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Deep South

Strangely enough this is the western-most outcrop at 'Arapiles' not the most southerly. It consists of two small collections of buttresses west of Campbell's Kingdom with a reasonably high percentage of worthwhile climbs.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Campbells Kingdom Carpark

16 Lazarus Arisen

From behind the pedestal just left of the gully in the recess, go up the line in centre of face to a small roof(and, presumably, over it)

11 Cotton Balls

Start just right of the gully and climb narrow east face of buttress.

20 R Shackled

Protection is hard to arrange.

16 South Carolina

A distinctive wide crack with an overhang 2 metres left of chimney.

10 Chattanooga Choo Choo

Surprisingly pleasant.

Start: The chimney splitting the left outcrop just left of 'Alabama'.

21 Alabama

Start up diagonal seam leading right from base of chimney (CCC) then go straight up through little roof. Above roof, step left from ledge.

21 Southern Fried

Seam 1 metre right of 'Alabama'.

13 Tennessee Birdwalk

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

24 Rape and Carnage

Very hard start tnen flake on front wall. Finish right over overhang.

22 Dixie Chicken

Start up corroded pillar, 2 metres right of Rape And Carnage, then strenuous diagonal .

21 Kentucky Frazzled

Left diagonal, 2 metres right of 'Dixie Chicken'.

13 Jambalaya

Up to pillar at about half height, pull up and move half

metre right and straight up.

Start: Start as for 'Kentucky Frazzled'.

23 Sleight of Hand

A little gem. Right-leading diagonal until it ends, then up.

Start: This is on the highest main buttress which is a little recessed.

21 Moaning Sirens

Follow left corner avoiding urge to bridge off opposing wall, then up headwall tending left.

Start: Start: About four metres downhill from 'Sleight of Hand'.

20 Kaitland

The grades of the individual pitches are not known, though first one looks harder, so both are given 20.

On first glance it hardly seems worth splitting this into two pitches but it makes sense.

Start: Start 4 metres left of 'Big Bungies'.

  1. 12m (20) The crack in the arete to a ledge.

  2. 5m (20) The jagged crack to the top. This lengthy pitch can be avoided by traversing off right.

19 Big Bungies

Orange face on front of buttress closest to road. Wall then short diagonal crack. Awkward near top then go left.

14 Marius Christmas

Follow crack to ledge. Middle of upper wall includes a festive move R to link the seams.

Start: Starts around R of 'Big Bungies', at a V-crack.

21 Bye for Now

Crack on buttress around the corner and up right of 'Big Bungies'.

16 Oldies But Boldies

The line at the left end of the wavy overhang.

11 Doodad

The prominent corner and roof several metres right of 'Oldies But Boldies', exiting right at roof.

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