线路 in Western Cape

Mantle the sloper.

Start as The Secret to Olive's Preserve Cupboard but climb straight up

Video

Crouch start from the slopery hold.

Sit-start with jug and climb up the crack.

Sit start

Sitstart on the ledge, climb up and left to TO. (The crack and holds to the right of it are off).

Standstart, climb the super high wall to TO. A significant landmark boulder for this area.

Sit-start at the back of the roof and move back out via pockets and edges to the lip.

Start with jam in big horizontal crack on base boulder, reach out far to good hold on lip, reach far with right to round hold and TO

Sit-start and climb up left.

Sitstart as for Bow-Hunting Skills, RH up to crimp in the roof, LH up to crimp in roof, then climb the wall on the RHS of the corner/nose. TO.

Climb the pockety slab.

Right hand arete pinch and dyno to jug then TO

SS on jugs on arête of boulder A1, reach across onto the top lip of boulder A, move across to the center of the boulder and climb upside down and through the roof to top out on the opposite side.

SS in jug, traverse R staying below the lip to the slot, continue R and TO

From the grassy sleeping cave ascend to the huge descent gully to reach the huge chockstone obstruction. Traverse 40m out to the right to a left facing corner.

1. [15] 45m

   Climb up from the beacon for 3m then move right up the corner for 2m. Move right onto the white face with the big 'Kaapse' (Cape) jugs to a big ledge.

2. [19] 45m

   Walk 10m to the left to a cairn (and the world's softest belay). Climb up the obvious gnarled crack to the left of a left-facing recess. Halfway up the crack runs out. Then climb the grey slab on small holds; this looks blank from below but goes, continue to a ledge beneath a large roof.

3. [19] 25m

   Move to the right then up a crack to the top. Step around the corner and take a few steps to a wonderful platform below the overhang.

4. [19] 45m

   Climb up to the base of the roof then move left on rickety flakes to a break through the roof via an awkward notch. Once over the roof climb diagonally right to the edge of the buttress. Climb the slot for a few hard moves and continue up to a 2m wide stance (with teeny cairn)

5. [19] 45m

   Climb the crack to a jam crack then through an overlap and up a further series of cracks to the top.

6. [20] 25m

   (new final pitch) The route previously ended on the prominent walk-off ledge. A new pitch was added to finish at the summit. This pitch heads up the white face using the slightly overhanging recess with a razor sharp vertical flake. At the first overlap head up left and then with balancey moves head out left to the break in the big roof above. Tricky and serious.

Aim slightly right of Almost Perfect

Start in the groove. traverse L below the top, drop down onto the sloping shelf, then continue up and around the corner.

Top rope problem.

Access from the other side of the wall

SS inside the cave at the back on slopers, climb L and out of the cave, through the cubby hole and up the high face.

Sit start, top out up arete

Sit start, climb the prow, TO

The route climbs easily from the ledge past the huge block to under the red roof. And there is a sting for the last move or two.

Descent: Walk 10m or so left to the thread point and biner at the top of Sling or walk off to the right.

Stand start on the LH side of the cave on the crimps, move up to a rail and up R to the roof.

Number 4 is on the opposite side of the boulder. SS on the jugs below a small overhang and move onto the sloping face to TO.

Climb the arête.

Start as for Lion, move diagonally L to jug and move vertically on sharp pinch to TO.

Start at Homoscedastic Tetragonality, up to the crystal and finish along Surfer’s Corner.

Start as Hip Hip Chin Chin, move right into Accidentally Overlooked, top out as for Xibalba

SS, move L and R to follow the arete.

The seaside face of boulder C has some amazing high ball problems on a smooth face. I have not climbed them due to their height and the potential of falling, but there are at least 3 problems. Please don’t bolt.

Start with left hand on undercling pocket (x) and right hand on Porthole (x), right hand to triangular sloper (x), left hand to fat sloper (x), right hand to top (x). Rail is on for feet.

Sitstart with arete between your legs and do a tricky powerful start and TO.

Start as for Aikona but traverse right along the big undercling and then up to a rail and further on to good grips and top-out.

Phlip Olivier (phlip olivier)

Easiest approach along Arrow Face Right Face traverse. Abseil point from the cherry tree below enormous detached feature mid traverse. Abseil down for the first 2 pitches from “base camp”. 50m rope just adequate.

1. [21] 20m Climb break in the centre of the wall in line with the abseil to a ledge.

2. [20] 30m Climb the short wall above through the roof. Up cleaned rock, slightly right at the small overhang, pull through and diagonally left to the cherry tree.

3. [12] 15m Scramble on the outside of the anvil-shaped feature and left to the tip.

4. [22] 25m From the tip of the anvil rail 1m left and climb straight up. Up the slab above to a thin crack break above small overlap. Up this, up to a higher rail to rest on the right under another small overhang. Up to the small ledge above on the left.

5. [22] 15m Straight up to the corner leading to the roof. Move left until an undercling and footholds enable one to reach above the overhang. Up the wall on the left to a ledge.

6. [22] 30m Walk 15m left to a corner leading to a rail through the roof. Climb up and left to the blunt arete. Straight up this. Continue in a straight line to chain on a big block in the middle of the bushy ledge.

7. [22] 40m Start 5m to the left on a white arete. Climb up on the pockets, up the break above tending left to below the obvious undercut chimney feature. Puzzle this out and finish at a chain just above.

8. [16] 40m Up 5m to a ledge. Walk left and climb the juggy wall to the top.

On the same level on the ledge to the right is a chain abseil point. 4 abseils off chains around blocks take you back to the traverse line.

Start lower than the left slab.

Start as Accidentally Overlooked and pull over the lip off the slopes as for Compression Session. No eliminations.

No anchors

Sit start on the layaway climb on good holds and then a couple of painful crimps into the crack on the L. Move up to the jug.

Sit-start with both hands in M rail, climb through the tunnel using stemming techniques. Then go up the bulging face to a jug. Now top out through the hole... A Truly fatuous problem.

Video

3rd pitch variation to Donkey Serenade. Climb as for Piglet the Puglet until you get to the white streak then continue as for Little Miss Daisy.

Sit start from left hand on the pinch.

Sustained start, guess at grade, needs other opinions.

Left hand in pocket on left rail, right hand on sloper. Move directly up and top out.

Start on jugs, reach left to slopers, climb directly up to top out. Is this the big wall project one directory up?

Climb Coal Chamber but finish slightly left.

Video

Traverse from right to left just below the top of the boulder. Eliminate the top of the boulder. Start up A9 to about 1m from the top then traverse leftwards and finish up the left arete (the top of A1).

Sit-start with corner hold and climb up diagonally right.

Start standing on the ledge with BH in the rail, move under the roof and around to the good pocket, continue to TO.

Sit-start at the back of the roof, to the L of ??. Climb through the roof and onto the slab staying L of ??. You need a good spotter.

Start with hands on the lowest handhold in the crack and feet on the obvious foothold and climb the roof crack/seam. This needs a Sit start!

Sit-start below the groove / crack, move straight up and top-out.

Climb the face, to TO. Somewhat unusual.

Start at back of cave, climb directly up to top out. Getting around the lip is a tricky mantle which is either technical or a grovel depending on your level of skill.

Traverse small face right to left start on flat M and finishing up wide crack around left side.

Sit start as for F3, climb diagonally left to poor undercling, then climb directly up on edges and slopers to top out.

Start with pocket for right hand and climb out left.

Sit start to left of face. Climb face on rails to top out.

BS, climb to TO.

Start as Poison Dwarf but traverse right and finish as Horny Devil.