Rating | Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 岩场 | 路线质量 | 日期 | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3082
points
| 7b 9- | ★★ Rechter Winkel | 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期六 11th 6月 2022 | |||
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2965
points
| 8 | ★★ Kauabonga - with d, f | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期六 19th 8月 2023 | |||
2940
points
| 8 | ★★ Hypersupermegaturbotittenaffengeil | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 29th 5月 2023 | |||
Cool athletic climb. Os with draws in.
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2925
points
| 8 | ★★ Plattmacher | 14m, 5 | Odenwald | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 8th 4月 2023 | |||
A bit confusing at the 3rd bolt, cool layback crux from 4 to 5.
Took a .3 cam to protect the top moves, but felt like overkill in retrospect. #scarierfrombelow Really psyched that I cruised the flash ☀️ |
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2924
points
| 9- | ★★★ Dumbo - with Flo, j | 15m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ 经典 | 星期天 7th 5月 2023 | |||
Great, aesthetic and fun line. I was psyched to give it another go all week. Unfortunately, I started the day feeling trashed and sleep deprived and thus kept falling on the move to the first mono, mosty due to bad coordination. I don't know how often I climbed the initial boulder, but I was definitely feeling it when I hopped on one last time to clean the draws. But - on that go I hit the mono, and everything else just went. Bam!
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2912
points
| 8 | ★ Run to the Hills - with Katta, Markus Hohmann | 18m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期一 6th 6月 2022 | |||
Fun and fairly easy roof. The section to the last bolt pulls you left into the jugs. I tried to resist for an honest send and did the actual climb with the edges, but used a jug for the clip. Definitely within 1m of the line, so I'm counting the send 😜
Very much my style, but still felt #soft like everything I climbed at this cliff |
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2848
points
| 9- | ★★ Advenzgronzkäznozündä - with flo, g | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 28th 8月 2022 | |||
The route starts fluffy, with juggy climbing and a good sitting rest in the upper hollow.
Continuing up the flake is a pleasant stroll (assuming you find the good holds). However, once you reach the end, a brutal, angry 3 move moonboard boulder awaits. If you survived, a nice undercling traverse and a ca grade 5 dihedral get you to the anchor. To my surprise, I sent #2ndgo while trashed from b&b. Much easier than b&b imo, but that might be because the short crux suits my style and the rest is not sustained. |
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2848
points
| 9- | ★★★ Beavis & Butthead - with flo, g | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期天 28th 8月 2022 | |||
Steep, thuggy, athletic, wonderful. Easily the best route I've climbed in this style.
The route starts off with a bouldery, core strength crux at bolts 2 to 3. As usual, good foot placement is the key. Afterwards, things do get easier while still demanding endurance. A long move to a sloper at the 4th bolt is the usual post-crux kicker and two sloper edges above the last bolt are the final serious hurdle. I almost sent this 2 years ago, falling at the move from the final sloper edge. Ever since, i always wanted to get the proper send, but a combination of bad conditions and a serious long-term injury kept me from going for it. So sending while tired and angsty from 1.5 rainy days of terrible conditions and fruitless attempts was... awesome 😎 |
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2840
points
| 8- | ★★ Stressechokardiogramm - with j | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 28th 5月 2023 | |||
Fun wall climbing
|
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2840
points
| 9- | ★★ Stalingrad - with Nobbi Fahr | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ 经典 | 星期天 31st 7月 2022 | |||
Yeah! Cool and aesthetic tour.
Start boulder with a sweet knee bar, followed by a no-hand rest. Top section is mostly steep juggy goodness, with a pronounced crux on pockets for which I needed to work out a sequence, followed by a long move to the right-hand edge. 2nd day, 4th go overall, bam😊 |
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2782
points
| 8+ | ★★★ Hängt a weng über — 4 attempts - with Katta | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ 经典 | 星期天 9th 7月 2023 | |||
Cool 3d roof with a run out and scary scramble to the ⚓.
