线路 in Africa for selected grade

Friction Slab.

Easy beginner climb for teaching

Easy slab starting from on top of the boulders to the right of Vittoria's Secret. An excellent moderate pitch as an alternative to the hard 1st pitch of Vittoria's Secret to access the top dyke pitch of Vittoria's Secret.

Easy climb for beginners. Climb up to the big ledge then follow solping crack line to the top.

Fun climbing. Climb the face on various good grips up to the big ledge, then you move over to the left side to use the same two bolts from Wonder Woman. Not so clean route and not for top rope due the friction of the rope. Wall 3m left of Von Hinten. Up obvious weakness past 2 bolts. Then step left around edge past 3rd bolt. Single ring bolt belay / off. Major rope drag, poor rock, not recommended.

One of the original routes. Follow the right line up to the large left leaning crack going to the anchor. ADDED NEW BOLT AT THE BOTTOM AND NEW ANCHOR

Follow the sloping face on big ledges, step left and friction climb to the anchor. Not recommended to lower, better rappeling down.

Fun route. Follow up the face on many good holds. Good for beginners

This route follows an amazing Dolorite seam. Take friends 0.5-3, nuts and a helmet. Abseil from top.

Two large diagonal cracks form a feature on the krantz that look like the Eiffel Tower. This route climbs the left crack.

Clean and sustained climbing with possibly one grade 15 move. The crux is in the 2nd half of the route.

Start to the right of a 3m high block in an nice dihedral, Traverse right onto a ledge avoid nettles, some scary moves up a sloping dihedral to a small ledge, move left and up passing a small tree on the right.

Climb 2m to a small ledge, weasel your way (left or right) of a small chimney trending up and right follow you nose up to a good ledge with a tree, continue up on the left hand side of the tree. FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo, Delpoort Botma, Courtney Robinson, Mathias De Beenhouwer

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Start in the small recess. Climb the corner and move out to the arete when possible. Follow the crack line and then pull through some overhangs to the top. Easy but technical first 10 meters.

To the right of Surami. Starting in the small crack in the open book, the head left up the main crack

Same starting place as "Just for kicks". Move on right along a traverse

Route can be top roped, else 1bolt+Anchors

1. 40m (F2) Climb crack via tree to large ledge.

2. 8m (E3) Walk across to rock face. Climb to top of small rock pinnacle.

3. 25m (F2) Step across to main face and traverse left for 2m to below overanging crack. Pull-up into crack and ascend face to tree belay.

4. Traverse and walk right for about 30m past two large open books to corner.

5. 25m (F1) Climb corner and face to block stance.

6. 25m (F1) Climb diagonally right to top.

Pitch 1 has been climbed by unknown parties prior to FA.

Start 40m right of chimney. Scramble up to ledge.

1. 15m (D) Traverse left to foot of chimney.

2. 30m (E) Climb chimney to top of large chockstone.

3. 25m (F1) Traverse left around corner. Ascend recess to platform below chimney.

4. 25m (F2) Ascend chimney to chockstone

5. 25m (F2) Climb diagonally across right face towards tree. Traverse 5m below tree to right hand side of ledge. Mantleshelf up to ledge. Tree belay.

6. 30m (E3) Start in groove 2m left of tree and climb straight up to big overhangs. Traverse out right to corner stance.

7. 30m (D) Scramble via grass ledges to top.

From the start of Naked Orange, walk along the rock face to the right until a ledge is reached. Continue along the ledge (about 150m) to a 4m open book with a beacon at the start. This is about 50m to the left of C cad.

1. 25m (F1) Climb the open book, traverse 2m to the right and continue up a crack and a face to a ledge capped by overhangs.

2. 10m (F2) Climb the recess, traverse delicately 2m to the lef, then climb a smooth bulging face to a stance with a wedge belay.

3. 25m (F2) Move up to just below an overhang, make a tricky move to the left and continue traversing 13m on the same level to a stance in a recess.

4. 45m (E3) Climb out diagonally to the left to a little tree to the left of a steep face, then move to the right and up a recess to a big tree.

