攀登 in World by Dmitry Linkov having trad-cpr 或 ascent-date

first for the grade on trad. a couple of laps on top rope ended in an almost successful first lead attempt. same result on the second attempt and didn't have energy left for third one. came back a few weeks later and sent it first go after a TR warm up. didn't feel too hard or desperate with all the beta dialled. milk that after-crux jug for as much as you can and you shouldn't have a problem with the remaining sequence.

few laps on the top rope to work the moves and sort out the gear on first day, followed by successful redpoint the next day after a warm-up lap. Great laybacks and bomber gear. I wouldn't say it has a distinct crux but the pump definitely gets ya by the end.

Sent it on my third trip to the area and on the fourth go overall. Very inspiring line and one of the best trad climbs in the blue mountains (probably best corner climb) very happy to break into the grade on this one.

Liked the cruxy fingery section. Wish it could be longer

working out crux sequences and gear on top rope. lower crux has a very sustained sequence which I stick 50% of the time, it's got good gear. the top crux after rest cave is very powerful but it's just one move really and you can have a great rest before. Found a reasonably good #3 placement in the horizontal break on the right of the cave which I think should protect top crux reasonably well (looks better than all the super thin gear in the main crack)

Nice delicate moves in the first part lead to pumpy bouldery finish. Classic!

After dogging this on lead a few days ago and doing 2 toppies jumped on this today and sent first go. Preplaced second piece of gear to feel a bit more comfortable with moves off the deck. One of my favourites in Arapiles and a bit hard for the grade. Would probably go at 24 on the onsight but certainly not that bad once you get the moves and gear dialled.

definitely one of the best trad line in the mountains overall and surely best for the grade. Went easily this time

Hiked up again the next day and sent it first go. Mega climbing in unreal position.

second go. double ropes

After mistakenly jumping on Salmonella Crack last year I came back for this one and man - it did deliver! Great hand jamming test piece. One one the best indeed and the approach is only 10 min (not counting abseils obviously). Bring long sling or piece of rope of 5-6m long to put around the block to abseil to the start of the climb (that’s after you abseil initial 30m to the ledge). Bring triples of 0.75-3 plus few 0.5s as a minimum (no #4) and maybe an extra 3 and 2 to feel comfy. First half is really sustained but it’s not hard for 21. Would probably be 20 at Organ Pipes. Def worth the trip to Molle Creek area

Really nice route with great moves and gear. Not easy to onsight but once I figured the moves it went pretty easy on next go. Had a victory skinny dip in Esk river afterwards

went second go. really love this - my favourite in the Gorge!

booty #1 camalot spotted. worth the effort if you keen

absolute classic! onsight attempt ended after 10 meters when I got outrageously pumped trying to place too much gear from strenuous layback position. was too much even for my big abs haha. did a few top ropes after that finding better gear placement stances and some good stemming rests. had to fight for quite a bit on the next lead attempt and it went. thanks to Jimmy for lending me a few small cams

Great little line. Blew my onsight few meters up trying to go for a jug off insecure fingerlock. I think it’s a 21 move indeed or I’m just getting weak haha. Rest is fairly cruizy

I'd say guidebook grading (20) is certainly more accurate. a bit thought provoking gear in places (only by Frog's high standards though) but stances to think and place it are great as long as you can manage calf burn:)

some awesome jamming action in a very atmospheric place. exited via the crack on the left when main crack gets vegetated 3 m below the top. felt relatively easy because of the abundance of friction (pretty sharp rock) and some good stances.

did it clean second go after falling at the crux on the onsight attempt. Very nice techy sequences. One of the best I've done in Araps so far. Wouldn't call it runout as you've got a super bomber gear just half a meter below your feet when you place another good piece of pro

first time on Samarkand for both me and the second. Rapped in via abseil route (single plus a half rope which we also used as a haul line for backpack) in 3 abseils. Led all the pitches and got completely smashed by the end of 5th pitch. I also was a bit nervous about timing and making sure I'll have enough juice to finish the leads so I wasn't in proper send mode and rested a lot on gear. Second pitch is definitely mega and middle of the third pitch is really nice too. The rest was average climbing on pretty average rock but the line definitely gets the uber classic status for the position and effort. First pitch slab was completely wet all the way but luckily not very hard. It's also definitely a nice idea to find a way to stick clip first bolt on the second pitch (like 1m stick) coz the start is wet and bouldery. Great day out!

retro flash after trying this on top rope a year ago but technically a redpoint. pretty cruizy once you place that first good gear in

Bottom cruxy section is not too bad if you place gear quickly, trust your feet and keep moving. Had a bit of a fight higher up in one section as I was not sure whether to layback it or jam. Definitely one of the best at the grade I've done anywhere

Long overdue send. One of the best trad lines in the mountains. Classic! First pitch was as dry as it can possibly be with only few wet patches.

great route!

