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Nicechimney in the upper part; would have been easy to protect using my blue dragon cam, but of course I forgot to put it on my harness. Found a little fiddly nut halfway up, already wedged into the chimney a little awkwardly. Adventurous. No anchor!
Looks a bit shabby, dusty and full of cobwebs, but turns out to be a real treat. Greattechnical wall climbing with fluid moves and just enough holds. The ledge at the top almost invited me to jump off instead of clipping the anchor.
Cool structures, albeit some are a bit fragile. Big runout in the middle, a nut is essential (DMM wallnut size 7 fits perfectly). The top section feels quite exposed, fancy little rock tunnel for a hold just before the anchor.
Actually "Sonnwendpfeiler Talseite", but nobody climbs the original anymore, which traverses around the corner to "Alter Weg" (which should probably be around 6) before the nice hand/fistcrackdihedral. Nice, long, airy, a nut helps before the book case. Crux is either the crack (for crack novices) or the pocketed wall above the book, which is hard to read, but nice (and offers a hard move just before the anchor).
3rd go. Nice slab with small shallow pockets to a goodrest and then a boulder over the bulge. The big-dyno-beta seems to be the coolest and easist way for me...
Climbing's okay
