条目 in Pinnacle Face

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area

Nice line and rock but still a little shrubby. From the top of this it is a short scramble to the base of 'Mentor' so Kermit/Mentor/The Protege could provide an interesting outing.

Start: Start 30 m L of 'Wedding Tackle'.

From left gain faint groove which slants up left

Start at very toe of buttress, a few metres right of 'Wedding Tackle'. Climb to prow to finish direct.

Seam 1-2 metres right of 'Earthly Pleasures'.

Crack through bulge just right of Lusts Of The Flesh.

Start: Line R of 'Carnal Intent'.

Face between 'Identifying Bill Clinton' and Hillary's Dog

Start: Short line R of IBC.

Little wall sitting above Wedding Tackle buttress.

At left end of low cave, line leads to small roof. Up right to finishing groove.

Line 4 metres right of 'Rumour'. Pull on to white bloc; up and left

Aesthetic thin crack 3 metres right of 'Scuttlebutt'.

Steep crack 4 metres right of 'Furphy' and left of gully.

Maybe worthwhile as an approach for 'The Protege'.

The obvious chimney which appears to lead directly into The Protege when viewed from near Uncle Charlie. Approach past the left end of the Furphy Wall,

Climb the chimney to the roof. Step right and bridge up the continuation.

Climb the front of the clean rib about 12m left of Wedding Tackle.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area

In honour of the pioneers who first explored this territory 50 years ago. Named in honour of the golden anniversary, Aphrodite’s golden apples and The Slot’s nearby ‘orange bowl’. Takes the big wall centrally, to the left of Aphrodite and The Green Singer. Much better than appearances suggest,with an unusual variety of rock and climbing, and a robust top pitch that looks pretty daunting from the ground. Start as for The Green Singer.

1. 35m Heave ho as for The Green Singer’s start, then trend leftwards up the wall to the obvious steepening after about 25m. Up this steeper section about 3m left of the deep crack (The Green Singer takes the steep wall to the right of this crack). Belay up left.

2. 30m Up rib towards alcove backed by a smooth wall. Climb flake line on the right, then juggy rib past a deep hole in the rock. Veer left and bridge up prominent deep line. Numerous belays below prominent orange headwall, with fantastic views across to the Tiptoe pinnacle.

3. 30m Up to headwall which is tackled on the left side of the orange rock. Push on with determination, until the summit overhang can be climbed centrally, at the break.

Dedicated to John Shaw Neilson, Australia's finest lyric poet. From the top of this climb much of Neilson's country is spread out in clear view to the northwest. Fairly good climbing though the rock low on the second pitch is not the best. Worth a go if you're tired of Bard and all the Mount's other classics.

Start: Start L of 'Aphrodite' (itself not written up!).

1. 45m (14) Climb the seams straight up the middle of the smooth wall left of 'Aphrodite'. Belay on a good ledge level with the start of the second pitch.

2. 45m (12) Traverse into 'The Slot' and follow the corner line up the right wall, curving right past an orange overhang onto the front of the face. Continue up delightful smooth wall to belay about 3m below a triangular roof.

3. 20m (12) Up vague prow just right of the triangular roof.

4. 15m (12) Up a few moves then pull through overhang on front right of the summit block.

A slightly bold first pitch and an exhilirating finish.

Start: The face just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress is marked by the deep chasm of 'The Slot'. Start directly below this chasm.

1. 40m (9) Go up to bushes at 5 metres, step left and climb face just left of the gulch, delicate at first, until it eases to a good ledge.

2. 30m (5) Easy ground to below the orange overhangs.

3. 25m (10) Up to and under the overhang and traverse out left. Climb the overhang on large holds in an exposed position.

An old-fashioned route. Start below the chasm just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle, as for 'Aphrodite'.

1. 72m (11) A tricky wall leads to the base of the chimney. Follow the chimney pas a narrow section and then on up vegetation-filled gully to belay in the"orange bowl"

2. 28m (11) Fall across gap and climb crack in right wall past the chockstones to the top. An alternative is to carry on directly up the line, which is very narrow to start with.

Contrived. Start a bit right of 'The Slot' at foot of big chimney-corner formed by the main wall and the Tiptoe pinnacle. Up chimney to eventually join 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Follow 'Tiptoe Corner' to crack left of Next Of Kin. Pull over bulge, heading left to break. Above small roof, climb straight up face.

Follow the chimney of 'Tiptoe Corner' for 15 metres and step onto the face at the first of two diagonal cracks. Up right to below flakes, then straight up these, exiting right over roof.

Follow 'Moonlighting' for 10 metres, traverse easily left to below smooth wall. Up wall via break and bulge to pod. Up pod and around roof.

From start of 'Tiptoe Ridge', take left-leaning grey diagonal then step right to short right-facing orange corner on right arete of south face. There are some loose blocks.

A squeeze test at the top of Tiptoe Ridge. Lay down and shuffle through the horizontal crack.

