攀登 in Presten having 攀爬攻略

Finally no snow anymore and t-shirt weather is there

First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day

Amazing route!

With Benno, 10:15h, incredible midnightsun! 4h decent do the car

Korstoget into Vestpillaren

Zustieg sehr anspruchsvoll, Einstieg schwer zu finden

Nice way to get down from the other boulders as well instead of walking all the way around.

Video of my Beta, there are diffrent betas on the mantle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9ApRkS12YU&ab_channel=Lovricsports

Holds are nice jugs, very hard mantle in the end.

Video of me doing the boulder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9ApRkS12YU&ab_channel=Lovricsports

Maybe a bit soft for the grade

Such a classic line. For parties wanting to move fast, it can safely be done in 7 pitches by simul-climbing to pitch 2 & then again to P5. From here, pitch out as in the guidebook to a nice ledge 10m above the top of slanting corner (just before the loose block and short wide section). 10/11 can then be linked with a 60m & careful rope management

Went full Joika with this one. Took some time & cursing. Thankfully late September so there were no witnesses. Kafaaan!

Super nice steep climbing with cool movement. Spent 4 rope solo sessions working it. Top 2/3 is fine but initial sequence of moves to establish in the flared jam is right at my limit. Taller friends can skip this sequence & just jam. Need be stronger to make plugging gear at the start feel more secure (the pro is good, the climber is weak).

Don’t think this is 7a?

Rope solo in 4,5 hours, Managed to do it in a total of 6 pitches with an 80 metre rope.

Easy to link into 3 pitches with 60m rope (belay as close as possible to the roof on P1). Good rock & safe gear.

Some great climbing with one of Presten´s best pitches down low (P3). The runout pitches arn´t so bad. After the 6+ (P7), quality drops off quickly. Because of this, it´s quite common to traverse at Storhylla & finish up other lines

The leaning groove pitch would be a crag classic anywhere in the world. Engaging stemming with all of Presten below your feet. Epic!!

Amazing route in a postcard setting

In the rain from Slanting Corners onwards.

Superfin led med bra klättring nästan hela tiden. Klättrade alla kruxpitcher.

Classic, but so much People! 14 ours of which 6 waiting in Line...

Väldigt kul, speciellt sista hälften. Mycket smearande och avigheter. Den ackumulerade distansen klättrad det senaste året är antagligen på färre höjdmeter än distansen klättrad under denna enda dag... Inga häng i rep. Jag och Katta följde Calle. 7h totalt upp och ner.

Trad

Trad

pumpig och skojig. Rep 10/7-15, bättre i år! Högkvalitativ boulder på perfekt sten. På gränsen till trestjärnig

pumpy traverse with a somewhat tricky topout

Quite a journey!

Climbed in just 5.5 hours

swapping leads