攀登 in Bald Head as Hang dog

Sustained and engaging climbing in fantastic positions up a brilliant wall with awe inspiring views of the Grose Valley.

The first crux felt more like 22

Awesome!

Sandbagged as hell. Not a 24. Thought I was going to have to bail even with pulling on every single quickdraw

French free on the start of the second pitch as I wasn't keen on hanging in space with rope stretch. Quite a tough route. I know a few 22s that are much easier than this one. Hard to bail off due to the height and the fixed hangars. Would recommend double ropes to avoid rope drag on pitch 1

Epic pump and exposure. A bit sandy however will come good with traffic.

Long route, and stiff for the grade. Wouldn't have been surprised if it was a 23. Early crux went OK but the combination of the long headwall, minimal good rests and the route finding needed (due to lack of chalk showing the way) meant that I got myself into an unrecoverable position and couldn't retreat for a different beta. Excellent position on a great headwall

Warmup

One hang on each

Tired hang doggy boi. But we lead each pitch clean.

Exposure got in my head a little after rapping too far past the bolts and improvising a prussik setup - but all in all nice climbing, crux just before the anchors. Take sunscreen!

I found the sequences and clipping challenging along with the position mentally demanding. What a beautiful location!

Only time for 2 laps. The first lap was a debacle trying to piece together/clean/chalk the route, and I didn't really practice the hard bits. The 2nd lap I had a pretty mega effort, falling off the last part of the final "hard" crux, then going from below this sequence to the top. I made so many mistakes on this lap that I'm just happy I managed to come this close while scrapping badly. I think I have reasonable odds to send on a 3rd lap, hopefully I'll get back for it.

All in all, the climbing is great, technical, interestingly wandery, but the rock is a mixed bag (snappy and dirty at times, other times great). This also featured the worst of all the headwalls on this wall (and they're all pretty bad). A very worthy long pitch, though.

Double nails

Run out, thin and bloody bumpy. Fell after a hold broke off and went for a nice airy whip.

I though the 22 was amazing. This is the funnest 23 I have ever climbed. Will be back for the tick! 1 sit.

Belaying on the hanging ledge as choss and rock rained down on me, whistling past my ears singing the sweet sound of head injury (wear a helmet). I watched the grade go from a hard 22 to 25 as more holds peeled off. Seconded to get out and then rain came!

Pumped out towards the top. Nice crimpy face climbing.

In the rain

Broke a footer down low, then bailed to the 26's last two bolts in the rain. Awesome huge moves on good crimps for the 3/4s of the route I climbed.

Stuck the "dyno" on the onsight... but to the only part of the rail that wasn't a rail . More great linkage to the top section before getting confused by the bolt location (I tried to climb the overhaning face super-direct, but you actually go out to the arête... I should've read the route description). An awesome steep line on firey orange rock that merges naturally into funky arête climbing. Marred only by the first few metres, and the bolts being several metres in from the arête.

Lovely climb but loses a star for spitting me off just before the anchors. Good moves the whole way.

19th December 2010. Broke a hold about 3 or 4 bolts up and took a fall. Then clean to the top. Bring a moderate rack and some long slings... You'll need it at the top. Amazing exposure.