5. 30m (F1) Continue up to the left at first, then diagonally to the right onto a smooth ledge. Move to the right into a corner, do a delicate pull-up mantleshelf out to the right and move up to big ledge.

6. 45m (E3) Scramble diagonally to the left at first, to an obvious crack in a little buttress. The route here crosses Cycad. Climb up to a stance 5m below a tree.

7. 45m (E2) Climb past the tree and continue up just to the left of a cycad to a comfortable ledge with two trees. This stance is shared with Cycad.

8. 45m (E1) Continue up the face. Further scrambling leads to the top.

Start in a chimney abut 10m to the right of Vegetarian. This is 15m to the right of a very prominent chimney.

1. 40m (F1) Climb the chimney past a little tree to a little ledge. Continue up just right of the edge of some long slabs to a big block.

2. 20m (F2) Move to the left and climb up just left of the slabs to below a little overhang. Climb awkwardly up right onto a ledge. Step slightly left then with the aid of underhand grips and a layback gain a ledge up to the left. Move onto a big boulder then diagonally right to a tree on the face.

3. 40m (F1) Continue diagonally up right to a slight overhang and traverse right up to atree.

4. 45m (D) Traverse 45m to the right to a slight recess. This is about 5m to the right of a big tree.

5. 38m (F2) Climb the slight recess to a small overhang. Move up to the left then up a few meters until one can step to the right. Make a tricky move left then up 4m to a stance.

6. 45m (F2) Climb up 1m the traverse delicately left into a corner. Move delicately left to reach a thin vertical crack 3m. Ascend the crack (strenuous). Continue to top.

Approximately 200m to the right of the fence is a big brown patch of rock 40m up. The right-hand side of this has a big overhang and the left a recessed crack, with a tree about 8m up.

1. 30m (F1+) Start at lower rockband, below recess line. Climb short open book, moving out left and up to grassy face. scramble to foot of main rockband.

2. 15m (F1) Climb the crack up to a tree, then traverse to the left over a big block to a good tree belay and stance.

3. 40m (F1) Continue up to the left over blocks to a little overhang. Traverse 2m to the left, then climb a grassy face to a good ledge with a tree belay and stance.

4. 40m (F2) Move a bit to the left and climb up to a tree directly above the belay ledge. Traverse to the right, step down and across the main crack. Continue up to the right onto a block, then climb a weathered face above a little overhang. Surmount this and continue for 6m to stance above.

5. 43m (F1) Traverse 8m to the right to a smooth open book. Straddle and pull-up to the right. Continue diagonally up to the right to a good stance.

6. 30m (E2) Move up 3m then diagonally to the left to the top.

Note: This route partly resembles a climb called Spinnekop opneed in April 1950 by D R Bell and B I Harris. The first pitch starts 50m t ot the left of Carnivorous. The second antd third pitches are synonomous. Unfortunately it was not possible to trace the original route rom pitch four onwards.

The climb starts at the very lowest point of the rock face directly below a large open book high above.

1. 20m (F2+) Climb crack to big ledge (beaconed).

2. 15m (F1) Walk slightly diagonally right to tree belay beneath open book. Ascend open book to chockstone belay.

3. 30m (F2) Climb right-hand open book deviating left 10m up where crack becomes over-hanging. Return to open book and climb via tree to large ledge.

4. 35m (F2) Climb left-hand crack system and continue up open book to comportable stance and chock belay.

5. 15m (F2) Continue climbing open book to good stance and chock belay.

6. 22m (F2+) Climb left to hanging bush above to grassy ledge. Continue up crack to tree and chock belay.

7. 35m (F2) Climb open book to top.

Scramble to foot of lower main face.

1. 25m (F2) Start in centre of face. Ascend face to join diagonal recess running from right to left. Follow recess to big ledge.

2. 25m (F1) Climb left hand chimney system to narrow ledge below first bulge.

3. 15m (F2) Follow crack system. Surmount three successive bulges to grass ledge above. Traverse left around pinnacle and scramble up to ledge with blocks.

4. 20m (F1) Ascend left hand side of pinnacle to top.

