledge, turn out to jam crack, then big moves up the lichen layback. Beware the chockstone that goes "boomp" and any other loose bits.

Up crack head left to FH, up wall past 2nd FH, cam in break and continue to top.

Still waiting to get back and replace the old hanger.

Start: 4m left of the arete, right of tree half way up wall. Up grey wall with great edges to mini corner via breaks.

Traverse right from the runnel then up via fine firm edges and lips.

Traverse the break at 3m from left to right with bomber cams.

Start: Left of tree half way up wall. Up grey wall with great edges via breaks.

Start just left of large scoop, up and slightly right then follow left side of runnel to top

Corner crack, exiting via wall to left, or clean out the leaf litter and go Over The Top. Gritty either way.

No doubt done before.

Follow line of least resistance/direct up crack centre of wall. good gear. Fun beginner trad route.

Start right of the arete (left of MAWS). Hard start past a bolt, then up the arete past another bolt and cams to the top. DBB. Bolted by previous party.

Line of least resistance up juggy wall with cams in breaks. Beware gritty slopes and missiles hurled from above. Might seem run out.

Big layback to start then jam deep into the dirty crack avoiding the ironstone face plates as much as possible.

Chimney and crack at left end of TCFTH wall. Mantle, short chimney then small roof and up crack to right. Solid pro in cracks and breaks, and tree belay.

Stiff move to start, up to traverse and exit up right side of cave via slung horns and bad rope drag. Cunning pro in pocket at base.

Starts to the left of the bolt ladder on ledge. Warning Loose Blocks. Up natural line of the crack heading left until meeting the finger crack.

(loweroffs will be installed September 2014)

Up short ramp to crux move, pull on to face. Easy up slab to top passing sandy cave on left.

Sandy diagonal crack.

Begin in the corner and moving right just below the little cave to then go straight up the face.

Start: Right end of cliff below bollard-like lump of rock. DBB

Start at BHOTM marking. Up using slots to pull onto face, unprotected slabby crux, very balancy. First bolt is quite high, possibly a cam placement lower in a pocket or horizontal break

Start: 2m L of Ept

Stem up flared and sometimes wet corner, or wall either side. 2 carrot belay on left ledge.

Corner crack that takes smaller gear than first appears: a 50-80mm cam or two will see you through some burly crackin'.

Start: 1m L of 'Rusted Iron', between boulder and wall. DBB.

Up to mantelshelf then up slab.

1m left of Weeping Corner. Pull through the roof on good holds past a very old rusty carrot. Then continue up black streak between orange scoops.

Start at the thin crack next to the chimney. Up to ledge step left then up nice finger crack to short headwall. (lower offs to be added September 2014)

Start about 3 m right of GOM move up over bulges then to arête and head up to single carrot then up to grumpy mans nose and top out. Cams and single bolt. Use same DBB as GOM

Start: Obvious crack L of PYMP4. DBB.

Go up the crack.

Gets it name from the feature at the top looking like an old mans face. Start in the middle of the slab. Up past two bolts until you reach the horizontal breaks. Move right to the old mans nose and then up to the top. Small to medium cams. DBB on top

The wide corner-crack with plenty of good gear and decent climbing - an easy trad lead. DBB on top or walk off. Probably done in the dark ages.

A steep start through hideous choss that leads to beautiful bomber orange sandstone. Don't let the start fool you! It's a stunner of a climb. It's roughly 20 from the ground up, for full value batman to first bolt and skip chossy beginning. 1 carrot on blank wall and medium sized cams in horizontal breaks. Two carrot belay.

Start in middle of slab on ledge. Bouldery move protected by bolt to start, then up slab following natural line using horizontal breaks for gear - make sure you take a 20-30mm cam. Carrot belay - one rusty and one new stainless.

Start as for T and move left once on ledge to arete and up to delicate slab finish. pink tricam on arete to prevent run out. 2 carrot belay.

Start at shallow crack. Up to ledge (bolt will be added to protect start) cams in pockets the up the arête. Thought provoking at the grade but a decent trad lead. DBB on top.

1st route on right wall after entering courtyard. Single ring protects the thin start. Move up to jugs and horizontals. Up to rounded top out. Small medium cams.

Easy corner with some stemming and good edges and ledges with solid rock despite some lichen. Tree belay at rock platform.

Could be a trad lead but not good pro.

Over the overhang on prolific pockets and continue north. Could be cams there for a bold lead.

Up to the flake and following it. Caution when placing pro in the vertical crack. Shared lower offs with Balance and Crimp.

Route on the right hand side of the slab. Broken slab with nice holds on the head wall. Most of this climb has been engulfed in vines and tree foliage. A rotting fixed line at the base of the slab (on the climber's right) presumably marks the original start of this climb. An ancient carrot in the centre of the head wall shows previous unrecorded climbing activity.

Follow massive jugs on right of black runnel to new DRBB lower-offs in runnel, or tree slightly back.

Start: 1m L of GFH. Good gear and takes wires well. Excellent lay back crack climb and well worth the effort. Toprope/lower-off anchor at top

One of the cracks in the boulders, who knows which?

Follow massive jugs on right end of wall. Finish by trending right to new DRBB lower-offs in black runnel, or for a bit of spice straight up via enormous horn runner and over lip to tree belay.

Start: 3m right of Osso Buffo.