fabulous climb! linked pitches one and two easily without much rope drag. grades are a bit soft, bring lots of purple cams. Third pitch is a full value for 23. Felt really hard so had to pull on gear in a few places. Belayed on 3 rusty but solid carrots (bring bolt plates) and rapped off on 70m rope from the ringbolts 3 meters to the left

first 20 trad onsight. absolutely loved the climb!

savage route for sure, my hands are just big enough to make it sane (if I work on my fist technique). unfortunately quite dirty and wet in places (as of mid december 2022) to seriously contemplate the idea if leading it soon.

finally got the tick. finding a good knee-lock rest before face climbing section is a key to success

one of the best lines on Cook Ovens which surprisingly does not get that many ascents. Definitely can and should be done as a single pitch. First part will consume all your big gear (not bigger than 4) while the second part will go on small cams and medium nuts. on the softer side of 21 70m rope JUST reaches the ground on the stretch on the abseil

1st pitcn - nothing impressive, average rock and a few hardish moves. I think it's best to belay not directly below chimney but rather on a ledge few meters below by the sandy block.. 2nd pitch - brilliant in its uniqueness. good gear and really safe especially if you bring #6. I'd say it's best to build a semi-hanging belay rather than continue up pitch 3 especially if you second is not very strong - they will need your encouragement:) 3rd pitch - couple of hard opening moves while the rest is not too hard. It's best to keep a few #1s for belay at the end of this pitch. I used them all on the pitch and had a hard time finding good pro options. 4th pitch - not sure my leader went the correct way, probably too far to the left which made it harder

bailing on this one last year due to running out of gear - happy to come back for the unfinished business. Climbing felt easy but I still was pretty slow and gripped - I guess it's the cold, some dubious rock and committing sections above smallish gear down low that raise your anxiety level heading into the more enjoyable but exposed top crack section. Thanks to California guys on the sport route next to us for support and some easy talking.

tempted to call it my first 21 trad onsight but unfortunately it's not 21. tad harder than Eternity so I'd say 19. Still super cool and fun! Middle diagonal crack is awesome jamming testpiece

wish I had #4 with me. #3 will do though

almost as happy with this tick as with Birdman. still felt pretty desperate at the cruxes

first climb at the Ben this trip and glad I still remember how to climb this thing - didn't even get pumped this time haha

one of my favourites in Wolgan. really cool move through the roof followed by sustained and super good finger-locking sequences. Didn't do well on the onsight but was able to send it on my second trip no probs. foot slipped a few times and I was hanging just on my fingerlocks - that's how good they are!

technically speaking - first 21 on trad, but that's just a one move wonder so not really counting it. those breaks were dirty and sandy - had to do a bit of clean-up before placing gear

clean repeat and no clipping bolts.

love the thin start, great middle section and nice offwidth at the top. did the direct start but had to briefly touch the pillar with left foot so only counting 20 for now

One of the best 23s I climbed: engaging trad start, amazing technical sport section with lots of funky rests, unbelievable position at the end of the world. Came off at third bolt before anchors. It’s best to skip this bolt actually and go for the next one.

nice line. direct finish through the bulges is the way to go!

got a bit spooked by stories of tough unprotected start and decided to set up top rope to suss it out (by doing Entertainer all the way up to the roof and then traversing right onto the Round Up and to the bolts). Turned out the start is not too bad but would probably advise a bouldering mat. Classy moves and great gear all the way to the top.

wow, just wow. This is a Yosemite quality line. Went 2/3 up on my onsight attempt just above #3 pod (actually I'll leave #3 on the ground next time and will bring second #1), couldn't manage the pump and had to sit on gear. While the top third of the route is not particularly hard or insecure it is very sustained with limited opportunities to recover, and you really need a bit of juice left in your forearms for that sting in the tail final. Felt on the harder side of 23 for me mostly coz of endurance

first clean top rope. slowly getting there

nice face climbing with excellent gear and not so excellent rock. travers is the cherry on top. BEWARE of falling rocks. 2 fist size rocks flew pretty close when I was at the anchors

very nice. smallish totem got handy at the start

LOOSE CHOCKSTONE IN THE CHIMNEY. CAREFUL!

bottom section was a bit dirty and slippery. had a decent fall on my first piece of gear (green cam), did the rest clean. finger crack sections are cool but short, rest of the climb is not that remarkable. overall nice adventure including approach

Claiming 24 for my hand size! Tried a few times and felt super hard and painful. Really good though. I actually must admit that with proper taping it can go at 22 indeed. It was mostly pain that stopped me from pulling harder. Also the tree for a TR anchor is like 7m away from the edge so bring heaps of rope or tape

super good line, not too hard except for one section. have to do it again without using carrots

great climb! onsight got ruined by the last sequence just before the anchors where crack gets super thin

very good

climbing via thick mist made it very atmospheric, was so close to bailing as the rap chains in the middle of second pitch looked so inviting. kept going and really enjoyed it.