The climb follows a line up the centre of a buttress to the left of a large grass ramp, which ends at the neck between the main krantz and the free-standing upper section of the buttress. Scramble up to grass ledge below buttress. Take the second crack from the right, which has a tree growing out of its lower section.

1. 40m (F2+) Climb crack for 30m and step left onto ledge below crack in open book.

2. 28m (F2) Climb crack for 20m to platform. Step down left 3m onto face. Tension traverse left fro 3m (peg in place) to stane around corner.

3. 15m (F2 A1) Climb bulging crack above (A1 - 2 moves) and tontinue to ledge.

4. 25m (F2+ A1) Climb crack to tree (2m above large ledge). Traverse 10m right into recess (topped by large overhang).

5. 15m (F2 A1) Climb recess to small stance and chock belay.

6. 20m (F2 A2) Climb via bulging face (A1) to below overhang. Traverse left and surmount overhang (A2) to ledge. Scramble right and up to top.

The climb is situated on the left side of Amphibian Tower.

1. 25m (F2) Climb crack system directly to the left of the Tower to large cubbyhole.

2. 25m (F2) Climb out left of cubbyhole and continue straight up to ledge. Traverse 2m right to bottom of crack and climb same to ledge and large block.

3. 20m (F1) Walk into corner and straddle up open book to ledge and then diagonally up left around Tower. Ascend a shallow corner to gain the main recess.

4. 25m (F2) Move up to neck. Start on the left corner of the final tower, traverse back right and climb corner and up right to a small awkward ledge from where it is possible to traverse right to virtually the front of the tower, then ascend to the top.

Start 20m left of an obvious chimney with round overhangs.

1. 35m (F2) Climb the corner of a crack for 15m then move diagonally right to a recess. Climb straight up the recess to easy ground. Tree belay.

2. 40m (E3) Climb straight up keeping left out of gully in easy rock.

3. 40m (E2) Continue up to a short chimney. Block belay at top.

4. 30m (F1) Traverse right to a small recess (2m high). Climb straight up for 5m then traverse right into a chimney stradling up into the back of the chimney. Belay (poor).

5. 20m (F1) Bridge and straddle up and out of the chimney and to a ledge.

6. 35m (F1) Traverse left over a fault to a wall and climb to a ledge. Traverse right along edge to a wall on the right side of the fault. Climb up to a platform and tree belay.

7. 20m (F1) Scramble into the back of a chimney and up through a hole to a ledge. Tree belay.

8. Scramble to top.

The line goes up a big open book about 100m to the left of the right-hand gully. It starts to the left of some impressive overhangs capping a huge sheer face. The climb commences up the very next open book to the right of a prominent rock buttress seen on the lower section of the climb.

1. 15m (F2) Climb open book to ledge and tree belay.

2. 20m (F1) Climb fault on the left up into chimney and chock belay.

3. 25m (E2) Climb deep left-hand chimney and traverse out right to ledge.

4. 40m (E1) Ascend recess to ledge and then walk diagonally right to face and climb same; walk right around corner to below huge open book.

5. 25m (F1) Straddle and surmount chockstone and then walk into back of recess and chimney up and out of recess via big leaning flake. To avoid overhanging recess with bush at its top, traverse out right and climb up to next ledge. Traverse back into crack and chockstone belay.

6. 25m (F2) Follow fault to large ledge below open book.

7. 20m (F2) Climb open book with some strenuous moves and mantleshelf awkwardly to ledge and stance.

8. 20m (F2) Continue up open book. Stance below final roof on ledge.

9. Walk along ledge to first corner and scramble to top.

The climb spirals up and around the buttress and starts 100m up the kloof.

1. 20m (D) Up broken grey face to ledge, slightly right of obvious open-book recess in the face above this ledge.

2. 30m (E2) Traverse right (out of kloof) along ledge.

3. 20m (E2) Continue traverse to bushed section of ledge.

4. 30m (F2) Scramble unroped about 30m along the bushed section of ledge onto the corner. Belay at this point. Climb up 6m immediately above the highest point of the ledge, traverse 18m right, then 6m up open book (using left hand side) to ledge and piton belay.