Should have spent more time checking out the beta, as the route felt soft once I had the sequence. |
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2776
points
| 8+ | ★★ Just Married — 5 attempts - with p, l, f+l | 17m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 18th 6月 2023 | |||
Cool route. The actual crux right after the rest went fine after scouting the sequence, although it never felt easy. The second, easier crux was what kept me from sending ... Last go went really smooth though, despite me being pretty trashed
Ended up skipping the first bolt, as it does nothing for the overall grade and communication with the belayer is terrible if you use it. |
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2745
points
| 8- | ★★ Cornflakes | 13m, 4 | Odenwald | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 8th 4月 2023 | |||
Beautiful line up a crack/flake. The pronounced crux can be jammed or climbed athletically. Went for an in-between beta that felt sketchy but worked great. 🎉
|
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2741
points
| 8+ | ★★ Klitzekleine Nase — 3 attempts - with peter, Sven, Hannah | 18m, 4 | Hohburger Berge | ★★ 很好 | 星期三 22nd 2月 2023 | |||
Needed some futzing around to find my beta for the initial boulder (I actually skipped the tiny nose. Instead, toe hook in the lower pocket to move into the middle undercling with the left hand, left foot up onto the ledge and then cross straight into the good hold on the arete)
I had to power through from bolt 2 to the rest at bolt 3. From there, easy if chossy going to the anchor. bam first "harder" route since the surgery. |
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2732
points
| 8- | ★★ Für Hanno - with Katta, Markus Hohmann | 18m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 6th 6月 2022 | |||
Easy 3d dihedral to the stance, then ~4m fun athletic roof climbing with juggy holds and the final wall with big pockets to the anchor.
The route definitely suits my style, but still felt #soft as I never left my comfort zone. |
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2675
points
| 8- | ★★ Blutspur - with flo | 14m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 20th 8月 2022 | |||
2670
points
| 7+ | ★★ Balduin - with Katta | 3 | Südharz | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 2nd 7月 2023 | |||
Great athletic romp through the roof. Kneebars and 3d climbing.
Main gripe: should be longer |
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2669
points
| 8- | ★★ Perle der Natur - with Dani, flo | 21m, 10 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 31st 7月 2022 | |||
Bottom section in structured rock with mostly weird but good pinches, top technical with interesting moves on flakes and pockets.
OS with draws in. |
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2664
points
| 8+ | ★ Orientierungslose Studenten | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期六 11th 6月 2022 | |||
Hard right off the bat, used a jam to lock off the big lefthand pocket.
Not the most aesthetic line, but contains some fun climbing. Did the right-hand variant via the flake at the 4th bolt. |
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2660
points
| 7+ ~7- | ★ Decision | 11m | Frankenjura Nord | 星期一 29th 5月 2023 | ||||
Used the dihedral
|
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2658
points
| 7+ | ★ Hanfbauer Schröll - with r, d | 22m, 8 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期天 21st 5月 2023 | |||
2654
points
| 8- | ★★ Dumbledore - with g, m, f | 10m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | 一般 | 星期天 12th 6月 2022 | |||
Some fun movements, but I constantly felt pulled out of the line.
I went left in the lower section to avoid wet rock. Climbed the top section from the right with a hand jam, felt easier than some of the other betas looked. |
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2615
points
| 8 | ★★ Hatari Direktstart — 3 attempts - with d, f | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 19th 8月 2023 | |||
2603
points
| 8 | ★ Stoppok — 3 attempts | 3 | Frankenjura Nord | 一般 | 星期二 11th 7月 2023 | |||
Scratchy 2 move boulder that feels a bit defined.
|
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2602
points
| 8 | ★ Altersheimer — 2 attempts - with Katta | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 8th 7月 2023 | |||
Fun jugfest. Should have been an onsight...
|
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2580
points
| 7+ | ★ Holiday on Ice - with j | 17m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | 星期天 28th 5月 2023 | ||||
2576
points
| 8 | ★★ Muldentaler Henkelreißer — 2 attempts - with SV | 17m, 5 | Muldetal bei Rochsburg | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 13th 4月 2023 | |||
Cruxy moves through the roof. Went once I had the foot beta, although getting past the last crux move at the pinch/flake at the lip of the roof was a struggle. I just went for the jug, lost everything else and hung on 😅
A satisfying send 😊 |
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2554
points
| 7+ | ★★ Onkel Vernon - with g, m, f | 6m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 12th 6月 2022 | |||
Juggy and good - easy to read up the second bolt, less obvious afterwards
|
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2540
points
| 8 | ★ Coppa Grande — 3 attempts - with j | 17m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 28th 5月 2023 | |||
Good line, tricky to find the good crux beta.
|
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2534
points
| 8- | Überholspur - with Katta | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | 不值一提 | 星期天 9th 5月 2021 | |||
The initial boulder to the plateau is excellent. Unfortunately, the top section feels contrived. The bolting is strange, and i didn't see a proper line and felt pulled towards both the dihedral and the arête. Stayed on the wall and went slightly left over good pockets - didn't feel like 8-.
