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条目 in Kachoong Area

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Kachoong Area

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area

17 Echo System

A good approach to 'The Golden Echo'.

Start: Start as for 'A Taste of Honey' Direct Start.

20 A Taste of Honey Direct Start

A great individual pitch or an approach to one of the other climbs.

21 Capilano

Up wall to first horizontal break and traverse spectacularly left to arete and up.

21 Dr. Paul and the Amazing Dancing Gnome

Start as for 'Capilano' and continue up wall with long reaches to major horizontal. Don't escape left but keep going up for a few more moves until it eases.

23 One Day Hero

A better direct.

Go straight up from start of Dr Paul.

19 Golden Echo Direct

The obvious wide line through the roofs above the ledge.

18 Golden Echo Variant

This was the original route but has moprhed into a variant.

18 Golden Echo

Interesting climbing through some exciting territory.

23 R Sounds Like

A scary direct start to Golden Echo. Looks worthless but in fact has a fascinating crux section.

19 Echo Chamber

Links the initial wall of Kachoong into the top of Golden Echo RHV via an exciting traverse left at the roof of Kachoong. Bring a #3 camalot for the traverse. For full value, start at the the steep crack/bulge that leads up the the belay ledge of Kachoong.

24 Silence is Golden

Line in between Sounds Like and Kachoong, start directly below where Kachoong is typically started, easiest to rap in from the bolts that get you to the photographer spot. Directly up the orange wall merging with Golden Echo at the left hand end of the Kachoong roof. The wall takes small medium cams, RP's and small wires. Make sure you build a good nest of gear about 4 meters before the roof, then make thin moves to the roof. Bigger gear required from the roof to the top, 0.5 to 3 Camalot.

21 Kachoong

Up on jugs to rest at roof, place bomber cams and then launch out into glory across the roof into the crux at the lip. Easy up headwall to welcome belay

Start: Start at the ledge below the big roof with the chalked flakes.

21 Kachoong Right Hand Variant

The original line through the roof took the little hanging corner on the right. This is worthwhile in its own right.

19 Kachoong Piker's Variant

Climb to the roof (crux) and then escape out right and up easy wall.

23 R Achoo

Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start.

Start: Start about 2m R of 'Kachoong'.

18 Ground Cummin

Start just left of Max and go up and slightly further left up overhanging wall. When angle eases, head up to final roof crack.

10 Max

Lovely short crack on the left side of the 'Hurts' Wall.

15 Consolation Prize

Slightly contrived face climbing between Max and 'Moritz'.

9 Moritz

Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good.

21 Santa Claus Conquers the Martians

Loads of steep traversing.

18 Mega

Start L of Hurts and climb up to join Hurts where it steps L.

18 Hurts

Good, pumpy wall.

Hurt Phase link

Start for Hurts and at the obvious big block traverse int In Phase and finish up that route

23 In Phase

Very good and very strenuous.

22 Cyclic Phase

Avoids the annoying start of Cyclic and makes it into a worthwhile route, unless you are a grumpy old guidebook editor who thinks it ruins the integrity of the existing line. Up In Phase to the finger lock then step right into main line of Cyclic.

20 Cyclic

Slight corner 4 metres right of 'In Phase' then traverse 3-4 metres left, over roof and up crack.

12 Monkey

Looks awful.

15 Low-rent Rendezvous

Not the best part of town.

Start: Takes clean convex wall about 30m right of 'Hurts' Wall.

14 Constance Little

Nice little wall climb. Faces the same way as 'Hurts', Max and 'Moritz' but just one level below them. Appears to be a repeat of A Taste of Bin Laden.

Start: From 'Hurts', go out and drop down through the gap that leads down to Golden Echo DS and Taste of Honey. As you emerge from this chimney there is a face on the right which is undercut on its left side. Start on the right edge of the undercut.

13 A Taste of Bin Laden

Start: The Right of the 'Taliban Airways' wall. Appears to be the same as Constance Little.

21 Mufti Dive

There are too many aretes in these route descriptions for the available cliff! Given the absence of any thin grey walls right of either arete, I am wondering if this is the thin grey wall left of the arete of CL's wall. It didn't have enough gear to inspire me to check out the grade. Or it may be squished in between Haiku Climbing was Super and CL.

Start: Right of the arete is a thin wall. ?????

18 Haiku

The original name was:

climbing was super

on long steep juggy arete

loose jug in my hand

Start: The steep left arete of the 'Taliban Airways' wall.

12 Taliban Airways

(Flying into 'New York', twice daily). A good way to get up to the start of 'Kachoong' warm.

Even when after climbing here with the first ascentionist, we're not sure where these routes are!

Underneath the start of 'Kachoong' is a wall which the track skirts. Unless this is also squished in with Constance Little, it appears to be the line on the next short wall heading directly to the belay for Kachoong. Felt a little more like 15 though.

10 ?????

Beneath Kachoong, R of ATOHDS. Up rib then corner to the belay for Kachoong.

Showing all 35 条目.

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