攀登 in Europe by Melwin Quacke

only first pitch

exciting. Second pitch seemed to have been climbed rarely.

start is not easy, but well protected if you can place a large cam in the small roff at the start. Gets easier after that.

traverse in the 9th pitch was dripping wet but climbable thanks to bolts. Enjoyable route after the first somewhat shabby pitches.

Not to be taken too lightly.

pleasure climbing with lots of holds, no extra pro needed

awesome

nice balance between natural gear and the occasional bolt when you need it (1. pitch lead, 2. followed)

stunning finish

laybacking is easier than it looks

Some mid-sized Rocks are useful to protect the non-trivial crux

Start somewhat tricky, the rest real plaisir.

Beautiful long route. Crux is in the first 10 m.

1. Begehung

lots of stemming

some lichens at the base, but better the higher you get

Demanding finger locks to the thank-god root of the spruce. Accidentally took the exit of the route, which was quite a runout over a lychen-covered slab.

reached the anchors from the right, which was 7-. Straight up seemed very reachy.

hard start, beautiful balance riddles

Somewhat sandy till the first big thread around 8 m high, then well protected and consistently difficult to top.

Quite a sweatfest on a sunny summer day, but the "anchors" feature a bench under a shady oak. Unintentionally used the final moves of Blitzriss.

classic crack line

reachy

somewhat sketchy moves on mediocre pro first bolt

First pitch easy and well-protected; second with powerful moves and harder to protect

nice moves, but dirty. Bring extra pro

Somewhat sketchy move to the sling placement.

versatile

somewhat sketchy to first bolt

concentrated crux past bulge, the rest pure pleasure

Lower part often damp. Somewhat sketchy to first small thread, then easier to first bolt. Crux after 3rd bolt.

starting with route "Himmelsrichtung" creates less ground fall potential.

Sandy flat landing makes for nice start. 10 mm sling may be placed halfway, then progressively harder till bolt. After bolt I found two old slings in the back of the crack, for which I was quite greatful, as I couldn't place anything reasonable anymore and the climbing is harder than it looks. Because of rope drag, belaying off the second bolt make sense. The traverse and chimney went smoothly, but the final friction moves till summit are unprotected, unless you get your second up.

somewhat uneasy clip of first bolt, then tricky moves past it. Nice threads and easier moves till 3rd bolt. Interesting friction moves to top.

good slings to first bolt. Clipping it seems easier when climbing the fissure right to its end. 2nd bolt can be clipped from good jug above small hollow.

layback is nice to climb, hard to protect - don't fall.

More off-fist than it looks like, so some laybacking may help you especially in the upper half.

reasonably protectable; harder than it looks just before ringbolt. Friction moves off the bolts quite hard.

demanding moves at start; crispy holds and mediocre pro; exit moves not hard but somewhat runout

smooth till first bolt, then 10 mm sling can be placed above overhang. Strange move to 2. bolt. Another smaller sling before the final wall, which is unexpectedly crimpy.

reachy past the roof

After the ring bolt still tricky

exceptionally well protected

plenty of pro; exit crack demands some jamming

better quality than it looks, crux shortly past first bolt and around corner

crux at bulge after first bolt. Somewhat sketchy off the pillar to Alter Weg. Watch out for rope drag.