5. 33m (F2) 5m up open book immediately above belay point. Traverse right 23m. Towards end of traverse two steps each of 3m are made. (First 5m is F2, rest is D-E)

6. 18m (F2) Continue traverse over delicate section and make exposed "swing up" move to piton belay on ledge.

7. 12m (F2) Move down 3m into cubby-hole at foot of vertical crack which is then climbed for 9m to ledge at foot of the second section of the crack.

8. 18m (F2) 6m up crack into chimney of easier standard which is climbed for 12m to ledge.

9. 33m (D) Traverse 15m into corner of relatively large recess, the left hand side of which is climbed for 18m to belay point on ledge.

10. 30m (E2) Diagonally up out of the main recess onto large platform on left hand wall of recess.

11. 30m (C) Traverse right 18m, diagonally up to left 12m, 30m scramble then leads to a nek overlooking the kloof and almost immediately above the start of the climb.

12. 15m (E2) After walking 30m along grass ledge from the nex, traverse 3m round corner into grassy open book which is climbed to ledge at foot of vertical section.

13. 33m (F2) 6m up right-angled corner, traverse right 9m and then up 3m over grass. Traverse right 9m and up 6m also over grass.

14. 30m (E2) 5m up open book. Easy traverse right 25m to corner and tree belay (first on climb).

15. 30m (E1) Up broken ridge to small beacon. Unroped scrambling along the ridge for about 115m then leads to the summit beacon.

This route starts on the N.E. corner of the South Donjon, where a very obvious series of horizontal bedding plane ledges run into the rising foot of the cliff just around the corner.

1. 5m 10 Ascend the initial 5m. Walk to the left about 300m.

2. 30m 10 Climb down to the next obvious ledge, traverse left using underhand grips, and ascend to a stance at the foot of an obvious recess.

3. 33m 14 Ascend an easy section of chimney to a ledge. The Fislayjam section follows, up a slightly overhanging section of the recess. Continue up easier rock to a tree stance.

4. 33m 14 Continue up recess, up a face to left of crack, and left around small overhang. Continue over dirty section to block and piton stance on long ledge.

5. 7m 14 Ascend slight recess (to left of main recess) and do an awkward swing back into the main recess. Tree belay.

6. 33m 12 Climb easy chimney, then face followed by a more difficult face and layback crack to a large ledge with ample blocks. Scramble diagonally up right through bush to the top.

The obvious crack in the chimney on the left of Bone voyage. climb up to tree for 2nd placement, follow Crack and stay on righthand side of chimney until the top. Find obvious tree for top anchor.

Ascend the obvious, short open book to the right of the picnic site as you look at the crag. The route ends at a pair of glued in rings. Plenty of options for bomber trad placements along the way.

Immediately to the right of Spin-Arete, follow the line of bolts up the centre of the small face. Shares the fourth bolt with Damhan-Allaidh and ends at the top anchors of Spin-Arete.

On the right hand wall of the gulley. Climb up the roots on the left of the large tree, head directly up a few meters veering slightly right. Continue up to the stance.

3m right of the grey slab of 'One-eyed Jack' is a buttress.

1. 35m 13 Climb up a break 2m left of the edge of the buttress (at approximately 8m is the crux.) Straddle up and move diagonally right crossing a shallow recess. Continue across sloping rock. Move up and left around a corner to a recess then up easy ground to top.

Note: Sparsely protected.

Start 15m right of 'Opuntia' on a grey slab.

1. 23m 13 Climb the left-hand side of the slab to a ledge. Move left and climb up to the base of a short crack in a corner with a tree at the top.

2. 20m 13 Continue up the crack passing the tree and on to a system of cracks above. Continue to easy ground.

This climb ascends a recess / crack to the right of 'Penny's Error'.

1. 15m 13 Climb the recess to a ledge.

2. 15m 11 Climb non-de script rock to top of crag.

Starts about 9m to left of 'Cave Crag' and just on right of a small ridge below slightly overhanging rocks.

