1 - 100 di 116 ascensioni.
Grado | Via | Stile equipaggiamento | Qualità | Arrampicatore | |||
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Sab 11 Mag 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher - con Andreass | 28m | |||||
7- | ★ Schlemmerplatte - con Andreass | 28m | |||||
8 | Unnamed 1 | Media | |||||
Dachte nach 7.Haken endet die Tour, geht aber bis unters Dach.
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7- ~7 | ★ Schlemmerplatte | 28m | ★ Buona | ||||
8- Dura | ★★ Sysiphos | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Mar 30 Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
8- | ★ Schlachtplatte — 2 tentativi | 11m | |||||
7- ~7 | ★ Schlemmerplatte | 28m | |||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | |||||
Dom 28 Apr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schlemmerplatte | 28m | |||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
8 | ★ Dunkelschwarzer kochend heißer Kaffee | 25m | Media | ||||
schwer zu sagen wo man unten klettern soll
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8- | ★★ Sysiphos | 25m, 8 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Dom 31 Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7+ Dura | ★★ Peitsche — 2 tentativi - con Tanja | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Sab 30 Mar 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
8 | ★ Dunkelschwarzer kochend heißer Kaffee - con Tanja | 25m | ★ Buona | ||||
9- | ★★ Weiter, immer weiter... Und du findest deinen Weg - con Tanja | 25m | ★ Buona | ||||
The first moves after the first bolt are heinous
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9- | ★★ Open Air — 2 tentativi - con Tanja | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Gio 28 Set 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
8- 8 | ★ Dunkelschwarzer kochend heißer Kaffee | 25m | Pessima | ||||
Really not a good line. The first few meters are good, then it draws you to the right. Hard if you force yourself to stay in the line of bolts, but there's always an easier variant, so you're almost climbing a harder version of "Schmittchen Schleicher". The awesome rock structures in the middle are a pain to navigate, but again, the holds of "Schmittchen" are within reach of the bolts. The last bolt sits directly in the line of least resistance of said route as well, which effectively changes its nature. This seems to be a common theme at this wall, what with "Black Beauty" and all … a shame.
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Mer 27 Set 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Open Air - con KP | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Dropped off shortly before reaching a good hold. Apparently I went wrong after that anyway … most guidebooks describe 3 bolts in the upper wall, then an anchor. But actually, you're meant to continue over the last few bolts of "Rockpalast" to the very top.
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9- | ★★ Open Air - con KP | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Great, sustained wall climbing in the middle. Only the line isn't absolutely clear … but that might be due to the traverse bolts of the original Meier route. Can't count this as a redpoint because I left out a (presumably) substantial part of the climb and it's an endurance piece.
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8+ 9- | ★★ Weiter, immer weiter... Und du findest deinen Weg - con KP | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Great vertical wall climbing on small, sometimes tiny holds. Nice little runout section in the middle. The upper section is easier but still not obvious and demanding. 9- is slightly exaggerated given that Schwarze Magie right next to it is similar but probably harder (and has the longer runout).
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7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher - con KP | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Going directly to the last bolt is quite awesome, but requires a lot more balls than going left to the prominent knob, but the detour feels like off route due to the "coffee" route to the left which was added much later. :-/
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Mer 16 Ago 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos | 25m, 8 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Unten boulderig an kleinen crimps , weiter Zug aus dem kleinen Dächlein raus und oben mit weiten hakenabständen im slab mental anstrengend. Schöne Tour
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Sab 24 Giu 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
9 Facile | ★★★ A.d.i.o.Z. | ★★★ Classica | |||||
Super Super!
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Ven 19 Mag 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Gio 18 Mag 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
9 Facile | ★★★ A.d.i.o.Z. | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
Ausgecheckt, super super!
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Mer 17 Mag 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
8- Facile | ★ Schlachtplatte | 11m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
9- ~8+ | ★★ Unplugged | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
Selbst ohne das freche Auskneifen nach rechts eher Richtung 7b oder leichter. Super Tour direkt über die Haken!
