Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
星期四 23rd 5月 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Stella della Sera - with buschlicht | 22m, 9 | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Coma Profondo - with buschlicht | 20m, 10 | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
6a | ★★★ Ziu Peppinu - with buschlicht | 20m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
星期天 19th 5月 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Egmond - with buschlicht | 20m, 9 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
7c | ★★★ Requiem - with buschlicht | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期二 14th 5月 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Sint crack | 20m | |||||
7a | ★★★ Corvo Bianco | ||||||
6b | ★★ Brutti Caini | 20m | |||||
6c | ★★★ Faccixedda | 30m, 13 | |||||
星期二 2nd 4月 2024 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Corvo Bianco — 2 attempts | ★★ 很好 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Cindy | 30m | ★ 好 | ||||
星期天 12th 11月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a | ★★ Yellow jacket — 2 attempts | 20m | 一般 | ||||
Slippery & sharp. Also it was raining
|
|||||||
星期五 6th 10月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Lezioni di Piano | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Tough to read crux 2 bolts before the chain - heartbreaker. Beautiful route though
|
|||||||
6c | ★★★ Faccixedda | 30m, 13 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
6c | ★★ Mussorgsky | 30m | ★ 好 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Lo zio di Brookleen | 35m, 14 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Pumpy long classic
|
|||||||
星期六 30th 9月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Shostakovic - with Daniela | 30m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
6c | ★★ Stravinsky - with Daniela | 30m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
6c | ★★ Ciajkovsky - with Daniela | 30m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期五 29th 9月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ Penguin Café - with Daniela | ★★ 很好 | |||||
星期三 27th 9月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Sint crack - with Daniela | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期二 26th 9月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Egmond - with Daniela | 20m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
7a | ★★ Yellow jacket - with Daniela | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期三 20th 9月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Demenza Senile | 20m | |||||
6c | ★★★ Faccixedda | 30m, 13 | |||||
6b+ | ★★ Seppiette | 25m | |||||
星期五 8th 9月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6b | ★★ Winter is coming | ||||||
星期二 5th 9月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6c | ★★ Prospettiva newsky | ★★ 很好 | |||||
6b | ★★ Brutti Caini | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
6c | ★★ Prospettiva newsky | ||||||
6c | ★★ Ciajkovsky | 30m | |||||
6b | ★★ Winter is coming | ||||||
6b | ★★ Brutti Caini | 20m | |||||
星期一 22nd 5月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Sint crack - with Stefan | 20m | |||||
Cool climbing up a big crack with lots of good places for handjams.
|
|||||||
7a | ★★★ Corvo Bianco - with Stefan | ★★ 很好 | |||||
The lower part consists of a series of crimpy conglomerate holds. The upper part follows a thin crack that requires jamming and laybacking. Make good use of the rests in the middle!
|
|||||||
6a+ | ★★ Cindy - with Stefan | 30m | ★ 好 | ||||
Nice climbing up a dihedral and a verical wall.
|
|||||||
6c | ★★ Mussorgsky - with Stefan | 30m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Tricky start with a fingercrack leads to a good rest. Then some difficult "hugging the refigerator" moves up an arrete.
|
|||||||
星期天 23rd 4月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Ziu Peppinu | 20m | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Serra sa Siberia | 26m, 11 | |||||
星期六 15th 4月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ L’albero della Vita | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Corvo Bianco — 2 attempts | ||||||
星期五 14th 4月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Vecchio Pietrone — 2 attempts | ||||||
6b | ★★ Chagall — 2 attempts | 30m | |||||
星期五 7th 4月 2023 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Cindy | 30m | |||||
6b+ | ★★ Demenza Senile | 20m | |||||
星期五 11th 11月 2022 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Sint crack - with Ivo | 20m | ★ 好 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Serra sa Siberia - with Ivo | 26m, 11 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
7b | ★ Testa o croce (L2 Arzia dimoniu) - with Ivo | 38m | ★ 好 | ||||
星期二 8th 11月 2022 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6c | ★★ Mussorgsky - with Ivo | 30m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Not everyone's cup of tea. But I liked it. Def on the harder end.
|
|||||||
8a | ★★ Manifesto - with Ivo | 25m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Oh so close.
|
|||||||
7a | ★★ arzia Dimoniu - with Ivo | 28m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Brilliant climb.
|
|||||||
星期天 30th 10月 2022 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6b | ★★ Il Pirata a Due Ruote | 20m | ★ 好 | ||||
6c | ★★★ Faccixedda | 30m, 13 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
7a+ | ★★★ Prima della Pioggia | 25m, 11 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Corvo Bianco | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Stoke
|
|||||||
星期六 29th 10月 2022 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a+ 7a | ★★★ Egmond | 20m, 9 | ★ 好 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Egmond | 20m, 9 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Sint crack | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
6b | ★★ Scorpio | 10m, 7 | ★ 好 | ||||
6c | ★★ Brutto naione | 15m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Sint crack | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期五 21st 10月 2022 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a | ★★ arzia Dimoniu | 28m | ★ 好 | ||||
7b+ | ★★★ Labirinth (L2 La via del dragone) | 38m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Sadly tried as the lady route on the last day in Ulassai. Would love to come back to this route!
