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1 - 100 di 116 ascensioni.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Qualità Arrampicatore
Sab 11 Mag 2024 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schmittchen Schleicher - con Andreass Sportiva 28m
Roman
7- Schlemmerplatte - con Andreass Sportiva 28m
Roman
8 Unnamed 1 Sportiva Media
Kajabe
Dachte nach 7.Haken endet die Tour, geht aber bis unters Dach.

 
7- ~7 Schlemmerplatte Sportiva 28m Buona
Kajabe
8- Dura Sysiphos Sportiva 25m, 8 Classica
Kajabe
Mar 30 Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
8- Schlachtplatte — 2 tentativi Sportiva 11m
JP Fister
7- ~7 Schlemmerplatte Sportiva 28m
JP Fister
7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m
JP Fister
Dom 28 Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schlemmerplatte Sportiva 28m
Stephan H
7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m Molto buona
Stephan H
8 Dunkelschwarzer kochend heißer Kaffee Sportiva 25m Media
Stephan H
schwer zu sagen wo man unten klettern soll

 
8- Sysiphos Sportiva 25m, 8 Molto buona
Stephan H
Dom 31 Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7+ Dura Peitsche — 2 tentativi - con Tanja Sportiva 25m Molto buona
Hannes
Sab 30 Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
8 Dunkelschwarzer kochend heißer Kaffee - con Tanja Sportiva 25m Buona
Hannes
9- Weiter, immer weiter... Und du findest deinen Weg - con Tanja Sportiva 25m Buona
Hannes
The first moves after the first bolt are heinous

 
9- Open Air — 2 tentativi - con Tanja Sportiva 25m Molto buona
Hannes
Gio 28 Set 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
8- 8 Dunkelschwarzer kochend heißer Kaffee Sportiva 25m Pessima
Christoph Rauch
Really not a good line. The first few meters are good, then it draws you to the right. Hard if you force yourself to stay in the line of bolts, but there's always an easier variant, so you're almost climbing a harder version of "Schmittchen Schleicher". The awesome rock structures in the middle are a pain to navigate, but again, the holds of "Schmittchen" are within reach of the bolts. The last bolt sits directly in the line of least resistance of said route as well, which effectively changes its nature. This seems to be a common theme at this wall, what with "Black Beauty" and all … a shame.

 
Mer 27 Set 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
9- Open Air - con KP Sportiva 25m Molto buona
Christoph Rauch
Dropped off shortly before reaching a good hold. Apparently I went wrong after that anyway … most guidebooks describe 3 bolts in the upper wall, then an anchor. But actually, you're meant to continue over the last few bolts of "Rockpalast" to the very top.

 
9- Open Air - con KP Sportiva 25m Molto buona
Christoph Rauch
Great, sustained wall climbing in the middle. Only the line isn't absolutely clear … but that might be due to the traverse bolts of the original Meier route. Can't count this as a redpoint because I left out a (presumably) substantial part of the climb and it's an endurance piece.

 
8+ 9- Weiter, immer weiter... Und du findest deinen Weg - con KP Sportiva 25m Molto buona
Christoph Rauch
Great vertical wall climbing on small, sometimes tiny holds. Nice little runout section in the middle. The upper section is easier but still not obvious and demanding. 9- is slightly exaggerated given that Schwarze Magie right next to it is similar but probably harder (and has the longer runout).

 
7- Schmittchen Schleicher - con KP Sportiva 28m Molto buona
Christoph Rauch
Going directly to the last bolt is quite awesome, but requires a lot more balls than going left to the prominent knob, but the detour feels like off route due to the "coffee" route to the left which was added much later. :-/

 
Mer 16 Ago 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m Molto buona
Stephan H
8- Sysiphos Sportiva 25m, 8 Molto buona
Stephan H
Unten boulderig an kleinen crimps , weiter Zug aus dem kleinen Dächlein raus und oben mit weiten hakenabständen im slab mental anstrengend. Schöne Tour

 
Sab 24 Giu 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
9 Facile A.d.i.o.Z. Sportiva Classica
Andreass
Super Super!

 
Ven 19 Mag 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m Molto buona
Nik
8- Sysiphos Sportiva 25m, 8 Classica
Nik
Gio 18 Mag 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
9 Facile A.d.i.o.Z. Sportiva Molto buona
Andreass
Ausgecheckt, super super!

 
Mer 17 Mag 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
8- Facile Schlachtplatte Sportiva 11m Molto buona
Andreass
9- ~8+ Unplugged Sportiva Molto buona
Andreass
Selbst ohne das freche Auskneifen nach rechts eher Richtung 7b oder leichter. Super Tour direkt über die Haken!