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Sab 29 Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
8+/9- ~9- | ★★ Black Beauty | ★★★ Classica | |||||
9- ~8+ | ★★ Unplugged | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
nass
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Dom 9 Apr 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Open Air — 2 tentativi - con Sfinn | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Ven 9 Set 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
9 | ★★★ A.d.i.o.Z. | ||||||
2nd Go
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7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | |||||
cooler Name
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9- | ★★ Unplugged | ||||||
schöne Kletterei
Soft |
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8- | ★★ Sisyphos | 25m, 8 | |||||
did a hard but nice beta at the crux
Hard |
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Mar 9 Ago 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
9- 8+/9- | ★★ Black Beauty | ★★★ Classica | |||||
Ausgecheckt, leistenknüppelei, schwer, super super
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8 | ★ Dunkelschwarzer kochend heißer Kaffee | 25m | ★ Buona | ||||
komplett daneben
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7 7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | ★ Buona | ||||
Sab 6 Ago 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
6b 7- | ★ Schlemmerplatte | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classica | ||||
Dom 15 Mag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Gio 12 Mag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
8- | ★ Schlachtplatte - con Tom Bösl | 11m | ★ Buona | ||||
7+ | ★★ Peitsche | 25m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
3rd go
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Gio 5 Mag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos - con Tom Bösl | 25m, 8 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
7+ | ★ Meier Gedenkweg, Direkter Ausstieg | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Dom 1 Mag 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
6 | Kaviar & Natursekt - con Tobias | Orrenda | |||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos - con Tobias | 25m, 8 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Lun 18 Apr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
8- | ★ Schwarze Wand direkt | 28m | |||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos | 25m, 8 | |||||
Dom 22 Ago 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | ★ Buona | ||||
8- | ★ Schwarze Wand direkt | 28m | |||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos | 25m, 8 | |||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | ★ Buona | ||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos | 25m, 8 | |||||
Sab 26 Giu 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | Ödiputz - con Torsten Schierz | 20m | |||||
Dom 23 Mag 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Unplugged | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
Crimpy start
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Sab 22 Mag 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher - con Mr. Redpoint | 28m | |||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos - con Mr. Redpoint | 25m, 8 | |||||
Ven 26 Mar 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher - con David X | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Felt harder than last time, but there was still quite some dust on the holds in addition to the chalk. Great slab.
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6+ | ★ Schwarze Wand Originalvariante - con David X | 35m | ★ Buona | ||||
The sling belay doesn't look entirely trustworthy any more, but you can use the tree behind it as a backup. The second pitch is quite short, though. The direct variants are the better choice for most people, although the traverse below the roof is quite nice.
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Dom 7 Giu 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7 7+ | ★ Meier Gedenkweg, Direkter Ausstieg - con KP | 18m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Nice crack line, much easier if you know how to jam. Crux in the middle, where the crack is too shallow to jam, so you need to use the small holds in the wall. Felt more like 7, a good deal easier (and far less pumpy) than "Peitsche".
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Mer 27 Mag 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Peitsche | 25m | |||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos | 25m, 8 | |||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | |||||
7 | Kiss the Dawn | 11m | |||||
6 | Kaviar & Natursekt | ||||||
Gio 4 Apr 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
2nd go
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7- | ★ Schlemmerplatte | 28m | ★ Buona | ||||
Sab 3 Nov 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Peitsche - con Christoph Rauch, Simone | 25m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Very pretty and super badass at the same time! Had to give a lot for the flash!
Draws in, some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. "No, that's the best hold there. Yes, just do the move" Standing high above the bolt in the first laybacl section feels airy! |
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8- | ★★ Sysiphos - con Christoph Rauch, Simone | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classica | ||||
Great! One of the best routes of the style I did so far. The rock feels a bit like sandstone here. The top part is a nice slab.
Some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. Draws in by myself. |
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6+ | ★ Schwarze Wand - con Christoph Rauch, Simone | 30m | ★ Buona | ||||
Followed Christoph Rauch 's draws which turned out to be a combi of Schwarze Wand and the top bit of Schlemmerplatte.
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7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher - con Nadja | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Awesome line!
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7- | ★ Schlemmerplatte - con Nadja | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
I struggled pretty hard getting over the third bolt to fourth (and clipping it), but I enjoyed it after that! Harder than Schmittchen Schleicher.
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6- 7- | Ödiputz - con Nadja | 20m | ★ Buona | ||||
Hard for a #warmup route, but nice. Took me quite some time to figure out where the good holds were.
