线路 in 挪威

P1/P2 can easily be linked & helps speed things up on busy summer days. It´s also common to climb right at P5 to the abseil line, as the final pitches are not of the same quality & it´s common for the rope to get snagged on the flake above

Classic line heading up the full height of Presten. Starts on right side of main face, about 20m left of a steep choked gully. Abseil retreat possible with two ropes without leaving gear up to end of pitch 4.

1. Up centre of three shallow corners, then traverse left to crack which leads to a small ledge with a chain belay to the right.

2. Follow groove then up to flake/block on the left. Continue into a thin finger-crack and continuation to bolt/chain belay.

3. Up the narrow groove then left up a diagonal ramp to bolt/chain belay.

4. Short wall and groove then up to bolt/chain belay. This pitch can be linked into the following with careful rope management.

5. Move up to right of large block and follow cracks to belay on top of block.

6. Up thin cracks/grooves to a good ledge, then traverse 20m left (some rope drag and loose rock) to belay on a higher ledge in base of groove.

7. Follow groove and flake until it becomes a thin crack, then step left into a parallel crack system. Continue up into a left-facing groove to belay above a bulge in the corner.

8. Continue up the groove then right into slabby groove. Belay on either of two ledges at the base of the 'Slanting Corner'.

9. The 'Slanting Corner'. Up the clean groove to tiny ledge, then trend left before heading right (can be climbed direct, but harder). Below up right at large block.

10. Up left across ledges to a large loose flake jammed in a groove. Climb carefully up past the flake, then continue left up a chimney groove and below at its top, below open groove.

11. Follow the open groove up and right to its top, then move down and right for several metres, before traversing horizontally right. Make delicate moves around right into the grassy exit gully.

12. Scramble up grassy gully to top.

Starts same place as Høyre, but continues left and traverses across Senterpartiet before finishing upwards and slightly left. Clips the third anchor from the right, to the left of the big crack at the top. Has its own bolts all the way.

A classic & the first route to dry on the wall

The route at the very right on this piece of rock. To keep the grade one should stay on the arete at the crux, and not go too far left.

Beautiful series of cracks. Very easy to protect. Comfortable belay stances and descent on foot.

In the guidebook, the first pitches of Gollum and Smeagul are reveresed. Gollum starts at the top of the block.

Popular because of the Top50 tag in the guidebook, this is a winding, disjointed line that makes communicating with your partner difficult. Will possibly feel like a hard 4+ if your not used to jamming.

Ant Line on Maurpillaren, Gollum on Gandalf wall or many of the routes at Paradiset or Rørvika Lower Wall Right make for more enjoyable introductions to Lofoten climbing.

Left side of the obvious arete when you approach the crag.

Route in the big crack between Snikene Kommer and Batman. Bolts to the right of the crack.

Right side of the 'Hoggtanna' arete.

New route (2020) between Rød Front and Brun skjorte.

Downgraded 2019.

The route used to be trad (and is still a nice trad climb), but has been bolted in recent years.

Some rocks may seem a bit loose. Might need some attention after winter 2020. Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway.

New route on the arete between Dypøkologi and Mr. Fyffes.

Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:5-

Up into the dihedral. Downgraded 2019.

Two variants. Keeping to the left is slightly easier (5).

Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:6-

Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:5-

Same start as Jacobs Disipler, but goes left and up after the first good ledge. A direct version with a harder start was bolted in 2018, which is probably grade 7a+ (French).

New route (2020) on the upper left side of the crag. Starts just right of a big round hole in the wall (a giant's kettle/"jettegryte").

Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:4+

Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:4

Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:5-

The height is estimated to 30m. A 60m rope works just enough when you get back down as long as you unclip on your way down. Grade set according to latest updated book which is Climb Norway. Oslo guide has this at NWG:6

Start at the chalked jugs and up the crack line to double bolt anchor.

On the left side of the freestanding rock, following the left arete and then up the face on the right of the arrete. You can use the wall on the left too, until you have to traverse out right. Has its own anchor at the top of the face.