 
Sab 29 Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
8+/9- ~9- Black Beauty Sportiva Classica
Andreass
9- ~8+ Unplugged Sportiva Molto buona
Andreass
nass

 
Dom 9 Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
9- Open Air — 2 tentativi - con Sfinn Sportiva 25m Molto buona
Elmo
Ven 9 Set 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
9 A.d.i.o.Z. Sportiva
robbit
2nd Go

 
7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m
robbit
cooler Name

 
9- Unplugged Sportiva
robbit
schöne Kletterei

Soft

 
8- Sisyphos Sportiva 25m, 8
robbit
did a hard but nice beta at the crux

Hard

 
Mar 9 Ago 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
9- 8+/9- Black Beauty Sportiva Classica
Andreass
Ausgecheckt, leistenknüppelei, schwer, super super

 
8 Dunkelschwarzer kochend heißer Kaffee Sportiva 25m Buona
Andreass
komplett daneben

 
7 7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m Buona
Andreass
Sab 6 Ago 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
6b 7- Schlemmerplatte Sportiva 28m Molto buona
Andreass
8- Sysiphos Sportiva 25m, 8 Mega Classica
Andreass
8- Sysiphos Sportiva 25m, 8 Mega Classica
Andreass
Dom 15 Mag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m Classica
Alma
Gio 12 Mag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
8- Schlachtplatte - con Tom Bösl Sportiva 11m Buona
cooky
7+ Peitsche Sportiva 25m Classica
cooky
3rd go

 
Gio 5 Mag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
8- Sysiphos - con Tom Bösl Sportiva 25m, 8 Molto buona
cooky
7+ Meier Gedenkweg, Direkter Ausstieg Sportiva 18m Molto buona
cooky
Dom 1 Mag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
6 Kaviar & Natursekt - con Tobias Sportiva Orrenda
Tiffi S
8- Sysiphos - con Tobias Sportiva 25m, 8 Molto buona
Tiffi S
Lun 18 Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
8- Schwarze Wand direkt Sportiva 28m
ushi
8- Sysiphos Sportiva 25m, 8
ushi
Dom 22 Ago 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m Buona
Tom Bösl
8- Schwarze Wand direkt Sportiva 28m
Tom Bösl
8- Sysiphos Sportiva 25m, 8
Tom Bösl
7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m Buona
Tom Bösl
8- Sysiphos Sportiva 25m, 8
Tom Bösl
Sab 26 Giu 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Ödiputz - con Torsten Schierz Sportiva 20m
Alma
Dom 23 Mag 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
9- Unplugged Sportiva Molto buona
Philipp Wellmann
Crimpy start

 
Sab 22 Mag 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schmittchen Schleicher - con Mr. Redpoint Sportiva 28m
Mr.Orange
8- Sysiphos - con Mr. Redpoint Sportiva 25m, 8
Mr.Orange
Ven 26 Mar 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schmittchen Schleicher - con David X Sportiva 28m Molto buona
Christoph Rauch
Felt harder than last time, but there was still quite some dust on the holds in addition to the chalk. Great slab.

 
6+ Schwarze Wand Originalvariante - con David X Sportiva 35m Buona
Christoph Rauch
The sling belay doesn't look entirely trustworthy any more, but you can use the tree behind it as a backup. The second pitch is quite short, though. The direct variants are the better choice for most people, although the traverse below the roof is quite nice.

 
Dom 7 Giu 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7 7+ Meier Gedenkweg, Direkter Ausstieg - con KP Sportiva 18m Molto buona
Christoph Rauch
Nice crack line, much easier if you know how to jam. Crux in the middle, where the crack is too shallow to jam, so you need to use the small holds in the wall. Felt more like 7, a good deal easier (and far less pumpy) than "Peitsche".

 
Mer 27 Mag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7+ Peitsche Sportiva 25m
Fabian
8- Sysiphos Sportiva 25m, 8
Fabian
7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m
Fabian
7 Kiss the Dawn Sportiva 11m
Fabian
6 Kaviar & Natursekt Sportiva
Fabian
Gio 4 Apr 2019 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m Molto buona
cooky
2nd go

 
7- Schlemmerplatte Sportiva 28m Buona
cooky
Sab 3 Nov 2018 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7+ Peitsche - con Christoph Rauch, Simone Sportiva 25m Classica
Tobias Auth
Very pretty and super badass at the same time! Had to give a lot for the flash!

Draws in, some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. "No, that's the best hold there. Yes, just do the move"

Standing high above the bolt in the first laybacl section feels airy!

 
8- Sysiphos - con Christoph Rauch, Simone Sportiva 25m, 8 Classica
Tobias Auth
Great! One of the best routes of the style I did so far. The rock feels a bit like sandstone here. The top part is a nice slab.

Some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. Draws in by myself.

 
6+ Schwarze Wand - con Christoph Rauch, Simone Sportiva 30m Buona
Tobias Auth
Followed Christoph Rauch 's draws which turned out to be a combi of Schwarze Wand and the top bit of Schlemmerplatte.

 
7- Schmittchen Schleicher - con Nadja Sportiva 28m Molto buona
Simon
Awesome line!

 
7- Schlemmerplatte - con Nadja Sportiva 28m Molto buona
Simon
I struggled pretty hard getting over the third bolt to fourth (and clipping it), but I enjoyed it after that! Harder than Schmittchen Schleicher.

