线路 in Tianjara Falls

Some sweet rock climbing past some ring bolts

Start: Clip 1st bolt on GCR.

Puts the bight back into the line that mustad traversed away from.

Start: Same start as With Mustard

Chimney up and be re-birthed through small squeeze onto an excellent viewing platform for Sahara & Stairway to Heaven.

traverse across and get yourself established on a technical arete a few big moves and your at the anchors should be around grade 19-21

Start: The anchors are in all you have to do is add 4-5 bolts

The crack corner under the impressive orange wall with 2 unknown routes on it.

Right hand end of overhang/cave. Up crack to top.

The obvious overhanging, leaning crack. An inspiring line and a classic trad test piece.

1. 20m, 25 - Climb the crack to belay at the break or lower off, double bolt belay/chain.

2. 12m, 10 - Traverse right to corner and follow to top.

A few meters right of ROTF. Up obvious crack to top.

Route broken into three short pitches with lower offs on the first two. Climbs the right hand end of slabby orange wall and discontinuous corner. Take some medium wires and small to medium cams. 10m left of BUTO

1. 12m, 20, 3 bolts - Step onto wall at conglomerate band and up to large ledge.

2. 12m, 22, 3 bolts - Up technical slab to flake corner past a third bolt to exit up thin crack to ledge.

3. 6m, 17, 1 bolts - Up wall above ledge to top.

Low angled corner crack. Start up on scree slope.

The right route of two up an easy angled black wall.

Start: At the apex of the gully

Line up next to the arete past 2 bolts. Makes a good exit route.

Start: At the apex of the gully

The crack to the right of A. Stuff in a bunch of cams, try not to pull anything off, and up you go.

Start as for Heyday and climb to the stacked blocks, best to belay here. Climb the airy arete on gear (cams) and bolts to the top.

Why not add a trad climb to this gridbolted wall. Named after the second punched herself in the face when a hold let go.

Start 1m right of Roger the emu, up crack with tricky mantle onto the ledge then up easy slabby corner crack. Boulder and gear belay.

One of the more varied bits of climbing around. Start up "beat up and thrown out" then follow the steel out right, pumpy and powerful to the top

bring one plate for the glue in carrot or improvise

The corner to the left of Dalek Dick. Only evidence of an ascent is the old carrot bolt at the top for a belay (don't use it you're better off tying off to a bunch of those half burnt scrawny bushes than clipping this thing).

The classic route from the 70s. Put up by the pioneers of the area. Just because they don't have a line of stainless drilled up em doesn't mean they're not climbs!

Start: Obvious big black slab around the corner right of 'Snacky Cakes'

Ascend the face between LMS and the brushy gully. Start at LMS and move slightly right, then straight up. Stay left of the alcove near the LMS anchors. Top out and belay on slung blocks or other gear.

Apologies to G Hill for the name, I don't know what it should be called.

Start: 1 meter left of Little Miss Sunshine

Another way old climb that was done before recorded time had begun. Probably by the old cockroach himself (Bill James). PS changed named from Cabrank senile?

Start: At the bottom of the right leaning diagonal ramp which splits the face in this area.

Up R The D for first three bolts then trend left into the obvious left leading crack. Wires and cams to connect the bolts, finish at the D. rings at the end of the diagonal.

Start at the obvious diagonal crack on the right end of the LMS slab. There is a very faint '18' painted/chipped into the rock at the start. Climb up 7 meters follow the seam as it diagonals left. Top out, belay on large cams under blocks.

2 pitch corner crack on gear. Start at the left end of ledge that splits the cliff, Double bolt belay.

1. Traverse left to stacked blocks, up the corner and exit left to belay.

2. climb up and left to exit left of the leaning crack, bolt.

The obvious crack left (north) of Prawn Wall. Romp on up the right trending crack with lots of good jams and holds. Pass the tree and anchor from the double bolts at the top of Prawn Wall.

Fantastic outing in a stellar position. Same start as Heyday. Take the first crack leading to the roof, exit left and follow crack to top.