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ Scorpio | 10m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
7a | ★★★ Volture (L2 Scorpio to the left) | 25m, 14 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期四 20th 10月 2022 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Egmond — 2 attempts | 20m, 9 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
6b | ★★ Scorpio | 10m, 7 | ★ 好 | ||||
7a | ★★ La Sballona — 2 attempts | ★★ 很好 | |||||
6a | ★★★ Ziu Peppinu | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期一 26th 9月 2022 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Porcupine - with Daniela | 25m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
7a | ★★ nano Ghiacciato - with Daniela | ★★ 很好 | |||||
星期五 23rd 9月 2022 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7c | ★★ Valzer Triste - with Daniela | ★★ 很好 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Conversazione Platonica - with Daniela | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Lezioni di Piano - with Daniela | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6b | ★★ Winter is coming - with Daniela | ★★ 很好 | |||||
星期二 20th 9月 2022 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Vecchio Pietrone - with Daniela | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期一 19th 9月 2022 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7b+ 7c | ★★★ Stella della Sera - with Daniela | 22m, 9 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
6c | ★★ Prospettiva newsky - with Daniela | ★★ 很好 | |||||
6b+ | ★★ L’albero della Vita - with Daniela | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期一 30th 5月 2022 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
8a | ★★ Manifesto | 25m | |||||
5 giri, 2 gg
|
|||||||
星期五 8th 10月 2021 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6c | ★★ Stravinsky | 30m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Not the warmup I was expecting, haha. Super good technical climbing, and quite sustained.
|
|||||||
星期天 3rd 10月 2021 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a+ 6c+ | ★★ Shostakovic | 30m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Brilliant but obscenely sandbagged. Generally interesting and flowy climbing on cool features, but with a couple of seriously nails cruxes.
Oh, also, the giant flake at the second last bolt seems to be coming loose from the upper left corner... 6c+? Not even in the realm of possibility. I tried to do this as my warmup and was very surprised. The only way that grade is plausible is if you escape into the neighbouring routes for the cruxes. Otherwise, the best beta I found involved doing an iron cross on small crimps at crux #1, and doing a deadpoint cross off a half pad three finger sidepull at crux #2. These boulders belong on an enduro 7b+... |
|||||||
星期六 2nd 10月 2021 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Serra sa Siberia | 26m, 11 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Haha fell of that boulder at the start three more times before finally sending it; one hold higher each time!
I went left between the last two bolts, as the old bolt line suggests. Actually I think this route just scrapes into 3 star territory for me. The top is substantially easier than the boulder down low, but really technical and easy to drop it in the second half (even though it's physically fairly easy). Quite a complete route. |
|||||||
6b+ | ★★ L’albero della Vita | ★★ 很好 | |||||
Not obvious climbing and surprisingly nice. 1 fall on warmup going the wrong way.
|
|||||||
星期四 30th 9月 2021 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Faccixedda | 30m, 13 | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Came back a year later and did it first go. Absolutely brilliant. Varied and sustained. And the rock is so improbably varied in type, offering perfect holds the whole way up.
|
|||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Serra sa Siberia | 26m, 11 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Super complicated to onsight as there are holds everywhere. Once you figure out it's really just two cool boulders. I can see why this got upgraded, but the one to the right is still markedly harder (and didn't get upgraded?). Put the draws/ticks up and had one quick go at the end of the day. I guess it will go tomorrow.
|
|||||||
6a+ | ★★ Cindy | 30m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Nice. Soft.
|
|||||||
星期一 27th 9月 2021 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a | ★★ arzia Dimoniu | 28m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
So hard! Failed again at the second last bolt. Absolutely brilliant though.
|
|||||||
星期三 22nd 9月 2021 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6c | ★★ Brutto naione - with Daniela | 15m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ La Via del Dragone - with Daniela | ★★ 很好 | |||||
6b | ★★ Scorpio - with Daniela | 10m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期二 21st 9月 2021 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7b | ★★ Caccia alle Streghe - with Daniela | ★★ 很好 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Corvo Bianco - with Daniela | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6b | ★★ Brutti Caini - with Daniela | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期一 20th 9月 2021 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
7a | ★★ arzia Dimoniu | 28m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Absolutely brilliant technical climbing. All the holds are good but this requires lots of body tension to move between them. Some crack climbing involved, but it's not the crack climb it promises to be from the outset. And one of the coolest drop-knees I've ever done!
Several of the bolts are very awkward to put draws onto. I was too tired on this day to hold the body tension to get the draws in place at several points and resorted to dogging. |
|||||||
6c | ★★ Brutto naione | 15m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Short but very nice and surprisingly action-packed. Technical and fingery.
|
|||||||
6b+ | ★★ Coma Profondo | 20m, 10 | 一般 | ||||
I think I did this OS last year but can't remember.
This year the first move took me 3 or 4 goes, mostly because I couldn't believe how hard a boulder move it was on a 6b+. I pretty much pulled all my body weight up with one hand on an okay pinch and just one foot lightly on the wall. Afterwards it's a pleasant walk up juggy concretions. Inconsistent! |
|||||||
星期天 19th 9月 2021 - Ogliastra | |||||||
Jerzu Palazzo d'Inverno | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Cindy - with Daniela | 30m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
7a | ★★ Ha da Vení Baffone - with Daniela | 25m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Sesso & amore - with Daniela | 22m | ★★ 很好 | ||||