#soft OS with draws in |
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2527
points
| 7+ | Diabolo | 5 | Muldetal bei Grimma | 一般 | 星期六 12th 3月 2022 | |||
OK wall climb with a mono at the start
|
|||||||||
2521
points
| 7b 8+/9- | ★★★ Teilchenbeschleuniger - with Markus Hohmann | Tambach-Dietharz | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 31st 10月 2020 | ||||
Actually 8+/9-, but the system can't log that.
The long move required a couple of attempts and a switch in beta (I skipped the right pinch and went straight for the big pebble), didn't feel hard otherwise. Has a sitting rest that is not quite a no-hand . |
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2505
points
| 7 | ★ Eschenbacher Pfeiler | 28m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | 一般 | 星期五 10th 5月 2024 | |||
2499
points
| 8 | ★★ Tempo 60 - with flo, Markus Hohmann, Katta | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期六 30th 7月 2022 | |||
Rough start (my beta was reach really high, do a pull-up and place feet). Afterwards, arete and wall climbing that's hard to read but decent once I figured out the beta.
3rd go, initially pretty tilted (need to get back into the sport climbing mindset) |
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2488
points
| 7 | ★ Bonnie und Clyde | 17m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | 星期六 24th 6月 2023 | ||||
2488
points
| 7 | ★★ Climbing.de | 22m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期六 24th 6月 2023 | |||
2484
points
| 9 | ★★ King Louis - with flo, g | 15m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | 星期六 27th 8月 2022 | ||||
Checked out the moves since all other tops were wet and dripping. Isolated it all goes, although not efficiently. The handbump after the long move seems particularly desperate, also I aid clipped.
Could be realistic, but I didn't feel like investing serious effort as I was attempting b&b, mb some other time. |
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2480
points
| 7 | ★★ Rotphase - with j | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 28th 5月 2023 | |||
Good flowy wall climbing
|
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2479
points
| 8+ | ★ Rauchende Strapse - with MartinM, katta | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 4th 10月 2020 | |||
Athletic and fun moves on underclings. Spoiler: for the bulge, head straight up the crack at first, rather than the (seemingly obvious) move out right
The style suits me, but seems #soft for the grade none the less. |
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2472
points
| 7+ 7+/8- | ★★ Electric lemonade - with Katta, Markus Hohmann | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 6th 6月 2022 | |||
Fun juggy route /w an obvious crux - the long move to the lip followed by a scratchy hand bump.
Graded 7+ in the Schwertner, I think that's already being generous. Although - the roof might be considerably harder for short climbers. |
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2470
points
| 8+ | ★★★ Level 3 - with MartinM | 7 | Tambach-Dietharz | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期六 5th 9月 2020 | |||
Whoop! First route in the grade post-injury.
Used the scary left jam hook. 5th go of the day.
|
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2461
points
| 8 | ★★ Schwingtür - with Katta | 12m, 4 | Muldetal bei Grimma | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 28th 3月 2022 | |||
Schwing!
Sweet, sustained quarry climb with an excellent 1.5 finger pocket at the 2nd bolt and a hard boulder at the 4th - which every climber seems to solve differently. My only gripe is the 4th bolt placement - I have to either clip during/after the crux or do an insanely reachy clip from the sidepull - unpleasant. Not an issue pinkpointing with an extended draw tho. 2nd go of the day (+warmup putting in draws) I already climbed this 2019 - not sure if I sent it then. |
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2451
points
| 7 | ★★ Bissige Platte - with peter | 16m, 4 | Hohburger Berge | ★★ 很好 | 星期三 22nd 2月 2023 | |||
Really cool, winding route. Started in the left dihedral, traversing out felt a bit shaky. Then a really cool layback section on large flakes followed by a sitting rest and a sweet overhanging finish. Recommended!
|
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2451
points
| 7 | Mai Pan Rei - with peter | 12m, 3 | Hohburger Berge | 不值一提 | 星期三 22nd 2月 2023 | |||
Didn't feel like a logical line, and lots of algae in the lower section.