1. 34m 13 Move 5m up on very firm, smooth rock to a slight overhang. Traverse a short but difficult section 2 ½ m to the right to avoid the overhang then up 2m. Traverse to the left to a point immediately above the start of the climb then straight up for about 15m to an impassable zone of smooth rock. At this point traverse right for 5m to a clearly visible stance made by a boulder (slightly loose) sticking out of the main body of the krantz. A better and wider stance is found 3m further up.

2. 30m 9 From upper stance traverse a few meters left to a rock ridge which is followed to summit.

Starts in bush-covered scree opposite a 'Cabbage Tree' on the slope and about 20m to 30m to left of 'Carmen Crag'. Start at a flake of rock below a sloping face to left of a crack.

1. 22m 9 Move up 6m on left of crack, traverse right over top of crack to point above aloe. Traverse further right (4 – 6m) round a corner and up a few meters to a stance on a ledge which can hold four people.

2. 15m 11 Straight up recess to a large grassy ledge. Immediately above this ledge on right is a sheer smooth face.

3. 22m 13 Straight up to left of smooth face to a point below an overhanging block. Traverse right below the overhang then step down and across to right in a delicate movement leading to easier rock, round the overhang and back to left to stance above overhang.

4. 22m 7 Straight up to summit ridge.

Variation: 3 22m 8 Step down from grass ledge and traverse to right to edge of smooth face then up on right of smooth face to easier rock joining up with first route to right of overhang.

Commences some 5m left of the start of 'Hammer Route' at base of sloping slabs.

1. 20m 13 Climb easily up slabs to corner crack where wall steepens. Semi-layback up crack past aloe to belay on large dirty ledge.

2. 25m 13 Climb up in corner to overhang, then diagonally right following overhang. Traverse right 3m then up steep wall to small ledge. Cross aloes on right and climb easily to ledge. Chock belay low in horizontal crack.

3. 35m 9 Ascend easily up small arete then more easily still to top of krantz.

Start on the rib 2m left of the start of 'Rack Route', 4m to right of a prominent right-angled corner.

1. 15m 9 Climb the rib to a projecting narrow block to the right of the rib.

2. 15m 13 Climb above the block for 2m then move back onto the rib. Continue up on sparse small holds (crux) for 10m, until the angle eases on passing a group of aloes. Belay at a small tree 5m below a split overhang with a light brown stripe on its underside.

3. 30m 8 Climb the gully to the left of the overhang and on up grassy rock to the top.

At the top of the face is a large overhang with a white patch on the lip. On the left edge of the face below this overhang is a shallow recess or corner. This is the start of 'Rack Route'. 5m left is a grassy gully, sloping up left and ending 10m up at the base of an obtuse-angled corner. There is a sloping smooth slab on the right.

1. 15m 11 Traverse left 3m onto the slab which is stepped out on the left. Ascend a steep lichen covered recess for 15m to a stance on a small platform.

2. 15m 13 Diagonally right and up about 10m to grassy area. The crux is the first 5m. The stance is on a big ledge.

3. 15m 8 Up crack or gully above and slightly to the left.

The route starts to the right of 'Tweedledum' in a prominent but shallow cleft about 3m wide in the rock distinguished by a black streak running up its inside.

1. 12m 13 Vertically up the cleft below a slight overhang then at 4m up traverse left 3m. Work straight up the ridge for a further 5m to a ledge 60cm wide. Traverse right 5m to ledge. (This ledge is 6m to the right of the start of the climb.)

2. 9m 10 Straight up, to the left of a clump of aloes vertically above and to the right of a larger clump of aloes (5m x 2m). About 8m up is a small sloping ledge just above the larger clump of aloes, and 1 ½ m further up to the right is a flat-topped projecting rock providing the second stance.

3. 12m 8 Traverse right beneath an overhanging rock, then proceed up a ridge slightly inclined to the right and facing the ridge immediately above the overhang. The next belay position is on a sloping ledge immediately below a jagged series of overhangs interspersed with aloes.

4. 30m 8 Scramble through grass-tufted ledges.

A route parallel to 'Tweedledum' starting about 6m to the left thereof.

1. 12m 13 Starting at beacon 9m to right of smooth hopeless looking groove up, proceed straight up to small ledge.