 
6- 7- Ödiputz - con Nadja Sportiva 20m Buona
Simon
Hard for a #warmup route, but nice. Took me quite some time to figure out where the good holds were.

 
8- Schlachtplatte - con Tobias Auth Sportiva 11m Buona
Christoph Rauch
Tiny pockets and crimps; I guess I pulled a bit too hard at the start, but it worked.

 
8- Sysiphos - con Simone Sportiva 25m, 8 Molto buona
Christoph Rauch
#repeat Still very good; great double crux before and over the rooflet.

 
6+ Schwarze Wand - con Simone Sportiva 30m Buona
Christoph Rauch
#warmup I got careless in the final slab and slipped off a sloper … additionally, it turned out I had taken the wrong exit via "Schlemmerplatte".

 
6+ Schwarze Wand - con Tobias Auth Sportiva 30m Buona
Christoph Rauch
Last route of the day, to mend my previous mistakes. It's actually quite a delightful finish.

 
7+ Peitsche - con Simone Sportiva 25m Molto buona
Christoph Rauch
Unusual crack climbing; cool layback at the start, then another perfect layback from the ledge (careful when clipping the second bolt). A cruxy section where the crack becomes vertical sucks you dry, but once you hold the chockstone in your hands, it gets easier with a bit of jamming and a few sidepulls here and there. We extended the original line with the finish of "Rockpalast".

 
8+ Schwarze Magie - con Simone Sportiva 25m Molto buona
Christoph Rauch
Fantastic climbing in rough, black rock, on crimps and small pockets, and with loooong runouts. Hard between the third and fifth bolt. I was quite scared, but I was sure I could risk a fall. The new route to the right is quite disturbing, because one bolt is directly in the line of this one. I almost desperately clipped it instead of making one more move to be able to clip the correct bolt.

 
7+ Peitsche - con Lilly Sportiva 25m
Daniel
Pretty cool, but I failed in the vertical crack section. Approaching the second bolt after the ledge is a bit scary. It helps to already have a (long) quickdraw in.

 
7- Schmittchen Schleicher - con Lilly Sportiva 28m Molto buona
Daniel
6+ Schwarze Wand - con Lilly Sportiva 30m Buona
Daniel
Hard for the grade! I used the exit of Schlemmerplatte, but that shouldn't matter much.

 
7- Schlemmerplatte - con Lilly Sportiva 28m Buona
Daniel
Harder than Schmittchen Schleicher.

 
6- 7- Ödiputz - con Lilly Sportiva 20m Molto buona
Daniel
Weird climbing, but in a good way!

 
Sab 13 Ott 2018 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
9- Unplugged Sportiva Molto buona
Elmo
8+ Schwarze Magie Sportiva 25m Classica
Elmo
8- Sysiphos Sportiva 25m, 8
Elmo
6 Kaviar & Natursekt Sportiva
Elmo
Sab 6 Ott 2018 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
9- 8+/9- Black Beauty Sportiva
HaeMeS
Hard technical wall climb starts with a boulder problem on tiny crimps. Escapable afterwards. Harder than Unplugged, but not as nice. Felt like 7b+. The combination of Schwarze Magie into this route looks really good. Next time...

 
8 Dunkelschwarzer kochend heißer Kaffee Sportiva 25m
HaeMeS
Escapable start with nondescript climbing, but fun finale on slabby/blocky holds. Very well bolted, which is rare in the Frankenjura. Good job! Bit close to the neighbouring routes, but the bolting makes up for it ;-) .

 
9- Unplugged Sportiva
HaeMeS
Nice moves. Climbs better than it looks. Pondering about the grade - the climbing felt like 7b, not 7b+. But. That is because all the right holds were well chalked and ‘cause of the wandering route (left to right to left to right). For a direct line with more scooping out holds yourself 7b+ would prob’ be right. Black Beauty on the same wall felt physically more difficult to onsight.

 
Dom 29 Apr 2018 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schmittchen Schleicher - con Torsten Schierz Sportiva 28m
Alma
Sab 6 Mag 2017 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schlemmerplatte - con Bovist Sportiva 28m Buona
Christoph Rauch
Nice structures in the lower part, then a difficult section for two or three bolts and a slab with slopers in the end where you had to show off your footwork.

 
7- Schmittchen Schleicher - con Bovist Sportiva 28m Molto buona
Christoph Rauch
Long, good and homogenous route with crimps and sidepulls on almost vertical slab with one or two slightly more difficult passages.

 
7- Schmittchen Schleicher - con Christoph Rauch Sportiva 28m Molto buona
Bovist
It was my first 7- flash.

 
7- Schlemmerplatte - con Christoph Rauch Sportiva 28m Buona
Bovist
Ven 1 Lug 2016 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand
7- Schmittchen Schleicher Sportiva 28m
Jaroslav Karel
In topo (Röker 2011) is grade 6+/7- .

 

1 - 100 di 116 ascensioni.

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