线路 in 瑞士 for selected grade

5a obl.

5a obl.

#loose

Nuts, middle Friends, Slings

1x 0.3-3

1x 0.25-3

1x 0.25-1; 2x 2-3; 1x 4

Stände auch zu Fuss erreichbar (5a,4c obl.) Friends: 1x0.3-3, Keile, Microfriends

Cams and nuts necessary.

Start at the bolted belay point marked with blue paint. Route follows an arete to top out to a small peak. All belay stations consist of a ring bolt and an expansion bolt. Protection consists of a mixture of expansion bolts and natural gear. The climb is occasionally run out, route finding is sometimes difficult and bailing could be complex. The rock quality is generally good but there is still plenty of loose rock on the route.

From the top it's possible to hike directly down the mountain via a valley to the right of the climb. It is also possible to hike to the summit of Bockmattli.

A complete topo is available in the Schweiz Plaisir Ost Guidebook.

Pitches:

1. 3c To belay in cave.

2. 4b Right out of the cave and then left and up to the next belay.

3. 4b Start by heading right from belay ledge, and then up

4. 3b Continue up left of the arete to the to comfortable belay ledge with possible bail path heading left

5. 5a Follow exposed arete up to next belay

6. 4c Follow steep ramp beside a crack up to belay

7. 5a Crux of the route at the second bolt just

8. 4c Follow blue markings to the left of the belay, then continue on along the dihedral (bolts). The third or fourth bolt is on a slab to the right after which a ledge traverses to the right. The belay is around the corner.

9. 3c Along the ridge to the top.

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/piz-badile-nordkante/

From the belay after the first pitch of the Normalweg directly to the top.

Succession of four or five walls with different variants possible on each. There are some passages of easier terrain for walking / scrambling between the walls.

1. Schwere Wand: 4c, 5c+ or some of the routes on "Schwere Wand".

2. Wand 1: 5a or 5c+

3. Wand 2: 4b or 5a+,

4. Wand 3: 6a, 5b+ or 4c. Alternatively, you can traverse to the "Christbaumwand" further left and climb "Saunatrip".

5. Wand 4/Spez: 3a, 5b, 5b+, 6a or 5b+.

The route book can be found after the final 3a pitch.

After climbing the route, you can continue either on "Ostgrat"[195129846] or one of the routes on "Turm".

vegetated

à côté de Choupinette, dans le même esprit mais plus facile, une belle fissure

traverse

est enfin terminée et bien sécurisée pour débutants mais déjà technique.elle est courte mais très amusante

rechts der ursprünglichen Linie 3