An alpine-flavoured adventure that surely ranks as one of the finest routes of its grade in the world

Start: Left of the prominent ridge is a large terrace. Approach from below and to the left.

1. 43m 3 step onto ridge and up

2. 27m 5 up and over pinnacle

3. 20m 4 up wall to big ledge on right

4. 30m 5 head on up

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area

Up slab to roof and through.

Start: Starts where slab is steepest just right of No Charlie.

Left edge of left wall of alcove.

Middle of left wall into shallow corner. Exit left

Bridge up groove at back of alcove, swing left onto large flake.

"You can lead them to free beer but you can't make them climb." Greg might have more takers if the free beer was kept until after the climbing.

Little corner 1 metre right of 'Free Beer' to roof then up slab.

Obvious left diagonal to thin crack

Start at 'Tiptoe Ridge' DS, but take short, wide right-leading diagonal through bulge.

The short orange wall just left of Bossy Mothers eases quickly (stay R of the loose juggy line). Easier climbing then continues up the pleasant slabby grey wall above. At the top move over R to the anchors above Bossy Mothers.

Reachy start to gain crack which maintains its interest.

Start left of arch and move up and right to finish up grey streak to 'Bossy Mothers' anchor.

Thin rightward leading seam right of Just Out Of Habit.

Scramble up right of Cruella De Ville and follow line just right of it. Move left uner overhang to easier finishing crack.

Climb middle of very small south-facing wall of subsidiary pinnacle behind dead tree.

Crack, curving left to exit on orange, north-facing wall.

Wall 1 metre right of Pearl Jam, right, up back left above Pearl Jam.

"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinary trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.

1. 30m (5) Up easy slab to rock rib just right of corner. Belay in gap between main face and small pinnacle.

2. 10m (1) Wander across left to a stance closer to the corner where the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress meets the main face.

3. 50m (6) 'Excellent' climbing up the corner to the notch behind the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle.

4. 50m (4) Finish up the last 2 pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

The first recorded route at 'Arapiles'.

The original route wandered around a lot more than the route as described here. It is fairly safe to say that all of the rock between 'Siren' and 'Ordinary Trees' has been climbed.

Start: Start on the right side of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree.

2. 40m (2) Up the easy face left of the scrubby gully to large ledge.

3. 35m (5) Directly up face until about 8 metres below the Eagle's Eyrie (prominent cave). Traverse 8m metres left, passing under roof and up to ledge level with the Eagle's Eyrie. Climbing direct to the Eagle's Eyrie and then traversing left is grade 10

4. 35m (4) Step left and up chimney right of 'Tiptoe Ridge', joining that route near the top.

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pinnacle Face / Tip Toe Ridge Area

Starts at Siren’s first belay.

1. 40m (12). Starts directly behind the dead Cypress Pine. Climb the middle of the face. (crux). At first ledge, set up belay.

2. 40m (12) Directly up, to right hand end of the Eagles Eyrie. Taking the small left facing corner and then up juggy wall to top.

A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner.

Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.

1. 25m (4) Up the wall, passing the overhang on the left, then up to the dead tree, as for the first pitch of Introductory Route.

2. 35m (8) Move right and up a little crack then follow prominent right-leading diagonal to a spectacular ledge on the arete. Note that the climb originally climbed the latter part of this pitch out right near the arete, now included in the second pitch of Xena.

3. 35m (8) A mildly terrifying step across the void leads to easy climbing diagonally right. A few tricky moves then lead to a comfortable ledge below the big corner, with DRB.

4. 25m (6) Up corner to next ledge or carry on up the next pitch.

5. 25m (9) Up corner which finishes with a few rounded layback moves, then continue up little wall and belay on terrace.

From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11.

Definitely the best way to climb Siren, especially as it only has one move at grade 12 and creates one of the best easy corner pitches anywhere!

1. 25m (4) As for Siren

2. 35m (8) As for Siren

3. 35m (8) As for Siren

4. 50m (12) Brilliant corner as for Siren but instead of stopping at the belay at 25m, continue up and step right through the rooflet and on to more glorious corner above. Belay on major ledge. From here either walk of left or...

5. 10m (11) Walk left along the ledge to the small right-facing corner and finish up this for full value.

The left wall of the 'Siren' corner is very obvious but is not quite as good as it looks. The old bolts need replacing.

Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.

1. 35m (8) Up to and over crack and up left line in wall to juggy ground. Continue up steep wall just left of arete to incut ledge looking out over 'Left Watchtower Face'.

2. 22m (9) Climb up just left of arete to big ledge (Siren's second belay) and continue to next ledge on left a couple of metres further up.

3. 23m (5) Easy ground to ledge below headwall.

4. 30m (10) Step right, then steeply up on good holds. Up, tending slightly left.

A good finishing pitch. Often done as a finish to 'Creon' but can be easily reached via the ledge system the crosses the face at 60 metres.

Follows the chimney-corner bounding the left edge of the left Watchtower face after starting up Hot Flap's first pitch, then the chimney-gully forming the left side of the Siren buttress.