First new aid route on this cliff in decades. Tricky aid on variable rock. Maybe a tad dangerous. Be careful! Further pitches could be 'fun' also.
Start: Start of the ridge in middle of main wall at thin seam.
25m (- M7) Tricky nailing up thin arcing seam and one decent dyna, past bad belay (don't stop, don't collect $200), left to hook moves and up to good thin clay band. Piton and ?bolt? belay. Wide range of pitons (rurps to angles) etc needed. And some small wires/rps or offsets.
. Project - continuation to reach Collossus ledge belay.
-m (- M6) Easily up corner / crack system from main belay on Collossus - past traverse line and up to second rooflet. Pop out onto face on small pinsand up via medium pecker past loose cracks/blocks to good pin- high point.
'Open Project'. Continue to top - probably need long rope.
Removed from 2015 BM guide because Simone Cartier got her knickers in a knot ...