2. 18m 10 Straight up to a further ledge approached from the right. This ledge has ample room for three to four people.

3. 15m 9 Leads to a large platform which also marks the finish of the parallel climb 'Tweedledum'.

Situated 4 - 5m left of 'Roman Candle'.

1. 20m 10 Climb up the easy rock spur until able to traverse right across a wall and up to first tree on a ledge.

2. 20m 13 (At this point it is easy to traverse right to the top of the first pitch of 'Roman Candle') Continue above the tree belay stance onto left wall of a small recess. Move up and left, out, the recess onto a wall. Climb up to a small cubby hole, and a tree.

3. 20m 11 Continue up obvious breaks in the rock to top.

Start on a buttress about 150m to the right of the left-hand descent gully. Just to the right of this buttress are two bushes about 3m apart. About 5m up is a crack in a corner.

1. 33m 13 Scramble about 5m to base of crack and climb crack to grassy platform. Above the platform is another crack in a V-shaped groove. Climb this for about 5m to a tree belay.

2. 25m 11 Climb the chimney above, exit left at the top, then move back right and up arete to the top.

Just to the east of the western descent gully is a compact grey face, split at half height by a ledge. The route goes up the center of the wall and then moves to the left edge to avoid the line of overhangs stretching across the face. Start at the left side of a small pillar approximately in the center of the face. Cairn.

1. 35m 13 Climb up on small holds for 3m until a series of layback holds enables a tree to be reached. Continue up 10m to the obvious tree on the ledge at half-height. Climb the wall behind the tree for about 4m until it is possible to traverse to another tree on the left edge (4m) overlooking the descent gully. Belay at the foot of a steep holdless groove.

2. 15m 10 Traverse below the holdless groove to a second groove, which is followed to the top.

Starts 5 to 10m to right of 'Rheebok Crag' but crosses latter on grass ledge and finishes to left thereof. The climb follows the line of a crack or recess which is the most important feature to left of 'Rheebok Crag'. The route adheres to this feature in an almost direct line.

Start below first cutback 150 - 200m to right of 'Upthrust' at a beacon below right hand of two recess.

1. 40m 11 Up 5m to base of recess. Traverse right onto buttress which is climbed for 9m. Then traverse left to gully which is followed to large ledge.

2. 40m 11 Traverse left 6m into base of deep recess. Climb up recess, past steep bulge, for 22m and then diagonally up right to ledge on arete.

3. 30m 13 Up arete bearing slightly right. Move right at 9m across steep face and continue up arete to large ledge. Scramble to top.

From the main descent gully at Eureka, traverse right along the faces (i.e. towards Hartebeestpoort). After 300m one crosses a fence and at the same time the cliff has changed from short greyish faces to long black ones topped by overhangs in most places. The fence is level with the end of these faces. The cliff now becomes more vegetated and has a few long cracks cleaving it height. As one continues the cliff loses height and its base becomes more broken. The climb starts at the base of the first large break in the face. About one third of the way up can be seen a deep open book recess leading to the top. On the right of the recess there is a long thin tower of rock terminating in a 6m face at the top. Scramble 15m (B - C) diagonally left to the base of a reddish open book which lies on the left of the large recess.

1. 34m 13 Ascend the rock at the open book for 9m and traverse diagonally right onto a licheny ramp and up. At the top of the ramp is an open book. Ascend this to a broad ledge, which is the start of the 'chimney/open book'.

2. 15m 10 Traverse right to the pinnacle of rock leaning against the face. Ascend this to its top. Caution should be exercised as the rock is not too firm.

3. 9m 13 Take off directly above the pinnacle onto the steep face. Move left to a crack and ascend it for 3m (6m 13). Continue easily to the top. Rock is poor on this pitch and should be tested. Note: The first pitch is very pleasant, but the following pitches are somewhat less satisfactory, owing to the quality of the rock. Protection is poor on the first pitch.

The climb lies between 'Black Man's Burden' and 'Agony View' .

1. 35m 13 Climb nose of small grey face and proceed up to small open book. Step up into crack and then out to left at once on thin footholds. Belay above.

2. 35m 13 Continue over mixed grass and rock to large ledge with much evidence of vulture occupation.

