攀登 in World by Sam May having trad-cpr 或 ascent-date

Haha this was a blast. I really recommend bringing the cam. It is 100% broken legs if you do this as a "sport" route and blow the clip.

I saved this one for too long. I found the infamous runout not too bad, you can rest for as long as you want beforehand, and then it's over in a couple of layback moves. The top half though, that took a bit more out of me!

I was assured this was soft but I thought it was pretty full on. Needs a bit more cleaning before I'd call it classic (also the start is a bit crappy). Excellent though.

Kind of a mirror image of Flake Crack at Mt Piddington. Pretty cool. I'd use the downclimb descent next time, as pulling the rope after rapping off the bollard was hard work with lots of friction.

Wow, this actually does have some great face climbing moves haha. Enjoyed it. It was nice to have the #5 but crucial purple totem also would have been ok. Lowering off of the SSCC anchors unfortunately could damage the tree.

It actually climbs really well on toprope, definitely easier to appreciate the moves without the stress of leading.

Spoogey and strenuous. Went the wrong way,pumped out and backed off above the cam break.

Beautiful route. Got to the roof with no gear left that would fit - had to downclimb and lower off. Second try, backcleaned a red & green totem for the top and cruised it.

A really great pitch! Happy to get the flash, a few strong friends have dogged it/fallen off which made it a bit intimidating.

Gear beta: nuts as everyone says but also placed purple and green small camalots and a red C3.

This is a gnarly little route. Stonking onsight attempt by Bulti who actually managed to place lots of good gear all the way to the roof until he had to take.

Then I pulled the rope, clipped all of his stuff and...ran it out to the top, which was kind of dumb but damn it is tricky to protect up the top.

It's tricky! Chimney to reachy thin hands, good crack climbing.

Mikl has pointed out that I actually climbed this and not Shivering Jeremy in the past. Who needs grAId to upgrade a past onsight by five Ewbank grades?

"A great trad outing! Mandatory thin hands jamming on the first half, then brutal and scary through the roof above the ledge, then sandy and flaring up to two of the worst rusted metal things you'll ever see. Second couldn't follow, found a hex as booty, fun times!"

Excellent corner, compares well with the best corners at Piddo. Pretty clean but there's still a few plants in there.

Gear beta: nothing larger than a #2 camalot. Would have had good hex placements

Better than I remembered it! Maybe it's gotten cleaner? Really good anyway. #4 is nice for the crux at the top of the first corner, small gear for the second corner good too (blue totem).

Brilliant. Couldn't believe this face would go relatively safely all on gear. Excellent lead by Nick.

The beehive has been exterminated but the hole is still greasy and smelly from the petrol.

Beautiful line but fairly boring climbing. One #3 at the start, two #4 and fit the #5 right at the top of the corner but didn't really need it.

Exceptional holds and features.

SLAB. GASM.

Pitches 2, 3 & 4 with Neil and Bulti. 2nd pitch is awesome! 3rd is awful access rubbish. 4th is a great weird finale and harder than it looks.

Wow it turns out mikl can still put up a bold route when he feels like it!

Really really cool little wall, if only it was longer. Big moves, terrible feet, perfect crimps, groundfall potential and shaky gear at the crux. I want this headpoint.

Gear beta: 0.75 to 0.5 camalot for the crux break (preferably something almost in the middle, check Friend sizes?). 0.75 to 1 camalot for the top break. And maybe a bouldering pad!

Flash with inspection and a couple of pre-placed cams on abseil. Really good climbing.

Scared myself a little, as my Arapiles wire fiddling and route finding skills were not up to par. Kept looking for cams in breaks like a typical Blueys climber.

Trad cobwebs.

Tried this a few years ago and very happy to jump back on it and climb in good style. Classic Bjoey face climbing with good cams in horizontals at the start.

Gear beta: single rack of cams from small #0.3 C4 to #2 C4.

Good! Watch swing for second up the top.

The rock is really good.

A little loose in the top crack.

The first half is a great splitter. The second half is choss but actually quite fun.

Monster line and excursion (the belay at the end of the 2nd pitch is awesome!), but felt a little let down by the actual moves, which consist of "classic" offwidthing followed by literally banging your head against the wall.

Excellent hex placements, bring a #6 as everyone says, and take your helmet off for the second pitch, seriously.

Aww yeah. Surprisingly hard into the corner, then rock star climbing. One of the routes that made me an Arapiles believer.

The bird crap and scunge in the corner detracts though.

Climbing heaven! But, I did find the belay anchor tricky and decided to belay off my harness while braced. Bollard options are not great and small cams would have been helpful. The downclimb off the back is also pretty exposed.

Just great, fun rock climbing. Follows wide cracks, but elegant bridging and plentiful holds avoid any need to get dirty.

Maybe the best 18 of its style I've done in the Blueys, and a testpiece for a leader at the grade. So much interesting climbing, and for once the ledge rests make the climbing harder - so much time to stare at the commiting moves off of them!

Traversed in from the left on lead, then did it again seconding starting directy up the arete. Probably no-fall 21 if done direct.

Lived up to expectations. I want to do it again already.

Could baaarely reach the horizontal on tippy toes...up and down to get gear and dithering a lot before committing. Add several grades if you're short.

Good climb though, striking line. Rapped off after P1.

Bev led first pitch, which is made easy with technique and an eye out right (pro a bit weird though), and I led the second pitch which had great jams and cams and a bit of slabbing. Rapped off Harlequin chains at sunset.

I thought this was "Bolts Are Back", and was kind of concerned for a while there.

Thought we were on Skyline Minor and had a great little trad adventure above the clouds. I believe the last pitch I climbed was the "Deception Crack" variant. Dolerite was rougher and chossier than I expected. Abseil descent spectacular. Only climb I managed before getting sick.

Brilliant journey, though a bit ledgy. Probably rap off next time, the scramble to the top is scungy.

Bulti took a whipper and lowered off. Then I pulled the rope and flashed it on mostly his gear.

Amazing vertical crack! But the climbing is less interesting than eg Psychopath or Eternity. Exposes the flaws in your jamming technique for sure.

This time I managed to clean all of Ro's nuts without weighting the rope or crying. Was a close-run thing though, with a little deja vu!

Led the slab traverse.

Hell of a climb! Burlier than the Eternity for sure, but maybe not any more technically difficult. A #4 camalot would have been useful up the top.

The fingerlocks were secure and I slithered up the layback, but finally lost all energy trying to wrestle out of it. Would have loved to try it when on form.

So glad I saved this for the onsight! Great line and climbing. Intimidating reputation, but the protection is good, really.

(GEAR BETA) First half has nuts and a cam or two, then red and purple totem cams are sinker at the crux, and a #4 Friend for the topout.

The obvious line here. Accessible sea cliff consumer classic, sandy horror for the whole family.

Seconding James, 2nd pitch only. Desperate thrutchy crux. Good line, bolting is probably done but still needs a lot of cleaning in places to get more than a star. Will bring broom next time.

Really enjoyed this, an old style masterpiece. It's clear the bolts were placed on lead as well - real feeling of following Ewbank's footsteps.

This is apparently nails if you can't jam, but I can, so it was pretty straightforward. Good hexes.

I was a bit concerned about the quality of the route after diving in to the wall of vegetation above the hand crack on the first pitch. (Check out Cynics United pitch 1 as an alternative in future, it's apparently clean)

But pitch 2 was memorable and run-out on clean decent rock. I survived and Che got the 3rd pitch which is an exposed ripper up a monster natural line and has to be one of the best trad pitches in the mountains at the grade.

A great climber's climb.