The first pitch is like a 6a+ (I tribble checked the route before going), however there are two extensions right now, one direct up extension which seems very new, so I had to take here to figure out where the heck to go next. On the right side there is also an extension, which might be the original extension, just one crux in the beginning then all the way jaggy up. This is a very confusing bolted route. The new extension is not even available in 2021 update PDF topo, and by its nature line it seems very logically just to go direct up now!
Bolted it on 2003 and last tried it on 2007. Came back 2022 and climbed it first try putting the quick-draws. Didn't remember it was such a cool route with holds on perfect placings. Very alpine yet a sport route. You have to be solid at the grade.
One of the 4 mega classics (Morde la Manzana de la Locura, Thor and Te Espero a la Salida being the other 3). Big holds in a very steep overhang with a crazy last move to a Horn/Jug. Must do.
FFA. What a lovely feeling topping this one out.
It feels very hard. Would like more people to get on it for better idea of grade.
I'd say its between 5.11b and 5.11c in my estimates
Hard for 25....I'd say more consistent with other 26s I've done in SA so far. 2nd try.
Beta spoiler - don't try to climb in the corner seam at the first crux. Stay right. Right foot way right - left smear and from there undercling go straight for the jug up top (if you're tall) or if you're shorter (like me ) take the side pull with the left hand (on the Arete) and then go for the jug on the top.