3. 35m 3 Walk left along ledge to small beacon.

4. 30m 13 Climb up 6m, traverse left 4m and then up on good holds to ledge. Up left of gully - mantle shelf. Continue to top.

Notes:

1. Geological beacon No.2 at top of climb.

2. Rock generally clean and steep with good holds.

Start 30m left of the descent gully west of 'Eureka Dome' closely follow the rock edge on leaving the descent gully to reach a small buttress with a wide diagonal crack on its right surmounted by a large tree.

1. 30m 13 Climb 4m on grey rock to a pile of loose blocks at the base of a 12m layback type crack slanting 20o right in brown rock. Climb the crack (crux) and scramble up scruffy grade 8 rock to a face capped by brown overhangs.

2. 12m 10 Move up 3m and traverse right 9m to easy rock. Walk off into gully.

Note: A short exercise close to the meet point. Two persons can complete the round trip in less than one hour.

The route takes the obvious chimney that runs the full height of the krantz and lies 50m downstream of RHEBOK GULLY.

1. 23m 13 Climb the chimney and continue up the face to the left of the recess. Move to the face on the right side of the recess and climb it until level with the overhang blocking the chimney above. Traverse left to the overhang and pull through to gain a good stance.

2. 20m 11 Continue up the chimney to the top.

Start where the perennial spring gushes out of the rock on the true right-hand side of the kloof.

1. 20m 11 Climb diagonally left up an obvious crack / fault, and finally straddle through a small overhang to gain a ledge.

2. 20m 10 Climb 5m up to a corner just right of the prominent rib 15m up. From the corner traverse left round the prominent rib to a ledge with a large tree.

3. 20m 13 Climb the face at the back of the ledge to the top, by keeping to the corner.

Situated 25m downstream of the spring (at the base of 'Moses') and therefore directly opposite NETTLE GULLY is an obvious downstream facing open book.

1. 25m 13 Climb the open book to a ledge and tree belay.

2. 25m 14 Climb the corner at the back of the ledge past two trees, to reach the base of an obvious corner which is followed to the summit.

The climb is situated on the right extremity of the 'Baby Face' buttress. Walk 10m right from the start of 'Bouncing Baby' around a bulge to an obvious recess.

1. 25m 13 Climb the corner/recess to a small overhang. Move left onto wall. Climb this to big ledge. Walk right for 3m to tree belay.

2. 25m 14 Move right for 5m past line of trees above. Climb centre of face to top. (The centre section of this face becomes rather thin halfway up and can be avoided by moving right or left.)

The climb goes up the downstream face of the buttress which lies 45m upstream of the small water pipe which runs down the krantz. 2,5m left of 'Finger Thing' is a tree with a crack behind it which leads to a large ledge.

1. 15m 11 Climb the crack behind the tree to a large ledge. Belay about 4m at the back of the ledge at some trees.

2. 35m 14 Move right onto a face, keeping more or less in the middle. All the ledges slope left into a deceptively deep chimney. Avoid climbing too far left. Zigzag up the face keeping more or less to the centre. 5m from the top traverse diagonally right to an arete on the right hand edge of the face. Continue to the top.

The climb starts where the water pipe running down from the top of the krantz reaches the floor, upstream of 'Cadbury Double Thick'. The climb follows the arête just left of this pipe.

1. 45m 14 Start in the cubby hole where the pipe comes down. Move out left onto arête . Follow this arête, keeping on the wall just to the left of it. Climb past two big flakes. Ascent steep crack on good holds to big ledge. The pipe crosses this ledge.

2. 15m 13 Move 2m right from the right end of this ledge. Ascend wall above to top.

A pleasing climb on clean rock.

The climb takes the steep gully mentioned in the description of the location of 'Golden Goose' (i.e. immediately underneath the second pitch of that route). A large tree marks the start of the route.

1. [13] 45m

   Climb the gully/chimney direct to the large triangular overhang at the top of the crag, passing several large chock stones at 35m.

2. [13] 10m

   From the belay, traverse off right, under the roof, using a large ledge, passing a small tree at the exit.