Climb sth nice instead. |
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2449
points
| 8 | ★★ Armageddon - with Katta | 13m, 4 | Halle Cityclimbing | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 12th 12月 2020 | |||
I came, I saw, I... had to come back with crack gloves.
Bouldery route with a short overhanging crux and a fun top section. My solution involved dynamically placing a hand jam at the top of the crack, neat. #somethingneweveryday |
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2438
points
| 8- | ★★ Unendliche Geschichte | 11m, 6 | Muldetal bei Grimma | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 23rd 6月 2020 | |||
repeat 1st go, flashed a while back
|
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2425
points
| 7 | Kimballa - with d, f | 8m | Frankenjura Nord | 星期六 19th 8月 2023 | ||||
2422
points
| 8+ 8/8+ | ★★ Thomsenriss - with MartinM | 10m, 4 | Muldetal bei Grimma | ★ 好 | 星期六 12th 9月 2020 | |||
Finally! It took 5 sessions total, making serious attempts during 3 of them. And this despite the route having no subjectively "hard" moves.
|
|||||||||
2420
points
| 8- | ★ Peyote - with Katta | 2 | Südharz | ★ 好 | 星期天 2nd 7月 2023 | |||
More a (fun) athletic and technical boulder than a route, as everything beyond the first bolt is more like UIAA5
I was one move a way from getting the slot above the lip and therefore the onsight, but figuring out that move took me a couple more attempts. Beyond figuring out the beta, I also needed to get into the proper "fight mode" headspace for the crux moves. |
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2419
points
| 7 | ★ Mission Possible - with flo | 14m, 3 | Hohburger Berge | ★ 好 | 星期天 6th 11月 2022 | |||
Weird but enjoyable, typical porphyr climb. Tricky from the first ledge.
I definitely climbed this before, albeit with a different beta. No idea if I onsighted it then.... |
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2416
points
| 8- | ★★ Die dunkle Seite — 3 attempts - with p, l, f+l | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 18th 6月 2023 | |||
athletic and varied. The only move that kept me from sending was the last one to the flake, but I messed that up twice... Gna
|
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2413
points
| 7 | Gold Rush - with gerardo | Muldetal bei Rochsburg | 一般 | 星期一 17th 10月 2022 | ||||
Start variant with underclings, slopey holds and sidepulls.
|
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2408
points
| 8- | ★★ Bradikardin - with Katta | 15m, 5 | Hohburger Berge | ★ 好 | 星期四 17th 3月 2022 | |||
Short, tough and fun #crack climbing boulder to the 2nd bolt.
For me, the solution was to properly tape up for the finger jam - without pain, the moves didn't feel that hard. |
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2402
points
| 8- | ★★ Unendliche Geschichte | 11m, 6 | Muldetal bei Grimma | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 4th 5月 2023 | |||
2402
points
| 7 | ★★★ Trainingseinheit - with Katta, MartinM, ad, David Schröder | 3 | Südharz | ★★★ 经典 | 星期天 11th 9月 2022 | |||
Fairly homogeneous with a slight bump in difficulty to the anchor. Excellent sidepulls and underclings, tricky feet (used footjams up top 😊)
|
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2399
points
| 9- | ★★★ Dumbo — 2 attempts - with flo, dani | 15m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | 星期六 22nd 4月 2023 | ||||
Cool line with 2 cruxes, one on the bulge to the slab and an easier one from the rest to the upper jugs.
Both felt very solid once I had a beta. My last go I fell at the very top due to not using an obvious foothold... c'est la vie. I will return! |
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2399
points
| 8- | ★★ John Lennon — 2 attempts - with flo, dani | 20m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 23rd 4月 2023 | |||
Almost a retroflash (first climbed before I kept track of my ascents(2016?)), but I slipped off a wet finger pocket right before the lip of the upper roof. 2nd go I went for a alternative beta using the undercling to go straight to the lip and skip the wet and damp holds..
|
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2398
points
| 8 | ★★ Angewandte Physik | 8m, 3 | Leipziger Kletterschule | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 25th 6月 2020 | |||
Repeat from a couple of years ago. Needed to re-work upper boulder moves.
