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Dalpura Head

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总结

Multi-pitch wall climbing with modern bolts and the amazing summit of the Lost Pillar.

描述

This is a major section of cliff, up to 150m high, that is rarely visited. This is mostly because there isn't a good track to the top of the cliff, be prepared for some navigational challenges. The star attraction of this cliff is the Lost Pillar, a free standing 80m high slender pillar with several trad and sport routes up each side. Although this is a fun summit there are many better quality routes on the walls around it that involve rapping in and climbing out. Much of this cliff faces south west so get shade until quite late in the day. For most of these routes you will need at minimum double ropes, or even better a 100m static rope as well as a lead rope.

准入问题 取自Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

前往

Approach GPS Tracklog.

Park at large pull out 2.2km west from Mt Wilson turn-off on Bells Line of Road. Cross road to south side and locate well worn foot path. Follow this for 15 minutes (it turns into an old road) until it disappears. Follow yellow coloured tape markers through bush and down ridge to small col. Drop down right side (keep following the tape markers!) and follow cliff edge into gully and back up the other side. Continue along semi-open ground following tape markers for another 15 minutes to arrive at cliff top - see area description for the two separate rap access points. It is highly recommended to take a GPS (Carpark -33.5353, 150.3195 Halfway -33.5436, 150.3140 Lost Pillar -33.5489, 150.3099)

行为准则 取自Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

历史

历史时间线表

There was a lone piton found on pitch 3 of End of Days, presumably from a previous recce of the wall. Oddly the first recorded route appears to have only been established in 1999, with Mikl and Steve Moon's Crankenstien arete (bizarrely featured as a photo on the back cover of an early sport climbing guide to the Blue Mountains, but not included in the guidebook!). Mike returned a few years later with future wife in tow and did the unrepeated mega arete of Jocation. It doesn't appear that the actual Lost Pillar itself got an ascent until 2003, when Tony Williams, Nora Adam and Josh Dodson did a whole bunch of easy routes up it. These ascents were kept remarkably under lock and key until Neil Monteith wandered in five years later with new route fever on his brain, swung across to the summit and discovered ring bolts! He quickly dispatched several multi-pitch routes on the pillar itself and the walls surrounding it with Jesse Lomas (before he quite climbing shortly after). Since the boom years of 2008/2009 this cliff has returned to forgotten status.

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Simon Carter

日期: 2019

国际书号: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

作者: Simon Carter

日期: 2019

国际书号: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

附近的住宿 more 隐藏

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