线路 in Dogface

Start: Left of black streak and spray waterfall on left of wall.

Thin cracks leading to corner, roof and up ..

Start: Center of wall at right corner right of black streak.

For a bit of an idea see the 2007 Calendar

Strong line up the massive leaning corner of choss... Start at obvious right hand corner. Up corner through roofs.

Goes free at 24 by traversing 20m left at top ledge.

Climbs full length of left cliff, starting down in the scree...

4 pitchs of the lower wall get you to the Main halfway ledge and another 3 pitches on left wall get you to the top.

Big corner around the arete from Landslide Chimney.

Start: Downhill left from Landslide Chimney.

Left and up into corner. Up corner to overlap, thru short steepness and thrutch to glory.

Originally 18 M4 by Ewbank

Start: At the bottom of the huge corner/chimney.

Start: Actuall starts way down the bottom right of the 'Left Wall'

18M6 or free at 26 R.

Start: Main corner/crack system on left side wall. Good rock and climbing down low, becoming more serious and difficult towards the top.

Birdbeaks/Peckers may be advisable as increasingly the original fixed pitons are breaking…

Frothy Thomson working Titan

First new aid route on this cliff in decades. Tricky aid on variable rock. Maybe a tad dangerous. Be careful! Further pitches could be 'fun' also.

Start: Start of the ridge in middle of main wall at thin seam.

1. 25m (- M7) Tricky nailing up thin arcing seam and one decent dyna, past bad belay (don't stop, don't collect $200), left to hook moves and up to good thin clay band. Piton and ?bolt? belay. Wide range of pitons (rurps to angles) etc needed. And some small wires/rps or offsets. . Project - continuation to reach Collossus ledge belay.

2. -m (- M6) Easily up corner / crack system from main belay on Collossus - past traverse line and up to second rooflet. Pop out onto face on small pinsand up via medium pecker past loose cracks/blocks to good pin- high point. 'Open Project'. Continue to top - probably need long rope.

Removed from 2015 BM guide because Simone Cartier got her knickers in a knot ...

Up slanting crack for 50m. Up to 10m pin traverse along clay band then up to roof below lookout. Through roof and up to lookout. If your into aid you cant get lost.

Start: Slanting crack in the middle of 'Main Wall'.

1. -m Start between pillars, up groove and into the crack. Belay at obvious foot ledge. (23 or M3)

2. -m Long slanting crack, with cruxy finish, to alcove ledge. (26 or M5)

3. -m Up short corner to reposition belay to eyrie ledge above. (- 18 or M2)

4. -m Up corner to traverse clay band on stacked pins then up via bolt and piton to ledge. Original bivy on right. Free variant avoids pin traverse by continuing up corner to top then exposed traverse to gain belay ledge. (- M6)

5. -m Left past 2 bolts to crux getting into left facing corner/ramp. Easily up it to top then pull onto shaley ledge (25?- M6)

6. -m Left onto large block then up through steepness, turn the lip and up final slab with lots of poor bolts.(24?- M5)

The original bolt route on the wall - c. 1965, chopped 1967, reclimbed 2005.

Take lot's of peckers and various hooks, leave them in the hope they'll catch you if you fall - then just don't fall! I actually had my bivvy almost below me for psych support

Start: Few metres left of Gigantors start at some barely noticeable chopped bolts beneath the line of even less noticeable chopped bolts.

Pecker Extension Project underway.

Removed from 2015 BM guide because Simone Cartier got her knickers in a knot ...

The obvious cliff-splitter. "The most direct and outstanding line on the face" -John Ewbank.

Trade aid route - goes clean ie no pins, some hooking, occasional free moves... Also goes completely free.

Fixed belay anchors in reasonable condition for old carrots, consider backing up with extra gear/rap line etc if you’re so inclined.

P1 (~ 25meters) - Either direct or traverse in from left to reach the base of the crack. Mixed aid (~C1/C2) and free. Bolted belay.

P2 (~28 meters) - Standard aid, hooking (or free moves) up to C2. Multiple bolt belay station. People have bivied here for fun. Can be linked with P3 but long rope recommended

P3 (~28 meters-depending on belay position) - Few aid moves to aid crux (C2+), then up crack finishing on carrot-ladder to ledge, and final free move to top. Carrot belay on a boulder ~15m back or just belay off a few of the trees.

Exit up gully track to Landslide Lookout.

Watch this Video with Zac Vertrees about the route.