The obvious diagonal crack feature. Good gear and snappy holds will make this a popular trad route.

Directly up the crack when you emerge from the chimney walkthrough 15m right of Seafood Tapas and 10m left of Prawn Cracker. Up the crack, trend to the left of a cave then back right and up the face to finish.

The corner crack to peapod and overhang. Done in the days before Friends were invented and the hexs rattled out around your ankles as you passed them by. I rather like the newer names.

Start: Corner crack on the left side of the cave structure

The leftward slanting ramp to the left of Emergent. Undoubtedly very similar to the climb near Shelob's tunnel in the Lord of the Rings. Up, up, up the leftwards ramp, then follow the weakness direct to the top.

Crack climbing so what else is there to say. At base of large trench like crack splitting the left side of the orange wall. Marked with an engraved initial 'T'. Bridge around the crack and through the roof. Follow crack and wall to the top and walk off to belay or rap off a tree.

Why anyone would climb a rotten corner like this i don't know but i have, probably with a good helmet on. And yes we graded it 10.

Start: Two meters right of CL in rotten corner.

Start 1m right of blocky corner as per guidebook, up feint grey streak to top out eventually.

Start at obvious crack feature. Wind your way up the wall topping out. Crossed by many bolted routes now. Such is progress trampling over the heritage of the trad climber.

Start at the old chains, up the easy ramp past an old pin and some new fixed hangers up high.

start under the leaning crack, all geared up!! all those bottom placements you think you can see are dirty and flaring, so you climb up a bit freak out and down climb a little then do some gardening.. you get decent gear at about 4 mtrs, more nut placements than cams finish up storking pork anchors

Start: ummm. at the bottom of the crack i guess!

One of the original classics from some time b4 the last ice age. An easy wall with good gear. A must for all the Trad Dad's. Now bolted and given 18 in the guide (Mustard?), you be the judge.

Start: Right of SL at short and blocky corner. Under obvious slightly off vertical wall with three cracks in it. You can lower on a 60m rope to the floor with about 5 metres left (if belaying from on the block).

Up the corner crack and then follow the left crack system off ledge. Another very old route, at least you get bolts for the first 5 meters.

Start: In Corner of Mythical Tomatoes.

A pleasant adventure. Left hand route on the black wall. As for First Impressions. Follow the line of fixed hangers just right of the empty space and finish up on the nose and easy ground above. Take some medium to large cams, double rope handy to reduce drag.

The next 4 routes have a common start at a FH just to the left of a scrubby corner, on the right of the overhang. The leftward trending line on the blunt arete left of AHMS. Take a selection of wires and cams and a couple of slings. As for Angus Has Me Stumped. P1 (20m, 20, 6 bolts) Clip first hanger of AHMS then traverse left to tread at break, up past 2 hangers, step left around nose and on past another hanger to belay on ledge with tree. Double bolt belay. P2 (20m, 16, 1 bolts) Exciting traverse leftward past hanger to corner, up and traverse left at top and on to top.

Not a lot of protection through the first wall from memory but think of England, Dave Mcleod & just fake it.

Start: At wall with scooped out bites just right of Mythical tomatoes

Crack line 2 meters left of a deep chimney at the left end of the wall.

Start: From the large ledge.

A bit of old fashioned run it out trad climbing, taking in all the best looking rock it could.

Start: Same as for Cab Rank under obvious bite out of wall ie under scoops.

Another old trad route. Not sure how much pro you get on it but i remember it as run out. Then again its only 14.

Start: Drop down off the ledge where 'Usurper' starts and walk towards the water fall a few meters. Around the nose you will soon see a large left leaning slab and corner with lots of rooves above it. From Cab rank you can look up to the right and see a tree growing from an orange rock ledge this is the last stance.

Splitter crack in the pillar left of the large roof. Right hand end of ledge,8m right of FSR, and just around right from EITR. double bolt belay. P1 (12m, 22) Rightward leaning corner then crack in face to ledge on left with shrub. P2 (23m, 17) Step back right onto jambed chockstone, up chimney and corner then black slab on right to top.