|
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2395
points
| 7a+ 8/8+ | ★ Irrer Iwan | 18m, 4 | Weser-Leine-Bergland | ★ 好 | 星期六 2nd 1月 2021 | |||
Actually graded 8/8+
Tricky initial boulder to get up the first plateau, which I did differently every attempt. At the second bolt, I headed slightly to the left, using the hold and pocket in the dihedral. The steep top section is powerful but pretty straightforward, once you find the initial hold at the lip of the overhang. 5th go. Video Beta: https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cf3kKNbjQX7/ |
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2391
points
| 8- | ★★ Campusboard - with Nobbi Fahr, j | 7m, 2 | Halle Cityclimbing | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 26th 3月 2023 | |||
Feels like 2 stacked fun and dynamic boulder problems.
I had to mess up every dynamic move at least once, then it went. |
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2389
points
| 7 | ★ Metas Welt - with flo, Markus Hohmann, Katta | 14m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期六 30th 7月 2022 | |||
Start on round features, then small but good pockets and a fun pinch crux at the very top.
|
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2382
points
| 8+/9- | ★★ Dudley - with f, d | 6m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | 星期天 20th 8月 2023 | ||||
Too low first bolt(!) you can easly ground on sharp rocks. -> Climbed light pink point, with pre-clipped 2nd draw.
Bad conditions, but still - very bouldery, hard moves. Did every move but wasn't close to linking. Maybe easier with smaller fingers, as I had trouble really getting the hourglass at the 2nd bolt. |
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2368
points
| 7+ | ★ Aggulähr - with MartinM, katta | 10m | Frankenjura Nord | 一般 | 星期六 3rd 10月 2020 | |||
Steep, somewhat pumpy, with good holds. #soft
|
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2366
points
| 7 | ★ Himmelblau statt Alltagsgrau - with Katta | 12m, 4 | Rochlitzer Berg | 一般 | 星期天 15th 5月 2022 | |||
Os a while back, today I needed a few tries for the 2nd bolt. #highgravityday
|
|||||||||
2363
points
| 8 | ★★★ Verwehte Spuren - with max | 12m, 6 | Hohburger Berge | ★★★ 经典 | 星期四 6th 5月 2021 | |||
Porphyr at its best. Sustained technical wall climb with several cool sequences. My only gripes are the somewhat sketchy 2nd bolt clip, and that it should be longer
This one took me more sessions than i was expecting, given that it never really felt that hard. Failed attempts included pump, torn skin, broken holds and being rained off... |
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2354
points
| 8- | ★ Mana Meli — 2 attempts - with f, j, l | 7m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期一 8th 5月 2023 | |||
Good athletic boulder up the steepest line around. A bit hard to read up top, which cost me the onsight.
Graded 8- in the Schwertner guide, which feels about right, even given the tough surrounding routes. |
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2352
points
| 8- | ★ Regenbogen — 3 attempts - with svenni | 16m, 5 | Hohburger Berge | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 19th 11月 2022 | |||
Sweet route, technical and powerful sort-of-dihedral with sidepulls. Crux from 3rd bolt to lip, the last move requires morale as your center of mass is above the 4th bolt without having clipped yet. Should be fine with a competent belay. Still, exciting.
I read the sequence correctly first go, but my injury plus the cold weather kept me from going for the onsight. Second go I broke one of the more trustworthy holds (small sidepull edge above the big clip sidepull for the 3rd bolt). Mb the frost? I was very careful to load it slowly. The resulting hold isn't as good, but I found an even better beta using the mono at the top of the big clip hold, for a satisfying 3rd go send. #injured |
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2349
points
| 8- | ★ Größenwahn - with Nobbi Fahr | 16m, 4 | Hohburger Berge | ★ 好 | 星期天 6th 11月 2022 | |||
Morpho indeed. I (1,81, ape index +4cm) managed to solve the crux by shuffling my feet left and placing a toe hook, which allowed me to work my left hand into the pinch and then sloper. Would be trivial with 10cm more reach, and much more tricky with 10cm less. 8- felt about right.
