攀登 of Archimedes' Principle having 攀爬攻略

Mega mega mega route. Done as two pitches with Richard Snow. Didnt both with last pitch.

Awesome

Even with Dave Hoyle gear in I couldn't manage the flash after getting flustered looking for better feet. Went to the top, pulled the rope, retied and sent it. Hot tip; you just need to keep moving through the tricky bits! Lots of good rests break up perfect sustained climbing on brilliant slanting rails/finger jugs. By far the most amazing piece of rock I've seen. This place is worth the hype. Will be back again for sure!

Dream send! Is this the best climb I've ever done? On JengA's gear (all placed on his onsight attempt, and left quite runout). Ticked 2nd shot after 2 big falls on the flash attempt. Consistantly thin (though with an obvious crux sequence), the sideways slopey crimps are draining on the arms, and make for tricky, slippery footwork. I fought tooth and nail for the tick. The juggy traverse to the arete caught me off-guard for the last super-runout techy move to gain the arete. Exhilerated!

Pitch 1 and 2.

Dream to climb. 2nd shot today, still to pumped out placing the gear on the 1st burn. An Absolute Mega route. 2nd pitch only.

What a route, 4th shots a charm, but part of me wanted to fall off, just so i could climb it again. Did get to do the first pitch 6 times, as i was using it too warm up for the main event. Did in one long pitch with doubles.

Not much to add to all the other comments here, brilliant climbing on bomber gear! (Climbed as one long pitch)

Took a mega whip at the crux on the onsight. 2nd clean to get gear off after mitch had a go.

One rest. Very pumped

Close but no cigar… Placed all the bomber gear on the first burn taking a couple of big falls off the crux, kept the run out to the anchor spicy. Sadly my second shot wasn't to be when my foot slipped post crux, next time gadget. With climbs this good on the best rock who can complain about having to do a few more laps..

Do yourself a favour and stop dreaming about this route just go out there and tie in for the adventure.

Totally amazing. Probably not the best wall to get on when you haven't climbed in 2 months. My feet were all over the place.

Pre-placed gear.

2nd shot, 4-o'clock slump probably contributed to this failure. Oh well, a project for next time.

P2: Tag teamed with Steve to lead the gear in. Best effort was 2 rests + a hang to experiment with the sequence to the arete.

Seconded it to clean the gear. None of the move are too hard but there is a lot of climbing. Still a bit beyond me.

Lead the gear into the top half this time. Came off right at the top of the section with bad feet on my lead attempt. Better to leave the rope in the P1 gear for P2 - lighter to pull up when clipping.

Onsight P1. Scary/Dangerous clipping first bolt, couldn't reach it. Found this pitch technically as difficult as P2. 3 shots at P2, dogged first lap, fell off crux 2nd and 3rd go taking some big whips. Need a rest day as its 7 days on. Last shot, 1 fall at crux and clean to top. Rock climbing doesn't get better than this, one of the best routes I have ever climbed.

So close to onsight, slipped with my fingers on jug. Pumpy!

Amazing climb! First two pitches lead in one long pitch from the ground. Tried for the send twice but unfortunately fell at the same point both times. Hard crux up there just took it out of me!

Managed to do the moves up through the crux with multiple rest and a few whipper but too tired to carry on to the top. I'll need to get used to the style and get my endurance up. Amazing route !

Superb climb. I wish I have endurance for it. Couldn't do the crux, due to my bad footwork.