条目 in Mr Wall

Environmental Issue: Please do not leave quickdraws on routes.

The walk in to Mr Wall takes 12 minutes if you're psyched, or 15-20 if you care about your knees.

In the past, for convenience, it has been a common practise for climbers to leave quick draws on routes for extended periods of time. Unfortunately Diamond Falls is often buffeted by very strong winds and as a result this practice has led to significant rock scarring on several popular routes. Climbers are therefore urged to no longer continue this practise.

Short, steep and good. In addition to power you will need loads of body tension to thug your way up this little baby. The first half is one of the better warmups for Mr Wall.

The extension to Mr Wendle. From the anchors of Mr Wendle traverse right along the lip followed by a killer rock over move that may or may not be a heart breaker. Now continue up the wall and finish at the anchors of Impossible Princess.

If the long routes are a little too intimidating this dynamic classic is for you. Fun climbing and jumping between some good holds.

Dont be scared of jumping!

No under dogs here. Shares a similar style to its neighbour Rhythm & Stealth. A lovely start up Impossible Princess leads directly into the wall above, past the Rhythm Method anchors and trending rightward and becoming rather tricky. Finishes on the same anchors as Rhythm & Stealth.

Unfortunately a hold has come off so the original sequence needs to be modified. The original grade is still valid. You just need to start the climb with your hands the right way around, having done that you should be able to unravel yourself along the traverse and set yourself up for the crux.

Start as for Rhythm Method but follow the right hand line of rings up the wall after 4m. Rhythm And Stealth is a rad boulder problem on top of another boulder problem with chunky moves and fingery holds. Quite a nice solid number if the weather is not so good but jugs in the cold.

Independent line starting a few metres right of Rhythm Method.

Variation to Mr Pink.

Boulderyness to top of cliff, anchors over lip up high and left past the "lonely virgin" finger lock.

Start: double dyno off cool slopes on boulder wall.

Tucker Time is sooooo rad. A technical boulder problem on the face down low leads to a massive rest you can bury bodies in, then truckin' on upward is another little punch followed by the crux of Super Duper Goo and finish with the best roof climbing known to man. Skip the last two bolts in the roof, get a little slack and take the cleanest 20m fall you've ever had.

Tucker Time.

Superb technical and powerful climbing the whole way, requiring much more fitness than most Blue Mtns routes. The pumpy runout finish just adds to what is a truly memorable route.

The pumper extension to Mr Magoo through the roof, the holds are good but the pump is mega.

Great climbing getting continually harder as you go. Start as for Mr Magoo but after the sixth bolt head left crossing Tucker Time and continue left and over the left side of the roof.

Tuckered Out is probably the best route on the wall, grade wise, climbing wise and fun wise. It has so much more climbing than most of the other routes. Climb Super Duper Goo but finish up the roof of Tucker Time.

Start as for Mr Meaner for 3 bolts then move a bit L. Sustained crimping for about 10m of independent climbing, eventually joining the top flake of Mr Magoo. Continue into Super Goo to the top of the cliff.

A good, less steep offering. A hard start that can be done many ways sets you up for a good rest followed by great consistent climbing. A big crux move guards the anchor jugs and easier climbing. Conservation is the name of the game on this one. Soft, and a small number of (mostly tall) climbers take 29, but for now there is still a clear consensus that it's 30.

One of the classic test piece 26's in the mountains that keeps you working from start to finish.

Start as for Super Weak to the horizontal break then thin moves to decent rest, big moves on big holds to finish. A touch easier than the original but you still have to do its crux traverse.

The continuation of Mr Weak. Trend right 2 bolts before the end of Mr Weak Via a couple of extra bolts punch the roof and finish at the obvious horn feature at the top of the cliff. Shares the anchor of Mister Glücklich.

A slight variation to Zac's original vision for the line. Start as for "Mister Gluecklick for the first 3 bolts then straight up the flake and finish up "Theda Bara". Enjoy.

An enjoyable outing.

Very sequency and originally graded 33 with consideration to modern climbing strengths and a loss of old school techniques. However it seems the modern climbers' old school techniques were underestimated. As a result most ascentionists consider the route to be about 30, with a few different sequences possible. As more people tick the route, the consensus grade will average out.

Was for four years the hardest route in the country. A classic Miller route, involving a fine balance of power and precision.

The greatness of life is impossible to realise before you cast your eyes upon this, the route of all routes. At the time of completion it was the hardest route in the country and the hardest climbed by an Australian. Up Fantastic Mr Fox and without dangling about on the rest, bust up and into a thin crux until you reach Grey Area's rest, shake out here then finish up Grey Area and climb to the top of the cliff.

Ever imagined what the best route in the cosmos would be like?...wonder no longer and get yourself down to DF today! The most technical, fingery, tensiony, positiony, brain flaking hard route around. There is no route better.