The all free version of Gigantor. Listed separately to the aid version, as aiding Gigantor is still quite popular.

Atmospheric and extremely engaging! A true sustained cliff-splitter.

As a free route, it has a bit of everything - Jamming, armbars, pinkys, pockets and the occasional edge. Some loose rock and the occasional runout. Belays are all ok -provided you equalise everything and make use of any natural pro you can find.

Don't even think of rebolting this one!!

Traverse right at the bolt ladder near the top, and follow the line of least resistance.

Watch this Video with Zac Vertrees about the route.

Rap in and climb out on worrisome metal in worrisome rock with worrisome air. Absolutely awesome - come on, step up . .

'Excellent' engaging rope solo . .

Start: Head south fro, lookout down track in gully to chain on block several metres from cliff edge. Rap in past lots of fixed stuff to belay in middle of wall.

Frothy Thomson attempting to Onsight Change Planets

“Contains sustained, free and mechanical climbing of an awkward nature. Contains an awkward pendulum and a manky start to the first pitch” J. Ewbank.

Up through shockingly lose shale to the base of the wall proper, and up thin crack to hanging belay. Switch gears and arc up and right on bolts, hooks and drilled holes to tatters of primitive lower-off and pendulum to the (now dead) tree belay at base of corner on right side of wall. Up corner to top.

Perhaps dry tooling would be better . . .

Wide crack cruxy start near the coffin cave gets you to a good cave ledge. Pop up onto the main face and up and around arete. Up grey slab above.

Similar to 'Gorgon' in grade and nature. Again most of the climbing is free.

Start: 'Trident' cracks on left wall of 'Leviathan' corner

\' predominantly mechanical route taking a thin crack to its natural conclusion\' J. Ewbank

Start: The crack on the right corner of the corner. Start marked.

1. -m (14 M5) Free and aid on friable rock up to belay on shale ledge.

2. 30m (14 M5) Free to base of corner then on aid to roof. Around the roof and a few free moves to bolt anchor.

3. 50m (-) P 3 & 4. Aid then free to ledge and bolt, right along ledge and follow easiest route to the top.

A classic katoomba cliffs trad route with great position and climbing. Most of the rock on this route is of descent quality with the exception of the shale band on pitch 3. Good gear (doubles BD 0.3 - 3, 1 x 4, Wires and Hexes), and only one move at grade 22 (most of the climbing is in the 19-20 range) make this a good introduction to Dogface free-climbing.

Access via Furber steps (or Golden Staircase) to landslide. Find Gorgon wall (next wall right of the landslide main wall, with huge stepped roof half-way up) then bush-bash up loose scree and vegetation until you are below Gorgon Wall.

1. Start up clean, wide crack with a small roof 6m up. Up crack with a hard start and tricky moves past the roof, then pleasantly up the corner crack to the ledge. 2RB belay.

2. Walk 20m right along the ledge, and belay off 2 glue-in carrots (back up with bomber wire if necessary).

3. Up flake (being careful on bad rock) to shale band. Carefully mantle to old bash-in carrot, then crux on bad rock, moving right to gain corner-crack and better rock. Continue up corner to semi-hanging belay 5m below roof. Okay gear can be found in the shale band on this pitch.

4. Stem corner to roof (bomber wire), then traverse right under roof (clip what pitons you can reach (3 possible), and supplement with gear after the 2nd piton). Continue under roof around prow for 2-3m, then up and back left to large belay ledge directly above the previous belay.

5. Delicately Up loose flakes to cramped belay in large horizontal slot.

6. Strenuously off the belay on dubious rock past bolt and gear to an awkward stance. Crux past 2 old carrots, then easily and pleasantly to the top of the cliff. Belay off bollards 8m back from cliff edge.

To escape, head up the hill to the cliffline. Traverse right under the cliffline to cliff edge at gully. Scramble up carefully, then back left under cliffline for 100m until you reach a short gully. Scramble up this, and continue up the hill to the main walking track. Head left on the track back to Landslide lookout, and then up the track to the road.

Apparently unrepeatable ?? But has been attempted and seen rescuing required ..? Certainly sounds interesting ... Up main Citadel corner then left .

The line up the huge corner. Some loose rock. Bolt belays.

Start: Solo up the landslide over steep loose rubble and blocks till you reach the start of the rock and you should be at a crack that you can use for your first belay. If you aren't then head left or right till you are, or keep going up . . Belay from here.