Step off block and follow steepening slab.

Shared start with HJ, up ramp past 4RBs to stance. Step right over the void and up corner on perfect white rock until you are forced back on to the face for the crimpy crux, followed by easier ground to anchors at top of cliff.

Start at the same first bolt as as East of Africa. Take the left line of bolts past the Congo, grappling with the easiest holds and scabs for a mild tick.

The slab of death, last climb in this sector...

A great piece of climbing,well I liked it!

Start: This is the third route in from the corner. Without the big U bolt lower off. Bouldery start on little black pocket then long black wall.

Start in the orange wall off a small boulder.. Easy to second bolt then super techy thin moves to final roof section.

Start on the lower level 3m right of BW. Heave from pocket onto ledge then take the left line of bolts up the steep wall, onto the slab and on to anchors.

Tricky start, then jug along blissfully thru overhang and upto anchors.

Start: At the far end of DB wall.

The second line of bolts right of Legless Leper. Start at any of the two or three bolted alternatives. The arete start is more traditional. Great climbing on a steep wall with a crux somewhere near the top. If you pull off any holds glue them back on!

Up wall to shared giant U lower off with previous climb. Sandbag.

Start: The left most climb on this wall

A nice little wall that deserved a taste of steel. The orange rock in the cave is great and the moves up the right side of the arete just fine. Ignore the two bolts on the left side of the arête they're just a waste of stainless.

Start: Same two bolt wall start as JVVES to the ledge.

3rd climb as you walk down the hill.. Techy start to juggy finish..

Same start as Trad Dads Cant Campus, followed with lay back crux to gain the tops and on to easy ground to anchors.

Long ramble, first crux at one third height then fun climbing to top crux in brilliant orange rock. Start at far left hand of ramp at the belay bolt.

A fun slab to half way followed by hard, technical, bouldery climbing directly up the middle of the steep headwall above. Great climbing, and a beautiful piece of rock.

A couple of notes...

• Take care of falls with a soft catch, you will possibly hit the ledge falling between the 1st and 2nd, or 2nd and 3rd bolts. A new bolt has been added between what was the 3rd and 4th bolts making this section nice and safe now.

• The grade will probably vary greatly with height, so take whatever seems right for you. If you're quite short, this will still be doable and super fun with creative beta, but expect a challenge.

Desperately tries to climb the orange streak but can't quite do it. Start on the upper ledge at the common start bolt. Head up and left onto the great orange rock. Instead of heading into the bee's nest at the top, jig back to the right to finish on the common anchors. Not much new rock passes under your feet but the stuff is gorgeous. The critics will cry "contrived!" & "toy route" but who cares rock doesn't get any better than this.

Thin start on shallow pockets then easier wall to giant U. Sandbag.

Start: 4m left of PP

Takes advantage of all the orange rock it can. Others would swear at another contrived piece of shit from Hill but who cares. Boulderers do it all the time.

Start: Same start as shut the gate.

Right side of wall. Up thru the overlaps.

Start: Just right of GJCJ, then techo traverse right in tiny pebbles to awesome pumpy head wall. Shared last couple of boles and lower off with GJCJ

Just inside the slot three metres left of Shut The Gate at the corner. Up through the conglomerate band and the small overhang above it to the slab and the next small overhang Follow the line of bolts up the slab to the lower off.

belay up on the block just right of first bolt, take care on the flake at third height but you don't need to pull on it, then power to the top...well that's my idea!!

Start on the upper ledge at the common bolt. Head up just to the right of the orange streak crossing back to the centre at mid height then straight up to common anchors. Thin moves some of which were so thin they fell off, hence the need to glue a few back on. If glue offends don't whinge to me.

Shared start with SM. Thin bouldery start then straight up steepening wall trending right near the top. Take optional braket for the carrot. 24 in the guide, which feels about right !