Pockets to small cam break, slab to medium break, then the fabled W'oonga topout - slopes and grit!

The real white wabbit lives on the cliff top further to the right, but you may need to pull one out of the hat to trad this lead out!

Marked undecipherable initials. hard stemming start, to an easy ramp, followed by a steep and stunning orange head wall.

Belay off carrot and small bollard 2m back from lip.

BEWARE there is a snake hibernating on a ledge on the head wall (Brown Tree Snake, Aug 2017). it is possible to use the ledge and climb around the snake, just don't put your fingers in too deep into ledge and wake the snake!

The crack left of Clingwrapper.

Shared lower offs with Clingwrapper.

1m right of bolt ladder

Notice from route setters

Please do not climb this route until further notice. The starting holds are on a large flake; if this route sees a lot of traffic, the flake might break, making this climb several grades harder. Also, temporary bolts were used to set the route, which need to be replaced with glue-ins. Please be patient and help us conserve the crag so it can be enjoyed by people in the future.

Description Up the slab to the right of Trolls Arete. Thin balance moves past bolt to a sloper layback top out. Left arête is off.

Hard start to pleasant finish. Belay as for Weeping Corner/ The Crack.

Old climb marked with "faint" painted square 2m from right end of wall. Ironstone crimpies to hole, then right easily past good cams (and old ring and bolt holes). Bottom half has very poor protection. Various carrot anchors. Maybe 18 to toprope?

Climb the funky arete using the crack and breaks for solid pro. "Counterintuitive climbing."

Start as for DWTS and veer right at head wall for a direct finish.

Start between Corner Chimney and Bolt Ladder. Up slight bulge then smooth headwall.

Right side of arete via solid jugs and breaks past one unnecessary old carrot at the top.

Easier start to CTOB, following the upper blind crack just right of it.

Clearly an old project, identified by rusty expansion bolt and fixed hanger below fused corner and roof. Past the bolt and trend right.

Up slab right of SS. Another of those thin slab lines that are the style of this area. now a mixed route. Small cam in pocket low down.

Up the funky scoops, rest in cave, then powerful moves straight over the arete, or slight left up headwall. No pro except potential slings, and cam in break.

The obvious splitter crack.Your classic Sydney 2 piece trad route. Could definately be done as a highball, but was originally done on gear.

Start: Up crack 2m L 'Cold Chisel'.

Start: 1m left of 'HJ'.

Gymnastic move over the overhang then easily up the juggy wall with cams in breaks.

Start: Up undercut crack 2m L 'Hardware Lane'.

The offwidth on the block.

Up the wide corner crack, laying away to the left or jamming to the right past the fern patch.

Start below the arete at the right side of the back wall. Climb onto ledge then up the arete on solid holds. BB. Inverted 0.75 placement in pod below layback flake.

Straight up past the prow.

Hand crack to start up, on to block step right then finish up offwidth.

Fun finishing moves. Upon cleaning the crack, there was a brown tree snake which popped out. So be wary with your fingers in the crack!

Clean firm breaks, great pro, and fun finishing move via adequate old carrot.

Up corner of block to ledge, then up big pockets/edges to top out. Poor/no pro past block.

Tough start in front of where the tree meets the ledge. Climb up to the ledge and then up the crack next to the orange streak. Two good carrots at the top to set up top rope.

Up slab between DHC and CB. Crux is before the first bolt. Thin, delicate face climbing, then a double mantle. Small pro for the top out.

Fun steep climbing. 0.5 cam to protect the start and a no.2 before the carrot bolts. There is an old bent gal carrot and a horribly rusty one a bit further up.

Start 1m left of Grumpy Old Man.

Straight up the easy slab to solid double cams in break at 5m, feet up to pocket, then flat-handed topout. Use GOM belay, and intermediate pro in "Easy chimney" if required.

Chimney on west face of block. Natural anchor at top and rap off rings into courtyard. The Usual Chimney style.

Softer start to "Vege Tale"

Start below the overhang on the left side of the front wall. Boulder up and left onto the south wall, passing some bollards and several breaks (good cams) for a final challenging exit. DBB

Direct start 3m right of Cruel Fate Direct - nice boulder moves (20) lead to the bollard and continue up.

The obvious offwidth crack half way along main wall. Good line to practise offwidth skills, but can be climbed without them.

The direct start traverses right into the same crux and had an unprotected start with first pro at 4m.

Whacky mixed line, staring just left of Aria (starts on good footholds). Traverse left and up corner. This route is poorly protected and not very good.

As for TD. Climb up to the large flake and move right and continue up. Tricky exit. DBB.

Wide corner followed by short chimney.

Minimal protection above 4m with gymnastic roof finish.

Run-out with just a couple of horizontal breaks for poor cam placements. More of a high-ball boulder. Climb to the left of the tree half-way, then some unnerving dusty moves to top-out.

The obvious scoop trending left, finishing left of the micro-roof. Cams in breaks, with horn runner to top out

Thin finger crack to start leading to offwidth. Only requires 2 offwidth moves to top out. Take your big cam on this one.

Wider corner then thin crack with good pro, stem or jam. Someone has recently (2018) painted RRR at the base.

Delicate feet on small edges to reach the 2 horizontal breaks half-way, the upper break has good cam placements. Then the crux, small sloping handholds to get above the breaks and access the final slab.