攀登 of Lhotse Flake

Best climbing is the last 4 pitches. The middle pitches are all runout / no gear and on thin slab.

Best climbing is the last 4 pitches.

Just did the first 6 pitches, then rapped off. Apparently the best climbing starts at pitch 7, but I just wasn't feeling the vibe. Will have to come back another day and finish it.

Climbing this in late November was a mistake. The entire route cops full sun, all day. We got thoroughly cooked and dehydrated.

Climbing was reasonably good, except pitch 3 and 4 which was low angle and scrubby but par for the course on S Beerwah.

30/40.

Pitches 3-6 are utter trash with no sensible protection and difficult route finding. You can easily go off track and get in to some dangerous territory with the possibility of pitch-long "falls" (painful rolls down the slab). I feel like 2 bolts per pitch on pitches 3-6 would reduce the route-finding issues and make this a much more reasonable climb.

It's a shame as the flake pitch (P7) has some nice trad climbing and 8 & 9 are safe and fun (if you have enough gear Matthew Robbins!).

Note to future self: Don't climb this again.

30/40

Done in 3 pitches by using lots of simul climbing. P1/2 me, P3/4/5/6 Tom, P7/8/9 me.

Honestly though, after having done this a second time, the middle 4 pitches make this a "don't bother". Too runout, too much greenery; it really needs some bolts in those middle pitches. In the meantime: Friends don't let friends climb Lhotse Flake.

Rather underwhelming in comparison to it’s neighbour The Martian. P7 had some cool moves on the flake feature and some fun slab between P3-6, but largely lots of average rambling with minimal protection.

Linked 1&2 Simuled 3, 4, 5 & 6 Linked 7 & 8 Climbed 9 and skipped 10 to simplifying rapping down.

There are currently no rings on the Hangars at the end of P9, but up and left through the bush ~7m is another DBB that can be used to diagonally rap back to the P8 anchors

Enjoyable ramble but really only 1-2 sections of great climbing. Possibly easier than 15 but it’s also sparse pro and bold for most of the route.

Cruisey day on the wall. Very easy, with gear or bolts where you need it. Didn’t place much though.

Nice adventure. I think it's definitely possible to link any of the pitches together with a 60m rope. We had an 80 but looked fine. There is climbing booty somewhere below pitch 4 in the form of a bolt plate. Watch out for the vicious bushes, one blinded me here and I had only one goodish eye left to climb the remaining pitches. Pitch 9 has an interesting crux, especially if you ignore/missread the trip notes and the line of bolts and go directly up over the dirty bulge. Exciting!

Great climb on some decent rock. Pitches 3/4 and 5/6 can easily be linked. The last pitch was a bit hard to find but was a nice finish to the day. Took 6.5hrs with minimal faffing about. Highly recommend!

Linked in from the RH corner. Didn't really plan to climb this, but once we got up onto the south face we just followed the DBBs to the top of pitch 9 before rapping back down.