3rd go, with injured left hand |
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2347
points
| 7+ | ★★ Muschelspur | 12m, 4 | Rochlitzer Berg | 星期六 25th 7月 2020 | ||||
Actually a repeat, onsight a while back.
|
|||||||||
2342
points
| 8- | ★★ Wide Boyz | 16m, 6 | Löbejün | ★★★ 经典 | 星期六 15th 10月 2022 | |||
Athletic, juggy romp with a spacy knee-first crux. Very atypical for the quarry - in the best possible way.
Kind of a misnomer, this is only an offwidth if you really, really want it to be. 1st go of the day, #warmup |
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2332
points
| 8- | ★★ Immer Ärger mit Bernie - with Katta, MartinM, ad, David Schröder | 3 | Südharz | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 11th 9月 2022 | |||
Crux-y variant. A cool Boulder over the lip with a really small box. The solution: Hip flexibilty and a bit of oomph 🤘 and knowing which finger to tape.
|
|||||||||
2326
points
| 9- | ★★★ Beavis & Butthead - with flo | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | 星期六 20th 8月 2022 | ||||
Haven't found my old static crux beta, but still managed to get past it. Feels realistic 😊
|
|||||||||
2325
points
| 8- | ★★ Lost Innocence | 13m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ 经典 | 星期天 21st 8月 2022 | |||
2323
points
| 8- | ★★★ Schattenparker | 15m, 4 | Weser-Leine-Bergland | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 13th 8月 2022 | |||
Varied slab and wall climbing.
2 pronounced cruxes, the lower on sharp slippery finger pockets and edges, the upper a compression move on slopey sidepulls. Unfortunately , the upper crux was the only part of the route in full sunlight during my attempts - meh. |
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2319
points
| 9- | ★★ Stalingrad - with flo, Markus Hohmann, Katta | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | 星期六 30th 7月 2022 | ||||
2315
points
| 7 | ★★ Anaconda - with L, max-ggeeee | 16m, 5 | Kriebethaler Wände | ★ 好 | 星期六 27th 11月 2021 | |||
Short but good arête.
Not sure if I've climbed this, putting it down as onsight. |
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2315
points
| 8- | ★ Maus ohne Schwanz - with dani | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期天 17th 7月 2022 | |||
2315
points
| 8- | ★ Polyphoner Tinnitus - with dani | 12m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期天 17th 7月 2022 | |||
2314
points
| 7- | Kobold - with Katta, MartinM | 8m, 2 | Südharz | 不值一提 | 星期天 16th 7月 2023 | |||
#vegetated up top 😕
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2312
points
| 8- 8-/8 | ★★ Hüllochbande - with dani | 3 | Tambach-Dietharz | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 9th 7月 2022 | |||
Typical Hülloch, aka juggy and steep and fun. Climbed the easy Lefthand variant at 2nd bolt (soft 8-).
Pinkpoint with extended 2nd draw and anchor - Imo a bit sketch when done redpoint, as the 2nd draw is hard to clip and messing up the top move gets you near ground level. |
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2306
points
| 7- | ★★ Alles Bio - with p, l, f+l | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | 星期天 18th 6月 2023 | ||||
Nicer than it looks, pumps
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2305
points
| 7+ | ★ Danielroute | 4 | Tambach-Dietharz | ★ 好 | 星期六 7th 3月 2020 | |||
2305
points
| 7+ | ★★ Orang Utan Klaus | Tambach-Dietharz | ★ 好 | 星期六 7th 3月 2020 | ||||
2304
points
| 9- 9-/9 | ★★ Unter falscher Flagge - with g, m, f | 15m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | 星期六 11th 6月 2022 | ||||
Much harder than "Rechter Winkel".
Hard Boulder to second bolt, the hand bump to the left crimp is my personal crux. All moves go, linking feels doable 😊 |
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2304
points
| 8- | ★★ Tante Petunia - with g, m, f | 6m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期天 12th 6月 2022 | |||
Steep, short juggy and fun.
Messed up the onsight due to not finding the good holds and getting flash pumped. Guess I should have warmed up more... Short rant about the bolting, as I've encountered a bunch of similar routes: 2 bolts are more than fine for the tiny route length, but I don't see a reason to place them this low. I was constantly worried about my climber decking on the blocky terrain - if both were maybe ~40cm higher, everything would be chill. Rock quality and clip positions seemed fine further up as well, at least superficially. As it was, I had couple of exciting moments while belaying ^^. I don't want to come across as ungrateful to those who invested the money and time to equip routes. I had fun climbing this, thank you! I mean it as constructive criticism and a counterpoint to the constant refrain of "I don't like high first bolts". |
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2302
points
| 8- | ★ Jürgen würgen (left variation) - with Katta | 18m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期六 4th 6月 2022 | |||
Fun pocket route with a fairly long runout to the top.
