★★★ Sarlacc 26

Spectacular overhung flake and corner straight up the guts of the wall. This is a rap in, climb out sport multi. Best approach is to take two 60m ropes. Fix one to the top anchor and rap down to ledge above pitch 1 (you will need to clip into several bolts on the way down to not get stranded in space). Then double rope rap from there to the ground and pull your rope. A 80m fixed rope MIGHT make it to the ground. Brings 18 quickdraws and prussics.

1. 17m (18) Grey slab starting at orange corner on right side. 6 bolts. Comfy belay on big ledge.

2. 28m (25) Technical face up a series of subtle flakes with mostly poor feet. Semi-hanging belay at tiny ledge. 11 bolts

3. 35m (26) Bouldery face straight off the belay, crux through rooflet then long endurancy flake/corner in a wild position. Belay on comfy ledge or link into next pitch. 14ish bolts.

4. 10m (17) Exit pitch up ironstone jugs.

If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision. Avoid damaging any vegetation in this area.