To avoid entirely stealing/climbing what was Ben's project (FMF), a variant was done in which all of the business of Ben's project is climbed. Hence the name.

A crag classic. Originally bolted and chipped by Kim Carrigan, this was the first route after Giles' Hairline 2000 to be climbed. The climbing on this landmark route is typical of the Blue Mountains. (Chipping is by no means a theme of the crag and is actually limited to this route. This route gives no justification for further manufacturing here or anywhere else in the Blue Mountains.)

Garth

Bypasses the top crux of Mr Universe by traversing right into Mr Carpet Burn and then climbs back across the jugs at the top of MCB to the chains of MU. Some have climbed this thinking they were doing MU but in fact missed the crux of MU. Still a fun outing nonetheless.

Stu Rhys

Packs a punch for the grade and the length. Start as for Mr Carpet Burn but at the mid height crimp rail traverse left and finish up Fantastic Mr Fox. Be sure to climb straight up from the last bolt via the poor right hand three finger pocket (which has crumbled away a bit which probably changes things) and the left hand door knob (not to give you beta ) - this is the crux of Mr Universe. People have been known to circumvent this crux by going right into Mr Carpet Burn at the last bolt and to traverse back on the jugs, thus completing said circumvention - this is the "28" (ha ha) version called Mr Puniverse (see above).

Australia's first 35 (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana.

Ascents

• Alex Megos - 18 August 2013
• Wiz Fineron - 14 May 2019
• Ben Cossey

The first climb at DF, and widely considered to be one of the absolute best routes at any grade in the whole Blue Mountains. Giles sure knows how to pick them.

A 2m variant which usefully avoids some crumbled sandy holds on the original. Most people do Hairline 2000 this way.

People complain about link-ups, but if it's fun it's fun and this one's great. Up Hairline 2000 to the rest then right into the crux of Mr Tickle .... delishious.

A great line, fun moves and quite sustained.

Supposed to be the easier variant to Mr Tickle, some people lacking adequate forearm fitness actually find it to be harder. Start as for Mr Tickle but traverse left and finish up Hairline.

Often overlooked, but a fun climb in a nice position, with some interesting bouldery moves to a sting in the tail. Don't be put off by the obvious broken holds, it still goes. The anchor is now abysmal, for anyone looking for some rebolting. It’s also possible to start up Dogbite at the same grade to avoid clogging up the start of Hairline.

Bouldery and gymnastic with an engaging thought provoking finish. Needs a very alert belayer on the start moves as the too-low 1st bolt barely keeps you off the deck if the start holds are wet and you spooge off the (otherwise easy) move.

"The Ticklish Dog". At times a link-up is better than both halves and this recent addition proves this. An absolute classic. Climb Dogbite to the bottom of the slab then go left via a fantastic boulder problem to the marginal rest on Mr Tickle, squeeze this for all it's worth then to the top of this route.

The last route on main wall. Starts 1m R of Dogbite then keeps drifting R around onto the next face.

The next climbs are around the corner from Hairline 2000

If Super Weak is too busy/sunny/windy, head around the corner to this less travelled sport adventure. A bouldery start leads to some interesting easier climbing and time for quiet reflection. Start as for Some Kind of Bliss and go left at the 2nd or 3rd bolt.

One of the best warmups here. Also good for end of day mileage, being in shade later than all other routes. Climb Slinky Dog for 4 bolts then move left into You Did it Again just above it’s crux (clip YDiA’s 4th bolt from above, then backclean SD's 4th bolt) and follow YDiA to the top. Maybe 24 if you’ve got the Bliss start wired.

Start up Woody then left onto the ledge, craft a way through the next bulge then easier climbing above. Not in 2015 guide? Treat the grade with suspicion.

A short but very hard number though the bulge before the bliss traverse. Pretty much V9+ on a rope. Unrepeated??

Another early classic. Enjoy. A few long draws will be handy.

A nice long excursion, some say easier than 'Some Kind of Bliss', some say harder. Great rock and position all the same.

Start: Start as for 'Some Kind of Bliss', go right after the 1st bulge.

A couple of bolts up high need replacing.

Traverse past SKOB for another 2 bolts then bust straight up via a hard pocket boulder, crossing Light Years and up to a chain at the top of the cliff.

Classic jugging! Sustained climbing following a great line on great rock for 40 meters!

Start: As for SKOB but keep traversing far right and up to a massive horn. Continue right for one bolt then make your way up through 3 rooflets, taking the right line of bolts. Traverse right under the final roof and finish topped out above Saturation Point.

From the horn on To Infinity And Beyond push straight up into a hard boulder to join Light Years.. Follow this till the second last bolt then traverse right back onto TIAB and finish out right.

Start: As for 'Some Kind of Bliss', then traverse a loooooong way before weaving up the wall above. A mission.