Climbed with an extended sling in the sling. |
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2300
points
| 7- | ★ Unser Charly | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期一 29th 5月 2023 | |||
Hand jams in Franconia, ♥️
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2299
points
| 8- | ★★ Klemmloser Riss - with Katta, m | 2 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 26th 5月 2022 | |||
The name is a lie! after the burly start, there are 2 excellent hand jams and a chicken wing rest. Sweet route, really fun 😊
Took a whipper right before the anchor. For peace of mind, I added a yellow cam for the send. |
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2299
points
| 8- | ★ I need your love | 7m, 2 | Frankenjura Nord | 星期三 25th 5月 2022 | ||||
2299
points
| 8 | ★ Pussy Walk - with MartinM, katta | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期天 4th 10月 2020 | |||
Worthwhile variant to "Catwalk" with harder moves at the start and a different and slightly softer crux
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2299
points
| 8 | No fat chicks - with MartinM, katta | 16m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | 不值一提 | 星期天 4th 10月 2020 | |||
Unnecessary linkup. The unique section consists of a few moves and chaussy cr*p.
Climb "Rauchende Strapse" and "Pussy Walk" instead.
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2296
points
| 8 8- | ★ FiLo - with Katta | 10m, 3 | Rochlitzer Berg | 一般 | 星期天 15th 5月 2022 | |||
Ok route with long moves from good but small pockets and a few drilled monos.
Did a couple of goes with a dynamic beta, then switched to a static one (ignore the bad edges, cross to the good finger hole from the undercling at the 2nd bolt) and sent immediately. #badroutereading |
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2295
points
| 8 | ★ Catwalk - with katta | 15m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 21st 9月 2020 | |||
Crux offers a choice: bad holds or a long move. 2nd go. Had I committed to the dynamic move right away, i would have had the onsight😤 Felt #soft for the grade.
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2295
points
| 8 | ★★ Derre Henne - with katta | 15m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期一 21st 9月 2020 | |||
Athletic climbing on mostly excellent holds. My beta at the 2nd bolt crux felt pretty brutal, maybe worth revisiting for a more elegant solution. 3rd go
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2294
points
| 8 | ★★★ Ejakulation - with katta | 18m, 9 | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期天 20th 9月 2020 | |||
3rd go Technical start followed by easy climbing. Steep finish with an excellent kneebar rest. Unfortunately very #polished
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2292
points
| 8 | ★ Hartstart - with MartinM | 9m, 4 | Muldetal bei Grimma | ★ 好 | 星期六 12th 9月 2020 | |||
Strict go with no holds behind the righthand edge. Defined, but makes the route interesting.
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2292
points
| 7 | ★★ Hund ohne Wuff - with Katta | 16m | Frankenjura Nord | ★ 好 | 星期六 4th 6月 2022 | |||
Tough Boulder followed by a decent 5
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2292
points
| 8- | ★ Ant-Man - with Katta | 7 | Göttinger Wald | ★ 好 | 星期天 1st 5月 2022 | |||
Funky and wild starting boulder followed by decent climbing with a lot of sand.
Did the boulder semi-statically, still needed a few gos to get it dialled. |
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2290
points
| 8 | ★★★ Reif für die Insel - with MartinM | 17m, 3 | Frankenjura Nord | ★★★ 经典 | 星期一 7th 9月 2020 | |||
Historic and beautiful climb on pockets and edges. Homogeneous and flowy, with a small crux at 3rd bolt. Pink point with an extended 2nd draw (im a wuss), 1st go of the day.
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2289
points
| 8+ | ★★ Roter Teppich | 14m, 6 | Rochlitzer Berg | ★ 好 | 星期六 7th 10月 2023 | |||
Artificial but cool. Toughest down low, a couple of holds are open edges and very condition - dependent.
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This just went without a fight, with couple of caveats:
Plays to my strengths, but the route certainly didn't feel like 7b+ - tbh, 7b seems generous #soft