线路 in Idaho for selected grade

Chimney in deep corner, upper ledge start

Really good route in a dihedral left of Lucky Pierre. Ends on the last 12 feet of Lucky Pierre which is pretty challenging for 5.7.

In the guidebooks and on Mountain project this route is indicated to use the Heat Miser anchors but this route now has it's own anchor. The new anchor is to the right and about ten feet higher than the anchors for Heat Miser which makes the route about 60 feet long. Mostly 5.7 climbing, but the final moves to the anchor follow a crack past a burly bulge, and are closer to 5.9.

First pitch is easy slab, then follow a finger crack until it peters out. Belay from ledge. Third pitch follows a nice crack to anchor at tree. Walk off up and right.

This route offers a great hand crack most of the way but there are surface holds and bullet proof feet everywhere, so it can be climbed with minimal crack technique. Protection is ample, up to #3 cams for the higher sections of the crack. Take small gear for the crux bulge to the anchors. The guide books and Mountain Project indicate that this climb is 40 feet to the anchor, but this route is much much longer than that. I use a verifiable forty meter factory cut rope (131 feet) at the Black Cliffs and my rope once hung from the anchors was fully three feet off the ground. This route is at least 65 feet long.

Solid hand crack on perfect granite. You will have to build a trad anchor in ample medium sized cracks at the top.

Pro crack

Climb a crack system to the left of a triple roof formation. Move To the right over the roof when you can and follow the crack to the top. Plenty of places to built a gear anchor. The guide booK says there are bolt an hors but we did not find any. There is an Excellent rap station to the climbers left on a huge ledge just left of Finer Niner.

Slab start to a bolt. Standard rack up to #2. Rap anchors.

Shares anchor with Drunken Cowboy.

Anchors are pretty rusty.

The name of the route is painted on the rock at the base of the climb. Like a lot of climbs at the black cliffs this can be done as a trad climb, sport climb or mixed. Plenty of jugs on the arête most of the way, or you can climb it harder by ignoring the jugs and instead doing hand jamming to fist jamming and then Chicken winging your way up the crack and out onto the bulgy crux next to bolt four. A #6 cam will come in handy for the ow section. A .5 will work in the small crack just left of the bulge under the undercling hold to protect the crux move. Or Just clip the bolt for more peace of mind on the big move pulling up onto the higher face. Might be pg 13 down low if done as a sport climb with no gear in the crack.

Finger crack with good jug holds on the face if you can't make the crack work. Some say the grade should be 5.8 if you just use the crack. Very good rock on this climb. Takes medium to small Cams the whole way.

Hand crack for first half of the climb before transitioning to a demanding face climb. Afternoon shade.

Just what the name says, stemming and jamming, hands and feet. . Solid hand crack on the right for most of the climb.

Mostly a finger crack with lots of surface rugiosity to help you out. The route eats Small to midsize gear up to about A #1. Nice fist crack at the top which can take larger pieces. Gear anchor. Walk off a 5.5 ramp to the right as you face the crack.

Fingers to wide crack climb with lots of surface holds. Really fun lead which is on the stiff side of 5.7.

Brilliant ever changing crack. Starts behind the boulder with about eighteen feet of comfortable chimney climbing before you reach the crack. You can toss your rope over the boulder before tying in and Then use the boulder to protect the chimney moves. Your first piece will be in the main crack once you reach it. Good features to help with foot and hand jams as the crack continues eventually turning into an off-width toward the top. Take a double rack from .2 - #3. #2 & 3 for the anchor. Rap station is to the climbers right, or take your chances finding the walk off.

Finger to full on hand crack. Lie-backing the crack behind the flake is the crux. With small to medium gear.gear.

The climbing starts on easy slab until you reach the flake & then things get vertical. There is no protection before you reach the flake but none is needed. Climb the flake using slab and other features for feet. All protection is in the flake and in the crack behind the flake once it widens. Climbing is more difficult after the flake widens and gets even more vertical. Bring doubles in mid ranges from .75 through 1, triples in #2 & 3 saving One of each for the anchor. This climb is a fabulous lead.

Climb the juggy arete using the crack to the right for protection and additional holds. Take plenty of small cams and stoppers. You can finish on either the Fat Ankles anchors or the to anchors to the right.

You can top rope from the Heat Miser anchors or from the higher anchors to the left of heat Miser, but it is much harder to get to these anchors and probably bumps the grade. The route follows a nice hand to fist crack most of the way with good feet. Protects pretty well most of the way on lead. Crux is the finish in the overhung offwidth with imbedded stones.