攀登 in Tiger Stripe Wall

Could have onsighted but wasn’t keen to rap in with my eyes closed

Awesome!

Sandbagged as hell. Not a 24. Thought I was going to have to bail even with pulling on every single quickdraw

Epic pump and exposure. A bit sandy however will come good with traffic.

Long route, and stiff for the grade. Wouldn't have been surprised if it was a 23. Early crux went OK but the combination of the long headwall, minimal good rests and the route finding needed (due to lack of chalk showing the way) meant that I got myself into an unrecoverable position and couldn't retreat for a different beta. Excellent position on a great headwall

Rock quality not great

Amazing location, but suffered from a bit of run off on the top half.

Felt like a game of chance every time you went for the next hold - will it be a good edge, or will it be a dirty sandpile? Who knows? Very engaging

Got bloody pumped on this one. Not used to the level of exposure you get on this.

The fine layer of dust on many of the holds, and the complete lack of chalk makes for some tougher route finding. Not convinced this was 3 stars

Exposure got in my head a little after rapping too far past the bolts and improvising a prussik setup - but all in all nice climbing, crux just before the anchors. Take sunscreen!

I found the sequences and clipping challenging along with the position mentally demanding. What a beautiful location!

Gnarly to be climbing 50m thin techo face at this grade (with oodles of exposure) on trad and the odd bash-in carrot from the dark ages. I took a monster whip onto a sad-looking bashie on my first lap today (after skipping a bolt through the crux), which was rather heart-stopping. Complex climbing with a very hard crux, surrounded by awesome 24ish feature-climbing on gear.

Second Clean. Seconding Neilio at EOD to exit the crag. Really quality climbing at the grade, probably the 2nd best route on the wall, all things considered? Hard start, then just sustained and interesting climbing on good holds to the tippy top.

About time! Had a mega 1st shot and then broke off my key crux footer on link! Got confused with my new (post-breakage) beta on the 2nd shot and punted. Then found my inner mongrel and vitriol'd my way up the route for the Send. Psyched to get it done

Only time for 2 laps. The first lap was a debacle trying to piece together/clean/chalk the route, and I didn't really practice the hard bits. The 2nd lap I had a pretty mega effort, falling off the last part of the final "hard" crux, then going from below this sequence to the top. I made so many mistakes on this lap that I'm just happy I managed to come this close while scrapping badly. I think I have reasonable odds to send on a 3rd lap, hopefully I'll get back for it.

All in all, the climbing is great, technical, interestingly wandery, but the rock is a mixed bag (snappy and dirty at times, other times great). This also featured the worst of all the headwalls on this wall (and they're all pretty bad). A very worthy long pitch, though.

2nd clean at EOD to exit the crag. A very hard start leads to easier (but still sustained) climbing with a few sneaky thin moves thrown in up top. Hard at the grade, as with everything else at this crag. Not as good as the other 24 as the rock quality isn't as high, and the climbing is more in the "painfully thin" rather than "technically hard" vein.

2nd Clean at EOD to exit the crag. The route of the day for sure! Very sustained, unerringly thin, and probably the best rock I've seen on this wall. Probably entry-level 25 due to its relentlessness. Very complex moves. Really, the only negative is that the last 6m or so is not great rock.

2nd shot. Very thin, with some proper spicy runouts. Had a really good First shot (draws on, no beta) until I broke a footer off in the final crux, while doing the sequence correct . Went down next lap, but not without some fiery remarks. Stacked hard sequences with no rest. Maybe 25/26? Hard at the grade at least. Rock is a mixed bag.

A rather stacked middle section of thin moves! Maybe hard at the grade (24ish?). A long pitch with continuous climbing and no camp-out stances. Obviously untrafficked (with all the usual caveats in such circumstances) but totally worthwhile. Technical!

Second clean. At the grade, this is a pretty outrageous position and climbing up cool features. Rock isn't perfect, and access is a bit tricky now that the rap-tree has burned down, but for an easy route its worthy. Scoopy.

FFA. forgot to log this! so much exposure. yourmissing out if you dont climb this!

Blooody nails!

Double nails

Belaying on the hanging ledge as choss and rock rained down on me, whistling past my ears singing the sweet sound of head injury (wear a helmet). I watched the grade go from a hard 22 to 25 as more holds peeled off. Seconded to get out and then rain came!

Very nice climb, exciting finish. No hesitation move!

Top rope sesh, atmosphere was amazing. 3 degree temps with warm rock from the all day sun. Continuous technical climbing with rests becoming further apart the higher you get. Zero chalk and crafty holds.

Sick route get on it!

Backlogging. TRS Clean. Date is a guess... Just before my trip to Yosemite, but a week or two after I was here for Advanced Air and Dimer. Probably the worst route on this wall. Seemed kinda mossy and dirty at the time. But take this opinion with a grain of salt.

Almost, but not quite classic. Bloody long and very sustained at the grade. Like doing the crux part of the gr21 top pitch of mirrorball over and over again for 52m. Some of the harder moves might even push this into gr23 territory. Tricky to find the holds on the onsight due to literally no traffic since the FA (and moss on some crux holds), but probably worth more laps due to the beautiful slice of uninterrupted vericality that is Bald Head. Some fragile rock, but no real breakage. Windy!

The climb at Balls head I most aspire to ascend