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8- | ★ Schlachtplatte - con Tobias Auth | 11m | ★ Buona | ||||
Tiny pockets and crimps; I guess I pulled a bit too hard at the start, but it worked.
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8- | ★★ Sysiphos - con Simone | 25m, 8 | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
#repeat Still very good; great double crux before and over the rooflet.
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6+ | ★ Schwarze Wand - con Simone | 30m | ★ Buona | ||||
#warmup I got careless in the final slab and slipped off a sloper … additionally, it turned out I had taken the wrong exit via "Schlemmerplatte".
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6+ | ★ Schwarze Wand - con Tobias Auth | 30m | ★ Buona | ||||
Last route of the day, to mend my previous mistakes. It's actually quite a delightful finish.
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7+ | ★★ Peitsche - con Simone | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Unusual crack climbing; cool layback at the start, then another perfect layback from the ledge (careful when clipping the second bolt). A cruxy section where the crack becomes vertical sucks you dry, but once you hold the chockstone in your hands, it gets easier with a bit of jamming and a few sidepulls here and there. We extended the original line with the finish of "Rockpalast".
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8+ | ★★ Schwarze Magie - con Simone | 25m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Fantastic climbing in rough, black rock, on crimps and small pockets, and with loooong runouts. Hard between the third and fifth bolt. I was quite scared, but I was sure I could risk a fall. The new route to the right is quite disturbing, because one bolt is directly in the line of this one. I almost desperately clipped it instead of making one more move to be able to clip the correct bolt.
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7+ | ★★ Peitsche - con Lilly | 25m | |||||
Pretty cool, but I failed in the vertical crack section. Approaching the second bolt after the ledge is a bit scary. It helps to already have a (long) quickdraw in.
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7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher - con Lilly | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
6+ | ★ Schwarze Wand - con Lilly | 30m | ★ Buona | ||||
Hard for the grade! I used the exit of Schlemmerplatte, but that shouldn't matter much.
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7- | ★ Schlemmerplatte - con Lilly | 28m | ★ Buona | ||||
Harder than Schmittchen Schleicher.
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6- 7- | Ödiputz - con Lilly | 20m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Weird climbing, but in a good way!
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Sab 13 Ott 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
9- | ★★ Unplugged | ★★ Molto buona | |||||
8+ | ★★ Schwarze Magie | 25m | ★★★ Classica | ||||
8- | ★★ Sysiphos | 25m, 8 | |||||
6 | Kaviar & Natursekt | ||||||
Sab 6 Ott 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
9- 8+/9- | ★★ Black Beauty | ||||||
Hard technical wall climb starts with a boulder problem on tiny crimps. Escapable afterwards. Harder than Unplugged, but not as nice. Felt like 7b+. The combination of Schwarze Magie into this route looks really good. Next time...
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8 | ★ Dunkelschwarzer kochend heißer Kaffee | 25m | |||||
Escapable start with nondescript climbing, but fun finale on slabby/blocky holds. Very well bolted, which is rare in the Frankenjura. Good job! Bit close to the neighbouring routes, but the bolting makes up for it ;-) .
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9- | ★★ Unplugged | ||||||
Nice moves. Climbs better than it looks. Pondering about the grade - the climbing felt like 7b, not 7b+. But. That is because all the right holds were well chalked and ‘cause of the wandering route (left to right to left to right). For a direct line with more scooping out holds yourself 7b+ would prob’ be right. Black Beauty on the same wall felt physically more difficult to onsight.
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Dom 29 Apr 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher - con Torsten Schierz | 28m | |||||
Sab 6 Mag 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schlemmerplatte - con Bovist | 28m | ★ Buona | ||||
Nice structures in the lower part, then a difficult section for two or three bolts and a slab with slopers in the end where you had to show off your footwork.
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7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher - con Bovist | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
Long, good and homogenous route with crimps and sidepulls on almost vertical slab with one or two slightly more difficult passages.
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7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher - con Christoph Rauch | 28m | ★★ Molto buona | ||||
It was my first 7- flash.
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7- | ★ Schlemmerplatte - con Christoph Rauch | 28m | ★ Buona | ||||
Ven 1 Lug 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | |||||||
7- | ★ Schmittchen Schleicher | 28m | |||||
In topo (Röker 2011) is grade 6+/7- .
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1 - 100 di 116 ascensioni.