A really great way to use the rock as a resource to its best. It shares the same start and the same lower offs but all the rest of the route is completely different enough to want to climb it.

Start: Same start as the previous route just left of the cave.

In the middle of the chimney walkthrough, 20m left (north) and around the corner from Old Man Boo, 7m right of Prawn Wall. Up the nice grey wall, at a thin crack. Belay from the chimney walk through. Bridge up Eiger Sanction style or go straight up the wall. Slightly finicky start to jugs.

Jug hauling interupted by the burly break move.

Start: Between Trad Dads start and 'Dodecahedron' from the boulder.

At the crack splitting the left side of the orange wall. Shares the same start as Tonnage Zone.

start up right end of drop bear wall, up ramp then up super steep arete, swing left under rotten cave, watch out for a little loose rock, tackle crux (big throw) do the tricky mantle etc.. there it is! how hard can it be?

Flake and slab line on immaculate rock.

This one has it all. Left of BWL and up a little gully, under a little roof at the base of an orange slab.

Grapple with the roof, follow the flake to the finishing slab.

Fantastic sustained climbing. Shared start (marked) with PP, up and traverse right and continue up steep wall.

The direct line up the wall then up the leaning corner. Keep going to the rap chains at the very top.

Hard crimpy start on the grey wall two meters right of THHB Direct. First few of bolts are shared with 'Whistling For Dinner'

Start 3m left of Little Miss Sunshine at the RB

The left trending finish to Dave Fern. A real pumper!

Start at the base of the chimney at the left end of the wall, 8m left of Tonage Zone. Climb the arete/ chimney to the anchors.

Another good wall slightly shorter so you wont get so pumped or will you?

Fourth bolt a little dumbly placed but it protects the hard stuff above. The climb is essentially five sections of grade 20 with a little slappy bit of 22 makes for a reasonably sustained route. Worth one more grade than Stairway.

Start: Third line of bolts to the left of the arch.

Start just right of the corner crack. Traverse out along ramp then up to anchors.

Up left side of cave. Finger jugs, to jugs, to crimpy headwall. Sustained for 12 metres

The pick of the bunch. Goes up the sanest chunk of orange rock, in the most direct manner. Once around the roof the slab is easy.

Start: On the easy orange wall two meters right of the other route and just left of the cave.

Start 1 metre left of first bolt and up, nice grey rock up high

A great jug haul. Originally climbed on trad gear and the carrots now full of rings.

Start: At the initials DFA. Shares first three bolts with 'Dodecahedron'.

The left climb on the orange wall. Bouldery and Fun!

Start right of Rappin on the buttress. Great climbing up the buttress.

Up then right into vertical crack, clipping 1000's of ring bolts to lower offs at 2/3 height. If your a keen trad dad continue up the easy crack to the top to new carrot and tree anchor.

Up the juggy wall

Start: Just right of big cave.

Great junk of orange rock to start and an easy slab finish. A direct start to Rita. Possibly a little gay at 24 but at least as hard as STG.

Start: Two meters right of 'Mouche Pique' at the orange undercut under diagonal thin crack.

5m left (north) of Seafood Tapas and 10m right of a steep descent gully that joins with Chunder's Glen. Sustained up to and over the bulge then cruise to the top

A right diagonal used to block those new routers that may sneak another line in. Large jugs are what every guy dreams of and this route has lots.

Start: Same Start as Dave Fern

Major steep arête on right side of orange face. Quite unusual climbing style for 'Nowra', with lots of sideways holds and blocky edges. Start arête direct with bouldery moves past first bolt. Rest on stance then more trick moves up marbled rock to tricky crux bulge. Finish up crack.

Start: Starts 10m left of 'Mystery Mossy Slab'.

Stick clip or take care to first bolt, climb huge weathered flake until forced onto the face, enjoy the pump!

Climbs the scoops on the left side of the arete then up arete on great rock. All FHs. The first bolt is crazy high and dangerous to reach - stick-clip it from boulder next to it.