线路 in 西班牙 for selected grade

6a+ german guidebook

german guidebook 5c

5b to 1. anchor, then 6a

A beautiful long pitch with some amazing holds, albeit some are polished. The route name is written in white at the start of the route. Latest Rockfax and 2022 local guidebook grade it 6a.

Slightly harder (more sustained) than its left neighbor.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

crux at 1. bolt then pleasently easy

Starts up an easy slab below a large hole, then trends slightly left up the line of white holds.

THE classic multi-pitch in 'El Chorro'. Now fully bolted up to the end of pitch 8 for where 4 x 35m abseils will get you back to the ground. The bolting is somewhat spaced in places so it may be worth taking some supplementary gear if this is at your limit. Gear is also useful for the 9th pitch which is otherwise a steep, bolt-less scramble with quite a lot of loose stones. The popularity of this route have left their mark, especially on the crux sections of pitch 4 and 5. Those 6a may feel well on the upper end of the scale therefore. Semi hanging belays add to the joy. A top class route. Look out for the mini Budda in a pocket come hole.

For the descent there are several options. Some people abseil back down the route from the top of pitch 5. In case you continue until the end of pitch 8, you can abseil via a 4x35m abseil piste. A third option is to continue up the easy 9th pitch. From the top of pitch 9 follow red points upwards right to a notch in the skyline. From there follow cairns and red dots down right into the valley, which will eventually turn left and lead you to the exit path of Caminito del Rey.

Different guidebooks 5b-6a.

Excellent line through the lower huge holes and then a bit right through the upper smooth wall. The upper wall seems impossible for the grade at a first glance, but there is a way through. Recommended! Polished...

Make sure to spot at the start or bring a stick-clip.

Follow a small crack to the top.

The topo is outdated. This line and "Soy Caliente" have their own anchor, respectively.

More jugs!

Continuous on nice pockets to the top.

Kontinuierlich in schöner Lochkletterei zum Umlenker.

Vía con buenos agarres hasta la reunión.

A perplexing route that should be climbed via the path of least resistance (corner).

Follow the crack to the anchor with the crux at the start. Shares anchor with "Shake your money maker".

1. Comienzo de la vía por una fisura que sale recta desde el canalizo donde empieza la vía. R en árboles un pelín incomoda.

2. Continúa a la derecha de la R por el diedro/chimenea. R equipada justo al salir del diedro a la derecha.

3. Sigue recto montándose a la derecha del techo por una fisura en diedro. R equipada.

4. Paso inicial de placa con 3 parabolts protegiendola y resto por una fisura recta. Este paso se puede ser escaqueado hacia la izquierda evitando la placa (5+ sería asi). R equipada.

5. Fisura para salir ya hasta la cima. R no equipada.

with right wall 5c

The next line of bolts left of Paton

A nice little expedition. The slightly overhanging crux in pitch 3 is well protected. Slab and vertical climbing everywhere else. The description in the Rockfax guide is confusing – Just follow the bolts.

There are new belays in P1 and P2, so that the route is possible with a 60m rope. There are bolts that continue above, but grading and extent is unknown.

A few exposed moves higher up make for a worthwhile climb.

Diversified face climbing to the anchors of 'R5'

Abwechslungsreiche Wandkletterei zum Umlenker von 'R5'

Escalada variada a la reu de 'R5'.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Face climbing with lots of pockets straight up - passing the crag of 'Bergfreundeweg'. Nice and not steep at all.

Leicht liegende Wand in gutem löchrigem Kalk am Riss vom 'Bergfreundeweg' direkt vorbei zum Umlenker am Gipfelbuch.

Escalada vertical con mucho agarre. Cruza la fisura de 'Bergfreundeweg'.Si pasas la reunion accedes al buzón de cumbre.

Hay quien la considera 6a+.

The leftmost line on the central wall before some small bushes. Long homogenous wall climbing on crimps and holes.

#sitstart #topout

pockets and crimps at the beginning, gets much easier on the second half.